Anyone here that can help me A.S.A.P. choose a good van?
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I'm thinking you've been advised to stay away from the '97-'07 Fords and I would agree. I have owned several older Dodges and now drive a '91 that has been pretty reliable but somewhere in the mid-90s there seemed to be a drop in quality. But that's just what I know from forums.XFILE36 said:
CautionToTheWind
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GMC's are just rebadged Chevy's.
CautionToTheWind
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By the way, your message box is full.
CautionToTheWind
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I found something for you...You can delete some PMs out otherwise I can't communicate.
XFILE36
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CautionToTheWind said:
Sorry, I was glued to the computer and phone all day yesterday, and didn't even eat until 11 PM. I keep deleting messages, but it keeps filling back up. I'm at 98% today. I'm working on getting that down. :exclamation:
Almost There
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After you've deleted the PMs in the inbox AND the sent file you also have to go in to trash and delete them there too.
The trash, just like at home, doesn't get taken out by some fairy godmother.....
The trash, just like at home, doesn't get taken out by some fairy godmother.....
XFILE36
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Almost There said:After you've deleted the PMs in the inbox AND the sent file you also have to go in to trash and delete them there too.
The trash, just like at home, doesn't get taken out by some fairy godmother.....
I'll have you know that my trash is empty every day. It's the other folders i need to read. user 37446
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Disclaimer- I dont have a van
However I've had several Fords, 1972, 1978, 1997. Nothing in the spitting spark plug years though. I'm kinda concerned with you crossing off all Fords for those years (98 to early 08).
First, there's really just the plug issue and its not every van. Second, many owners have already gotten the plugs done. Third, plugs last (on average) 60-100K miles so its not an every year experience. Fourth, so you discount the price for the cost of a tuneup at a shop, so what?
There are so many of those vans on the road and you could easily talk to the commercial owners (contractors mostly) about their experiences with them. Or talk to class C rv drivers, most of which are on Ford chassis...
I have never particularly liked Dodges but won't turn one down when its time to buy as long as the maintenance has been done. Most every affordable class B is a Dodge (prior to 2003). Many of the mid-top conversion vans I see on CL are Dodges. It turns out that in my price range, I'll more likely find a Dodge or a Ford available, by a long shot. While my preferred drivetrain is a Chevrolet/GMC from 2003 up (redesign of brakes), I can't seem to find one very often. Part of that is the fleets bought on price and Ford or Dodge priced cheaper.
So keep your mind open. PM forum members who have Dodges or Fords. Or just be very picky on having maintenance records available, whatever the van.
However I've had several Fords, 1972, 1978, 1997. Nothing in the spitting spark plug years though. I'm kinda concerned with you crossing off all Fords for those years (98 to early 08).
First, there's really just the plug issue and its not every van. Second, many owners have already gotten the plugs done. Third, plugs last (on average) 60-100K miles so its not an every year experience. Fourth, so you discount the price for the cost of a tuneup at a shop, so what?
There are so many of those vans on the road and you could easily talk to the commercial owners (contractors mostly) about their experiences with them. Or talk to class C rv drivers, most of which are on Ford chassis...
I have never particularly liked Dodges but won't turn one down when its time to buy as long as the maintenance has been done. Most every affordable class B is a Dodge (prior to 2003). Many of the mid-top conversion vans I see on CL are Dodges. It turns out that in my price range, I'll more likely find a Dodge or a Ford available, by a long shot. While my preferred drivetrain is a Chevrolet/GMC from 2003 up (redesign of brakes), I can't seem to find one very often. Part of that is the fleets bought on price and Ford or Dodge priced cheaper.
So keep your mind open. PM forum members who have Dodges or Fords. Or just be very picky on having maintenance records available, whatever the van.
You're right about the Fords but when shopping for any used van it pays to hedge your bets. I had the plug problem, along with the plastic intake problem on a Crown Vic so I'm probably a little more biased than some. I don't like aluminum heads,period. A few years ago I had overheating problems with the Dodge and I'm pretty sure that if it had alum. heads it would be toast today. But then I do know that there are millions of workhorse vans out there that get thrashed and are still OK. Really, if you spend time on brand specific forums, you'll find that they all have their problems.
Actually, with my budget I can now afford an '09 up E250 or newer Express van and I'm considering pulling the trigger. But with taxes, depreciation,interest,higher tag cost,etc. I'm wondering if in the long run I wouldn't be better off keeping the old Dodge.
Actually, with my budget I can now afford an '09 up E250 or newer Express van and I'm considering pulling the trigger. But with taxes, depreciation,interest,higher tag cost,etc. I'm wondering if in the long run I wouldn't be better off keeping the old Dodge.
user 37446
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Good points you bring up. All makes have their issues, "forewarned is forearmed" is the saying...
I'm no GM fanboy, just prefer the suspension/front end of GM vs twin I beams. I've had my share of 1999, 2000 and 2005 GM car and minivan issues with their 3800cc V6 intake manifold gaskets that the lovely extended life Dexcool coolant ruins. Yep, and the 97-02 GM V8 vans have intake problems too. All in all, once my Buicks all got the manifold gaskets replaced, they were fine and someone benefited from my maintenance dollars...
One interesting thing is that in 2008, Ford upgraded the suspensions (load carrying GVWR) significantly, in an effort to remove the E150 from CAFE standards. It went up to E250 payloads, so unless you specifically want a 250, a 150 will suffice payload wise. I know there are other differences that make a 250 better, just pointing it out. GM didnt change theirs until they completely dropped the 1500 van in about 2014.
I'm no GM fanboy, just prefer the suspension/front end of GM vs twin I beams. I've had my share of 1999, 2000 and 2005 GM car and minivan issues with their 3800cc V6 intake manifold gaskets that the lovely extended life Dexcool coolant ruins. Yep, and the 97-02 GM V8 vans have intake problems too. All in all, once my Buicks all got the manifold gaskets replaced, they were fine and someone benefited from my maintenance dollars...
One interesting thing is that in 2008, Ford upgraded the suspensions (load carrying GVWR) significantly, in an effort to remove the E150 from CAFE standards. It went up to E250 payloads, so unless you specifically want a 250, a 150 will suffice payload wise. I know there are other differences that make a 250 better, just pointing it out. GM didnt change theirs until they completely dropped the 1500 van in about 2014.
As far as mileage ranges, a fleet van (cargo or passenger) with 100,000 miles from the southwest US with good maintenance history is a much better choice sometimes than a consumer owned van from the northeast with 50,000 miles...
It depends on how it was used and maintained.
I bought a nice clean Ford cargo van, fleet owned, 5 years old, that was based in Albuquerque and had 105,000 miles of nearly all highway miles, plus fleet maintenance records from all over the southern US...its been trouble free.
It wasn't the cheapest lowest mileage van around, but lack of any rust underneath, and good maintenance, meant it was worth it for me.
The underside still looks almost new...no rust!
It depends on how it was used and maintained.
I bought a nice clean Ford cargo van, fleet owned, 5 years old, that was based in Albuquerque and had 105,000 miles of nearly all highway miles, plus fleet maintenance records from all over the southern US...its been trouble free.
It wasn't the cheapest lowest mileage van around, but lack of any rust underneath, and good maintenance, meant it was worth it for me.
The underside still looks almost new...no rust!
This world isn said:
The twin I-beam front is a mix of good and bad.
The handling is not as good as a car, or pickup, with double wishbones or A-arms... but it is strong, heavy, and overbuilt. I think my Ford van with the twin traction beams is rated at 5000 pounds on the front alone.
That's about twice what it normally carries.
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OK, so I completely stress myself out yesterday and didn't eat all day, just looking for a van. When I do things like that (sitting on my butt), I can't get rid of my MUCH stuff that I am tripping over. Today I am focusing on clearing out some closets, etc...making a trail to walk, LOL! I may check the forum here and there, but can't be sitting here all day...I WANT OUT! I really appreciate all the vans people are sending me.
So, I was previously told (by an ex-board member) I can't have a camper in my condo. It turns out, I just read my CCR's and it doesn't say I can't, and confirmed it with an HOA Board member today. So, as for what I want/need I still want stealth, but may trade that off if I find a really nice deal. I will be traveling and haven't a clue where I'll be parking, so I need to keep that in mind. The best thing I can think of now, is the largest van I can find, hightop, or if it's a good deal I will add one on for $3,000. My total budget for a van with hightop is about $7,200 at the moment. I also want 100,000 or less, preferably less, from the southwest of the country to avoid rust problems. I don't know what make/model after reading all your posts. I will look at them more thoroughly later and ponder what everyone's told me. I want a Chevy as priority, but don't know if I will choose something else. One thing I know for sure is, I can't buy a Class A or C now. I may have to fly somewhere, but I really shouldn't go too far because I have a cat that needs meds. and will have to drive back to L.A. He's used to getting meds every 12-24 hours.
So, I was previously told (by an ex-board member) I can't have a camper in my condo. It turns out, I just read my CCR's and it doesn't say I can't, and confirmed it with an HOA Board member today. So, as for what I want/need I still want stealth, but may trade that off if I find a really nice deal. I will be traveling and haven't a clue where I'll be parking, so I need to keep that in mind. The best thing I can think of now, is the largest van I can find, hightop, or if it's a good deal I will add one on for $3,000. My total budget for a van with hightop is about $7,200 at the moment. I also want 100,000 or less, preferably less, from the southwest of the country to avoid rust problems. I don't know what make/model after reading all your posts. I will look at them more thoroughly later and ponder what everyone's told me. I want a Chevy as priority, but don't know if I will choose something else. One thing I know for sure is, I can't buy a Class A or C now. I may have to fly somewhere, but I really shouldn't go too far because I have a cat that needs meds. and will have to drive back to L.A. He's used to getting meds every 12-24 hours.
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Yep, the knock on the twin I beam mostly came from my years of reading Class C rv forums where the tendency to "bump steer" and wander was an oft noted concern, and repairs often were in the 2-3K range in order to alleviate the problems. With a simple cargo van it likely isn't an issue.
From the RV.net class C forum searched for "wandering"
Begin quote:
Posted: 05/18/17 02:54pm Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
I drove my new rig home today, it was a 80 miles trip back home, I noticed that it felt like the front of the truck was wandering or it felt loose has anyone felt that in there class c and if so could you tell me how you fixed it.
j-d
Sunny Florida USA
Posted: 05/18/17 03:07pm Link
There are dozens of threads about this. There's good discussion in a recent thread with topic "swaybars" and another about being pushed around by trucks.
What Chassis is it on? Particularly if your chassis is Ford E350 or E450, the "80" you mentioned may be part of your answer.
Especially, again, with Ford, VERY important to inflate front tires to what a Weight-to-Pressure Chart calls for based on ACTUAL SCALE Weights. Load your RV up as you would for a trip, people and all. Get Thee to a Truckery (Truck Stop/Travel Cener) and weigh it on their CAT Scale. If you tow something, pull that up onto the scales too. People on board for the weighing!
Then go to the Air Station and adjust your tire pressures. Your sidewalls are going to be marked "80 PSI MAX" and they're pretty much fitted to your chassis with no excess capacity. So your Chassis label will also say "80" but that only applies to max rated axle loadings!
If somebody aired all six to 80, it's probably too much in front and your coach will wander, even if everything else is OK. Excess pressure in the rear tires...pretty much just makes it ride harder, but little effect on wandering.
Check all SIX tires. Look to see if there are flexible valve stems or extension tubes/adapters. You need Solid, One Piece Valves like These from BORG, also available at Camping World.
Posted: 05/18/17 03:34pm Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
Wandering E450
End of that quote
There's also the interior room debate, an RV specific forum quote is below.
From the RV.Net class C forums:
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Posted: 07/20/17 10:03pm
Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']IAMICHABOD wrote:
The real difference between the two is comfort and driveability that the Chevy Chassis has over the Ford.
I don't know about the Chevy because it has been a long time since I drove a Chevy Express, but there is really only one thing that bothers me about my Ford E350. The gas and brake pedal are skewed to the left so much that I have to sit a bit skewed to align my right foot to them. I studied my seat and it is mounted properly in the right place. It's the pedals being too far left because the engine housing is so big. They are not in proper position to the steering wheel either. I have never read any comments about it. Am I the only one who finds that uncomfortable? I get used to it after the first few days of every trip. But every time I get in after a few weeks, I feel it all over again.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']I found that one built on a Chevy Chassis as Ron noted, was so much better than the ones built on a Ford Chassis.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Here is what I found.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Length The Chevy is 9 inches longer.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']But the real story is the interior.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The area from the Dog House to the kick panel,the floor board where your feet are.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The Chevy is 18 inches wide and mostly flat.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The Ford is 15 inches wide but has a 2 inch rise that is 5 inches wide leaving only 10 inches of flat floor. [/font][font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']With the seat pushed back as far as it goes on both the Ford And Chevy. Both having Stock Factory seats I [/font][font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']found:[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Foot well depth to front of seat. Chevy 31 inches, Ford 27 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Seat back to steering wheel. Chevy 26 inches, Ford 23 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Front of seat to Dash. Chevy 29 inches, Ford 23 inches, 6" More leg room![/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Dog House width,measured at dash Chevy 15 inches, Ford 23 inches, 4 inches less knee room for passenger and driver.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Dog House depth into cab from dash Chevy 8 inches, Ford 11 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']For long time driving comfort the Chevy has a better cockpit,smoother ride and is quieter. "[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']End of quote[/font]
From the RV.net class C forum searched for "wandering"
Begin quote:
Posted: 05/18/17 02:54pm Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
I drove my new rig home today, it was a 80 miles trip back home, I noticed that it felt like the front of the truck was wandering or it felt loose has anyone felt that in there class c and if so could you tell me how you fixed it.
j-d
Sunny Florida USA
Posted: 05/18/17 03:07pm Link
There are dozens of threads about this. There's good discussion in a recent thread with topic "swaybars" and another about being pushed around by trucks.
What Chassis is it on? Particularly if your chassis is Ford E350 or E450, the "80" you mentioned may be part of your answer.
Especially, again, with Ford, VERY important to inflate front tires to what a Weight-to-Pressure Chart calls for based on ACTUAL SCALE Weights. Load your RV up as you would for a trip, people and all. Get Thee to a Truckery (Truck Stop/Travel Cener) and weigh it on their CAT Scale. If you tow something, pull that up onto the scales too. People on board for the weighing!
Then go to the Air Station and adjust your tire pressures. Your sidewalls are going to be marked "80 PSI MAX" and they're pretty much fitted to your chassis with no excess capacity. So your Chassis label will also say "80" but that only applies to max rated axle loadings!
If somebody aired all six to 80, it's probably too much in front and your coach will wander, even if everything else is OK. Excess pressure in the rear tires...pretty much just makes it ride harder, but little effect on wandering.
Check all SIX tires. Look to see if there are flexible valve stems or extension tubes/adapters. You need Solid, One Piece Valves like These from BORG, also available at Camping World.
Posted: 05/18/17 03:34pm Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
Wandering E450
End of that quote
There's also the interior room debate, an RV specific forum quote is below.
From the RV.Net class C forums:
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Posted: 07/20/17 10:03pm
Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']IAMICHABOD wrote:
The real difference between the two is comfort and driveability that the Chevy Chassis has over the Ford.
I don't know about the Chevy because it has been a long time since I drove a Chevy Express, but there is really only one thing that bothers me about my Ford E350. The gas and brake pedal are skewed to the left so much that I have to sit a bit skewed to align my right foot to them. I studied my seat and it is mounted properly in the right place. It's the pedals being too far left because the engine housing is so big. They are not in proper position to the steering wheel either. I have never read any comments about it. Am I the only one who finds that uncomfortable? I get used to it after the first few days of every trip. But every time I get in after a few weeks, I feel it all over again.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']I found that one built on a Chevy Chassis as Ron noted, was so much better than the ones built on a Ford Chassis.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Here is what I found.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Length The Chevy is 9 inches longer.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']But the real story is the interior.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The area from the Dog House to the kick panel,the floor board where your feet are.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The Chevy is 18 inches wide and mostly flat.[/font] [font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']The Ford is 15 inches wide but has a 2 inch rise that is 5 inches wide leaving only 10 inches of flat floor. [/font][font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']With the seat pushed back as far as it goes on both the Ford And Chevy. Both having Stock Factory seats I [/font][font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']found:[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Foot well depth to front of seat. Chevy 31 inches, Ford 27 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Seat back to steering wheel. Chevy 26 inches, Ford 23 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Front of seat to Dash. Chevy 29 inches, Ford 23 inches, 6" More leg room![/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Dog House width,measured at dash Chevy 15 inches, Ford 23 inches, 4 inches less knee room for passenger and driver.[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']Dog House depth into cab from dash Chevy 8 inches, Ford 11 inches[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']For long time driving comfort the Chevy has a better cockpit,smoother ride and is quieter. "[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, 'sans serif']End of quote[/font]
Yeah a cargo van and an rv van can be two different animals.
Ford and the aftermarket addressed some of these issues with new stabilizer bars, steering dampers, new caster settings, and upgraded suspension parts.
Some of this stuff was standard, or supposed to be, for RV and ambulance versions of the Ford cab-n-chassis units.
As far as interior room, its a toss up. Yes it its a bit tight, but not uncomfortable, and I'm about 6 feet and 220 pounds.
I find it comfortable, and cozy, once I'm in there. I cant remember, but I think the newer Chevy vans lack the grab handle on the A-pillar, someone correct me if I'm wrong. That grab handle and an exterior step, make it easy for me to get in and out of my van.
Hey if you prefer a van thats shaped like a toaster and don't mind peeling paint on the hood, by all means, buy a Chevy!
Ford and the aftermarket addressed some of these issues with new stabilizer bars, steering dampers, new caster settings, and upgraded suspension parts.
Some of this stuff was standard, or supposed to be, for RV and ambulance versions of the Ford cab-n-chassis units.
As far as interior room, its a toss up. Yes it its a bit tight, but not uncomfortable, and I'm about 6 feet and 220 pounds.
I find it comfortable, and cozy, once I'm in there. I cant remember, but I think the newer Chevy vans lack the grab handle on the A-pillar, someone correct me if I'm wrong. That grab handle and an exterior step, make it easy for me to get in and out of my van.
Hey if you prefer a van thats shaped like a toaster and don't mind peeling paint on the hood, by all means, buy a Chevy!
user 37446
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Good points on GM paint (how could they have let that go on and on...) and the wall curves. Bob Wells really likes by the newer GM, however for low entry cost I'd personally look for an early 2000's E350 extended passenger. There's 4 for sale within 2 miles of me right now, couple at dealers and 2 by owner. Course I'm currently in Canada so that doesnt help the OP, but she should be able to CL a SW city like Las Vegas or Phoenix, even Albuquerque and find lots.
The only reason I suggest the passenger van is the ease of starting out, there's no real work to do other than removing the seats and belts. As long as she doesn't need maximum space she can leave the nice plastic trim and headliner/floor carpet all in. Makes for a quick conversion, toss in a cot, sleeping bag, some water/food/clothes in storage tubs, some sort of porta-potty and you are off! If she goes light on power usage, the quite large starter battery will suffice for awhile.
They are really the easiest things to quickly start in, and the room of an extended E350 is, well, large.
The only reason I suggest the passenger van is the ease of starting out, there's no real work to do other than removing the seats and belts. As long as she doesn't need maximum space she can leave the nice plastic trim and headliner/floor carpet all in. Makes for a quick conversion, toss in a cot, sleeping bag, some water/food/clothes in storage tubs, some sort of porta-potty and you are off! If she goes light on power usage, the quite large starter battery will suffice for awhile.
They are really the easiest things to quickly start in, and the room of an extended E350 is, well, large.
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