Question for 6 x 12 cargo dweller

[Queen]

Yup, that's it. Not bolted in, just removed each time and the hatch is sealed. I've seen loads of pics where people just brace them with wood. I'll have to ask the owner there if the ac can be used without bracing, but it seems to only be 2.5-3 inches of wall thickness so I'm not sure.

 

[DLTooley]

I've seen some of those but I have a different solution I think.

I mounted D-rings on the outside screwed into the frame, then I use carabiner type snaps or quicklinks to attach either mesh tarp or the sunshades I bought. I also use a couple of small turnbuckles to account for stretch and slight variations. I also have a plastic awning clamp to support the middle of the edge next to the trailer roof rain gutter. I also use a single lightweight piece of aluminum angle stock on the outside edge over the poles to keep that edge neat and not 'saggy'.

.

I looked into those $100 awnings in detail and there are a couple of gaps in the construction plans.

Here's an option I just ordered, $109-$169 in rational vehicle sizes:

https://www.amazon.com/Outsunny-Car-Awning-Portable-Retractable/dp/B071Y1921B/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8

Not installed yet, but build quality looks good.  The awning material is perhaps a tad light, but it appears replaceable.  I may also still get a 10x10.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Here's an option I just ordered, $109-$169 in rational vehicle sizes:

Let us know how it works out for you.

I just didnt want that huge chunk of hardware on the sides of the van or the trailer, and I know what years of parking in the sun does to those nylon(or whatever they are) covers. It ain't pretty.

They will certainly work for some people tho.

For my van and trailer, I bought (or had it made) material that has at least one side that is just under 8 feet, and on 2 of the 'tarps' they have a 6 foot side. This means that I can mix and match the material with whichever 'vehicle' I want to attach it to.

I have a triangular woven sunsail for use on the van, (only one pole needed) and two rectangular awnings, one is a translucent mesh, the other is a rainproof sunsail.

All three pack in a fairly small space, and the poles work on any of the choices.
Plus most of this will easily transition to my next rig.

My total investment in the entire setup is about $300...not bad really, for the flexibility I have. I think I could put together a single, nice one for about $100 that avoids the use of cheap plastic tarps.

 

[GypsySpirit]

Found this guy's conversion fascinating.  Way too technical for me, but there are some 15 or 16 videos on the process.   Most are less than 5 minutes long.  His bathroom is brilliant!  Enjoy!  

 

[blmkid]

I have several reply's. But would be too long and I would lose track of my thoughts and then probably wonder off into the woods. Will break them down in separate post.

First: My Diamond Cargo trailer is a 7' X 12'. Added 6" extra height, original was 6' 3". I wanted more head room. I debated on the 6' wide. But after looking at tnttt web site, lot's of the folks after having their 6' wide for a while, wished they went 7' wide, bingo, 7' was ordered. My truck is a 2004 Chevy Silverado with extra cab.  I am very comfortable towing it.

I insulated walls and ceiling. Sometime in next few weeks will install 1/4" luan for ceiling. I'm keeping the interior very basic. My trailer weight specs show 1,300 lbs. I'll only be adding about 500 lbs more. Probably not that much. Keeping it simple. That's why I do not have Trailer Brakes. I only use it a couple times (4-5) in late Fall/Winter time. 

So, if any questions on this post, just quote, and ask question. Next >>>>>

 

[blmkid]

#2.
5,000 btu window AC. Weight 40 lbs. I was going over different ideas and searching the web for an answer. But came up with a temp solution that still needs minor fine tuning.  Will be visiting my older brother in PCB, FL, in 2 weeks, but think the weather will be okay enough to just use 2 20" box fans.
Will use his s&b power to power my needs.

If I do need the ac, due to probably high humidity. I will do this.

Build a temporary wall at rear of CT, about 1 1/2' from the rear opening, I have barn doors. 
Use 4 screws to mount 2 x 4 to ceiling, just run the screws in enough to securely hold. Do same for floor. Then use 2" x 3"'s ,vertical. Just use screws to hold the 2 x 3 's in place. Now keep in mind, the AC will not be put in place until I'm parked in my brother's front yard. The ac will be stowed securely during transport. Will make a small wood frame for the AC (shown in my drawing), this will be kept in storage building until needed. I will later come up with a little roll about to roll the ac into place when stationary. I hope I'm making sense. Here's the drawing. LOL.


Will use 1" foam insulation panels to put inside of wall, temp secured.

 

[blmkid]

I bought the ramp door version, so I can haul a motorcycle...plus I made it where the ramp can be a small porch or deck when desired. The desk I built inside folds down so there is plenty of room for the bike.

My van has my bed and other stuff, so the trailer is mainly a toy hauler and mobile ham station.

You have got it going on, Tex. Nice set up. Plenty of storage. Bike transport. Sweet looking scoot. what kind of bike is it?

 

[blmkid]

 If I did the bed like yours MP, I could then haul my XT225 Yam in the trailer instead of in the van.

I was going to build a 'pony' wall about 1' inside from the barn doors.  I'd put a door with a window in the middle of that wall (but only on a 7' wide cargo). With the double doors closed, all that stuff would be hidden from view but still accessible.
aluminum loading ramp to load the bike. And a bed setup like you have MP. 
Thoughts?

"Pony wall" ? A temp wall?
I have a 7' wide, posted a new reply with my temp wall idea and temp 5000 btu ac install. With cartoon drawing.
The ramp? I would have 2 ramps for safety ( I have a straight axel, high off the ground). One for bike to ride up, one, to one side for planting my foot as in slowly going up the ramp, clutch slightly engaged, too heavy to push. But then, would have to add trailer brakes. That would be $500.00 at repair shop. Brake install too much for me, plus I want it done right, as in brakes working.

BTW. It's a 2015 Honda CRFL 250.

 

[highdesertranger]

I would do the brakes no matter what. there is no such thing as too much braking. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

Yes that heavy no brakes is asking for disaster someday.

Even if you're judgement proof if a kid's killed who needs that burden?

 

[blmkid]

I would do the brakes no matter what.  there is no such thing as too much braking.   highdesertranger

Yes that heavy no brakes is asking for disaster someday.

Even if you're judgement proof if a kid's killed who needs that burden?

Looked at e-trailer web site. Got the drum and brake kit figured out. Not that much $.
Brake assembly, self adjusting: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/etrailer/AKEBRK-35-SA.html[/SIZE]
Hub: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/etrailer/AKHD-545-35-K.html[/SIZE]
I already have the e-z grease cap on trailer
 Will have to talk to e-trailer about a electric controller and a junction box. Have a 4 way flat male connector on trailer, truck has a 7 pin female on it. Just have to pay someone to do that part. Maybe call e-traile tomorrow or.......

 

[user 423]

A temp wall?
I have a 7' wide, posted a new reply with my temp wall idea and temp 5000 btu ac install. With cartoon drawing.]The ramp? I would have 2 ramps for safety ( I have a straight axel, high off the ground). One for bike to ride up, one, to one side for planting my foot as in slowly going up the ramp, clutch slightly engaged, too heavy to push. But then, would have to add trailer brakes. That would be $500.00 at repair shop. Brake install too much for me, plus I want it done right, as in brakes working.[/size]

I meant an inner wall to hold the A/C and a 2' door with a jalousie window. The AC would be mounted up high, since colder air flows down. I'm not sure how sturdy the wall would need to be to keep it from vibrating too much but was thinking 2x2 for studs, T-111 siding on the outside and luan on the inside. I would add wood inserts between the roof supports before I did the ceiling so I'd have something to attach the wall to at the top.  3/4" foam + air space for insulation.

With only a 6' trailer, I'd probably just put in a window. I really want a door though because I'd be using a porta potti that would be back there near the door, sitting on a shower pan of some sort. This would make it easier to access for dumping time.

For the 270 lb. bike I'm thinking of either hauling it in the back of the van, or on a Versahaul, or maybe haul it on the front.

Here's a pic that I saw somewhere that got me thinking of doing it this way:

 

[John61CT]

> Maybe call e-trailer tomorrow or.......

Great outfit!

They have a "post a question online" feature if you register, their TS/CS reps are very responsive when you call, but the former approach gives better odds of a thorough answer.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Looked at e-trailer web site. Got the drum and brake kit figured out.

Does your trailer axle have the brake flange already welded on?

 

[tx2sturgis]

That intermediate wall is typically referred to as a bulkhead. Assuming it's bolted in very solidly to the frame, floor, and roof bows, it will add strength to the entire trailer.

 

[blmkid]

I would do the brakes no matter what.  there is no such thing as too much braking.   highdesertranger

Does your trailer axle have the brake flange already welded on?

That's a big 10-4.

 

[blmkid]

I meant an inner wall to hold the A/C and a 2' door with a jalousie window. The AC would be mounted up high, since colder air flows down. I'm not sure how sturdy the wall would need to be to keep it from vibrating too much but was thinking 2x2 for studs, T-111 siding on the outside and luan on the inside. I would add wood inserts between the roof supports before I did the ceiling so I'd have something to attach the wall to at the top.  3/4" foam + air space for insulation.

With only a 6' trailer, I'd probably just put in a window. I really want a door though because I'd be using a porta potti that would be back there near the door, sitting on a shower pan of some sort. This would make it easier to access for dumping time.

For the 270 lb. bike I'm thinking of either hauling it in the back of the van, or on a Versahaul, or maybe haul it on the front.

Here's a pic that I saw somewhere that got me thinking of doing it this way:

My wall is only temporary. Just to use ac once parked. The ac is secured until I park in bro's yard. I do not want a permanent wall. I like access through the back. 
I've seen that pic before. It was on tnttt site. That fellar hasn't been back on that site for several years. It does look good. I don't use my CT enough to justify doing that. Just a temp wall to Cool off at bro house in Panama city beach for 2 or 3 night's. 3 hour drive away. Here is temp wall drawing: 

 

[user 423]

My wall is only temporary. Just to use ac once parked. The ac is secured until I park in bro's yard. I do not want a permanent wall. I like access through the back. 
I've seen that pic before. It was on tnttt site. That fellar hasn't been back on that site for several years. It does look good. I don't use my CT enough to justify doing that. Just a temp wall to Cool off at bro house in Panama city beach for 2 or 3 night's. 3 hour drive away. Here is temp wall drawing: 

Sorry, haven't commented on this thread for a while. A cargo hasn't much volume, so just about any small AC unit will keep you comfy. Last time I was in Panama City it was during Feb. and it was already getting pretty warm...

 

[user 423]

A little update:

I've been having vehicle problems so things have been on hold for a while. Still plan to head to NM for the winter but will have to take my old Dodge instead of the '93 Ford E150 I bought a while back.

My trailer requirements have changed since I will only be snowbirding and not going full-time. Health issues dictate I keep my apt. as a home base, at least for now.

Haven't bought a trailer yet but there are quite a few dealers in TX that I will check out on the way down. That will cut about 500 miles off of the distance I'll need to tow with an old van...LOL.

Looks like a 6x12 with a ramp makes more sense for hauling a motorcycle, so I'll likely go with one of those. More trailers out there with ramps to choose from,too. I'll just be doing the insulating thing right away and have no built-ins this winter and use just basic camping gear + bins. Probably will just sleep in the van since the bed platform is already in it. I like to be able to drive away quickly if the need arises.

 

[Whit30]

I've been trying to decide between a 6x12 single axle or 7x14 double axle cargo trailer.
My tow vehicle is an 04 Silverado ext cab v8, with a shell, so I could do either. Curb weight wise there isn't much difference. I have a little 50cc Scooter I'll want to haul along as well. We also have a kitty cat. 
If it was just me I could get along fine with the 6x12. But I'm afraid it's just a little to small for me and my wife and kitty. Neither of us are large people, me 5'7" 170#, her 5'6" 125#. 

I see advantages and disadvantages to both. 
6x12 single axle- Fewer tires to replace, good visabiliy towing, but could be a bouncy tow.
7x14 double axle-smother ride, comes with electric brakes, but more tires to replace, harder to see around when towing.

Anyone who has had both, 6 wide vs 7, just how much more hassle is the bigger trailer? Is the extra room worth the issues pulling a wider load?