Question for 6 x 12 cargo dweller

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I've noticed that too,even made some close offers but they didn't budge. Too many toys out there to be hauled and now so many people converting them. I'll definitely buy new unless I find a good deal on a used.
 
Mine is a Carry-on which is a budget brand, but built fairly well. I bought it used and unfortunately they don't offer a model exactly like mine anymore. 6x12 deep v nose with a rounded roof so even though it has 6' walls it's about 6' 6" in the center. It also only had 1/8" luan on the walls when I bought it and no windows. Going down the road you could see the walls sort of oil canning originally. After windows, insulation, and wiring I used some premium 1/4" panelling and screwed it off every 16" on each h stud. The walls are much stiffer now.
Beds are at the very back, and can be folded up against the wall if needed. I really never do that as my motorcycle just barely fits between them, but I do have the option if say, I want to haul a quad. Main kitchen and utilities cabinet is built in across the front of the v nose. Then on the driver's side is a fold down shelf about 4' long with a Chuck box on top and a cooler underneath. It's still a work in progress even after 4+ years, but I like it. I posted the build under. On versions if you search " masterplumber's cargo trailer conversion ".
 
slow2day said:
I've noticed that too,even made some close offers but they didn't budge.


That's because the margins are SO thin, at least on the budget models.

Pretty much, MSRP, or take a hike.
 
I've been looking at the Carry-On site and discovered they sell a single-axle 6x14. The empty weight is only 980 lbs. I know 2-axles are recommended but by keeping it lightly loaded, a single should be OK. They don't list prices though, so I need to check tomorrow w/a dealer.

That would work for me as I would have plenty of interior space and the tongue would be available to carry a generator. If I did the bed like yours MP, I could then haul my XT225 Yam in the trailer instead of in the van.
 
Interesting that they list the 6x14 at 980 lbs as that was what my 6x12 was listed as on the original sticker that was inside of it. I figured keeping the weight down was the reason they used 1/8" luan as it was originally sold in Wyoming. They offer a special discounted plate if the trailer weighs under 1000 lbs empty.
As an aside, I've now towed mine approx 20,000 miles with no issues. I do plan to convert it to tandem axle soon as it's pretty well maxed out with my bike in it, and bounces around a lot behind my truck even when the bike isn't in it. I think it will also ride smoother on rough forest roads as the tires can help bridge the ruts rather than fall into them.
 
slow2day said:
That would work for me as I would have plenty of interior space and the tongue would be available to carry a generator.


Thats why I bought the standard curved nose....more room on the tongue for a genset. I bought a lightweight ATV hitch rack and U-bolted it to the tongue, and my 2200 watt generator fits perfectly.
 
I bought the ramp door version, so I can haul a motorcycle...plus I made it where the ramp can be a small porch or deck when desired. The desk I built inside folds down so there is plenty of room for the bike.

My van has my bed and other stuff, so the trailer is mainly a toy hauler and mobile ham station.

 

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Nice set up Brian, love the porthole windows in the van door. I went back and forth on the V nose vs standard. Since I tow with my work truck I can throw a gen set in there if needed and decided I liked the layout with the v nose better. I do have just enough room on the tongue for a 20 lb LP bottle which is coming soon.
 
Thanks for the tips and pics. I'm really going to have to do some more research and decide pretty soon.

I was going to build a 'pony' wall about 1' inside from the barn doors. Then I would mount a small AC in the upper right corner and mount the spare tire under it, on the wall. Batteries would sit at the lower left. Electrical distribution would be in that area also. I'd put a door with a window in the middle of that wall (but only on a 7' wide cargo). With the double doors closed, all that stuff would be hidden from view but still accessible.

If I decided it was a good idea to haul the bike in the trailer, I would make the inside door at least 3' wide and use an aluminum loading ramp to load the bike. And a bed setup like you have MP. I planned to also put a 30"x30" washing machine drain pan (at the rear and to the left) for a shower base, and that would need to pivot up out of the way to let the bike in.

Thoughts?
 
I like the idea of a wall inside, especially if you go with a 14' box. My spare is bolted to the outside of the ramp door, and I'm pretty much out of space for AC. I don't need to often and we make do with fans, but AC would sure be nice sometimes. For the shower pan, have you thought of mounting it below the floor and having a plywood insert over it? That way you don't have to worry about drain connections leaking and it's not in the way when you don't need it. I'm considering doing this in front of my kitchen area once I remove my carpet. And yes, even with indoor/ outdoor carpet it's a pain to keep clean, so it's going to go away in favor of boat deck paint with silica sand added for traction, and throw rugs that can be shaken out outside.
 
tx2sturgis said:
I bought the ramp door version, so I can haul a motorcycle...plus I made it where the ramp can be a small porch or deck when desired. The desk I built inside folds down so there is plenty of room for the bike.

Yeah, it would be nice to have a porch for extra room, lawn chair relaxin'. Do you have jacks of some kind to level it out if you need to?
 
masterplumber said:
I like the idea of a wall inside, especially if you go with a 14' box. My spare is bolted to the outside of the ramp door, and I'm pretty much out of space for AC. I don't need to often and we make do with fans, but AC would sure be nice sometimes. For the shower pan, have you thought of mounting it below the floor and having a plywood insert over it? That way you don't have to worry about drain connections leaking and it's not in the way when you don't need it. .

I'm kind of wondering how much I would need the AC but I have a 5500 btu that's practically new, so it will at least be taken along, maybe not installed right away.

I like the idea of lowering the shower pan..thanks. If it's 30x30 though, wouldn't that be hard to do with the trailer floor framing? Isn't it just 24" between crossmembers? Or 16"? I haven't even looked underneath one of the things.
 
slow2day said:
 Isn't it just 24" between crossmembers? Or 16"?  I haven't even looked underneath one of the things.

16 inches unless you buy one of the small lightweight trailers like a 4x8. Then it might be 24" centers.

I would not want to cut a huge hole in the floor of mine...
 
slow2day said:
Yeah, it would be nice to have a porch for extra room, lawn chair relaxin'.  Do you have jacks of some kind to level it out if you need to?

Yes, I just made some stiff leg stands from 4x4 stock. You can see them stacked in the picture in one of my posts above (#31) with the open rear door and the bike. They are standing to the left of the motorcycle.

I also moved the tailgate lift cables forward, to get them out of the way, I kept tripping over them.

Here is a side view with the ramp horizontal, I had not leveled the trailer when I took this picture:

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masterplumber said:
so it's going to go away in favor of boat deck paint with silica sand added for traction, and throw rugs that can be shaken out outside.

Doug, I used garage floor paint and added a pound of that anti-skid paint additive. The bike does not move across the floor when its strapped down and in the chock.

I love it...its a bit hard to sweep clean, it is doable, but a small blower works great.

Again, mine is not a dwelling per-se, so I wont be in there with bare feet. Throw-rugs would be a great idea...I just use a 3x5 rubber mat that I already had.
 
I like the roof on the Carry-On trailers but for mounting solar panels you'd have to install ladder racks. The link below shows a flat-top trailer with a pretty nifty way to install panels (first pic, upper left):

 

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