Question for 6 x 12 cargo dweller

[masterplumber]

For the pan in the floor, you just need to cut 1 cross frame, then weld a piece of the same size angle between the cross frame members on each side. A bit of work but not to tough to do. It will only be slightly weaker, not enough to notice just walking on it. But that is why I want to do it just in front of my kitchen cabinet - the motorcycle ride back behind that.

For mounting solar panels on the slightly rounded roof, it depends upon how much you need. My vent is centered side to side, and biased to the front about 1/3 - 2/3. I plan to run Unistrut down each side of the vent the entire length, approx 24" apart. The center of the roof isn't as rounded as the sides. I'll mount this to each roof rib using large self tapping screws. I did this on my old Four Wheel camper and it held up no problem for 100,000 miles or so, even when I ripped one of the cross bars off on a low hanging branch. Then I'll run aluminum angle between the Unistrut on each end of the panels and the panels will attach to that. I'll have a 100 watt panel in front of, and behind the vent for 200 watts total. The panels will also be able to tilt toward either side to better catch the sun. I thought about the normal racks mounted to the sides, but it would ruin the look of the rounded roof which I like, and stick way up above the roof at the sides.

I like the idea of using the ramp door for a deck, but I almost never open my rear door except to load and unload the bike. 1, because I don't want everyone to see all my junk and ruin the illusion that I'm a neat and organized camper ? And 2, I usually set up so my "yard" is on the side by my door.

For throw rugs I use horse saddle blankets. They can usually be picked up for $5 or $10 on sale, in a variety of colors. And just thrown in the wash when dirty.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I like the roof on the Carry-On trailers but for mounting solar panels you'd have to install ladder racks.

Just glue a couple of flexible solar panels up there...no rack needed.

Yeah, it's personal preference, but I like the 'barrel' roof on mine. It gives me extra headroom inside, and hopefully will shed snow better, and pooling of rain water on the roof is a non-issue.

 

[tx2sturgis]

... I usually set up so my "yard" is on the side by my door.

{snip}

For throw rugs I use horse saddle blankets. They can usually be picked up for $5 or $10 on sale, in a variety of colors. And just thrown in the wash when dirty.

What did you do for an 'awning'? Did you see mine? Its a mesh tarp I had made and I attached d-rings to the trailer and then I use a couple of adjustable tent poles and an aluminum channel for the supports. It works well, and the total cost was decent.

And that's a fine idea for throw rugs...I will stop by a feed and tack soon.

 

[user 423]

For the pan in the floor, you just need to cut 1 cross frame, then weld a piece of the same size angle between the cross frame members on each side.

I'll mount this to each roof rib using large self tapping screws.

Initially, I thought that I wanted to do a light as possible build, with minimal attachments to the walls & floor so that I could resell it easier, as a regular cargo. If I decided later that I wasn't happy with the amount of space,etc. I could switch to a bigger trailer or a 2 axle. Will think about that some more.

What would you use to seal where the screws go through the roof? Butyl tape under? Seems that many screws thru the skin would add a lot of places for potential leaks.

 

[tx2sturgis]

What would you use to seal where the screws go through the roof?  Butyl tape under?  Seems that would add a lot of places for potential leaks.

You could use self-drilling roof screws...they come with a rubber washer already under the head. Then you could cover them with dicor if you wanted.

 

[user 423]

Just glue a couple of flexible solar panels up there...no rack needed.

... and hopefully will shed snow better, and pooling of rain water on the roof is a non-issue.

The flex panels might be a good option; don't know much about solar yet, so need to research.

Yeah, I did wonder about the flat roof eventually having problems with leaks and actually the way those panel mounts on that one are done, there are a lot of screws that go thru that top L-section molding. I like how close the panels sit to the roof on that setup.

 

[John61CT]

The "semi-flex" solar panels don't last nearly as long as framed glass ones, and cost at least double $/W, but can be lower shipping.

They should not be just glued directly to the roof, since they'll need replacing every few years (if you're lucky) and also you want the heat to be carried away for efficiency and longevity.

If you still want to use them, make sure to buy them with a stiff metal backing panel, and mount them set off a bit from the roof, and so they are easy to replace.

 

[tx2sturgis]

They should not be just glued directly to the roof, since they'll need replacing every few years (if you're lucky) and also you want the heat to be carried away for efficiency and longevity.

If you still want to use them, make sure to buy them with a stiff metal backing panel, and mount them set off a bit from the roof, and so they are easy to replace.

Yep...I was being a bit flamboyant with the word 'glue'...they should be fastened with something other than just glue (like silicone or similar) mainly because the glue can turn loose in the heat and will be under stress as the panels expand and contract in the heat and cool cycles.

I did not glue mine to the roof either. But I have seen some success on youtube with industrial strength velcro...so it MUST be true...right?

I just use a portable panel and for my use, it works fine.

 

[Queen]

We're probably going to end up with a WeeRoll to get rolling, it has a hatch for a 5000btu AC, but I'm trying to figure out how you brace it once it's in place, since the van walls aren't anywhere near as thick/rigid as a house. What are you planning to do with yours?? I know I can use a wedged 2x4, but was wondering if anyone had a more elegant solution.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Something like these should work:

 

[Queen]

Hmm, wonder if I could make them removable, without making a place to let in a leak? I'll ask the guys at WeeRoll since I'm getting a custom size, maybe I could get something like that set up with them.

 

[tx2sturgis]

You mean for cool season removal once a year? or taking it out for service?

I'd just have the brackets bolted to the bottom metal pan of the AC unit.

Then the brackets will brace against the wall with no holes needed. I would, of course, use a pair of foam pads or rubber 'bumpers' to protect things.

But, I would assume the trailer has bracing in the wall if there is a cutout for an AC unit.

 

[Queen]

You mean for cool season removal once a year? or taking it out for service?

I'd just have the brackets bolted to the bottom metal pan of the AC unit.

Then the brackets will brace against the wall with no holes needed. I would, of course, use a pair of foam pads or rubber 'bumpers' to protect things.

But, I would assume the trailer has bracing in the wall if there is a cutout for an AC unit.

Brilliant idea!  Something I can still do too! The ac in the wee roll, as far as I can tell, is removed whenever you move the trailer.  Guess it makes sense as it's just a hatch in the wall and not a big thick enclosure.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I just went outside and took a picture of the way one of mine is braced. Now this is on a house, not a trailer.

And part of the corner bracket/brace is hidden behind the panel, but its been fine for about 20 years!

 

[tx2sturgis]

Something I can still do too! The ac in the wee roll, as far as I can tell, is removed whenever you move the trailer. 

Hmmm...Do you want to be lifting that thing in and out all the time?

Well if you do have brackets attached to the AC, make sure you check on all the internal bits, and you might have to figure out a way to set it down level, maybe add a another set of brackets for 'legs'.

Or if the AC unit will be pulled from the inside, like most are, you wont be able to put the brackets on the AC's floor pan.

Or they do make removable and even folding brackets...I bet you can find something that will work.

 

[user 423]

We're probably going to end up with a WeeRoll to get rolling, it has a hatch for a 5000btu AC, but I'm trying to figure out how you brace it once it's in place, since the van walls aren't anywhere near as thick/rigid as a house. What are you planning to do with yours??

That might be a problem and I was wondering how stout I would need to build the inside wall so the AC wouldn't vibrate to beat the band. 3/4" plywood or a sandwich of 1/8" paneling and 1x2's? If I put a door in the middle, the section of wall where the AC sits would be even floppier. I guess it would be trial and error...like so many of my other projects,LOL.

 

[masterplumber]

For bolting the Unistrut to the roof, they make large diameter sheet metal screws - like 1/4''. I was going to use those with a washer, as the slots in the Unistrut are big enough to allow a 3/8'' bolt. Then I was going to seal the hole with Sika Flex before putting the screw in. On my last camper I just sealed them with silicone and never had a leak in 10 years so I'm not to worried about it. I considered some high end semi flexible solar panels that mount with 3M tape. I know someone who has had them on their camper in the AZ sun for several years with no problem, but they are considerably thicker than the normal flexible panels. But uber expensive - if I recall something like $800 for 180 watts worth. They were long and narrow though and would have fit down the sides of my vent perfectly.

Right now I just use and old easy up for shade. I plan to make 2 of those $100 awnings that are cropping up on You Tube etc. One with shade cloth and one with a tarp so I can shade both sides of the trailer. I just need to figure an elegant way to mount them since i don't have a rack. I may make some kind of mount on the Unistrut for the panels, so the awnings will shade the roof of the trailer also. I want to remove them and store them under the trailer in PVC tubes when not in use so they don't deteriorate so fast.

As for the rounded roof shedding snow, it doesn't. However as the snow melts the water runs right off and never puddles so that's a good thing.

And yeah, sometimes we get carried away with all these crazy improvements. The more I think about the shower I think I'm just going to get one of those portable potty tents and shower outside. So much easier and there's never a chance of the hose spraying the wrong direction and getting water on the walls, or worse yet the bed. I already have a yard sprayer shower I made for the water part of it. If it's to cold to shower outside and I just have to have one, well that's what they make truck stops for.

 

[user 423]

...I may make some kind of mount on the Unistrut for the panels, so the awnings will shade the roof of the trailer also. .

That seems like it would work well. Awnings; something else I haven't thought about..

 

[tx2sturgis]

Right now I just use and old easy up for shade. I plan to make 2 of those $100 awnings that are cropping up on You Tube etc. One with shade cloth and one with a tarp so I can shade both sides of the trailer. I just need to figure an elegant way to mount them since i don't have a rack.

I've seen some of those but I have a different solution I think.

I mounted D-rings on the outside screwed into the frame, then I use carabiner type snaps or quicklinks to attach either mesh tarp or the sunshades I bought. I also use a couple of small turnbuckles to account for stretch and slight variations. I also have a plastic awning clamp to support the middle of the edge next to the trailer roof rain gutter. I also use a single lightweight piece of aluminum angle stock on the outside edge over the poles to keep that edge neat and not 'saggy'.

Regular cheap poly tarps will fall apart in short order, and are noisy in the wind. Mesh tarps are quiet and reinforced, or you can buy small sunsails that will work, some are rainproof, but noisy, and the woven ones are quiet but allow rain to fall thru. I have both. I have three in total, one for the van, one for the trailer, and one in reserve.

Yes, this design does not 'seal' off the gap between the trailer and the material, but that is not a concern for me. If its pouring rain, I'm not normally outside anyway.

I can set this up in less than 5 minutes. If a big storm rolls in, I can lower the material and toss it in the trailer in about a minute.

The mesh tarp and all the hardware and stakes fit in this bag:



The poles are carried separately of course.





These are the attachment points:






Here is a close-up of one of the hooks...simple but it works.

 

[tx2sturgis]

We're probably going to end up with a WeeRoll to get rolling, it has a hatch for a 5000btu AC, but I'm trying to figure out how you brace it once it's in place,

Is this similar to the one you are looking at? I just stumbled across this on YouTube.

This one also has the twin vertical windows on the curbside I was talking to mothercoder about...

I see how the AC is now.....not sure how its braced on theirs. I would assume it is bolted in but just not sure.

[video=youtube]