overlandsiberia
getting all-metal trailer built
It seems like you were loading Tacoma roughly to 2/3 of towing capacity.^^^The Harbor Freight trailer has a lot of short comings. We have had several but usually had to repack the bearings immediately as the factory doesn’t put much grease on the bearings and got about 3,000 miles out of tires. We generally switched to larger wheels and fenders with regular vehicle tires but then had to reinforce the tongue while welding all the bolted together joints. Eventually there wasn’t much of the Harbor Freight trailer left as I modified a boat trailer axle to fit and replaced the original axle. The next trailer I built myself but it ended up costing about $800 and weighing about twice what the Harbor Freight trailer did. The Harbor Freight trailer is light, worked and never gave us any problems while traveling. My camper box weighed about 800 lbs. but had too much frontal area which made it hard to tow with my little 4 cylinder Tacoma. It was 7’wide by 6’ tall and 7’ long so way too big for the trailer but it worked below 60 MPH. It is now 11’ long and mounted on the front of my 24’ flatbed trailer. The Harbor Freight trailer got cut down and now hauls 2 55 gallon barrels for my fresh and black water. There is a whole section on Harbor Freight trailers and foamies at tnttt.com but building doesn’t require anything heavy like 2”x 4” construction lumber if using Poor Man’s Fiberglass inside and out. Paul Elkins Burning Man foam structure taped together holds his weight when he gets on top to get a better view! lol!!!
I'd say that getting closer to max capacity one can expect noticeably less power, max load is really the max safe load to get from point A to point B, not the optimal driving load. In any case, 55mph is usually officially recommended safe towing speed for most trailers. In real life I would not tow at more than 60mph, 65mph only in some situations on better quality roads, for safety reasons alone, vehicle strain is another thing.
For constant towing (rather than occasional from point A to point B hauls), such as full-timing with the trailer and moving frequently, in the mountains, going to multiple states, I personally would want to stay under 2/3 of towing capacity especially on long interstate drives, for the sake of tow vehicle. So if I get tandem axle 2K lbs cargo trailer + put max 2K lbs load on it, I'd want a truck capable of towing at least 6K, I think.
Then I'd want a cargo trailer that's not the perfectly rectangular but more aerodynamic such as rounded corners or V-shape nose, this should be helping not only with gas mileage but also with reducing strain on the tow vehicle. I'd make sure to go slow on the uphills and use downhills to gain speed for the next uphill portion.
I initially thought of getting a smaller size van (so that I could get non-commercial insurance) and towing cargo trailer with the van but my understanding vans are just worse at towing, even when they have same towing capacity as trucks.