Question for 6 x 12 cargo dweller

[user 423]

I'm working on a floor plan and trying to decide between a 6' cargo and a 7'. My van has a 34" wide gaucho bed that I could use but it's not very comfortable.  I am now sleeping on a 3" thick talalay latex mattress pad over a twin mattress in my apt. and it's very comfortable and great for my back and want to use it in the cargo.

The interior width of the 6' cargo I'm considering will be 67" after adding insulaton. With the 39" wide twin bed and a 15" wide counter on the opposite side of the trailer, I'll have only a 13" wide aisle. I'm trying to decide if that will be enough for regular access to the shower/toilet at the back of the trailer.

BTW...I've tried sleeping on the gaucho foam setup with the talalay pad in place but it's not the same. Too hard. It's OK if I also use the 30" Klymit air mattress I have but air mattresses always end up leaking, so I'd rather not mess with that.

Thoughts?

 

[John61CT]

13" is tight but OK for my family.

Get a very firm foam mat as a base for your talalay latex, maybe cover them both, make it into one mattress.

I like the waterproof tough-covering gym mat style cover, then put a breathable pad under the sheets, really helps the mattress last forever, some at 15 years now.

But keep them separate if that makes things easier to handle.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Give us a hint:

Are you:

Small,

Average, or

Large?

That might get us on the same page.

What works for a 5'7" skinny guy might not work for a 400 pound 6 foot 5 inch linebacker.

 

[user 423]

Get a very firm foam mat as a base for your talalay latex, maybe cover them both, make it into one mattress.

The gaucho isn't one that folds but is a bed I built from plywood and I used a 4" slab of higher density stuff I got from Foam Factory. By itself it's great for my back but I'm a side sleeper (and weigh 230 lbs) so it caused pain at the hips after a couple of hours. I then added 2" of medium density...same problem. I then tried the Klymit air mattress in between the two and it's OK but by morning the mattress is noticeably deflated but has no apparent leaks (yet). I just don't like air mattresses...I can't sleep because I'm expecting them to go flat,LOL.

 

[user 423]

Small,

Average, or

Large?

Between Average and Large: 5'-11" and 230. Man, can you imagine being tackled by a 400 lb. linebacker? Ouch.

 

[tx2sturgis]

lol...

No and I don't want to!

I only ask because us bigger guys need some room to move around.

No 'murphy' bed in the plans?

 

[user 423]

No 'murphy' bed in the plans?

Yes, I did think about hinging the plywood base so you could swing everything up and out of the way. I also thought maybe I could get just the bottom of a long van bench seat and build the base around it. When the mattress was swung up out of the way there would be extra seating. Maybe even put some kind of seat backs on the underside of the base plywood.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Of course, its up to you but I would look into that.

It would give you a lot more living space.

If you go to youtube and type in "cargo trailer murphy bed" you will see some cool ideas.

 

[user 423]

Expensive data limits my YouTubing but I'll check at the library tomorrow.

 

[masterplumber]

On my 6x12 I have 69 1/2" between the finished walls. I have a 24" bed/sofa down each side, and a connector board that can fill in between for one large bed. That leaves me about 21" between. I'm 6' and 230 and it works for me. If I was single traveling alone the 13" would work, but you'll" have to walk sideways in that part. On the other hand you cabinet across could have a fold down door at just the right height to be an awesome work counter/ desk.

 

[user 423]

Which brand of cargo do you have MP? That's another thing, trying to pick a brand.

Also, are the beds located all the way to the back of the trailer?

 

[wagoneer]

I SLEEP ON A TWIN 3" FIRM LATEX ONLY IT'S PERFECT AND NEVER BOTTOM OUT. 5.9 162 lbs

 

[tx2sturgis]

That's another thing, trying to pick a brand.

Yeah good luck there...

I would look locally at the dealers, you might like what you see.

If they can order a trailer with insulation and windows to your liking, and you can afford the expense and tolerate waiting, that is what I would do. Or, just order one with NO interior paneling at all. This option gives you the chance to inspect the trailer wiring, which was a mess on mine, but completely hidden when the panels were in place.

I bought a basic 6x12 with no insulation or windows and its a LOT of work pulling out all the interior trim, insulating, installing windows, and then replacing all the trim boards and interior paneling, in the right order and proper places.

I would NOT do it that way again.

Just my thoughts and maybe others will disagree...

 

[Almost There]

I highly recommend Wells Cargo trailers to anyone who asks (and even to some who don't... )

My first one almost survived a major accident on I95 in NC 20 years ago and was quickly replaced with another W/C that has lasted me the past 20 years. Other than replacing the tires because of aging out and repacking the wheel bearings it's doing just fine...not a leak anywhere.

This one is stock but the first one I added concession lift windows, an extra foot of height, placed the man door where I wanted it and had a gray water tank installed as part of the order. AFAIK they still do custom orders.

I don't know where you are but they have dealers all across the continent and 4 manufacturing facilities.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Or, just order one with NO interior paneling at all. This option gives you the chance to inspect the trailer wiring, which was a mess on mine, but completely hidden when the panels were in place.

I was not aware that it was possible to order them without the inner walls.  The outer skin is only 0.030 aluminum and the cheaper ones, that use the z-rails or hat-rack type posts NEED the plywood to add enough structural strength to drive it down the road.  Maybe the better ones, which use rectangular tubing for posts could permit it . . .

 

[user 423]

  The outer skin is only 0.030 aluminum and the cheaper ones, that use the z-rails or hat-rack type posts NEED the plywood to add enough structural strength to drive it down the road.  Maybe the better ones, which use rectangular tubing for posts could permit it . . .

Yeah, that could be a problem. Maybe I could find a dealer near a Home Depot and start the conversion right away if I did that.

I will want to know what's under there, so good tip TX2. I'll have plenty of time on my hands andI won't mind doing a lot of work. Keeps me off the streets.

 

[tx2sturgis]

...NEED the plywood to add enough structural strength to drive it down the road.

Most of these trailers come in to the dealer on a flatbed...but yes I suppose structural integrity could be an issue. I'd tell them to X-brace it internally with a few 1x3's and I'd take it!

BTW mine was not fitted inside with plywood...they used 1/8 inch (IIRC) luan paneling. Not much strength there.

As always, due diligence.

 

[user 423]

BTW mine was not fitted inside with plywood...they used 1/8 inch (IIRC) luan paneling. Not much strength there.

Which brand is it?

 

[tx2sturgis]

Which brand is it?

CargoMate.

It's a budget trailer, but decent Dexter running gear and a ramp door. The rear frame is HEAVY steel.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Also, just me, but I wont even consider a used cargo trailer, they hold their value so well that a used one in good condition is nearly the price of a new one...and you know the bearings are new, in good shape, and you have at least some kind of warranty.