1993 Ford Club Wagon (Juanita born again)

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are you sure it is not just a worn belt making the noise and not the ac
 
SternWake said:
Those are wood runners in your fiberglass roof.  Mine is similarly designed, but unfortunately uses OSB instead of plywood.  It is just under 1/2 inch thick and takes a proper length screw well.

Awesome! I was looking at them for reasons of insulation rather than hanging anything from them... They will help with installing some sort of ceiling over the insulation. I plan on a shelf over the cab, so might need some sort of L bracket of secure a "front" to. I'm guessing that OSB is not really as strong as the plywood would be?
 
Gary68 said:
are you sure it is not just a worn belt making the noise and not the ac

Of course I'm not sure  :blush:  A home mechanic told me that's what it sounded like but he wouldn't touch it as it's above his pay grade and since I'm gonna have to have that taken care of, I should just let the shop do the tune-up at the same time... I know a couple of other home mechanics, though! LOL
 
what sort of sound does it make? usually the compressor will clatter if it's going out
 
I don't like telling people how to tell if the belt is bad(making noise). it's really easy but you could also get hurt really bad by not paying attention, NOT FOR AMATEURS. also do not use OSB when building, plywood is far superior if you are going to build it yourself the few bucks more for plywood is well worth it. highdesertranger
 
No clatter sound. No whining like belts *usually* sound. I only heard it once, although for 10 minutes or so, but I might describe it as a low growl or a very loud purr. My son-in-law heard it and said, "that's the A/C clutch". It was later explained that it meant the whole compressor would need to be replaced....

HDR, the OSB discussion was about what's in my hightop. If I build any cabinets at all, it will be the foam board construction. I do plan on a shelf above the cab area for large storage, so that will definitely be plywood! I assume I'll also use plywood as a sub floor... No fear of me adding OSB, just hoping if that's in my hightop that it holds up a ceiling!!
 
Well considering he's heard it, and I haven't, I'd have to yield to him, knowing he knows his way around an engine
 
Haven't gotten the ol' wagon to the car wash but it is raining cats and dogs here so I decided to go sit in the van and listen to the drops falling on the fiberglass high top... so soothing... sounds of my future (or not with insulation).

But 'lo and behold... Danger, Will Robinson!!

LeakingSideWindow.jpg

The side windows leak!! I researched the issue and it appears to be common. My question is what is the best sealant to use? This would not be a rain gutter or actual metal issue... the side windows pop out at the bottom to open. I won't be able to get better pictures until tomorrow.

HeadLinerWet.jpg

As you can see, the headliner above the window is soaking wet and you can see by the line that this is not the first time this has happened! I am reminded of a post by the very logical Optimistic Paranoid who told me, and I quote, "It's going to be awfully hard for you to be objective when you test drive if you're already so emotionally committed to it that you've named it."

Darn it, I guess the honeymoon is over and reality is setting in! I've ordered a door cable repair kit, some reflectix to make window coverings so the neighbors won't see me working in her, a small toolkit that includes several different screwdriver heads and a few sockets, a license plate screw set, and a tape measure to figure out the insides. I gotta get moving on this thing as the days are passing so quickly!!
 

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what windows are leaking? the aftermarket windows in the high top? highdesertranger
 
No, sorry. The side windows in the van above the wheel wells. This van is all windows!! There are 6 or 7 that pop open from the bottom... The two longest windows are behind the side doors, above the wheel wells...
 
In over my head, but determined!! I was wrong about the windows leaking. I am just lousy with details, which is why I take so many pictures!! The windows above the wheel wells are not movable and are not leaking. There is no water on the inside of the windows at all. The water is in the headliner which is so soaked that it is dripping onto the floor. I have to remove the seatbelts first, then the headliner or panels or something... Don't have the right tools (and probably don't have the strength either) to remove anything yet. The little screwdriver/socket set I bought is tiny compared to the actual nuts and bolts in this darned van. I also found, while doing a little sweeping up, a whole bunch of holes drilled through the floor that will have to be patched. My list of things I need is growing, growing, growing... 

So these pictures show the hightop and the rain gutter. I'm sure that's where the leaks really are, so will need a different sealant than I was thinking. It also looks like there's a lot of debris between the fiberglass and the black weather seal that will need to be vacuumed out of there. Ah well, what fun, what fun!! I still haven't called a mechanic yet either. LOL

HighTopRainGutter.jpg

This picture is almost the length of the hightop... it was a bit dangerous for me to get this picture, but I wanted to see what shape the top was. There's a flat area right across the middle of the van that I can put ladder racks and solar panels on, then a sloping flat spot in the back for a vent/fan. This picture also shows the dark areas along the rain gutter where it looks like water is pooling. I left the picture at full size to show it better.

CloseUpRainGutter.jpg

And this is a close up of the rain gutter.

Here is a link to the product that has been recommended on the sportsmobileforum site

Tremco 116 Vulkem Polyurethane High-Performance Sealant, Black

Is this a good product? Anybody use it before?
 

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Geocell ProFlex in a can or tube. (I prefer the can) ~$25 qt can-~$8 tube
 
Whatever you do, do NOT use any silicone sealer!  When it fails - and it will - it will then become impossible for any other sealer to stick where the silicone was.
 
On the geocel, it says it's usually sold with lap sealant and butyl tape. Do I also need those items? This product appears to be acrylic rather than silicone??
 
The butyl tape is for re-sealing/mounting new , windows , doors , vents etc.
You might be able to jam it in the crack between the high top and the roof but not sure how long it might last there.....

Lap sealant typically is used to seal roof seams or penetrations like tank vents on flat surfaces , not vertical.

Pro Flex is NOT silicone.
The stuff in the can will flow and is applied with a brush or roller. It has the consistency of thick honey
The tube version doesn't flow and can be used on vertical .

If the leak is from a crack in the fiberglass there is some stuff at marine supply places called Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
that might work.
5200 and 4200 are also found at any marine supply in caulk tubes and in toothpaste squeeze tubes for smaller qty. uses but will dry out if you don't use it all and try to save it for any length of time....



I've tried pretty much everything over the years ......
 
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