The Fat Van

[Gary68]

got this today

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281915905516?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

his home site
http://www.fredwarner1.net/


could of gone to wallyworld but would much rather support small business,take a couple minutes to see who you are buying stuff from
mega company or guy next door?

 

[Ballenxj]

got this today.

Being marine grade it should be built to a higher standard, and also should work better in a vehicle than one made to use in a house.
Good idea.

 

[Gary68]

Being marine grade it should be built to a higher standard, and also should work better in a vehicle than one made to use in a house.
Good idea.

my "good idea" was looking at gotsmarts set up and pming stern wake before i pushed buy

 

[Gary68]

the plywood around the window is 5/8? just over 1/2 inch thick and was combined with the 1/8 paneling to bet the thickness right for the window mounts so i thought i would just remove it all and replace with 3/4 wood,the plywood was fiberglassed in the best i could do was get the rot off

grabbed the 3m 5200 and glued up some new wood

the walls are not flat so had to goop it on and the 5200 is on the thin side and wants to run,we will see if the next pics are of wood on the wall or me and a razorblade trying to get the runs off my windows

 

[Vagabound]

...

the walls are not flat so had to goop it on and the 5200 is on the thin side and wants to run,we will see if the next pics are of wood on the wall or me and a razorblade trying to get the runs off my windows

Hi Gary, it might be a bit late for this comment, but I'll try anyway. I discovered something the hard way during my build-out regarding adhesives, fiberglass, and plywood. 

In short, when I was attaching new wood to the exterior fiberglass from the inside, I just drew X's or S's is all over the new wood with the caulking-type adhesive (PL Premium), and then pressed the new wood tightly to the fiberglass using my own hillbilly method. So far, so good. 

The problem comes in when the adhesive dries and it's not attached to all parts of the fiberglass. In other words, there are areas of the fiberglass that have adhesive on them and are stuck to the new wood, and other areas of the fiberglass that have no adhesive and are not stuck to the wood. It's not coming off, but from the outside, the fiberglass is a little bit wavy where the repairs took place because it's not completely stuck to the plywood in all places.

That's a long intro to just say this: If  I had to do it all over again, I would choose a different adhesive, one that can be troweled on to the plywood. That way, every place that the fiberglass touches the plywood there would be adhesive between them, and so, no wavy areas in the fiberglass.

FWIW,

Tom

 

[Gary68]

i might be finding that out too,the 5200 is recommended for fiberglass to wood so that why i got it but a much thicker compound would of been better,i to did a s shaped bead then placed the board then removed it to see if it transferred and did only in a couple places so i went with a quarter size 1/4" blob in a few places,the short boards i could cut and place on flat areas should be fine but those long top boards,i dont know.we will see,not like doing things twice is anything new

 

[Gary68]

just checked it and it was still there,this stuff only takes a week to cure sooo

also ordered a 110? bf spray closed cell foam kit for $200

wheres brad at saying sikaflex,sikaflex

 

[VanKitten]

Gary and vagabound, as soon as the weather cooperates I will be rebuilding a wall..completely. I am glad to read your recommendations concerning getting complete coverage. When I finally got all the rot off the exterior skin...I could see that originally the adhesive was only in stripes....
I plan to do better...and now that I know, I will use a plastic trowel to spread it out better before putting up the plywood to the skin.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[Gary68]

welp,the long cure time of 3m 5200 is killing me,yesterday all looked good,this morning,frost,duct tape gave,boards on the floor,5200 almost like i just applied it,taped them back up,walked away

if i had it to do again or if i have to,i will go with a quickish set 24 hour epoxy,gorilla glue or something of the sort

these boards dont have to do much,just bond enough to mount the plywood to

 

[Ballenxj]

if i had it to do again or if i have to,i will go with a quickish set 24 hour epoxy,gorilla glue or something of the sort 

I'm still in awe of Liquid Nails. Long time ago in a different life I worked construction. I was working in either a J.C. Penny's, or Sears in a mall. The contractors had us install paneling with Liquid Nails, and nothing else. The stuff set up fairly quick, and as far as I know, that paneling is still there today?
This was in the late seventies, so, 38 years ago? I'm betting there is even better stuff out there now?

 

[Gary68]

didnt someone say they were going to wait for it to warm up before using the goo?

thats hail


maybe if i say i will wait till it gets into the 70's my inpatient az will make to 60's before i screw things up,idiot

 

[Vagabound]

I'm still in awe of Liquid Nails. ...

I'm fully convinced now after years of being on the internet that no matter what anybody says, there's always some yutz to come along and say the opposite. Today I'm that yutz.

I've heard about Liquid Nails for years and I don't think I ever used it until just recently. I had built the frame for my kitchen counter and, because I had run out of PL premium, I was using Liquid Nails to glue the 2x4 frame to the plywood wall. I put the Liquid Nails on before I screwed it in. As it turned out, I figured out the next morning that I'd made a measuring mistake and needed to take the thing off the wall, cut a piece off, and put it back.

I imagined that I was going to be well and truly screwed because of using Liquid Nails. Well, somewhere between 12 and 24 hours later when I went to pull the frame off the wall, I discovered that it just popped right off as if the Liquid Nails had never been there. It was still wet and gooey behind the 2x4, but it adhered as well as if I had used Colgate toothpaste.

I was both relieved and quite disappointed at the quality of Liquid Nails. Still not sure why I got that result, but I quit using it.

BTW, the outdoor temperature at this point in the building process was high 70s to low 80s Fahrenheit.

Tom

 

[Ballenxj]

I imagined that I was going to be well and truly screwed because of using Liquid Nails. Well, somewhere between 12 and 24 hours later when I went to pull the frame off the wall, I discovered that it just popped right off as if the Liquid Nails had never been there.

I believe I did mention that my experience was somewhere around 38 years ago? I also did mention they probably have better adhesives now?
Also, I'm pretty sure yours didn't come from the same batch as mine did 38 years earlier? Also may have been some contractor industrial grade L.N.'s. I don't remember. 
Sorry for your disappointment in L.N.'s, but glad it came apart when you needed it to.

 

[Gary68]

if someone isnt huffing your glue,you need stronger glue

 

[Ballenxj]

if someone isnt huffing your glue,you need stronger glue

That someone ain't gonna be me. I need all the brain cells I have left.

 

[BradKW]

You should try Sikaflex 221 !   

 

[Vagabound]

You should try Sikaflex 221 !   

Ahhh, everything is still right in the universe!

Tom

 

[Gary68]

 

[Gary68]

just got a freakin jury summons for mid next month,lets see if my"death penalty?yea,just shot them in the head" comment will get me excused again

 

[VanKitten]

You should try Sikaflex 221 !   

AMEN