SSW Magical Bus Conversion with lots of pics.

[SaltySeaWitch]

those look to be lug centric if you could pull a lug nut we could tell for sure.  anyway those rims cannot be used on the inside of the dually.  I would sell or trade those for the correct rims.  then you would need the correct lug nuts.  I wonder what the weight rating of those rims are?  you could overload them if they have a low rating.  what type of rim is your spare?  it should be a factory steel.  do you have the correct lug nuts for your spare. the only aluminum rims I would put on a dually are Alcoa's.  but then you still need a factory steel rim for your spare and the correct lug nuts.  highdesertranger

I plan on doing exactly that. There is bounce when you drive it that must be what you were telling me about wrong rims. How do I find out weight rating on rims? I got the bus cheap enough that I don't mind switching rims. I will sell those rims to help make the cost up.

I don't have a spare. I will have to get one. I'll be parked in my driveway a while anyway. Saving money for the road.

I am hopefully starting on the inside this weekend. Cleaning and painting in there. Hoping it doesn't rain all weekend.

What paint should I use for interior? Just Rustoleom for inside prior to laying insulation and floor? or an auto paint? I'll try and search on here today since it looks like rain so I will probably be slow at work. Haven't had much time this week for research. I'm exhausted. So ready for a road trip and some R and R.

Thanks for all your help Squishy

 

[highdesertranger]

it should be engraved/cast in the back of the rim or inside, the tire would have to be dismounted to see if inside. as far as interior paint, I am no paint guru but I have used RustoOleum on the interior with good results. highdesertranger

 

[ahh_me2]

There is bounce when you drive it that must be what you were telling me about wrong rims.

I had a bounce while driving at higher speeds, over 40-50 mph, turns out it was a well worn steady bearing.
You would only have one if you have a split driveshaft.

 

[Matlock]

Hey Matlock,

Sorry it took so long to get a pic and I didnt crawl under there but got a pic of what I could see and it's welded to the bumper I guess. I don't see any bolts or anything. The hitch is under the porch and all welded.

I will get better pics this weekend. It needs washed. there are a lot of pine needles and dirt on it.

SSW, Thank you. No need for more pic's, what you attached is all I needed to see.

 

[rvpopeye]

OH , MGsk
Sux about the rims but that means you will have the new ones off so you can paint them up to match bus (or trim). Don't forget to check the inner duals , they might be the right ones.....

The bearing is easy to check out ,,,(I always replace those as well as all the universals just cuz I can . )

Paint inside?? The metal parts, Rustoleum or Krylon (dries faster) Remember to sand first !
Are you going to cover the walls with wood or cloth ? (a chance to consult your decor advisor !) I like exterior semi gloss for indoor wood.

 

[SaltySeaWitch]

I had a bounce while driving at higher speeds, over 40-50 mph, turns out it was a well worn steady bearing.
You would only have one if you have a split driveshaft.

How do I find out if I have a split drive shaft??

OH , MGsk
Sux about the rims but that means you will have the new ones off so you can paint them up to match bus (or trim). Don't forget to check the inner duals , they might be the right ones.....

The bearing is easy to check out ,,,(I always replace those as well as all the universals just cuz I can . )

Paint inside?? The metal parts, Rustoleum or Krylon (dries faster) Remember to sand first !
 Are you going to cover the walls with wood or cloth ? (a chance to consult your decor advisor !) I like exterior semi gloss for indoor wood.

I knew when buying I was going to replace rims so no biggie.

Yes, metal.

No sure what I will do inside yet. Will consult with Kona Express my Decorator of course. For now just going to clean and paint.

 

[ahh_me2]

How do I find out if I have a split drive shaft??

If you look under the vehicle, you would see something similar to this:



If it is only one piece, then you will see a straight shaft going from the transmission to the rear differential.

PS. The steady bearing is also referred to as the center support

 

[Gary68]

If you look under the vehicle, you would see something similar to this:



If it is only one piece, then you will see a straight shaft going from the transmission to the rear differential.

PS. The steady bearing is also referred to as the center support

alway referred to them as carrier bearings myself

 

[SaltySeaWitch]

If you look under the vehicle, you would see something similar to this:



If it is only one piece, then you will see a straight shaft going from the transmission to the rear differential.

PS. The steady bearing is also referred to as the center support

First, to those who have said this board is sexist, no one has ever said "Here honey, I'll do it for you" thus it is very much equality for women on here imo. Looks like I will be crawling under the bus this weekend. LOL

Second, my brain hurts. But I learn something new every day on this site.

Third, I have no idea what a rear differential is or what it looks like. It's a hot date with Google images once again this weekend.

Fourth, if any single, mechanically knowledgeable men are on this board, call me maybe?? LOL

 

[Gary68]

the rear diff is your rear end,well not yours but the busses

 

[SaltySeaWitch]

the rear diff is your rear end,well not yours but the busses

Good thing you pointed that out Gary. I don't think Google quite understood it either :s  Now, if you will excuse me, I believe I need to delete my browser history before the boss sees it :blush:

 

[Konaexpress]

No sure what I will do inside yet. Will consult with Kona Express my Decorator of course. For now just going to clean and paint.

I'm here being quiet while the adults talk shop, I don't want to get you or your rig hurt. I can change oil, spark plugs and general maintenance but that's it. Building and designing stuff, that's a different subject. 

I know you want to make house as soon as possible (I know I would) but take some time and do all the mechanical stuff first including 12v electrical if you can. I know these guys will take care of you.

When you have down time, start drawing out plans on lined paper or cut out pieces of paper for bed, bathroom, kitchen and playing with design.
John

 

[SaltySeaWitch]

I'm here being quiet while the adults talk shop, I don't want to get you or your rig hurt. I can change oil, spark plugs and general maintenance but that's it. Building and designing stuff, that's a different subject. 

I know you want to make house as soon as possible (I know I would) but take some time and do all the mechanical stuff first including 12v electrical if you can. I know these guys will take care of you.

When you have down time, start drawing out plans on lined paper or cut out pieces of paper for bed, bathroom, kitchen and playing with design.
John

The problem with electrical is that no matter how many times I read the posts in here explaining it, or see diagrams, I seriously just don't get it. I could figure out Einsteins theories easier. I will have to wait until I can either find a step by step guide for dummies, or until I have some help. I can do a few things mechanically, but not much. Electric is way over my head. To get it done as a favor I have to wait on their free time, which is completely understandable. I wired boats for Sports Craft years ago but that was pretty easy. Color coded and someone showed me how. That has been almost 30 years ago though. I'll see if I can find a book I guess. I will be so proud of myself if I can figure it out though.

I have the basic layout in my head and have furniture from the house I can place before building to see if it works out. I'm not bolting anything down until I am sure because I change my mind too much. Also looking at ways to make it lighter yet still functional.

 

[VJG1977]

Some food for thought.
https://www.pinterest.com/nknewman77/magic-bus/
https://www.pinterest.com/muchomalgato/bus/
https://www.pinterest.com/DominiqueBoho23/busvan-life/
https://www.pinterest.com/the3sisters/my-bus-project/
https://www.pinterest.com/nahanie/buses-converted-into-homes/
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/
http://www.schoolbusdriver.org/skoolies.html
http://tribes.tribe.net/skoolie
http://www.vonslatt.com/bus-main.shtml
http://www.vonslatt.com/bus-decor.shtml

A lot of ideals, a lot of photos.

 

[rvpopeye]

You'll get all the electric advice you need here , many with the know how.
I can do this stuff while asleep. So simple compared to a large(even small) concert system.

For now the only thing you need to do is decide where you want your batteries to go, probably near the front to make connecting to the alternator easier (and cheaper too).

Your DC fuse panel close to that.

AC power usually is driver's side rear-(ish) at most campsites but that doesn't mean the breaker panel needs to be there too.

Maybe an easy way to run wiring is put in a long box (trough) along the floor behind anything you want to build in. All the major wires can be run in there and branches going out to whatever lights etc you want. This will allow the wires to be installed/maintained after everything else is in. (except for the branches)

Too much at once ? Installments as you go ........................

I'm sure Stern and others will be on call as you get to the actual build.

 

[ascii_man]

Not to muddy the waters, but since wire is flexible, I'd locate my batteries where they could help with the vehicle's balance. This might be just in front of the rear axle (too far back and you will have problems with "polar moment of inertia"), but you should use a truck scale to find out the bus's weight distribution. Might as well have yourself in there (not that it you will affect things much).

This is why many cars locate the battery in the trunk (BMW) or under the rear seat (Mercedes, several GM cars).

Even if you don't plan on setting a record at Nürburgring, better balance will give you better traction in snow and rain.

Sabine Schmitz does care about her Nürburgring time. In a van.

 

[highdesertranger]

the problem is the further the batteries are from the charging source, the larger the wire gauge needs to be. large gauge wire is very heavy and very expensive. highdesertranger

 

[masterplumber]

Weight balance side to side, is important also. But it doesn't need to be overly complicated. Just keep the really heavy things low and equalled out. So putting your batteries forward is ok, if they are opposite the driver and on the floor or even in a storage area under the bus for instance. Also, Popeye's idea of an electrical trough is a good one, because even if you think you know what you want when you start, you may decide you need something else later. For instance, now that I've spent quite a bit of time traveling in my trailer over the last couple years, I think it would be nice to have a couple 12 volt outlets near the back by my reading lights. That way I could plug in a portable fan or cell phone charger near where my head is. This won't be too hard to accomplish as I ran flexible conduit from my panel area up the front, then along the top of the wall to the back on each side. I can basically rewire my entire trailer by just removing a panel or two right at the location I want a new gizmo at. You could do something similar by mounting an electrical box every few feet at basically counter height and connecting them all together with conduit.

 

[Konaexpress]

Ok, I said I would be quiet but wouldn't you do the electric much like a house? This is to say where do you want outlets? A couple by the night stands(?), a few in the kitchen and so on? Outlets at what height by what areas you have by what items you plan to use?

What connections do all of you propose to use? USB, two prong, three prong or the marine standard that we talked about in another thread? (Can't remember who proposed this idea), 12v  or 120v?

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that she knows nothing of this........can we throw her a bone and give her pro's and con's? Can we have her tell us what she has in mind and give her a basic rudimentary design?

How long a run can you do @12v vs 120v? For longer runs(back of the bus if battery bank is in front) do you use 120v and then a rectifier to 12v or do you use 12v with more amps?

I humbly leave this to smarter minds than me,

John

 

[Almost There]

Ok, I said I would be quiet but wouldn't you do the electric much like a house? This is to say where do you want outlets? A couple by the night stands(?), a few in the kitchen and so on? Outlets at what height by what areas you have by what items you plan to use?

What connections do all of you propose to use? USB, two prong, three prong or the marine standard that we talked about in another thread? (Can't remember who proposed this idea), 12v  or 120v?


John

Despite being told by several people here to just think about using extension cords and power bars :dodgy: , I did exactly what you're suggesting.

I treated the van like a house and put outlets where I would need them.

I have a total of 8 - 12v outlets and by the time I'm finished with the wiring I will have 3 - 120V outlets (shore power/generator use only) and 2 - 120 outlets that will be wired in to the inverter.

I put the 12V outlets as follows: 2 above the foot of the bed, 1 is intended for 12V TV use, one for fan; 2 below the bed, 1 of which is in full time use for the fridge, the other can be used for either 12V blanket, fan, etc. etc.; 1 outlet is under the kitchen counter for full time use by the freezer; 1 above the kitchen counter for  12 electrical appliances in the kitchen. I also put in 2 outlets right beside the side door of the van so I can plug in stuff and take it outdoors (like my laptop and phone/wifi hotspot).

I put in a pair of regular duplex outlets right beside the side door as well, one of which will be wired to the inverter and one will be strictly 120 usage. I did this for the same reason I have 12V outlets there - I can plug things in for outdoor use. One 120V outlet is in the electrical cabinet and another one above the kitchen sink. There is also a duplex outlet below the bed but easily accessible in the kitchen area that will go to the inverter.

I also put LED lighting where I needed it - one fixture over the passenger seat for reading, one over the head of the bed and a 12" strip light over the kitchen counter.

I didn't put in any USB outlets because nothing I own uses them except my E-Reader for charging and it can be easily plugged in to an adapter or charged through my laptop.

IMO, floor plan first, then plan your electrical based on need. I figure I'll be plugged in to shore power for most of 6 months of the year and boondocking the rest of the time so I planned accordingly.

I was fortunate with the high top - I was able to run all my upper level wiring (lights, upper outlets, vent fan) along the original van roof where the high top is attached. All the lower level wiring is run along cabinet walls. I used 1 1/4" flex hose as conduit and mounted them to the walls with plumbing straps.