Spray foam insulation kits?

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vokus

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<p>What do you guys think about the spray foam inside your van approach?</p><p>It seems like a good idea.<br /><br />Has any one done it? I am wondering about this because I think it will help alot with the heat here in California... <br /><br />Vid:<br /> [video]<br /><br />Kit: $197.00<br />http://www.sprayfoamdirect.com/prod...-it-102-polyurethane-spray-foam-kit-34-detail<br /><br /></p><div class="product-description"><p class="title">The Easy To Use Spray Foam Kit</p><ul><li>102 Board Feet (102 Square feet at 1 inch thickness) of spray foam insulation that's convenient and&nbsp;easy to&nbsp;use.&nbsp;</li><li>R-Value of 6.7 at 1 inch - 97% Closed Cell Foam.&nbsp; Best wall, basement or attic insulation.</li><li>Class I E-84 Fire-Retardant - meets building code spec.</li><li>Shelf Life: 12 Months unopened, 1 Month Once Opened.</li><li>Expanding sealant creates Class 3 vapor retarder, controls air flow, and creates a tight building envelope.</li><li>Includes a pair of isocyanate resistant gloves, 10' hose assembly, 10 nozzles and 3 fan spray tips- everything you need to complete your insulating project.</li><li>Get the most control with the best gun in the business.</li><li>Comes with a Garden Hose Style Gun and 10' Hose.&nbsp; If you can water your lawn you can seal and insulate your home.</li><li>Comes with Easy to Read Instructions and Foam Like A Pro Helpful Hints.</li><li>Includes 24/7 Customer Support so You Get the Results You're Really After.</li><li>Professional Results, Your Way, Fast.</li><li>Steel canisters pressurized with nitrogen for foam delivery.&nbsp; No outside source of pressure or power is required.</li><li>100% Free of CFC's, VOC's, Penta-BDE's,&nbsp;Urea&nbsp;Formaldehyde</li><li>Made in the USA</li><li>Great for crawlspace insulation, pool and spa insulation, marine floatation, and much much more.</li><li>A <a title="Fit-Tested Respirator Mask with Organic Vapor Filters and a Prefilter for Particulates" href="http://www.sprayfoamdirect.com/prod...spirator-w3m-organic-vaporacid-gasp100-detail" target="_blank">Fit-Tested Respirator Mask with Organic Vapor Filters and a Prefilter for Particulates</a> is Required when Applying Spray Foam Insulation.</li><li>Ships Same or Next Day</li><li>Do not use for retro-filling - use the Slow Rise Formula instead.</li><li>1 x 41&nbsp;lb box (considered hazmat due to pressurized nitrogen).</li></ul></div><p><br /><br /></p>
 
Every van I ever had or assigned to me for any length of time - I filled all the seam panel's with Tough Stuff from Home Depot - to cut down on the rattling <img src="images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />Also every extension ladder I own - the hollow rung's had foam squirted into them --- there's nothing more annoying than&nbsp;a ladder singing at 60 MPH <img src="images/boards/smilies/rolleyes.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />I've used that commercial product or one exactly like it in new town house construction - filling in large gaps in the spaces left under the stairs / around garage doors - etc. The only problem I had with it --- I wasn't suited properly ---- I needed a belt sander to get it off my skin <img src="images/boards/smilies/rolleyes.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />When I was the building's maintance supervisor for Sunrise toyota in Oakdale -- their other stealer-ship is BMW of Oysterbay -- I put up a 4 bay steel building kit. Ran all the elect. - plumbing - gas lines for the Dayton space air heaters.&nbsp;After the town signed off on every thing -&nbsp;it was time for the insulation. I had a local insulation company come in and mask off and spray the whole building in one day. The next day one guy came back with a 3' wide pneumatic brush thingy on a stick - and brushed / scraped 99 % of the foam off the high spots. <img src="images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />When full sized bus time comes - ( thats what I'm leaning toward now ) ---- That's what I'm gonna do <img src="images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />&nbsp;<img src="images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />
 
Something else I remembered --<br /><br />Over at the Corvette Forum - some of the guy's spray foam into the body cavity's to cut down on the road noise coming through the FRP body work -- if they spray to much of the 3 X expanding foam they get the "Ball-Park-Frank" effect -- The body panel's tend to bulge out <img src="images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" /><br /><br />But what some of them do is - shove a big lawn &amp; leaf bag into the space first --- then spray the foam into that. It still expands to insulate the space - but - if for any reason the foam has to be removed - its a little E-Z-er without it sticking to everything inside the cavity.<br /><br />Like the inside corners at a vans rear doors ( Brad <img src="images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />&nbsp<img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">
 
Thank you!<br />This was informative.<br /><br />
 
I think the spray foam on a van would be excellent because it also cuts down on condensation that often comes with metal (at least here in Alaska).&nbsp; I put a layer of spray foam on the walls of my 10x24 addition to my cabin...(its very difficult to get the layers even).&nbsp; The can has to be 70 degrees or more...mine wasn't and expansion was decreased...and the stuff STICKS TO EVERYTHING.&nbsp; I wore the white disposable paper suit. Many sets of latex gloves, protective glasses; everything was covered except my cheeks and they were pretty much gooed by the end of the 2-3 hrs it took me to spray...Its a messy job but the addition was AIR TIGHT.&nbsp; I used fiberglass insulation to make up the remaining Rvalue.&nbsp; Also, spray foam insulation is NOT CHEAP...but it is worth it if you've got the cash.&nbsp; I'd recommend it to anyone.&nbsp; <br />Rae<br /><br />
 
Spray insulation on your van really bad idea. Because it eats away at the metal from inside and it just block drain holes leaving consideration no place to go. I am not sure for this idea.
 
Doesn't the motion of the vehicle crack the foam?
 
Here is some great stuff foam I dug out from around my windshield with a significant amount of rusted steel adhered to it. &nbsp;This metal was primed and painted before the expanding foam did what it does.<br>
036copy_zps57f419e1.jpg
<br><br>No doubt it seriously aggravated the rust situation.<br><br>The Kit in the original post might be safe, or it might be safe for as long as the drivetrain warranty lasts in a new vehicle, but 10/15 years down the road, some unfortunate soul might find the body rotting from the inside out.<br><br>I will not take the risk again. &nbsp;No expando foam, no spray foam, no more chemicals to offgas and contaminate my living/sleeping quarters. &nbsp;Even more reason why good ventilation should be considered in this lifestyle.<br><br> &nbsp;I think we are all a little to willing to surround ourselves with marketing in a can in an attempt to improve some aspect of our existence, but in reality we might be impacting our health.<br><br>The long term effects of exposure &nbsp;to the chemical cocktails, are unknown.<br><br>Just like all the pharmaceutical drugs you see advertised non stop when watching network news.<br>&nbsp;
 
I agree with wrcsixeight.<br><br>However, I do wonder if there would be a difference in both the chemical off-gassing and the rust causing effects if you were to bag it in some way, like Ricekila mentions in post #3.
 
wrc<br><br>thanks for posting that pic...its shocking...<br><br>ill keep an eye out on the spots i applied it to my van.<br><br>was the rust caused by the foam/chemical itself? or was there a water leak that got trapped mechanically by the foam?<br><br>i think its an important distinction.<br><br>i didnt see any drain holes anywhere i put the stuff so for my application i wouldnt be worried about that vector...but a chemical one has me concerned for sure.<br><br><br>also, im curious as to why you had it around your windshield? did you insulate the cab or something? im curious because i had no plans to insulate cab (other than sound deadener and a carpet) but reading that got me thinking lol....a dangerous thing.
 
the stuff you buy at home depot, lowes in the spray can is open cell it absorbs and holds water like a sponge.&nbsp; the close cell will not do this.&nbsp; I have seen guys try this with the open cell stuff with results like wrc68 points out.&nbsp; highdesertranger&nbsp;
 
Hey guys ... I am a newbie of course ... But I did talk with Great Stuff's Head Technical guy yesterday. He told me ANY chemical spray foam, closed or open cell, slow or fast rise, etc ... was NOT meant for filling wall cavities. Stating even if you perfectly control expansion, where it is not an issue, the foam will never fully cure, UNLESS you are removing all of the inside panels and spraying it on to the walls ..... This will work of course .... BUT WHY ?&nbsp; If you have already removed the rivets and metal panels, you can simply now use foam board. So the only REAL advantage as I can see it, would be if you could drill a hole and simply fill the cavity. This won't work !&nbsp; the foam won't cure properly, and the chemical reaction will eat the metal if it is not cured.<br><br>So I have been looking into maybe pouring the small styrofoam beads, like used in Bean Bag chairs. The issue with this is settling over time. Unfortunately, it appears removing those walls, and adding proper insulation is the only good way to go .... sigh.
 
The riveted metal walls are part of the structural strength of the vehicle. how do they foam closed walls in a building? Great stuff in a can is not for filling walls, but certainly not all foam is bad as some is used to fill walls.
 
Cygvan I applied the foam just as a kind of completion of my foam panels from fiberglass roof to roofline over window.<br>
IMG_08961_zps3c14e019.jpg
<br><br>Then went a little nutso with the can of great stuff while I was in the area, and have nothing but regrets for having done so<br><br>The foam Did quieten down the wind noise from that area. &nbsp;Interesting info from the great stuff technician, thanks for posting.&nbsp;<br><br>I need to address the rust. &nbsp;The white duct tape was a temporary solution for a rainless S california summer.
 
Next week I will take my Skoolie to a guy to spray 4" of spray foam insulation underneath the floor from the bottom. I'm using bats on the inside tho.
 
Glad I looked at this post, I had been considering spray foam. Guess I'll stick to the blue stuff.
 
Simran, what kind of a guy does that kind of work? I've been thinking about doing that to my van (the floor is so cold!).
 
A Spray foam contractor. I don't know if it would be possible in a van. To much stuff in the way I think.
 
Oh. Bummer. Then I guess it's back to the styrofoam insulation sheet on the floor idea.
 
1 part and 2 part are totally different products.
1 part relies on moisture etc to cure and is not really suited to this activity(Great stuff is 1 part, and mostly useless).

2 part comes as a spray(2 pressurized cylinders). or as a liquid(in 2 cans). It reacts chemically, so moisture, air exposure etc are non issues. Can distort things if too much is used, so lower expansion and doing it in small quantities instead of filling a cavity in one shot can help.
Tough enough to survive in the marine environment too. Common practice in steel boats is to paint the bare steel well with a good epoxy paint, then spray foam on top of that. This is not an activity for the faint of heart. The chemicals in use here react and stop offgassing quickly but while in use, they are very bad for you. A dust mask won't work. Organic vapour respirator will work for a very short time, but is frowned upon and needs to be full face with excellent ventilation through the van. Recommended is a supplied air system(fresh air is pumped through the respirator from elsewhere).

On the floor I'd use something stiff to create a flat surface(painted plywood) then a foam sheet such as used under floors, and commercial vapor barrier. If it's good enough in a basement it'll probably do in a van too I'd suspect. Could use pour foam too, but it'd be hard to get it level, in boats it's usually poured under existing floors. Maybe troweled in between the ribs might not be a bad idea though, exposure levels are lower with pour vs spray.


Addition:

I'm skeptical of things like Foam it Green etc. I disagree with their respirator recommendation, the industry standard is supplied air for paints or foams with these chemicals.

They're almost half the price of the stuff from DOW etc. Harder to find data on what they're using, it seems strange they're the only ones using nitrogen gas(cheap) when the others are using still more hazardous chemicals.
 
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