Planning to upsize to 24-30' conventional travel trailer - Insights Needed

[debit.servus]

Backstory:
So on Canada Day 2016 while taking a bath in one of my relatives homes in southern Alberta, I got the thought "why not get the best of both worlds in a mobile dwelling", thinking how awesome it would be to have a conventional house bathtub and full-size bedroom in a mobile rig. This thought stayed with me for the rest of the trip as I was maintaining a walkway in the van because I carry the tools, equipment, backup personal mobility, and spare parts to be prepared and not end up without a paddle on Range Road #2. That and the lack of space to fit the electronic music desk with 61 key MIDI controller, 6" studio monitors & 10" studio subwoofer along with a normal desktop computing setup.

Around the time I was near Peace River, I saw the versatility of trucks. I really liked the auxillary fuel containers people had on their truckbeds as the flatbed pickups to build a sqaure rig on top. I was weighing the pros and cons of full-time living in a full-size truck camper or 14' box truck. I really loved going 84 MPH up I-15 and the rules of the road treating the van like a passenger van, and the abilty to still go through drive thrus, but I couldn't imagine myself going full time in this van even with maximizing usable interior space to fit the aforementioned studio and tools. I was thinking that I still had a crowded van even with a loaded cargo carrier platform and the front-platform Me and my uncle Jake built (with the weight resting on the bumper, he did the welding and and I helped with everything else. Pics and how-to coming soon), and those platforms are "extensions" to the van, effectively making this van a 25' van.  

After visiting the relatives near Peace River, Alberta (super beautiful & pleasant temps in July, like the rest of Canada's Summer), and during mid-July I came back south and I got to go fishing with Peter on the Old Man River, to get to the fishing site I rode with Peter and his friend forded a river with a 4wd truck and I thought how awesome it would be to have a rig that could ford rivers.

I figured since I eventually want to go full-time and don't want to spend thousands for %20 more interior space with a truck camper or box truck, I figured I should just go for a midsize TT. Throughout my summer travels I weighted the pros and cons of mid-size conventional travel trailer full-time living, and the biggest thing for me is the increased cost. Thinking like Off-Grid 24/7, I am still saving tons of money compared to conventional housing. I still had reservations on upsizing but realized two things: I originally wanted to live in a 45' school bus conversion but had to scale that down to a van because of the acquisition, build-out and running costs; and that all my interests, desires, and love of amenities won't fit into a van. I also thought of the slippery slope of eventually upsizing to a 50' land yacht, but realized that the all my interests, the comfort amenities, full-size bed, full size bathtub, electronic music studio, kitchenette (I'm not a fan of complex cooking right now but want to retain the option to cook complex meals), tools, equipment, parts can fit in a 8' high by 8' wide by 25' box. I am also not the type of person to make stuff fill the space available, once I have a certain amount of things I don't need buy more. Like I have enough tools, enough bedding, enough small stuff. ((I can only think of two categories that need more stuff: Data management (I'm a YouTuber and have at least a hundred hours of backlog videos I plan to share), and a pressure washer to complete the cleaning category.))

After my summer travels, I thought about my next rig being a 4wd truck and mid-size travel trailer, using a quick-disconnect hitch system if there is such a thing. Since running costs are porportinate to the size of the drivetrain, I wanted just as much truck as I needed.  After some research I found people saying you could tow a 30' TT with a 3/4 ton truck without issue compared to 1/2 ton. "What the **** do they mean by half-ton, three-quarter ton and one-ton? the weight of the drivetrain? engine?" so I searched for the answer. I looked up the wikipedia articles for Dodge vans, AWD, dodge trucks, and ford vans. Turns out the Ford van is a 1-ton van, it could tow such a rig if needed. I found it's within reach if I work for it. Old but functional mid-size conventional travel trailers can be had for as low as $2500 through craigslist private sellers near San Jose. Wanting to go back to running on gas due to the cost of maintaining this Ford van I looked at 1980-1995 carburated gas pickup trucks and found very few high-ground clearance 4wd 3/4 ton gas-engined within my price range of 2000-5500 on craigslist.,


Now October & laid off from pedicabbing, I realized that unless I got the minimum-wage job, worked 20 a week every week for the next 5 months I wouldn't be able to upsize in-time for Easter 2017; the time I want to be back in Canada. So I am being realisitic and planning to work so I can get the van in my name and shoot for Summer 2017 for upsizing, and expect to pay more for a rig in-season. I really don't care at this point If a 4wd truck capable of towing a midsize TT is out of reach in acquisition or running costs I will go back to a dodge van or other brand from that era like I had before. I figure I should use the prime mover I already have for 2017 and eat the diesel cost vs trading for a 80s dodge van and modding it to run on fumes.

End backstory

OK, now that you have the backstory I am asking for advice, insights, tips and knowlege related to acquiring, re-fitting, and living full-time in a midsize conventional travel trailer.

I am not in search of the "perfect" TT as perfect is the enemy of good. I did a floorplan sketch in SketchUp to see how much space fits my criteria, drew 3 8x8' squares to fit the Amenities; thus the 24' for the bottom of the range and 30' is the tippy top of the range. Same for the perfect layout.

I am looking for a used, 24-30' midsize conventional travel trailer with all systems working and drivetrain (axles, tires, support frame, ball hitch) in working shape. Emphasis is on the lower number in the living space legnth.
1)When I have the $3k I plan to work and save for over the next 5-6 months, what should I look for under, on or in the trailer so I don't get somebody's money pit? Are there TT inspectors I could hire to look at a potential rig? If so, will they find things I won't?
2)Is is mandated to have insurance on the TT? Is your record a big factor for trailer insurance rates? Part of why I am planning on the TT/Prime mover route is the extreme insurance cost due to the collission I've had.
3)I know most conventional TTs are built cheap as s*** and my plan is to move in and save my pennies for something stronger. TT brands are not a factor in my choice.
4)I plan to work with the existing amenities with whatever I buy. How much can I expect to load into a rig, I guess all my stuff weights about 1 ton.
5)What will the MPG hit look like towing with the 2001 FORD e350 diesel van I currently have, so I can budget it into the cost of my 2017 travels?
6)How hard/easy is it to cut holes into walls of the typical sticks and staples conventional travel trailer? Are the walls strong enough to support the weight of a window A/C installed nearest to the ceiling? I plan to build a inside-sealable box in the living space with fan forced or grate ventalation for a place to store and run the generator, and another for gas cans.
7)Any tips when it comes to transferring trailer title/plates into my name? This is for California BTW.
8)How many years & miles should I expect out of a sticks-and-staples travel trailer from full-time living & traveling before it falls apart?
9)My dream life includes a mix of living in the middle of nowhere to being in cities, what free or low-cost places can I drop the trailer for the day and go places with the prime mover? How about multiple days? What do you think about putting a sign on the window in places where I'm unsure it's OK to drop a trailer that says "Please call me at [my phone number] before calling a tow truck, and I'll come move this trailer as soon as I can get back"
10)Since I am not going to be stealth with a TT any way you look at, I figure I might as well paint it with my electronic musician name and logo on all sides; for free exposure. See number 11.
11)Whatever I get is likely to have a dated interior, and I would like to give it a facelift. Being a noob when it comes to paints & primers, what is a decent brand and type of paint/primer for both inside outside that will last for two years? 

Thanks in advance.

 

[debit.servus]

Can I please have some insights?

 

[SoulRaven]

There are just so many things to address in the post.  I would just start looking at TTs in the size range, find something that might work and then run that by forum members to get opinions.

There are just so many variables involved.  Many of the questions about paint, etc. might be better addressed by googling, since I don't believe a lot of people paint inside/outside their rig, not enough to really give a solid answer.  

Also, we have had a 24' TT, look for pass-thru storage under a queen bed as that gives the best storage.  Beware that you will have some of the RV systems under benches and/or in cabinets that take up room and also the wheel well takes space.  And, the bathtub, with a 6 gallon water heater, you end up with about 6 inches, maybe 8 inches of water in a mini-tub.

I would prioritize my needs and go at them one at a time.

 

[jimindenver]

Debit

I am working on my 25 ft ultra light trailer now but I'll try to advise later. MPG are likely to be around 10 depending on how and where you are going. Trailers are a giant wall being pulled through the air. Speed is limited to the rating on the ST tires, 65 MPH. Mine has two unused bunks that are going to be my storage, the 21 ft built for two had hardly any.I don't know about the window A/C, I use a escape window for mine but not hard mounted. There are studs that a shelf could be built on.

 

[highdesertranger]

that's a lot to try to answer. let me start with a question, when you say the middle of nowhere do you mean driving off road? if you do drive off road a lot not many TT's can handle it and none of the cheaper ones that I know of. so lets go down the list.

1. see my Question.
2. you can tow a trailer without additional insurance under most policies.
3. see my question.
4. depends on the trailer, totally variable.
5. again depends, I would guess at least 2MPG less.
6. most trailers nowadays come with a roof top AC.
7. no problem.
8. see my question.
9. see my question.
10. once you advertise on your rig you are considered commercial. whole new set of rules and weigh stations come into play. however with a small little non-advertising sign you could probably get away with it.
11. slow down thunder, you don't even have a trailer yet. you might like the interior.
highdesertranger

 

[SoulRaven]

When towing, the tow vehicle assumes the liability for damage done by the trailer, but this does not cover things like collision and comprehensive or at least that has been our experience. One has to buy a separate policy if they want C/C coverage.

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

I think factor built RV trailers are a great way to go for a lot of people. Especially used ones as you can get a lot of trailer for your money, i bought a 2004 27 foot forest river for $3100 in June. All the systems work too, been living in it full time for three months now. Once I hit the road I want to sell this and convert my own cargo trailer. Just needed something ready to live in quickly for a house remodel.

Like Jimiindenver, this has the bunks I use for storage and I'd try and pick a floor plan with them for your storage needs as they are very handy and it's nice to have a space inside to store stuff. My bunks fold up and has a large access door on the side where you could fit a small kayak, or bike or even a scooter.

Paints to use on inside/outside. Think HDR answered that already. No need to put the cart before the horse. However, Home Depot Behr paints are really good for interior stuff. I don't have much experience with exterior paints so couldn't recommend one, but that's gonna also depend on whether or not you end up with an aluminum or fiberglass exterior which may or may not even need painting.

I'm not sure where you can drop one to go explore a city. I've thought about this myself. I'm guessing you might be able to find a storage on the outskirts of some cities that would let you drop it for the day for a small fee or even putting an ad on Craigslist and see if anyone would allow you to drop it in their driveway for the day for a few bucks. Other option is to rent a campground space for the night somewhere near the city and drive in to do your exploring.

As far as how long one will last, that really depends on a lot......initial quality of the brand you buy, how much maintenance the previous owners did, conditions you keep it in, etc etc etc etc etc. I have a hunch you can bandaid them back together for a long time though.

Glad to see you got out on the road this summer. Glad you're realizing it's ok to work when you need money and have something you want. It def makes working easier and what you end up with all that more rewarding. One summer on the road and you're already learning to see the bigger picture. I tip my hat to you for a job well done. Hope to see you enjoy and share many more of them with us.

 

[DrJean]

I think I'd add a "reward for calling me without calling tow truck first" line to that parking request...

They have a peace river in Canada too eh? (Florida has one...)

So middle of summer is peak season? Oh, for used... yeah I can see that. Down here it's ending the manufacturing cycle and they discount last years'.

 

[debit.servus]

...
I am looking for a used, 24-30' midsize conventional travel trailer with all systems working and drivetrain (axles, tires, support frame, ball hitch) in working shape. Emphasis is on the lower number in the living space legnth.
...
3)I know most conventional TTs are built cheap as s*** and my plan is to move in and save my pennies for something stronger. TT brands are not a factor in my choice.
...
6)How hard/easy is it to cut holes into walls of the typical sticks and staples conventional travel trailer? Are the walls strong enough to support the weight of a window A/C installed nearest to the ceiling? I plan to build a inside-sealable box in the living space with fan forced or grate ventalation for a place to store and run the generator, and another for gas cans.
....

Updates: "I am looking for a used, 24-30' midsize conventional travel trailer with all systems working and drivetrain (axles, tires, support frame, ball hitch) in working shape. Emphasis is on the lower higher number in the living space legnth. This is because most gay boyfriends are used to small apartment proportions.
3)I know most conventional TTs are built cheap as s*** and my plan is to move in and save my pennies for something stronger. Which TT brands are built stronger so I can factor that into my search. It's not a deal breaker if I can't find a used TT from one of the "stronger" brand, but if I can buy a trailer that's stronger for the price of a weaker trailer I'm up for that. Eventually I'm thinking of converting a super strong cargo trailer that'll still look like a cargo trailer after a rollover and be a rig for life.

New Entries:
12) In alberta I saw a midsize TT with a 3x8 stainless steel platform on that back that had some things in it, looked custom. Could I build an indoor/outdoor accessible storage box out of wood and not imbalance the tounge end of the TT?
13) I saw midsize conventional Class B with a massive storage cavity underneath the bed, accessible from all 3 sides on the back of the rig. This relates to 6) because having indoor/outdoor accessible storage cabinets is such a great amenity it's worth mentioning again. Having trash, recycling, genset, bicycles, gear etc. acessible inside and outside is the best of both worlds. No need to go outside in swealtering heat to start and refuel the genset for example (the box will be forced ventalated to the outside and will be airtight to the inside, a smoke detector will be inside the box and two CO detectors on the inside wall the box is installed to. Running a portable genset inside a 5 sided box is serious business!).
14) I would like to move a loveseat or 3 cushion couch inside the trailer for remodeling. How do I do that when the door is 2' wide?
15) Can I get away with leaving the TT on BLM land to go into town for half a day? I plan to spend some time in the Black Rock Desert, Wyoming trackside BLM land, and other BLM land in the western states.
16) How do US/Canadian border agents treat travelers pulling conventional TTs? Will having a nice looking and car washed prime mover and TT make me look less of a suspect? What rights do I have if they want to search the TT?
17) What will AAA do if the prime mover breaks down and the trailer needs to be moved off the shoulder? Will they send another truck to pull the trailer to a location I choose? I have AAA Premier, would it be wise to upgrade to AAA Premier RV?
18) Because of the extreme cost of keeping a modern diesel van drivetrain maintained, I plan to go back to an 80s 3/4ton DODGE van or 3/4-1ton carburated gas-engined truck when I confirm running on gasoline vapor (see my thread "Running on Fumes" for more info on gasoline vapor). How will an 80s DODGE B250 fare pulling the average midsized TT?
19) Since conventional TTs usually have little to no insulation, I am thinking of adding additional insulation in low hanging fruit parts of the TT where the walls can be removed and reinstalled. Is this a good idea?
20) Since this TT is going to be full time home, I am planning on installing a couple of small antennas and a repurposed satellite dish (see this video: ) I've seen masts that fall down sideways and come back up with mimimal effort, where to buy?

 

[hepcat]

Wow... You've got LOTS of questions... not that they aren't good ones... but most of them can only be answered by you.

The "best" travel trailer for your purposes will be either the Bigfoot 25B25RQ or the Arctic Fox. Both are built like tanks (although built VERY differently) and are true four-seasons trailers. Both will fall into the 6,000 lbs loaded range which should be easily towed by a 3/4 ton truck, and both should last a VERY long time. And both will be orders of magnitude more expensive than your budget if you can even find one to look at. I sold my ten year old Bigfoot 25B25RQ last year for about $25k. New they're over $60k now. Arctic Fox likely won't be much different.

That said, what you need to do is go and look at trailers. Look at every trailer you can find for sale, used. Look at the construction. Look at how they're assembled. Figure out what will work and what won't work. Just about every stick and staple trailer that is over three years old will be leaking and problematic. None of those will stand up to daily living for more than a couple of months, and cannot be made to because of their inexpensive construction. No trailer can be retro-insulated without stripping out the interior to the frame, and that entails gutting the trailer.

You're going to find very quickly that some of your "wants" just can't be accommodated in a travel trailer... while most of your "needs" can be, with a little imagination.

The best advice I can give you is to get out there and look. You'll get a good education pretty quickly, and after a while you'll "know" when you've found something that will work for you.

Oh, and there is no such thing as a "quick disconnect" trailer. You'll need some kind of weight equalizing, anti-sway hitch setup. I recommend Anderson hitches as the best I've used, but Reese, Equalizer, and several others also get the job done.

Good luck!

 

[debit.servus]

Wow... You've got LOTS of questions... not that they aren't good ones... but most of them can only be answered by you.

The "best" travel trailer for your purposes will be either the Bigfoot 25B25RQ or the Arctic Fox.  Both are built like tanks (although built VERY differently) and are true four-seasons trailers.  Both will fall into the 6,000 lbs loaded range which should be easily towed by a 3/4 ton truck, and both should last a VERY long time.  And both will be orders of magnitude more expensive than your budget if you can even find one to look at.  I sold my ten year old Bigfoot 25B25RQ last year for about $25k.  New they're over $60k now.  Arctic Fox likely won't be much different.

Good to know which conventional TT brands aren't cheaply built. For those prices you quote I can buy a used 24-30' enclosed cargo trailer or school bus in good to great condition and convert either into a super stong mobile dwelling when I do the labor. This is the "save my pennies for something stronger" part.

That said, what you need to do is go and look at trailers.  Look at every trailer you can find for sale, used.  Look at the construction.  Look at how they're assembled.  Figure out what will work and what won't work.   Just about every stick and staple trailer that is over three years old will be leaking and problematic.  None of those will stand up to daily living for more than a couple of months, and cannot be made to because of their inexpensive construction.   No trailer can be retro-insulated without stripping out the interior to the frame, and that entails gutting the trailer.

I thought so, the sticks and staples travel trailers that are over 3 years old will be leaking and problematic. Good to know. Living in a cheap conventional travel trailer is like living in a big cardboard box with aluminium foil and plastic wrap on the outside. Should I set aside a duct tape fund to bandage the cardboard box TT? So retro-insulating isn't worthwhile on a cheap conventional travel trailer nor retrofitting to last longer.

The best advice I can give you is to get out there and look.  You'll get a good education pretty quickly, and after a while you'll "know" when you've found something that will work for you.

I'll start looking at trailers when I have the $3k saved.

Oh, and there is no such thing as a "quick disconnect" trailer. You'll need some kind of weight equalizing, anti-sway hitch setup. I recommend Anderson hitches as the best I've used, but Reese, Equalizer, and several others also get the job done.

Good luck!

No "quick disconnect" trailer hitch? OK.

 

[highdesertranger]

the van you have now is a more capable tow vehicle then the others you mentioned. your typical travel trailer with aluminum siding stapled to 2x2 wood will not have a long life if you off road it a lot. since the Black Rock Desert has one paved road, can't see how you will pull that off. also driving off road, 2 spares should be carried for both the trailer and the tow vehicle. speed off road should be 30mph max(some roads much less) or you will only see one trip from your trailer. mind you there are some trailers that can handle off highway use, but you won't find one for 3k. highdesertranger

 

[jimindenver]

Hey now. My ultra cheap Ultra lite trailer is 6 years old and is certainly not a pavement queen. Other than the stickers needing replaced, it's doing just fine. You take care of them, they take care of you. Also our concepts of off road differ. off road speeds for me are 0 to slightly more than 0 as we crawl over obstacles in 4x4 low.

 

[highdesertranger]

hey Jim that's why it has lasted 6 years. lol. the slower you go the longer they will last. highdesertranger

 

[Stargazer]

OP stated he has stuff weighing a ton -- or 2,000 lbs! I have owned six RV's (5 were TT's, 16-35 feet) in my lifetime and the maximum load any of them would carry was around 1,200 lbs. This is based on axle carrying capacity, tires, and frame.

So Debit, look at those weight load ratings!! An overloaded TT is not something you want to deal with. It's dangerous and illegal. Manufacturers now place stickers inside cabinets that say something like filling all the empty storage space may overload your trailer.

As for manufacturers and quality, most have low to high end models. Just like cars, low end cheap in price and quality, high end better made and higher price.

Good Luck and Best Wishes.

 

[hepcat]

I'll start looking at trailers when I have the $3k saved.

No "quick disconnect" trailer hitch? OK.

Start looking now.  You may not be able to buy, but you'll be educated on what trailers look like, their construction, what to expect of trailers of various construction techniques as they age, and what you want and don't want.  You'll also be able to determine what kinds of things CAN reasonably done to various trailers in the way of mods... and what isn't reasonable. Having that foreknowledge will be useful when you do have cash in hand.

THEN when you do have cash in hand you'll be able to find what you want more quickly.  The more you look, the more you learn, and the better informed you'll be when it comes time to buy.

None of the weight-distribution/anti-sway hitches take more than about 10 mins tops to hitch and unhitch.  It's not a big deal, but they're necessary.

 

[jimindenver]

Here are a few things. A low cargo capacity means a weaker frame. The CCC of my Ameri-lite is 3000 pounds. Get one with a real wood floor, foam core will crush under full time use. Last thing is the simpler it is the less there is to break down and easier to build.

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

Even though you don't have the money saved up yet, I'd also 2nd that you start looking now. Just going to a dealer and walking around the lot looking at all the different ones, you'll start to get a good feel for what is what.

When you are ready to buy, I'd again go to some dealer lots. Not sure what the market in California is like, but in New England, lots of the dealers will have anywhere from 2 to a dozen trailers they won't put on their lot because they are too old that were trade ins on new units. They wholesale them really cheap to anyone that wants them. Cash only sale, no warranty, etc.

I've been in a 2004 Forest River (what i'd consider a lower end travel trailer) for four months now. Much to my surprise every single thing in the trailer works, has zero leaks....after a dozen plus torrential downpours, three snowstorms, still have about 4 inches of snow on the roof, and a nor'easter in the forecast. Knock on wood I'll still be leak free after the winters over. Furnace has kept me good and warm and we've gone down to -12 one night. Not sure how it would hold up if I were traveling with it every few weeks. Don't want to find out either, plan on doing a cargo trailer conversion in the spring. But with new tires and bearings I think it would probably hold up a few more years with no real issues.

If you're going to be towing it in a 2wd Van, i'm thinking you won't be able to go anywhere that will be beyond the trailer's off road capability. Even still, go slow, keep an eye on everything and you should be ok.

 

[debit.servus]

OP stated he has stuff weighing a ton -- or 2,000 lbs!  I have owned six RV's (5 were TT's, 16-35 feet) in my lifetime and the maximum load any of them would carry was around 1,200 lbs.  This is based on axle carrying capacity, tires, and frame.

So Debit, look at those weight load ratings!!  An overloaded TT is not something you want to deal with.  It's dangerous and illegal.  Manufacturers now place stickers inside cabinets that say something like filling all the empty storage space may overload your trailer.

As for manufacturers and quality, most have low to high end models.  Just like cars, low end cheap in price and quality, high end better made and higher price.

Good Luck and Best Wishes.

The 2,000 lbs carrying weight number is a highball guesstimate. There are better things to do with my time than to watch moving weight to gain fractions of an MPG and save a few cents on wear and tear. Now that doesn't mean I'm OK with long-term overloading and throwing caution to the wind. I just don't like chasing dimishing returns.

Start looking now.  You may not be able to buy, but you'll be educated on what trailers look like, their construction, what to expect of trailers of various construction techniques as they age, and what you want and don't want.  You'll also be able to determine what kinds of things CAN reasonably done to various trailers in the way of mods... and what isn't reasonable.   Having that foreknowledge will be useful when you do have cash in hand.

THEN when you do have cash in hand you'll be able to find what you want more quickly.  The more you look, the more you learn, and the better informed you'll be when it comes time to buy.

None of the weight-distribution/anti-sway hitches take more than about 10 mins tops to hitch and unhitch.  It's not a big deal, but they're necessary.

Here are a few things. A low cargo capacity means a weaker frame. The CCC of my Ameri-lite is 3000 pounds. Get one with a real wood floor, foam core will crush under full time use. Last thing is the simpler it is the less there is to break down and easier to build.

Even though you don't have the money saved up yet, I'd also 2nd that you start looking now.  Just going to a dealer and walking around the lot looking at all the different ones, you'll start to get a good feel for what is what.  

When you are ready to buy, I'd again go to some dealer lots.  Not sure what the market in California is like, but in New England, lots of the dealers will have anywhere from 2 to a dozen trailers they won't put on their lot because they are too old that were trade ins on new units. They wholesale them really cheap to anyone that wants them.  Cash only sale, no warranty, etc. 

Not surprising to me, cheap conventional TTs have cheap frames and foam core subfloors. Will put "real wood floor" & "Minimum 2,000 pound Cargo Carrying Capacity" on my checklist.

The simpler it is the less there is to break down and easier to build, to a certain point. Less is More to a Certain Point, then Less is Less.

Thanks, I'll look to see if the travel trailer dealerships near me have low-end used midsize TTs under $5K to look inside and to gain an idea of what is feasable/infeasable.

I've been in a 2004 Forest River (what i'd consider a lower end travel trailer) for four months now.  Much to my surprise every single thing in the trailer works, has zero leaks....after a dozen plus torrential downpours, three snowstorms, still have about 4 inches of snow on the roof, and a nor'easter in the forecast.  Knock on wood I'll still be leak free after the winters over.  Furnace has kept me good and warm and we've gone down to -12 one night. Not sure how it would hold up if I were traveling with it every few weeks.  Don't want to find out either, plan on doing a cargo trailer conversion in the spring.   But with new tires and bearings I think it would probably hold up a few more years with no real issues.    

If you're going to be towing it in a 2wd Van, i'm thinking you won't be able to go anywhere that will be beyond the trailer's off road capability.  Even still, go slow, keep an eye on everything and you should be ok.

Yes if I had the money I would buy a good to great condition used 24-30' enclosed cargo trailer and convert the inside of it to become a rig for life (or until it has a collission that totals the trailer). Speaking of which, how much would it costs to buy said used cargo trailer with a super-strong steel body that will still look like a cargo trailer after a rollover? Because I already have most of the appliances it might be worth springing for a midsize cargo trailer if I can find one for less than a couple thou$and more.

It would be really cool to have a rig that can support 3 feet of snow on the roof if I decide to spend a winter with relatives in Ontario, and yes I know any conventional TT roof would collapse with that amount of snow on the roof.

 

[DannyB1954]

I just bought a toy hauler travel trailer. A keystone Hobbi 220. I had been spending the previous month looking at cargo trailers. I wanted one wide enough for a sideways bed, so say 7' x 12 or 14 long. The width of the wheels for a 8' wide is the same as a 7' wide. So If I have to keep the tires in my lane regardless, might as well look at the 8' wides as well.

Good used trailers hold their value, so might as well buy new. These suckers are pretty pricey. By the time I would have a nice rig, (stove, Reefer, heater,(vented), water heater, water tanks etc. we are talking big bucks. I have motorcycles and an ATV, so I wanted the rig to be dual purpose, a cargo box that I could live in.

I seen an add for a reasonably priced short toy hauler and went to go take a look. It was crap. The salesman said we took in another used unit the other day, (have yet to advertize it). We went for a look see. It was nice! So, I ended up with a camper that I can also use as a cargo trailer. About the only things that don't move out of the way for cargo is the bathroom, refrigerator, pantry and kitchen. I got kinda the opposite of what I was looking for, but at the same time, the same exact thing.  It has an aluminium frame and fiberglass body. I don't have pics yet. But google Keystone Hobbi 220 and that is how it looks. Cargo capacity is about 2,600 lbs. fresh water 50, grey 30 and black 30.