Cargo trailer + truck advice

[overlandsiberia]

I think I will not go with the van option, because I learned it's going to be hard to buy the adequate size and insure it as non-commercial at the same time, plus my situation has complicating factors in term of address/locations, as I've been multi state and multi country based full timer traveler for a long time.
Thinking of getting a truck with a cargo/utility trailer. Trucks seem to be much easier to find than vans too, and lots of options on cargo trailers.

I need something that can handle a bit of moderate off road, like getting into typical boondocking sites, but not like going for many miles on dirt roads. (not looking for off road RV trailers, these are very expensive, have interior features I do not need, and mostly too small)
What would I look for in cargo trailer, stuff like suspension, axles, and any brand recommendations?

Also, are trucks usually easy to insure under personal policy? Insurance agents told me to get less powerful truck for that. Any experiences with that? I specifically wonder if V8 trucks are getting automatically classified as commercial by insurance companies.

 

[bullfrog !]

If you go to tttnt.com and search their cargo trailer forum you will find lots of information. There have been several that use a full size 1/2 ton truck with a topper for storage that pull a small cargo trailer (usually less than 6’x 12’) for a living space. Weight is a concern as most full timers have lots of stuff. Keep in mind steel is easier to maintain than aluminum. Cheap cargo.trailers usually have or develop water leaks and require rebuilding which is why many start from scratch and build their own or buy expensive small fiberglass campers. Most small trucks are not capable of towing a trailer 18’ or over while full timing in my opinion. I have never had a problem insuring a pickup truck of any engine size. I have had problems towing with too small a truck and not having proper working trailer breaks. I currently occasionally tow a 24’ trailer with a 3/4 ton Suburban and wish I had a smaller trailer while towing and a larger trailer while parked! Lol!!!

 

[maki2]

A friend who wanted to buy a cargo trailer took me along to a trailer dealer to help him make his final decision between a few different brands. I might be a female but I am a real life Rosie the Riveter so judging the quality of travel trailer construction was within my skill set.

The noticeable difference I saw was in the quality of the roofs and sidewalk paneling and how securely they attached. A lot of them were flexing too much from too thin of material combined with poor attachment to too few structural upright supports. There was one obvious stand out in the group. I told him “but this one”. Twenty years later it is still in fine condition.

He had purchased a second used trailer years later while out of town to bring back some cargo as it was cheaper to go that way than to ship it. A few years later the roof skin of that “ bargain priced” used, metal cargo trailer delaminated from the structure and caved in under a snow load.

Do pay attention to the dimensions of the steel frame under it. On a smaller trailers for longevity It should be made of at least 2”x3” steel tubing for good load bearing weight on rough roads. There should be no floppy “oil canning” of the sides when hand pressure is applied to the center of panels. If you are going to be in snow country the roof structure should have plenty of cross beams and not be of overly thin metal.

Just pay attention to these things. Go on kick the tires excursions to several dealers with different makes. That way you will soon develop an educated eye for the quality of construction.

 

[overlandsiberia]

I'm not going to be in the snow, so snow loads aren't that big of a deal, also I plan to own it for 1-2 years max then resell, after that I will be fully relocated overseas.

Another thing I won't have ability to travel to different dealers, I have too much going on right now, and likely will need to arrange everything remotely, come and tow away or even have it shipped.
That's why looking for reputable manufacturers. And things I can confirm with a dealer over the phone.
I want to buy brand new (unless it's all aluminum, would buy a used one then, they're more expensive new).

My understanding is it's better to get tandem axle?
So that I won't have to worry about overloading and tandem is probably better off road too?
I plan to get 6x12 max, may be 5x8.

I really would like to get all-aluminum trailer if possible, without structural wood product sheathing, I'm allergic to glue based wood products.

 

[overlandsiberia]

If you go to tttnt.com and search their cargo trailer forum you will find lots of information. There have been several that use a full size 1/2 ton truck with a topper for storage that pull a small cargo trailer (usually less than 6’x 12’) for a living space. Weight is a concern as most full timers have lots of stuff. Keep in mind steel is easier to maintain than aluminum. Cheap cargo.trailers usually have or develop water leaks and require rebuilding which is why many start from scratch and build their own or buy expensive small fiberglass campers. Most small trucks are not capable of towing a trailer 18’ or over while full timing in my opinion. I have never had a problem insuring a pickup truck of any engine size. I have had problems towing with too small a truck and not having proper working trailer breaks. I currently occasionally tow a 24’ trailer with a 3/4 ton Suburban and wish I had a smaller trailer while towing and a larger trailer while parked! Lol!!!

Trailers length I'm looking for would be 12 max, likely less.
12 feet tandem axle usually weight 2K lbs max, likely less, and if I get all-aluminum it's going to be light. My payload for the trailer isn't likely to exceed 1.5-2K lbs (I'd want tandem axles, I think, they can take a lot of payload up to 7K but I won't load anything near that). Let's say under circumstances payload becomes 3K lbs.
That's under 4-5K combined trailer weight. Should be within the towing capacity of most trucks.
Then I plan to have a lightweight no-build camper shell on top of the truck.
But I don't plan to store heavy stuff in the truck bed, may be just sleep on my camping cot in it and have a 40 gal water tank, out of heavy items, this is overall no-build situation, all this should be well under the truck payload rating and total GCVWR with a loaded trailer.

My main concern is what to look for under the trailer other than tandem axles, suspension, wheels, because of off road use. I have zero experience with these matters.

 

[bullfrog !]

My only concerns would be wind resistance of the trailer. A 6’ wide and 6’ tall trailer will most likely be larger than the profile of the truck if pulling with a smaller truck. Yes tandem axles are in my opinion the way to go.

 

[overlandsiberia]

My only concerns would be wind resistance of the trailer. A 6’ wide and 6’ tall trailer will most likely be larger than the profile of the truck.

Yeah, but is your concern gas mileage? Or hitting branches also? I full timed in almost 12' tall class C motorhome for a while, after that 7 feet tall trailer is going to be nothing.
Trailers can take some abuse from small branches, this can be buffed off, it's not like a motorhome where a branch takes out your A/C and decals and wind tries to flip you over.
I'm going to put a small stand-up camper shell on this will add to the profile too, something got to give, I guess, comfort versus wind resistance/best gas mileage.
At least a few cargo trailers have aerodynamic shape.

 

[tx2sturgis]

(For this discussion I am referring to typical enclosed cargo trailers, not flatbed or car hauler types of trailers)

For the OP situation (half ton or 3/4 ton truck, a sleeper in the truck shell, 1500-2000 pound payloads, and future migration elsewhere) I recommend a single axle trailer, likely a 6x12 size. Electric brakes on the single axle can be ordered or upfitted later. (tandem axle trailers always have electric brakes installed from the factory) Electric brakes on trailers require some type of brake controller in the tow vehicle, but most pickup trucks either are factory equipped or the controller can be added.

Pickup truck engine size V-6 or V-8, has no bearing on commercial vs private insurance, but it DOES make a big difference in pulling a trailer, and a tandem axle trailer EMPTY will weigh double, or almost THREE times what a single axle trailer weighs empty. That means a half ton or 3/4 ton pickup pulling a tandem axle trailer might be nearly half its trailer capacity before you load anything in the trailer. You really need a V-8, but a stout V-6 will do the job IF you are pulling a single axle trailer and IF you are not gonna be in the mountains.

Tandem axle trailers nearly always are built with a LOWER ground clearance, (often using a drop axle) so the capabilities on rough off-pavement trails are greatly diminished compared to a higher ground clearance single axle trailer with a straight axle. (Axle lift kits can be added to most tandem axle trailers, but this raises the center of gravity)

Also, most tandem axle trailers are 7 or 8 feet wide, causing more wind resistance, a drop in fuel mileage, and possibly reduced visibility using your typical rear view truck mirrors. Of course, towing mirrors can be added to the pickup if needed. Some pickups already have extendable towing mirrors from the factory.

Obviously if you are intending to load up an ATV, sideXside, etc, then a tandem axle would be better when hauling higher amounts of weight.

Another consideration would be that most small enclosed cargo trailers have a ramp door at the rear. Sometimes you can find one (or special order one) with the 'barn doors' at the back, if you prefer those. Barn doors are easier to find on single axle trailers, although they can be ordered on any tandem axle trailer if you really don't want a ramp door.

In Texas, where I live, any utility or cargo trailer under 4500 GVW does not require annual inspections nor does it require a vehicle title. This can save some money and time. Check these factors in the state where you will be registering your trailer.

 

[overlandsiberia]

(For this discussion I am referring to typical enclosed cargo trailers, not flatbed or car hauler types of trailers)

For the OP situation (half ton or 3/4 ton truck, a sleeper in the truck shell, 1500-2000 pound payloads, and future migration elsewhere) I recommend a single axle trailer, likely a 6x12 size. Electric brakes on the single axle can be ordered or upfitted later. (tandem axle trailers always have electric brakes installed from the factory) Electric brakes on trailers require some type of brake controller in the tow vehicle, but most pickup trucks either are factory equipped or the controller can be added.

Let me ask you: aren't tandem axles helpful with not to sink and getting stuck out there?
There're more surface (though there's more weight too but not that much more). I might not be able to buy 4x4 truck, not sure yet.
I was saved by dually tires in 4x2 setup a few times, I'm pretty sure on that.
Also if a single axle/wheel on it fails, I still have the 2nd axle to get out.
For a female traveling alone in remote location safety and being able to get out/not stuck is one key consideration.

With single axle trailer weighting slightly under 1000 lbs, their GVWR is often under 3000lbs (sometimes 2000lbs!), so I might end up running close or over to GVWR, which I really don't like doing. Stuff adds up. I might want to put sports equipment in the trailer actually and that's going to weight, like barbell with weights, I want to a have options.

Yeah, brakes are an important consideration, I will think about it.

Pickup truck engine size V-6 or V-8, has no bearing on commercial vs private insurance, but it DOES make a big difference in pulling a trailer, and a tandem axle trailer EMPTY will weigh double, or almost THREE times what a single axle trailer weighs empty. That means a half ton or 3/4 ton pickup pulling a tandem axle trailer might be nearly half its trailer capacity before you load anything in the trailer. You really need a V-8, but a stout V-6 will do the job IF you are pulling a single axle trailer and IF you are not gonna be in the mountains.

Tandem axles I looked at weight around 2000lbs( about twice over single axle).
I want a truck with over 5000lbs towing capacity, as I might tow other stuff at times with it like a vehicle on a dolly, so it can easily tow tandem axle loaded as well. Lots of trucks have 5000-7000lbs towing capacity. I am going to be in the mountains a lot. I'm a careful driver and slow on uphill, never rush when towing. V8 I don't mind V8 of course, insurance told me to avoid anything over 250/2500 to avoid being hit with commercial (I have extra complicated insurance situation due to my residency, LLC owing vehicles, etc)

Tandem axle trailers nearly always are built with a LOWER ground clearance, (often using a drop axle) so the capabilities on rough off-pavement trails are greatly diminished compared to a higher ground clearance single axle trailer with a straight axle. (Axle lift kits can be added to most tandem axle trailers, but this raises the center of gravity)

Clearance is a big consideration. I notice cargo trailer dealers never state ground clearance.
I do not want to do axle lift, I want to minimize building and modifications efforts, this is for one more quick year of camping before international relocation, basically.

Also, most tandem axle trailers are 7 or 8 feet wide, causing more wind resistance, a drop in fuel mileage, and possibly reduced visibility using your typical rear view truck mirrors. Of course, towing mirrors can be added to the pickup if needed. Some pickups already have extendable towing mirrors from the factory.

I'm seeing 6 feet wide available, though. Plus you can have it custom built.
After fulltime boondocking in my class C all over, I can handle 7 feet width like it's nothing ) but yeah I want 6 feet wide max.
Cameras make maneuvering no big deal with bigger vehicles. I'm used to driving class C which is a big box, plus sometimes towing stuff with it.

Obviously if you are intending to load up an ATV, sideXside, etc, then a tandem axle would be better when hauling higher amounts of weight.

No no ATV, but generator, 40lbs water tank, barbell sport equipment possibly, extra fuel, propane tanks, stuff adds up, plus emergency stuff like construction materials, never know. I like to have extra room for loading. Like more water for long boondocks.

Another consideration would be that most small enclosed cargo trailers have a ramp door at the rear. Sometimes you can find one (or special order one) with the 'barn doors' at the back, if you prefer those. Barn doors are easier to find on single axle trailers, although they can be ordered on any tandem axle trailer if you really don't want a ramp door.

Yes, I'd want barn door.

In Texas, where I live, any utility or cargo trailer under 4500 GVW does not require annual inspections nor does it require a vehicle title. This can save some money and time. Check these factors in the state where you will be registering your trailer.

I'm visiting TX right now, I wonder actually if I could get TX title as out of stater here because I do have a temporary residential address here. I have very complex residency situation being international full timer with LLCs and ties to multiple states.

 

[overlandsiberia]

By the way, any known brands with higher clearance? Clearance is a big, big deal.
What is the typical clearance of single and tandle axle utility trailers? No dealers seem to list theirs.
Is it going to be similar to truck clearance?

 

[overlandsiberia]

Some examples of small trailers on tandem axles, they look like they got the same clearance as single axle, may be in small trailers it doesn't affect clearance. It seems like some companies that build custom allow to chose straight over drop axles at no extra charge.
The first one two below list non-drop axles as default. Basically, should discuss this upfront.
It see some regular trailers advertise 12-14" ground clearance, torsion axles, and this is much better than F-150 clearance.

https://carmate-trailers.com/traile...stom-cargo-flat-front-2/5-wide-single-tandem/https://americantrailerpros.com/product/colonys-rough-tough-tandem-5x8-cargo-trailer-481/https://www.cargoenclosedtrailer.com/2021-mirage-xcel-6x10-tandem-axle-cargo-trailer-XlAi.html

 

[tx2sturgis]

All over the map here. Which is fine but we need to tighten up the focus a bit.

You can upfit or special order single axle trailers with a 5200# Dexter single axle with brakes. If you want. That's what I did on one of my trailers that carries a 3400 pound payload. It has big beefy wheels and tires and lots of ground clearance. Its a straight axle (some camber is included). These are not much heavier than the 3500# axles. I work with suppliers who let me configure the hardware and then I worry about the licensing and registration.

Drop axles reduce ground clearance. ALOT. No getting around that. And most tandem axle enclosed trailers have drop axles, but of course you can order them with straight axles. The trailer will usually sit a bit higher with straight axles, although this is not always the case, it depends on the frame and fender configuration and how low the spring hangers are.

Torsion axles are fine with overland type trailering BUT only on single axle trailers. They tend to fail when used extensively off road in a tandem configuration. For, on-road ONLY, tandem torsion axles are very smooth riding. They are just not as tough and long lasting as a normal, old school pair of straight axles.

On the weight issue: Tandem axle trailers always weigh a lot more than single axle trailers not only because of the extra axle and two more tires, but also because the frame is a LOT thicker and heavier then the lightweight frame used on a single axle.

Again, if you plan to haul some heavy cargo, by all means, choose a beefy tandem axle. But as I read your intro post, I got the impression you need to stay tight, light, and agile. A single axle trailer will give you that.

 

[overlandsiberia]

All over the map here. Which is fine but we need to tighten up the focus a bit.

You can upfit or special order single axle trailers with a 5200# Dexter single axle with brakes. If you want. That's what I did on one of my trailers that carries a 3400 pound payload. It has big beefy wheels and tires and lots of ground clearance. Its a straight axle (some camber is included). These are not much heavier than the 3500# axles. I work with suppliers who let me configure the hardware and then I worry about the licensing and registration.

Drop axles reduce ground clearance. ALOT. No getting around that. And most tandem axle enclosed trailers have drop axles, but of course you can order them with straight axles. The trailer will usually sit a bit higher with straight axles, although this is not always the case, it depends on the frame and fender configuration and how low the spring hangers are.

Torsion axles are fine with overland type trailering BUT only on single axle trailers. They tend to fail when used extensively off road in a tandem configuration. For, on-road ONLY, tandem torsion axles are very smooth riding. They are just not as tough and long lasting as a normal, old school pair of straight axles.

On the weight issue: Tandem axle trailers always weigh a lot more than single axle trailers not only because of the extra axle and two more tires, but also because the frame is a LOT thicker and heavier then the lightweight frame used on a single axle.

Again, if you plan to haul some heavy cargo, by all means, choose a beefy tandem axle. But as I read your intro post, I got the impression you need to stay tight, light, and agile. A single axle trailer will give you that.

I don't need any special super high clearance because I likely won't be getting any extra high lifted truck or anything, just regular F-150 most likely.
Aren't basic trailers already have clearance matching or higher than F-150? I don't need more for this trip.
When I look it up it says trailers get 12-14" clearance for some dealers, is it not how they are?
F-150 has less than that.
I see tandem axles with non-drop ones on the models I look at, this is good enough for me.

Not looking for anything special, just basic stuff. I'm not looking to build real overland trailer (I'd rather buy existing off-road "expedition" models built just for that if I wanted to do real offroading and I'd be forcused on lifted 4x4 truck only but it's not my situation now), just a basic cheaper cargo trailer that can get into campsites after traveling a couple of miles on a gravel or decent dirt road. No real off-roading here.
But a few campsites do have a steep drop off to get into even off a good gravel road.

Yes, thicker frame for tandem axles is exactly what I want, sturdier build. I do not trust any light builds that much.

Towing capacity is not an issue, may be I just buy 7K towing weight truck and call it a day.
I'm not trying to do anything "light" at all, I like high towing capacity and flexibility, and tow my car including on a autotransport or dolly when I want to, autotransport weights over 2000K alone.

I'll try to get plain straight axles, may be torsion if no other choice and I like the trailer otherwise and will definitely avoid drop axles. I plan to use the trailer for a year, I'm moving countries then.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Ok, well it sounds like maybe you are needing a tandem axle trailer after all, and as always, its 100% your choice, because only you know what you need and want.

Good luck and please be cautious and careful. We have a lot of knowledgeable members here who can provide a wealth of information, so feel free to keep asking these tough questions.

 

[RonDean]

I don't need any special super high clearance because I likely won't be getting any extra high lifted truck or anything, just regular F-150 most likely.
Aren't basic trailers already have clearance matching or higher than F-150? I don't need more for this trip.
When I look it up it says trailers get 12-14" clearance for some dealers, is it not how they are?
F-150 has less than that.
I see tandem axles with non-drop ones on the models I look at, this is good enough for me.

Not looking for anything special, just basic stuff. I'm not looking to build real overland trailer (I'd rather buy existing off-road "expedition" models built just for that if I wanted to do real offroading and I'd be forcused on lifted 4x4 truck only but it's not my situation now), just a basic cheaper cargo trailer that can get into campsites after traveling a couple of miles on a gravel or decent dirt road. No real off-roading here.
But a few campsites do have a steep drop off to get into even off a good gravel road.

Yes, thicker frame for tandem axles is exactly what I want, sturdier build. I do not trust any light builds that much.

Towing capacity is not an issue, may be I just buy 7K towing weight truck and call it a day.
I'm not trying to do anything "light" at all, I like high towing capacity and flexibility, and tow my car including on a autotransport or dolly when I want to, autotransport weights over 2000K alone.

I'll try to get plain straight axles, may be torsion if no other choice and I like the trailer otherwise and will definitely avoid drop axles. I plan to use the trailer for a year, I'm moving countries then.

I have a F150 and have found it is underpowered for most camper trailer and load conditions. That is why I bought a camper van and now have the f150 for sale. Just do your research before making a decision.

 

[Malamute]

I have a F150 and have found it is underpowered for most camper trailer and load conditions. That is why I bought a camper van and now have the f150 for sale. Just do your research before making a decision.

Without more details on what motor and differential gears your F-150 has, its not giving much useful information to say "an F-150 is underpowdered". Theres too may possible variables to make a blanket statement. A 6 cyl and tall diff gears (like around 3.00 ratio) and higher transmission gear ratios wont pull much, even a larger V-8 may not pull well with tall gears. Get down to 4.10 gears and even a smaller motor may pull well, but will be running higher rpms on the highway. Many F-150s have the same motors as many F-250s, the F-250s generally have lower diff gears and possibly different transmission gear ratios.

Just saying, its not as simple as "An F-150 will or wont do xxx".

 

[RonDean]

Without more details on what motor and differential gears your F-150 has, its not giving much useful information to say "an F-150 is underpowdered". Theres too may possible variables to make a blanket statement. A 6 cyl and tall diff gears (like around 3.00 ratio) and higher transmission gear ratios wont pull much, even a larger V-8 may not pull well with tall gears. Get down to 4.10 gears and even a smaller motor may pull well, but will be running higher rpms on the highway. Many F-150s have the same motors as many F-250s, the F-250s generally have lower diff gears and possibly different transmission gear ratios.

Just saying, its not as simple as "An F-150 will or wont do xxx".

Correct. MY F-150 could not carry any reasonable (to me) truck campers or tow my existing trailer up steep grades without struggling. All I suggested is that overland should do some research before deciding an F-150 would work for him/her. In MY experience a larger truck is usually better for most trailers.

 

[bullfrog !]

The reason I suggest someone try out combinations by renting or borrowing truck and trailer combinations is because there are so many variables. Talking directly with owners by joining clubs that have get togethers like Escapees Boot Camp events or even the RTR is an excellent way also. Yes all these cost a small amount compared to the cost of the amount you will spend if you make a poor choice so it is very much worth it.

 

[Malamute]

Correct. MY F-150 could not carry any reasonable (to me) truck campers or tow my existing trailer up steep grades without struggling. All I suggested is that overland should do some research before deciding an F-150 would work for him/her. In MY experience a larger truck is usually better for most trailers.

I agree most heavier duty trucks or vans or whatever would be better suited for towing, though the devil is in the details. If a 150 is set up with a towing package, it may be fine, and conversely, a light duty F-250 thats not set up with towing package or suitable diff gears/motor/trans may not be up to it. The details are the difficult part for people not familiar with such things. Seeking info from forums dedicated to the particular makes or forums oriented towards towing campers may yield info in searches, or asking here if the details of a prospective individual vehicle can be ascertained. The VIN number may give the info on motor, trans, differential gearing, and if set up with towing package. For the prospective buyer, just having a hitch isnt what a towing package is from the factory, its generally a heavier duty radiator, transmission cooler, suspension, brakes, sometimes transmission and diff gearing etc as well as having a factory installed wiring and plug for trailer hookups rather than sometimes flaky wiring installs by individuals.

A couple times Ive taken vehicles for test drives and went to my mechanic at the time, he looked around under the hood then put it up on the rack for a few minutes and told me several things it had problems with, so I didnt buy them.

I had an early 80s F-250 4wd (light duty without full floater axles) that had a 302 v8 and taller (3.55) diff gears, it got pretty good fuel mileage but wasnt too good at towing or running up long grades at highway speed. Another early 80s F-250 4wd had a 460 and 4.10 gears and would pass about anything but a gas station. Both had 4 speed manual transmissions. The 302 got about 16 mpg, the 460 about 7 mpg loaded or not. Fully loaded truck and trailer @ 12,500 lbs gross weight had uphill passing power in the CO mountains with the 460, empty the 302 wouldnt have that sort of passing power in the same place. Newer ones with fuel injection help quite a lot in power and fuel economy for a given motor size, but the details can still matter for towing practicality.

 

[rruff]

Correct. MY F-150 could not carry any reasonable (to me) truck campers or tow my existing trailer up steep grades without struggling.

Year, engine, transmission? Define "struggling"...

I had a pretty massive stand-up camper on a '84 Toyota PU for awhile... with two people's total worldly belongings. That was a 110hp engine, and even then I didn't hold up traffic if I kept the rpms up. I know someone who has the same truck, year, engine etc as my Tundra, and he claims it struggles on mountain passes with a camper. I think he's delusional. The engine isn't struggling just because it's running 4k rpm... doesn't hurt it a bit. Naturally aspirated gas engines need rpm to make power, and in this case that's 390hp.

Most F150s have had a >300hp engine for a long time.