M going 2 order new Promaster

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I noticed San Diego is putting size limitations on vehicle parking. The one that stuck out to me was the 7 1/2 foot high. I imagine other cities may adopt similar rules eventually, anyway something to consider when it comes to roof racks!
Actually this is not correct. That thread your getting this from on this site is about the Port of San Diego not to be confused with the City of San Diego. 2 separate legal entities. The Port Authority runs the port area around San Diego Bay and that is where the "new rules" pertain. The park referenced in that thread is in the bay part of the Port of San Diego authority jurisdiction. OP prolly should of pointed this out and made it clear in their thread and I at first was going to jump in and provide that clarification but decided nah, I'm not going to as often the time I try to positively contribute something on this site on someone elses thread its Mod deleted,etc. So I just let peeps do believe wha ever they want; my life worx for me; have learned on this site to stay in my own threads; mind my own business and only post frivolous comments anywhere else and I'm not interested in what/how anyone else lives their life anyway. Besides, when I'm in San Diego I don't hang out by the Bay anyway so I don't care what rules the Port Authority make there. :LOL::cool:
 
New Promaster is Reality. Pikt it up 2day. Didn’t order & no waiting 6 months……..BDDED0B7-AAB3-44B4-A627-B1D95D6620B8.jpeg

0517661C-D056-4824-8C9D-ADC700D492C5.jpeg
At Kamp Koon. Will get going on roof rack, windows, vent & trailer hitch. Then will take my time making it livable as I haven’t settled on an interior layout.
intjonny boi luzsha baybee alway have alway will
 
I'm glad to see that you went with the high roof...or is that mid-roof? Either way it gives you more space inside!
Yeah I guess it’s both. It’s called High Roof. But since they’ve now come out with the “super high roof” I guess it’s mid- roof, too.
The high roof; 77” interior height; is only 500$ more so just plain nutso not to go with it.
 
Soooo;
This cargo van lacked some things I’ll want to add and I’m in the process of equipment selection research.
1- windows. Awning type on each side; rear quarter and on the back doors. 90% settled on which ones I’ll purchase & from whom.
Do you plan to install the windows yourself? I'm interested in knowing which ones you choose, too.
 
Do you plan to install the windows yourself? I'm interested in knowing which ones you choose, too.
I plan on self installation. Seems pretty simple: boiling away the sap; in short it’s cut a hole & glue in place. Literally cut & paste.

I’m going with awning windows in the rear cargo doors and half slider bunks on the rear qwarter sides; changed my mind from awnings on the sides when my brain kikt in realizing it would be only a matter of time b4 I left the passenger side awning open and opened the side sliding door breaking said awning.

Also; I have nixed the roof vent as the 4 windows and my sea breeze can provide ample ventilation & circulation. The roof to me is the 2nd story party deck and I remember years back when a gal was dancing on my boat foredeck and she fell; one of her legs went all the way thru the forward cabin vent. Bruised her leg pretty good frum knee to crotch…….(isn’t booze wonderful department)

INTJohn
 
I plan on self installation.... Literally cut & paste.

I’m going with awning windows in the rear cargo doors and half slider bunks on the rear qwarter sides; changed my mind from awnings on the sides when my brain kikt in realizing it would be only a matter of time b4 I left the passenger side awning open and opened the side sliding door breaking said awning.
..
Looks simple to me, too, but I don't think I can bring myself to do it. One tip I read mentions washing the van after to remove tiny metal shavings that might stick to the exterior and rust. Makes sense.

Having trouble finding local installers. In fact, looks like a minimum of $20K to get in the door. That's causing me to lean toward the dark side and consider an older Class B (again, some more), even though we don't need all those "features." Sigh...

My think re awning windows, too. Again, read a few cautionary tales. I think you will like those sliders. We love ours (below picture windows) in the 'ole conversion van and just can't give them up!

Belated congrats! Have fun!
 
Looks simple to me, too, but I don't think I can bring myself to do it. One tip I read mentions washing the van after to remove tiny metal shavings that might stick to the exterior and rust. Makes sense.

Having trouble finding local installers. In fact, looks like a minimum of $20K to get in the door. That's causing me to lean toward the dark side and consider an older Class B (again, some more), even though we don't need all those "features." Sigh...

My think re awning windows, too. Again, read a few cautionary tales. I think you will like those sliders. We love ours (below picture windows) in the 'ole conversion van and just can't give them up!

Belated congrats! Have fun!
Ur worried about metal shavings sticking to it……
In painting one uses a drop cloth. Tape something to the van side to protect it but the best tool for me is not a saw blade or a nibbler but a center cut shear. Not expensive to buy and no metal shaving sawdust. 50ish to 100 bux then sell it for haf price after ur windows r n. I’ll sell u mine win I’m dun. 😎 But hey u do u. 👍🏼

INTJohn
 
Heads up on the electric metal shear....

The cheap ones from harbor freight may not survive more than about one window opening. In the middle of cutting the second window opening is not the time to discover the $50 bucks you spent on the cheap HF shear was wasted money and now you have to stop the job and go buy (or order) another metal shear of higher quality.

Ask me how I know!

I suggest you spend the extra bucks and buy a good one.

Just sayin.
 
HF is fine for non-critical stuff, I buy consumable supplies and some tools from HF...but the metal shear I bought and used to cut some openings in my van broke on the second window opening, trying to follow a curve.
 
I’ve finally settled on an “Order of Battle” re this van build……….
As stated sumware prev post I’m not going to turn this van n2 my own version of a Class B but aim to keep it relatively simple. Price wize win all is said & dun I’ll prolly have arownd 6000$ n2 it on top of purchase price.
First order of Initial big ticket items:
Windows: VWD’s
3 awning types for rear doors & drivers rear 1/4 and a slider for passenger rear 1/4. Larger bunk style 4 sides. Was able to find similar size bunk windows. They’ll b larger than most bunks cause I like light,view & vents. 40x15 and 40x18. These are all VWD’z bonded windows so with install accessories about 1700ish$.

Roof rack: am going with Toppers 12’ galvanized steel rack 500lb rating…… 700ish$

Spare Tire; can’t believe they sell a cargo type vehicle today without a spare tire but anyway as of a couple days ago I now have 1. Tire & rim; mount & balanced. Bought the rim at auto parts/junk yard. 300ish$

Class iv Trailer Hitch & brake controller: 500ish$

Door Bug screens: (bekawz bugs) 600$

100ah LiTime LiFePo4 & ac charger: 450ish$

Ceiling insulated pre fab liner: 400ish$

Insulation: will be a combination of thinsulate, wool & spray foam as not any of them are great for all places - gotta stay eclectic. Sayin. Money wise I’m thinkin 300$ish but??

This is about it for the big ticket stuff as I already have all the everyday living things frum years of truk livin.

Finally have an interior layout vision tho yet a lil blurry but the bed/couch will be lengthwise along driver’s side from rear doors forward ; 78”x30” and approximately 30 - 36” high.

Window installation is first up win ever they arrive (cupl more dayz) along with sum warmer weather.

Interior layout Installation comes down ta 2 things; just like on a boat it’s Security of interior items win under motion & weight distribution.

ciao 4 now
intjonny
 
36” for a bed is a little tall for me and with the high top I guess you will have room for some storage above depending on the window placement. I base everything on being able to to fit 20”x 30” yellow top totes ( 4 of them gives you an 30” wide by 80” long bed platform by simply cutting a piece of plywood) under the bed for storage. I mount milk crates in hangers so I can easily take them down when I need something on the walls above the beds. It is a cheap way to try out your layout ideas before you spend a lot of time and money.
 
36” for a bed is a little tall
That would allow ~18" tall raised floor with storage underneath. Not a bad way to go IMO... but I don't know what he's planning. Weight down low is a good idea. I like seat heights in the 16-20" range @6' tall.
 
I think you are on track. Gotta have windows and screens, and a full-sized spare tire with jack just isn't optional, IMO. Combo insulation strategy makes sense. Lock stuff down, and load it like a canoe.

I'm interested in knowing more about the ceiling kit.

Carry on.
 

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