Carla's Camper

[user 22017]

Yes to this.

When it’s down in the teens, Carla, it is too risky in multiple ways to try to rely only on space heaters.

Run your furnace, at least at night, and during the day if it is still bitter cold and there is no sunshine to warm things up a bit.

That’s not only why you have it, but it’s important to know everything does what it is supposed to do.

I sat out a blizzard a couple of years ago, 5 inches of snow, in a parking lot with no electricity.

It was very cold, I had the furnace only and had thankfully gotten my generator serviced right before I headed south.

I didn’t think I would ever be warm again, but nothing froze up, including me.

If all else fails, be a cautionary tale.

thank you, Rose. I've never used propane tanks before. I always grilled on charcoal. The man who sold me the trailer said I need to get the tanks filled at Walmart or Ace Hardware. Then just turn them on. So I think what I don't know how to do is unhook the tanks and hook them back up. Hmm... I've used the one pounders for years. Maybe they are similar.

I'm in my daughters house thawing out and enjoying the heat. I'll bundle up and explore the propane tanks next.

BTW, granddaughter and I are stumped on how to level the trailer. It has an electric jack and levels all around the trailer, but we couldn't get the bubble in the middle either direction. Should the stabilizing jacks be down before we try leveling it? Or after it is level?

 

[user 22017]

Your trailer should have it's own breaker box that will blow if you draw too much power or are you running the cord into the trailer and not going through the trailer power system?

You may also trip the breaker for the outlets you are plugging into even if you use multiple outlets. BUT... you reduce the risk of overloading the power through the extension cord. Better if you can draw from outlets that are on two different lines from the power source.

Good things... your extension cord is short! This helps a lot! Your extension cord said 12 gauge in the link, so a quick google shows it can handle about 16 amps/1900 watts of power...

Thanks Frood, I'm plugged into the trailer on the outside. So I'm getting power through the trailer's system. No idea where the breaker box is, but I ordered an assortment box of fuses and a voltage meter of some sort (and a big surge protector). I'll grab the links.

Surge protector is for campgrounds, right?

https://a.co/d/911YOev
https://a.co/d/2Xlpw7n

 

[user 22017]

.I'd use the gas heater that came in the trailer, if I wanted to be warm.

I'm going to try that next

 

[user 22017]

... I would recommend getting a cheap plug in watt meter to make sure you don’t overload a circuit. Most trailers use 10 amp circuit breakers or larger to protect wiring in the circuits. Watts divided by volts gives you the number of amps you are using.

I got one, but what do I do with it?

This is what I bought: https://a.co/d/4bGf7n4

 

[user 22017]

Ive used various electric heaters in my winnebago and cabin. A ceramic heater had some sort of smart circuits, if the power went out, it reset, meaning didnt turn back on. I had the plumbing freeze in my bath house and had to re-plumb some of it due to this feature. I threw that heater in the trash. <snip>

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Patton-Electric-Utility-Milkhouse-Heater/17808701
http://baseboardheatercovers.blogspot.com/2014/03/review-of-patton-electric-1500w-radiant.html

That is so funny. We used a milkhouse heater for many, many years in our trailer at the campground. That was in the '70's. They worked great. I've bought several since then. Didn't know they had a name.

I have a radiant heater just like in your image in the basement here. I'll grab it.

You are right, both types put out a ton of heat. I stopped using both, because I have five kids and didn't want the house to burn down (if one of them tossed clothing close to either). I'll be sure to not use those (good but dangerous) heaters with the grandchildren around.

Thanks Malamute.

 

[WanderingRose]

thank you, Rose. I've never used propane tanks before. I always grilled on charcoal. The man who sold me the trailer said I need to get the tanks filled at Walmart or Ace Hardware. Then just turn them on. So I think what I don't know how to do is unhook the tanks and hook them back up. Hmm... I've used the one pounders for years. Maybe they are similar.

I understand completely.

Our very first RV in 2001 was a 1977 Barth Class C, and we knew absolutely nothing about RV’s.

I was also afraid of the propane, and in the 5 years we had that rig I never once used the stove or oven, cooking with an electric skillet and a toaster oven.

We didn’t use the furnace, always had a campsite with electricity and used an electric blanket when it was cold.

You may not need to remove your propane tanks to have them filled, as they may be permanently on board, which is what it sounds like.

That’s what I have in my older BVan, and I have learned soooooo much, especially since the husband died.

If you have access to the last owner, maybe ask him about the propane tanks, where they are, how they are filled.

If you have an owners manual, or can find one online, that should be a source of information.

Might also offer to purchase 30 minutes service time at a reputable RV dealer/repair place and have them explain this all to you. Take notes, pictures, even a little video.

If you have onboard tanks, you need to get your tanks filled at a place that does that, and those that are strictly “exchange” for propane don’t.

Fellow campers are often willing to let you pick their brain a bit, so once you are on the road that is also an option.

But for the kindness of strangers, I might still be fumbling around in the dark, and that’s the truth.

 

[user 22017]

My mom had a gas grill years after I had moved out. I never did light her grill... didn't wanna blow up

I did ask the previous owner. He said to take them to Walmart or Ace Hardware to get them exchanged. He said one is half full.

Thanks for the words of encouragement, Rose

 

[user 22017]

I understand completely.

Our very first RV in 2001 was a 1977 Barth Class C, and we knew absolutely nothing about RV’s.

Have you ever thought about a wood stove in your RV? Bob interviewed someone recently who put one in his truck camper. Here is that video:

 

[WanderingRose]

I would have a little woodstove in mine if I could, believe me, as I have one in my little s&b and it brings me pleasure every time I look at it.

Nothing quite like them for heat, and an internet search should turn up a fair amount of info on them as people do put them in their trailers.

I know a man with a class C that he built himself on a truck frame, and he has a full sized, cast iron, pot bellied woodstove in there, which came from a train caboose, if I remember correctly.

A master craftsman, and if you met him/saw his rig, you would not forget it.

He uses the woodstove in the winter, and hauls that thing all over the country.

 

[Malamute]

thank you, Rose. I've never used propane tanks before. I always grilled on charcoal. The man who sold me the trailer said I need to get the tanks filled at Walmart or Ace Hardware. Then just turn them on. So I think what I don't know how to do is unhook the tanks and hook them back up. Hmm... I've used the one pounders for years. Maybe they are similar.

I'm in my daughters house thawing out and enjoying the heat. I'll bundle up and explore the propane tanks next.

BTW, granddaughter and I are stumped on how to level the trailer. It has an electric jack and levels all around the trailer, but we couldn't get the bubble in the middle either direction. Should the stabilizing jacks be down before we try leveling it? Or after it is level?

Carla, can you take a couple pictures of your tanks up fairly close from a couple angles, mainly the parts on top where the hoses are and the regulator? Yours being older is likely the simpler kind than some more recent ones may have. In the most basic sense, if yours requires the use a crescent (adjustable) wrench to loosen to hose fittings where they go into the tanks, they are reverse thread, meaning rotate right to loosen. If it has the type feasteners you can undo by hand, they are regular thread, meaning rotate left to loosen. Theres a valve on top that has to be opened to use or closed to disconnect the tanks. If you can get pics, Ill find videos that apply to your type you can look at.

This may answer your questions. His is the hand fastener style, and he forgot to put the little bracket for the regulator back on top of the bar that holds the tanks in position at the end.

 

[bullfrog !]

The meter you bought is a multimeter it will come in handy but what you need is a simple watt meter that you simply plug into an outlet and then plug in the appliance into the meter. When you turn on the appliance it will tell you the number of watts the appliance is using. Just search “watt meter” in Amazon. Some are cheap as $13 up to $35.

 

[user 22017]

Thanks Bullfrog

 

[user 22017]

Carla, can you take a couple pictures of your tanks up fairly close from a couple angles, mainly the parts on top where the hoses are and the regulator? Yours being older is likely the simpler kind than some more recent ones may have. In the most basic sense, if yours requires the use a crescent (adjustable) wrench to loosen to hose fittings where they go into the tanks, they are reverse thread, meaning rotate right to loosen. If it has the type feasteners you can undo by hand, they are regular thread, meaning rotate left to loosen. Theres a valve on top that has to be opened to use or closed to disconnect the tanks. If you can get pics, Ill find videos that apply to your type you can look at.

This may answer your questions. His is the hand fastener style, and he forgot to put the little bracket for the regulator back on top of the bar that holds the tanks in position at the end.

Thanks Malamute. I fell asleep and just woke. It is so warm in the house, I couldn't resist a long nap. I'll take pics tomorrow. And, I'll watch the vid.

 

[NctryBen]

Yeah, it’s really getting to cold to be out in your trailer in that kind of weather Carla…
Short term maybe… it was quite cold at my place when I returned in March. Subzero… I of course got that nasty flu bug that was worse then any Covid I had. And I was so weak I had to have a relative come change a propane tank out… I ran one electric space heater and the camper furnace… with my hands I could not even chip the ice to get into the house on the main door and the snow was to deep to get to the back door. I was forced to keep things heated because in coming north it got considerably colder then forecasted and I was already froze up. Luckily I didn’t burst any lines and such not being able to properly winterize…
So I understand what your dealing with…
The “milk house heater” is a good option because if the power goes off and comes back on, so does the heater. Where most electric heaters when the power goes off and come back on have to be turned on manually. My opinion is the milk house heater is more dangerous although pretty cheap. I keep a spare at the house in case. My power never went out when I was there. But when I left… it’s like the power company was watching. “Ben has left, let’s turn the power off and on and screw with his heater…” haha! But I only use those in the house. In the camper I used one I could program a temp and a small 500w one in the bathroom. Kept in the shower so not to be bumped and such… my concern with your camper furnace would be not have being able to have it checked out upon buying your camper before using it. With my camper being a toy hauler I was able to close off the whole back section and make a bed up in the front camper area. Just not real comfortable… but less to heat even though a duct was blowing some back there.
I gotta hand it to you Carla… your determined! But don’t freeze to death trying to get health care issues done there. I found my doctors were just fine with me being held hostage to their schedules… it was counter productive for me to be there with the way the cold affected my hands and body… my house could be 80 degrees inside… infloor heat on and I could tell you the temperature outside by my pain level. And when it was minus twenty and below my pain threshold wasn’t to good… I turned into quite the whimp!

 

[WanderingRose]

Carla, I don’t know what kind of health issues you are taking care of, but be aware you can get a hard copy order for labs and do them anywhere in the country in a LabCorps or Quest, even an outpatient lab in a hospital if there is no stand alone lab available.

I have done labs all over the country.

The doctors who have labs in their offices always want you to do them there, and I do when I am home, but carry lab orders with me for those needing done during times I am traveling.

 

[Malamute]

Another thought, when I was living in my winnebago for longer periods, I rented a 100 gal (not lb) tank from the local company, they deliver it and keep it full on schedule or as on-call. These look just like the larger tanks that are used for houses, just smaller. I had I think a 30' black rubber looking hose made (or bought?) and that ended the nonsense of messing with propane tanks in the winter and getting them filled or exchanged. If you are staying somewhere for some time it may be an option. They may want a couple months or so of use to make it worthwhile to them, or it may just be a yearly fee, but you would have to ask the local company, and where its allowable to set one. Even if i were only going to be somewhere a couple months or so, the $50 or whatever a yearly tank rent is would be money well spent to me just for the comfort and reduced messing about with smaller tanks. The 100 gal tanks had different rules than the larger tanks, giving more flexibility in where they can set them.

Like this https://www.kauffmangas.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/100-gallon-propane-tank.jpg

 

[Frood]

Thanks Frood, I'm plugged into the trailer on the outside. So I'm getting power through the trailer's system. No idea where the breaker box is, but I ordered an assortment box of fuses and a voltage meter of some sort (and a big surge protector). I'll grab the links.

Surge protector is for campgrounds, right?

https://a.co/d/911YOev
https://a.co/d/2Xlpw7n

If your shore-power was wired up to commercial standards then there should be somewhere inside your trailer with a door that opens up with breakers that look like those for a house in it... Maybe inside a cabinet or closet. I've never seen one that was accessible only from outside but I haven't looked at too many trailers either. If it was DIY or homemade then there is no telling how it was done. Keep in mind that if there is not a fuse box then you need to make sure you don't use electricity in the trailer exceeding the max wattage of your extension cord just to make sure you stay safe.

 

[tx2sturgis]

BTW, granddaughter and I are stumped on how to level the trailer. It has an electric jack and levels all around the trailer, but we couldn't get the bubble in the middle either direction. Should the stabilizing jacks be down before we try leveling it? Or after it is level?

Manually leveling a travel trailer is a two step process. (I am not addressing trailers and 5th wheels that have automatic leveling jacks, those are a simple push-button process)

If you have a level surface to park the trailer on you might not need to level it side to side, so you can skip this first part.

Normally the way we level a travel trailer side to side is by using plastic RV leveling pads or blocks of wood, and using your tow vehicle, pull (or back) the trailer tires up on those (estimating the height). Your side to side bubble levels should be in between the marks.

Now block your tires with wheel chocks or blocks of wood. You can also use tandem tire locks, if you have tandem axles.

Front to back leveling is normally done using the tongue jack, after you have unhooked. Then use the jack to raise or lower the front, getting the bubbles in the middle.

AFTER you have it leveled, THEN deploy the stabilizer jacks. Crank them down until they contact the ground, or better yet, plastic RV leveling pads. The stabilizing jacks are not designed to LEVEL the trailer, they are only designed to hold the trailer steady once it has been leveled.

It gets easier with practice.

 

[bullfrog !]

^^^don’t forget to check the wheel chocks are still in place before raising the stabilizer jacks in order to hitch up to the tow vehicle when departing!

 

[LargeMarge]

...reduce the risk of overloading the power through the extension cord. Better if you can draw from outlets that are on two different lines from the power source.

... your extension cord is short! This helps a lot! Your extension cord said 12 gauge in the link, so a quick google shows it can handle about 16 amps/1900 watts of power...

.
a)
In our ExpeditionVehicle, we use a 25'/7m marine extension cord... engineered for boats at the marina.
It is massive and stiff, it is also 8-gauge.
I honestly truly believe it could power a small town... as long as the factory-installed smoke cooperates.
.
.
b)
[Disclaimer : your humble correspondent is neither an electrician nor an electrical engineer.
Fact is, my nickname is 'Sparky' because of my inquisitive ('pushing boundaries' 'ignoring warning labels' 'jumpering around equipment designed to reduce the excited use of nicknames') nature... and the occasional dramatic 'flair' causing no end of 'concern' amongst the straights.]
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Apparently, a short run reduces the inherent loss suffered by every extension cord.
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Apparently, a long cord eats chunks out of the original amount of juice, leaving only a fraction of the original electric from the wall/pedestal outlet.
If your appliance requires 15-amps, but your cord only delivers a dozen amps, the output from your fan-computer-heater-drill-light will be equally reduced.
As the appliance attempts to compensate, you may notice inappropriate heat, noises, flickering, or other protestations... and a shorter service life.
Probably a bad idea.
.
Apparently, going stouter on the copper -- 8-gauge vs 10- or 12-gauge -- reduces resistance, lowering the heat produced by the juice traveling merrily along, minding its own business without a care in the world.
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In the case of our marine 8-gauger, its housing is engineered for constant motion (waves, tides, winds, pedestrian traffic) and the resultant abrasions from rubbing on the pier and anything else it can find to create some mischief.
q : is it over-built for our use on dry land?
a : just barely.
.
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c)
What protects the cord from 'overloading'?
The fuse and the circuit breaker, but not the factory-installed smoke.
.
In a perfect scenario, one single 15-amp outlet provides juice to one single appropriate-size appliance... rated at less than -- and drawing significantly less than -- 15-amps.
In an imperfect Real-World, everybody and their cousin plugs a power-strip into the extension cord, a gazillion outlets and a gazillion opportunities for mischief.
Fingers crossed for 'luck'.
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Disclaimer:
* I tend to avoid building my decisions around a foundation of 'luck'.
.
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d (in which we further confound things))
Coiling excess length?
As juice moves through a conduit such as an extension cord, it creates a magnetic field.
An excessive amount of cord (aka 'too long') encourages the vanDweller to get tidy by stuffing the excess length into a handy cubby.
For appearances sakes.
.
A magnetic field?
Any olden-time mechanic from a working shop can describe the procedure of laying a ferrous engine block or engine head on a coil of extension cord.
Sprinkle some iron-filings over the metal, then plug the cord into the outlet.
(The female end is not connected to anything, no appliance nor other draw, probably irritating it beyond words.)
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Somehow, magically, the cord generates a magnetic field, causing the iron filings to group erectly around flaws (cracks, pits) in the engine block or head.
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For contrast:
Unplug the cord, the filings lose their erections, and fall back into puddles.
Show of hands -- can anybody relate?
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How does this impact the vanDweller?
If you navigate by compass, if your guests have a pace-maker or hearing-aids, if your neck-bolts need frequent re-torquing, I hope you see the issues of too much cord.
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I, on the other hand, could continue this post through next week.
No such thing as too much LM!