...reduce the risk of overloading the power through the extension cord. Better if you can draw from outlets that are on two different lines from the power source.
... your extension cord is short! This helps a lot! Your extension cord said 12 gauge in the link, so a quick google shows it can handle about 16 amps/1900 watts of power...
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a)
In our ExpeditionVehicle, we use a 25'/7m marine extension cord... engineered for boats at the marina.
It is massive and stiff, it is also 8-gauge.
I honestly truly believe it could power a small town... as long as the factory-installed smoke cooperates.
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b)
[Disclaimer : your humble correspondent is neither an electrician nor an electrical engineer.
Fact is, my nickname is 'Sparky' because of my inquisitive ('pushing boundaries' 'ignoring warning labels' 'jumpering around equipment designed to reduce the excited use of nicknames') nature... and the occasional dramatic 'flair' causing no end of 'concern' amongst the straights.]
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Apparently, a short run reduces the inherent loss suffered by every extension cord.
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Apparently, a long cord eats chunks out of the original amount of juice, leaving only a fraction of the original electric from the wall/pedestal outlet.
If your appliance requires 15-amps, but your cord only delivers a dozen amps, the output from your fan-computer-heater-drill-light will be equally reduced.
As the appliance attempts to compensate, you may notice inappropriate heat, noises, flickering, or other protestations... and a shorter service life.
Probably a bad idea.
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Apparently, going stouter on the copper -- 8-gauge vs 10- or 12-gauge -- reduces resistance, lowering the heat produced by the juice traveling merrily along, minding its own business without a care in the world.
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In the case of our marine 8-gauger, its housing is engineered for constant motion (waves, tides, winds, pedestrian traffic) and the resultant abrasions from rubbing on the pier and anything else it can find to create some mischief.
q : is it over-built for our use on dry land?
a : just barely.
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c)
What protects the cord from 'overloading'?
The fuse and the circuit breaker, but not the factory-installed smoke.
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In a perfect scenario, one single 15-amp outlet provides juice to one single appropriate-size appliance... rated at less than -- and drawing significantly less than -- 15-amps.
In an imperfect Real-World, everybody and their cousin plugs a power-strip into the extension cord, a gazillion outlets and a gazillion opportunities for mischief.
Fingers crossed for 'luck'.
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Disclaimer:
* I tend to avoid building my decisions around a foundation of 'luck'.
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d (in which we further confound things))
Coiling excess length?
As juice moves through a conduit such as an extension cord, it creates a magnetic field.
An excessive amount of cord (aka 'too long') encourages the vanDweller to get tidy by stuffing the excess length into a handy cubby.
For appearances sakes.
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A magnetic field?
Any olden-time mechanic from a working shop can describe the procedure of laying a ferrous engine block or engine head on a coil of extension cord.
Sprinkle some iron-filings over the metal, then plug the cord into the outlet.
(The female end is not connected to anything, no appliance nor other draw, probably irritating it beyond words.)
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Somehow, magically, the cord generates a magnetic field, causing the iron filings to group erectly around flaws (cracks, pits) in the engine block or head.
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For contrast:
Unplug the cord, the filings lose their erections, and fall back into puddles.
Show of hands -- can anybody relate?
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How does this impact the vanDweller?
If you navigate by compass, if your guests have a pace-maker or hearing-aids, if your neck-bolts need frequent re-torquing, I hope you see the issues of too much cord.
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I, on the other hand, could continue this post through next week.
No such thing as too much LM!
