1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van for an unconventional guy

[debit.servus]

Took the gas tank to the EZ Clean Car Wash near where I live and paid a little less than $10 to presser spray the tank. Their Triple clean foam was sprayed inside and outside. Three spray intervals, first high-presser water, second Triple foam, and third some more high pressure water to rinse it. The water coming out wasn't brown as I anticipated, which is good news.

The fuel lines coming out of the tank are rubber for two feet until becoming double solid metal fuel lines. How can I clean the metal fuel lines? The guy in the carb store said to acquire a Speed O cable to push inside the metal fuel lines and spin with a power drill. Is that OK?

Last night I removed the carburetor from the engine for taking it in today to a carburetor store. It would cost me $250 FRN$ for them to take apart the carb and clean it. I do not want to pay that if I don't have to. Are there places that will clean a carb for less?

More pictures later, it was in the 90s today outside and high of 115 inside the van (I bought a thermostat).

 

[Prisoner Of Knowledge]

Debit, easy brother...slow down just a little bit. Yes, any type of flexible wire will do. Remember to remove your filters first as they will not allow the wire to pass through or you could damage them. You're doing fine. Think like this: take your time, do it right, remain patient. It's easy to remove something, much harder to install something (CORRECTLY.)

As for coming across negatively, we know that it's just frustration. With Steam having stopped by (more than once) you know that we dwellers stick together...all that's asked is that you pay it forward. A big thank you on this thread wouldn't hurt either. JMHO

You're getting close, and I applaud your work so far. Patience...breathe...do it right, don't cram it, don't rush. If you do, you'll end up riding a tow truck home and starting all over.

N.A.D.C. Honors Graduate, ASE Certified Master Tech...and like you, got my start by pulling some old clunker apart.

BTW, next time at O'Reilly's ask for Carb cleaner not brake cleaner. It's a little easier on fuel system parts. Cheers.

 

[Van-Tramp]

If you have access to a portable air compressor you can simply blow the fuel lines out. Undo the lines at the front (before the filters) and place in a bucket. Use the compressor at the rear and blow from the lines going into the tank forward.

I fear that running a metal line thru a metal line on a drill may cause some metal flakes inside the lines. You would still then need to blow these out. If not, your filter(s) should pick these up, but remember to replace the filters again after a few miles of driving.

 

[Prisoner Of Knowledge]

...I have really gotta stop posting at 2 a.m., right before going to sleep.

 

[debit.servus]

Debit, easy brother...slow down just a little bit. Yes, any type of flexible wire will do.
...
Think like this: take your time, do it right, remain patient. It's easy to remove something, much harder to install something (CORRECTLY.)

...
You're getting close, and I applaud your work so far. Patience...breathe...do it right, don't cram it, don't rush. If you do, you'll end up riding a tow truck home and starting all over.
...

BTW, next time at O'Reilly's ask for Carb cleaner not brake cleaner. It's a little easier on fuel system parts. Cheers.

Can I please have some examples of flexible wire? You are right, it's harder to reinstall a part in the same state as it was uninstalled. What do you mean by starting all over? Like the fuel system becoming filthy again or another fire followed by a near 200 FRN tow. I acquired the highest level of AAA roadside assistance, and another fire extinguisher which is mounted behind the drivers seat in the future closet.

If you have access to a portable air compressor you can simply blow the fuel lines out. Undo the lines at the front (before the filters) and place in a bucket. Use the compressor at the rear and blow from the lines going into the tank forward.

I fear that running a metal line thru a metal line on a drill may cause some metal flakes inside the lines. You would still then need to blow these out. If not, your filter(s) should pick these up, but remember to replace the filters again after a few miles of driving.

Will blasts of compressed air through the fuel lines do the trick? I would think there would still be some crud left after. Also, could I spray both directions, from both ends? Because I plan to go to Pick & Pull Tomorrow to find a "Speed O cable". If it's not needed to do the job I can save half my day by not going to pick & pull by the VTA bus.

---

WHYYY does Bob have the editing posts time limit set to FIVE MINUTES??? I am having to doublepost because of this arbitrary time limit.

Debit, easy brother...slow down just a little bit. Yes, any type of flexible wire will do.
...
Think like this: take your time, do it right, remain patient. It's easy to remove something, much harder to install something (CORRECTLY.)

...
You're getting close, and I applaud your work so far. Patience...breathe...do it right, don't cram it, don't rush. If you do, you'll end up riding a tow truck home and starting all over.
...

BTW, next time at O'Reilly's ask for Carb cleaner not brake cleaner. It's a little easier on fuel system parts. Cheers.

Can I please have some examples of flexible wire? You are right, it's harder to reinstall a part in the same state as it was uninstalled. What do you mean by starting all over? Like the fuel system becoming filthy again or another fire followed by a near 200 FRN tow? I acquired the highest level of AAA roadside assistance, and another fire extinguisher which is mounted behind the drivers seat in the future closet.

I already have some carb cleaner, and speaking of carbs; what is my best option? The carb is filthy. I could figure out how to take it apart and clean it myself with the carb spray, however I feel the carb won't be cleaned right. I called around and asked, paying to clean a carb (which part of the cleaning process is rebuilding) is way more than the price range $20-40 SteamJam spoke of. Could I do a reasonable clean myself or is it best to pay up? I would prefer to do it myself if it's possible to do a decent job.

If you have access to a portable air compressor you can simply blow the fuel lines out. Undo the lines at the front (before the filters) and place in a bucket. Use the compressor at the rear and blow from the lines going into the tank forward.

I fear that running a metal line thru a metal line on a drill may cause some metal flakes inside the lines. You would still then need to blow these out. If not, your filter(s) should pick these up, but remember to replace the filters again after a few miles of driving.

Will blasts of compressed air through the fuel lines do the trick? I would think there would still be some crud left after. Also, could I spray both directions, from both ends? Because I plan to go to Pick & Pull Tomorrow to find a "Speed O cable". If it's not needed to do the job I can save half my day by not going to pick & pull by the VTA bus.

 

[Prisoner Of Knowledge]

Yes, you could clean the carb yourself, but you'll need a manual and someone more experienced than you. Spray and clean the bowl (needle and seat also...remember the manual will explain this.) and use an unrolled paper clip to clean the jets and the venturi boosters. (manual.)

Also, I would encourage a full clean of the fuel lines. I would blow them out (both ways) first. Then I would try some wire and carb cleaner together. Blow them out again. Repeat until no more "crud" is present.

What I meant is that it's better to take your time and do it right at home, than to be trying to diagnose the problem on the side of the road in the rain...only to need to pull the tank again.

All said, your fuel system should be primo when you're done! =D

Be well my friend, you sound better...

 

[debit.servus]

Also, I would encourage a full clean of the fuel lines. I would blow them out (both ways) first. Then I would try some wire and carb cleaner together. Blow them out again. Repeat until no more "crud" is present.
...
All said, your fuel system should be primo when you're done! =D

What kind of wire???


The fuel system doesn't appear as dirty as I expected. I presserwashed the plastic tank at the diy car wash Monday. Today used compressed air to blow out the metal fuel lines, both ways. How do I know what (if anything) is coming out of the fuel lines?


While I have the tank dropped can anyone see by the pictures the condition of the inside tank "screw in" assembly? I have no idea what it's called and what condition it is in, so if there is a bad sensor etc., I need to know.

Also I've noticed experienced mechanics are giving me inaccurate information, and I feel it's on purpose. The mechanics I've consulted with are established and have the mindset "you are not a paying customer so I'll deliberately mislead you". Which sounds counter-intuitive for business reputation however they know paying customers by looks and those just browsing.

Also I am pushing it since I need to get the van in a decent running state by the 15th if I am going to leisurely railfan on the road to EDC Las Vegas.

 

[Prisoner Of Knowledge]

I would have someone hold a rag over the other end of the lines when blowing them out. no dirt, all clean.

As far as the sensors, turn the key ON and move the float (manual) up and down. See if the gas gauge responds...if it worked before, it should work again.

Cheers.

 

[LeeRevell]

On the main motorcycle forum I frequent, a lot of guys clean their carbs with Pine Sol - use a bucket and immerse, let it soak awhile. It really does work! Cuts the crud and makes the aluminum look NEW! The bowl can be removed, but be very careful not to damage any gaskets and diaphragms.
I follow that with a good spray down with carb cleaner. I'm no pro mechanic, but have had the old bike stripped down to the bare frame and rebuilt it myself - a good manual and a good forum with knowledgeable folks really helps. Same as on here for our vans.

 

[debit.servus]

On the main motorcycle forum I frequent, a lot of guys clean their carbs with Pine Sol - use a bucket and immerse, let it soak awhile.
...

I am OK with any method that is a decent job and doesn't cost much in both Promissory Wealth & Time & Energy Wealth.

Would I still have to take the carb apart with the PINE SOL method? Can the rubber gaskets be soaked in PINE SOL?

I am having a guy come over today and look at the carb. He says he has 40+ years experience and can rebuild it and clean it in Two hours for $100 FRN$.

 

[LeeRevell]

Our MC carbs are usually disassembled when cleaned, due to their simplicity. A good manual for your carb is a necessity. Then again, if that feller can do a good job, this will be a one-time payment for at least the next several years. Could be well worth it if you aren't comfortable dismantling the carb.
Me, I am expert at taking them apart. It's the getting them back together with no 'left over' parts that is the real trick.....
I take a series of photos with my little digital camera as I do it.

 

[Patrick46]

$100 for a knowlegible carb rebuild is a fair price. Buy him a 6'er too!
What's this thing got for a carb anyway....a Quadrajet??


as for blowing out your fuel lines...try putting a white piece of paper on the grond at the end. Anything that blows through will show up there, and will be easy to spot.

 

[Simran]

I doubt it has a quadrajet; that is a chevy monster. Probably a Thermoquad or thermo something; if my memory serves me right. I have a Dodge pickup about that vintage but it has a two barrel on it. Not sure the variety though.

$100 for a knowlegible carb rebuild is a fair price. Buy him a 6'er too!
What's this thing got for a carb anyway....a Quadrajet??


as for blowing out your fuel lines...try putting a white piece of paper on the grond at the end. Anything that blows through will show up there, and will be easy to spot.

 

[Zil]

don't bother running any wires or spedo-cable through the fuel lines. Use some carb cleaner spray in the line and then blow out with air pressure. Put an in-line fuel filter near the carburetor and change it occasionally. pay a mechanic to clean and replace gaskets in the carburetor. $100 is fair.

---

Dodge used quadrajet on the 360 v8.

 

[debit.servus]

The carb is now cleaned at a cost of 170 FRN$, It is inside a CABELAS box until I am ready to reinstall it. I just got back on Tuesday morning after a 14 hour GREYHOUND bus ride from Las Vegas with a transfer in LA for experiencing EDC, an electronic music festival. In less than 3 weeks I plan to have this van in drivable state to travel to CANADA for a month.

I will be posting pictures by the end of this week.

 

[Simran]

Dude, you get all the credit in the world for tenaciousness. The weaker of the species would have given up after the fire. /keep on truckin' :>)

 

[debit.servus]

Dude, you get all the credit in the world for tenaciousness. The weaker of the species would have given up after the fire. /keep on truckin' :>)

No soul on earth has an absolute unlimited credit limit, not the US Government, nor the International Mafia Fund or World Banksters.

I was at SF Pride yesterday and today is too hot to work on the van outside. The pictures are coming. Why not use this too-hot-to-work-outside day to post them.

 

[debit.servus]

It is still too hot today to work outside. Today I acquired a deep cycle battery; now the overhead lights, sink pump and rear 12v outlet are back from being decorations. I have been taking it slow for the last week, I haven't forgot about the pictures.

 

[LeeRevell]

Yep, temps are getting into the triple digits here too. Van work is simply too hot at the moment. Oh well, always things needing done around the casa.

 

[Prisoner Of Knowledge]

VERY classy response Simran! (Btw, bus looks great! *jealous*)