1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van for an unconventional guy

[debit.servus]

Much has happened in the back, the drivetrain is the same story. It is funny how dat work.

-Engine compression is imbalanced or gone, no money for a partial or a full engine rebuild. Plus if you're dismantling everything on top might as well replace lifters, springs and the other parts that wear out inside an engine.
-Carburator detuned, running rich. Same deal, no money for a partial or full fix. I am thankful that the van runs and is reliable by my standards.
-No idea on differential condition, whether fluid needs changing.
-Front passenger side suspension is squeaking over bumps, I really hope the suspension doesn't collapse requiring a tow back to my parents house (have AAA Premier membership).
-Transmission shifts from Drive to Reverse hard. I don't know what is going on anymore!!!!!

If anybody on here can be my mechanic and remedy these issues for a reasonable price or be willing to barter for something other than FEDERAL RESERVE NOTEs, please let me know. I am in the wrong part of the country, there are very few shops who work on these rigs in San Jose. Those who do specialize in one thing, which is what I like. Many shops who try to do everthing, are not experienced in everything. Unless they have a dozen mechanics each specializing in one type of system. I can't afford $100+/hr labor rates.

 

[debit.servus]

Here are just some of the mods happening in the living space:
-Upgrading Kitchen sink with a larger one. Because van sinks are too small, can only fit a few dishes in.
-Going to expand the 110v AC system, building standard outlet boxes except with an 15A extension cord running into them for a long lasting power strip. Planning two circuits, one for Heavy Appliances (A/Cs & fridge). Plan to build four of these using standard outlets & boxes.
-Planning to add two 120v AC flourecent lamps (that use 15 watts each), unless somebody can reccommend some DC powered interior lighting.
-Envisioning an in-van computer desk that will house a full desktop PC setup, electronic music creation gear (studio monitors, midi controller, synthesizer, USB audio interface, etc.) & at least one laptop, and 8 external HDDs. While not wasting space, everything is accessible, and tied down. Built the base of a swirvel desk, using a wall-mounted platform for a picture tube TV. I am starting to think with the amount of equipment I would put on top of it, it couldn't swirvel like I designed the base for. So thinking of building a desk from scratch or buying a desk and modifying it to fit my needs. Will probably accomplish the former since I know what I want from it.

 

[debit.servus]

Hello?
I have pictures of the interior of the van on my hard drive from a couple months ago, been busy as shit.

 

[Ballenxj]

Hello?
I have pictures of the interior of the van on my hard drive from a couple months ago, been busy as shit.

Hi, post em up then.

 

[debit.servus]

Ever since I ripped out the carpet in the cab (don't rip out one flooring until one have a replacement flooring ready to install, even if the flooring desired to rip out is old, worn, stained etc.) I have been thinking of different ways to add black vinyl or rubber flooring on the floor of the cab. Weighing the pros, cons, cost & longevity of each product (this deserves it's own thread). I have decided on using HFT anti-fatigue mats & rolls because of it's insulating, heat-tolerance and sound deadening properties. With a layer of black vinyl on top for smoothness and looks. Glueing and screwing down everywhere it can come up.

Before permanently covering the bare metal floor, cleaning it up for obvious reasons.

I will try to "post em up", I make no promises for the timeliness of it though.

 

[highdesertranger]

do not permanently bond anything in the cab area. you must be able to remove what ever is there for various reasons. highdesertranger

 

[debit.servus]

do not permanently bond anything in the cab area.  you must be able to remove what ever is there for various reasons.  highdesertranger

Thank you! I will just screw the fashioned floor down instead. In the summer the cab got hotter than the outside temperature on the road even with the windows open, because of the radiant heat coming from all the bare metal in the cab. Need to panel over the passenger side door with some painted wood paneling. They should have not used glue when they put that brown carpet down inside.

 

[highdesertranger]

it's from the heat radiating off your exhaust, engine, and transmission. highdesertranger

 

[debit.servus]

See next post. V V V V V V V

 

[debit.servus]

it's from the heat radiating off your exhaust,  engine,  and transmission.  highdesertranger

How about strong sunlight beating down to the door, causing the bare metal inside to radiate heat towards me? It could be 72 F air temperature in the cab, but feel like 76 F.

 

[highdesertranger]

sure that contributes to the heat. I was just telling you where the majority of the heat comes from. the surface of your engine and trans is about 250+ degrees, your exhaust is 350+, your catalytic converter is 600-700 degrees. actually your cat is hot enough to light many things on fire. I think you can see where the majority of heat is coming from. highdesertranger

 

[debit.servus]

These are excerpted posts from a van modification I accomplished, which was discussed in a different thread on this forum. I am just crossposting them for future reference:

Dreamed of owning a portable A/C for a long time, finally acquired it this month. Ever since setting it up I have been thinking of fiddle free & frustration free hose exhaust solution. Many people port their portable A/C hoses through the passenger side window. That is not for me as fitting the hose and removing it every time somebody rides with me gets old fast.

Out of all the possibilities I thought of, porting the hot exhaust air through a hole in the metal van floor looks like the best option. The only downside I can think of is the hot air pooling under the van on still air days, conducting back into the van, making the A/C work harder.

The reason I am creating this thread is because I want to hear from other people who accomplished this and how they like it. Also,  any downsides I didn't think of please to porting the portable A/C hose through a metal van floor.

Vent is installed:
(see PHOTOBUCKET frame below this quote)

Virtually silent outside when A/C is running, have to get up close in order to hear anything. Now to quiet the loud PREDATOR (from HFT) 3200/4000W genset so that it's only noticeable a parking spot of two away.
My only concern is during the summer the hot exhaust air, might do some kind of damage to the transmission. Or the plastic vent will melt due to engine heat.

P.S.: That dirt on the transmission is playa dust from Black Rock City.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...cess/2015-Nov-25 Exhaust hole for portable AC"></iframe>

Tools Required to cut an portable A/C exhaust hole in the floor of a van:
Power Drill
5" (or whatever diameter the portable AC duct is) Hole saw capable of cutting through metal
Wire brush, here is one that can attach to a powerdrill http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-wire-wheel-and-cup-brush-set-1341.html
Angle Grinder with grinding wheel

The hole saw I had wasn't made to cut through metal, so the teeth ground away fast. I ended up rough cutting the hole with the angle grinder, trying not to cut outside of the circle I marked on the floor. The angle grinder made short work of cutting a rough hole, which was round out to be as circular as possible. Two times during the rounding out process, I placed the vent over the hole to see where to grind away next. Finally fitted the vent piece in decently, then took it out to to use the wire wheel to grind away all sharp and rough edges. In this step I rounded out even more, interlaced with feeling for sharp edges.

I then placed the vent into the hole, and marked with the powerdrill where the screws go. Removed the plastic vent, drilled the holes where the self-tapping screws go in to hold down the vent and make it flush with the floor. Placed the plastic vent inside again, removed it to re-drill one hole since I was off on it; then placed the vent inside for the last time. Took the screws, pushing down to prevent head strippage (Tip: pre-tap the self-tapping screws if one does not want to press down), and secured the plastic portable A/C exhaust vent in place.

I feel really proud about this. Not only will I no longer need to place the exhaust hose in and out of the passenger-side window, I have cut my first permanent hole into the van.

 

[debit.servus]

For the cab floor I saw flooring at PICK AND PULL that was in a similar van. I am thinking that is the cheapest in terms of Time & Money. Have the fatigue matting underneath for sound dampening & insulation.

 

[debit.servus]

After two years, because of no money; I acquired a FANTASTIC FAN. I plan to install it by end-of-year.

 

[WriterMs]

I''m a "fan" of adding things as you are able. Learning to live without the niceties just makes it that much better when you can add more in.

 

[debit.servus]

I''m a "fan" of adding things as you are able. Learning to live without the niceties just makes it that much better when you can add more in.

Sure it does feel that much better after a long time without it. But if I had money the house side of the van would be completed already. Same story with the car side of the van, mechanical quirks and issues remedied. Function before form, cosmetic mods are very low priority.

Plans have changed. Currently waiting on the Butyl rubber tape and DICOR self leveling lap sealant that should be in my hands in the first week of 2016.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Crosspost from another thread, here for future reference.

If it's sub-critical I try to scrape the money together and if don't have money, I continue operating the van until it becomes critical. If one can't afford to be proactive how can one afford to be reactive?????? I do NOT have mechanic friends (not a user here), no mechanically inclined family within 100 miles of me, and I DO NOT HAVE THE LUXURY TO JUST PUT THE SHOP BILL ON A CREDIT CARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Then on top of this, parent's saying this van is "an old junk" when with 1 grand and the right (what I can afford to pay) helpers, all the loose ends on the drivetrain can be tied and the van rises 2k in KELLY BLUE BOOK value!

Many jobs are take apart, replace/align worn components, and put back together again. These jobs have specific procedures/ways to for the 2nd and 3rd stage. Working WITH somebody experienced, tackling the most neglected (and most common problem sources) systems first will go much much farther than any $100+ shop work I've had ever!!!!

If anybody has worked on the drivetrain on 1986 or near year DODGE VANS can work WITH me for minimum wage, in San Jose, CA please PM me. I expect you to be upfront on your abilities, for example if you are beginner with suspension be upfront with me about it!!!!

My username is latin for "Debt Slave". Most areas of my life it's all about the money, namely not having it. (And YES, I AM willing to work for it!).

I can bet you if I had money for doing proper maintence on the van, I damm would be; and this post wouldn't exist in this dimensions.

That is how I deal with mechanical problems!

 

[debit.servus]

For January I acquired anti-fatigue mat from HFT and cut four panels, now pressed into the four windows on the four back doors on the van. Accomplished the same for the passenger-side camper style window yesterday.

First fashioned blackout panels, then reflectix, blackout curtains, and black construction paper. Foam mats appear to be the best van blackout/insulation solution. Time will tell however on the longevity of the foam mats, so far so good! Need to post dimensions to save others time, through creating an MS paint image or vector drawing.

Already recieved the DICOR sealant, just need to pick up the butyl rubber tape from WALMART. When there is a sufficient pause in the rain, plan to install the FANTASTIC roof fan.

 

[Ballenxj]

Foam mats appear to be the best van blackout/insulation solution. 

I can see that as a solution. Are they a tight pressed fit, or how do you manage to keep them installed?

 

[debit.servus]

I can see that as a solution. Are they a tight pressed fit, or how do you manage to keep them installed?

They are tightly pressed into the windows. Working to block 99% of all light entering the back.

Ballenxj, I read your signature "Some people are so poor that all they have is money." and thought over it for months and can't decipher the meaning. What is the meaning of this?

Could it be those blind cash chasing people who have hundreds of thousands of dollars in the bank and are unhappy with their lives?

 

[Ballenxj]

Ballenxj, I read your signature "Some people are so poor that all they have is money." and thought over it for months and can't decipher the meaning. What is the meaning of this?

Could it be those blind cash chasing people who have hundreds of thousands of dollars in the bank and are unhappy with their lives?

You are real close, and thanks for asking. It is simply referring to those that are so busy chasing the dollar that they lose sight of everything else. Family, friends, the beauty that surrounds us, etc.
I have seen this effect first hand, and most of those people end up miserable because they screwed their friends, or maybe just didn't take the time to make any.
The real riches in life are found in friends and family, while taking the time to enjoy what is going on around you with these people.
I have one true friend that I would not trade  for a pot of gold. 
The rest are just fly by night people.