Hello! Any advice and help appreciated!

[SleepySkies]

So I finally purchased a van I'd like to live and work out of and I'd like to get some input on some of my plans and where I'm at with things in life.

The Van:
2014 Promaster 159" Wheelbase High Top
122,000 Miles with 2 Year/24,000 Mile Warranty
[I don't trust Promasters yet; and good call because the O2 Sensor went out and I'm waiting on repair]

Lifestyle:
I currently work three "jobs" which has me travelling around these regions:
Baltimore-Elkton-Chestertown MD
Newark-Dover-Lewes DE
The climate here is relatively mild and winters aren't harsh, but the short summer period can be pretty hot.
I plan to continue doing all this work for a while living out of this van.

Things Needed:

• Bed [Somewhere between Narrow Twin and Fullsize if traveling with someone]
• Cooktop [I'm leaning towards electric for this]
• Sink [I'm leaning towards a basic system that drains outside; no grey water holding tanks]
• Bathroom [Essentially just an area with a toilet and probably a curtain]
• Small Laptop Work Area
• Electricity [As much as reasonably possible]
• Around 3-4ft of cargo space in the rear for my work.

Things Not Needed/Undecided:

• Shower [The added space and plumbing for a less then optimal shower doesn't seem worth it; I'm around Planet Fitnesses like 6 days a week]
• Fridge [Undecided; I have a good quality Ice Chest and Access to $2.70/20lb Ice]
• Something I'm missing I'm sure.

Build:
Floors: VanTred Rubber Floor, 1/2" Plywood, VCT [Very easy surface to keep clean properly waxed; thats what my work is]
Walls: Thinsulate, Spray Adhesive, Liquid Nail, FRP [Durable, Impact Resistent, Waterproof etc]
Ceiling: Thinsulate, Liquid Nail, PVC Panel
Windows/Fans: Windows [x4], MaxxAir Fan
Electrical: EcoFlow Delta 2 + Battery, Roof Rack, Solar Panels [x4]
Sink: Not sure yet. I'll probably go with a marine style foot pump with 5 gallon water setup.

Anyways any input is greatly appreciated!

 

[INTJohn]

U need to add up your daily wattage needs. Delta 2 n xtra battery is 200 amps I think. Your big issues will be recharging via solar, vehicle and ? Don’t know how sunny it is annually around Chesapeake Bay. You will need to practice major battery amp conservation until you know exactly how to manage it for your lifestyle then ease into it.

Electric Cooktop??? Good luck on that especially if you do get a fridge.
I’m thinkin propane tank and 1 burner Coleman stove for both heat & cookin. But that’s just how I roll.
jonny koon

 

[bullfrog !]

^^^Unless you plan to plug into grid power heat with electricity is big time solar plus generator in most cases. Propane to cook with and vented propane heater to heat with. A Champion dual fuel ( propane only in my case) 2500 watt generator will run a small 5,000 btu air conditioner or if you want a 1500 watt ceramic heater but usually just used on cloudy days to charge batteries. Delta 2 for all other electrical with backup solar charging on good days as propane isn’t cheap compared to free! Lol!!!

 

[INTJohn]

To add:
5 gallon water supply? You will not need a sink, a foot pump or a drain outside.
A 7 gallon reliant aquatainer (20$ Walmart) placed on the counter or wherever and let gravity do the work.
Paper plates; paper bowls; no water used on dishes.
Sayin…….
jonny koon

 

[maki2]

FRO and PVC for walls and ceiling have a downside to them which is they get condensation forming on the surface as it is a cold surface. I out in some white Masonite sliding doors on my pantry cabinet and they too accumulate a lot of condensation on cold mornings.

I suggest you think about using vented diesel heater as your heating will be a lot more reasonable for cost. A potable propane stove in addition to electric is a good choice as in a pinch it can be used for a heat source if you run low on electrical in the winter. Running low on electrical is not unusual in winter months when daylight hours are short and storms tend to be plentiful. Therefore redundancy for a heating and cooking scheme can be a very wise thing to do. This morning was down in the low 30s here in Northern Arizona but heating up the kettle and making breakfast on my gas stove was enough to warm up the space. I could not have done that with an induction cooktop or a microwave. Plus if I want to I can cook outside without electrical hookups.

So think it all through with a closer look at redundancy for your power schemes and include multiple fuel sources as alternatives for different tasks. Because sometimes systems fail for one reason or another including running out of whatever fuel source powers them including solar input.

 

[SleepySkies]

Thanks for all the input!

The stove and sink are pretty low priorities but you all have valid points with the power consumption of a cooktop. I'll probably go the Coleman route and see how that manages when the time comes. Heating isn't a huge concern with our weather here and can always bundle up based on the weather; we only had one light dusting of snow last winter and we generally are just above freezing in the winter I think which isn't bad for me [I grew up in Wyoming lol].

So structurally: Is the condensation forming on the outside a major issue? I imagine with the MaxxAir and 4 Windows there will at least be enough air movement to mitigate some humidity build up. Is that why so many vanbuilds go with the wood look? My goal is sanitary (and able to be sanitized), impact resistant, stain resistant, and lightweight. Also ease of install for a somewhat professional look should be easier with FRP considering it has some "give" to it.

The aquatainer is a good idea; reminded me of an idea I had like 7 years ago when I first started considering doing this. Wanted to have the water container mounted with a rubber hose and clamp so it was a gravity feed tube down into a sink.

 

[INTJohn]

Now I’m gunna pop off about the solar:

4 panels of solar but what’s the watts?
I’m assuming you’re referencing the ecoflow 400 watt portable……? That’s what I use too with the Delta2.
Under ideal low humidity absolute clear blue sky with optimum angle setting on the panel the best I’ve gotten is 365-370 and this was only once. If there’s any clouds at all it’s a lot lower; drops too as the sun angle changes. You’ll need to monitor the system figure out what you’ll receive under what conditions so you can plan your battery use accordingly.
YOU ARE IN CHARGE OF YOUR OWN ELECTRIC COMPANY AND YOU ARE YOUR ONLY CUSTOMER! TAKE CARE OF YOUR COMPANY AND YOUR CUSTOMER OR YOU WILL BE OUT OF BUSINESS!
You’ll need a lot of all day sun to top off 100 amps so if you’re planning on going with 200 amps you will need to keep an eye on sunny days and not use much battery when you see 4 days of clouds coming ur way unless you have other charging options.

I don’t use many watts daily so 200 amps of battery is plenty for me and I also generally follow the sun so solar charging is rarely a problem.

These are things you’ll need to monitor and adapt & adjust your lifestyle too.
sayin……
intjonny

 

[SleepySkies]

Now I’m gunna pop off about the solar:

4 panels of solar but what’s the watts?
I’m assuming you’re referencing the ecoflow 400 watt portable……? That’s what I use too with the Delta2.
Under ideal low humidity absolute clear blue sky with optimum angle setting on the panel the best I’ve gotten is 365-370 and this was only once. If there’s any clouds at all it’s a lot lower; drops too as the sun angle changes. You’ll need to monitor the system figure out what you’ll receive under what conditions so you can plan your battery use accordingly.
YOU ARE IN CHARGE OF YOUR OWN ELECTRIC COMPANY AND YOU ARE YOUR ONLY CUSTOMER! TAKE CARE OF YOUR COMPANY AND YOUR CUSTOMER OR YOU WILL BE OUT OF BUSINESS!
You’ll need a lot of all day sun to top off 100 amps so if you’re planning on going with 200 amps you will need to keep an eye on sunny days and not use much battery when you see 4 days of clouds coming ur way unless you have other charging options.

I don’t use many watts daily so 200 amps of battery is plenty for me and I also generally follow the sun so solar charging is rarely a problem.

These are things you’ll need to monitor and adapt & adjust your lifestyle too.
sayin……
intjonny

I like the electric company analogy.

I was living in a Transit Connect with chemicals and work equipment leaving me with about 2’ x 5’8” of space on top of cardboard or less for a couple months due to some bad circumstances. Just making it clear I’m expecting to adjust and plan accordingly now that I have a vehicle of this size.

Realized for the solar panels I had in the link in the OP was 100w, should be 200W. So 800w in absolute ideal conditions. But at work locations I can charge the battery via outlet and cigarette lighter while driving. The van would only be stationary for a 24hr at most generally. Honestly I don’t know what the max input charge the Ecoflow Delta can take so I’ll look into that.

This region is relatively sunny but I can see where at times it would run into insufficiency. Now the likelihood of that weather happening within a time window I’m not doing the other two things to charge the unit is unlikely; but at 365 days even a 1% chance will happen around 4 days a week. So I’ll adjust.

 

[shadowmoss]

Being willing to adjust to what is can be an important part of enjoying this lifestyle. Plan for everything you can, but know that when things go wrong usually several things pile up. It is the step from accepting that water isn't just turning a knob and it always runs, or adjusting a thermostat and it always makes the temperature right that trips newer folks up. You've been doing it for awhile so you will be fine.

 

[SleepySkies]

Being willing to adjust to what is can be an important part of enjoying this lifestyle. Plan for everything you can, but know that when things go wrong usually several things pile up. It is the step from accepting that water isn't just turning a knob and it always runs, or adjusting a thermostat and it always makes the temperature right that trips newer folks up. You've been doing it for awhile so you will be fine.

I appreciate the input and vote of confidence.

Honestly I'm currently living out of the Promaster with just a bed and my work supplies and it is sooooooooo much more comfortable having a normal amount of space to sleep in. I know simultaneously living out of the van and working 65-80hrs a week is going to make actual construction a bit difficult but it is still a massive improvement in circumstance from where I was.

 

[LargeMarge]

a)
Sink:
For worshing, we use a pair of spritz bottles:
* the first is loaded with a weak sudsy solution with a squigen of bleach.
* the second is clear for rinsing.
.
As you might imagine, the amount of fluid is minimal.
Most of it evaporates in-transit between hands and ground.
The rest barely forms a damp spot on the pavement or dirt.
.
And the sink?
Never saw the need.
If you leaning toward 'no gray' is basic, we must be positively primitive...
.
b)
MaxxxAxxx fan?
We are founding members of the No! Holes! In! The! Roof! club.
.
Alternatives:
For a food-truck conversion about a decade ago, we installed two MaxxxAxxx fans vertical on the walls.
Why?
* they leak less than a roof-hole
* we absolutely live-n-breathe for saying the sexy symbolism of 'roof-hole'.
Example:
* a 'yes' -- "Are you sure about that roof-hole?"
* a 'probably not' -- "Are you sure about that, roof-hole?"...
... because the second version could be taken as somewhat rude and offensive by the 'sensitive' crowd.
Can't have that, nosirree.

 

[Frood]

Without the option of holding gray-water you are going to be limiting the places you are able to go... and gray-water holding system can be pretty simple if need be (ie jug or bucket under the sink that is emptied as needed). Some places don't take kindly to gray water being dumped on the ground (and to be blunt if everyone did this the environment in heavily used areas would get quite disgusting quite rapidly).

 

[abnorm]

Also ease of install for a somewhat professional look should be easier with FRP considering it has some "give" to it.

Welcome to the Forum..........I'm a builder

FRP ......the standard for commercial kitchen remodels....is usually 100% bonded to a solid substrate

You suggest you can glue it to only the "studs"........that's a lot of weak unsupported panel between studs

and what about the EDGES.......there are plenty of moldings and trim available but again without a solid wall....... How do you install ?

 

[Carla618]

Without the option of holding gray-water you are going to be limiting the places you are able to go... and gray-water holding system can be pretty simple if need be (ie jug or bucket under the sink that is emptied as needed). Some places don't take kindly to gray water being dumped on the ground (and to be blunt if everyone did this the environment in heavily used areas would get quite disgusting quite rapidly).

It also attracts critters.

 

[Frood]

It also attracts critters.

Inside your vehicle? Or do you mean the gray water expelled on the street?

 

[Carla618]

Inside your vehicle? Or do you mean the gray water expelled on the street?

Grey water dumped on the ground. Maybe that just applied to the desert. No idea where I read it.

 

[Frood]

Grey water dumped on the ground. Maybe that just applied to the desert. No idea where I read it.

Makes sense anywhere. Grey water may contain bits of food waste, or the scent of food, etc, when you wash things after prepping food...

 

[SleepySkies]

Welcome to the Forum..........I'm a builder

FRP ......the standard for commercial kitchen remodels....is usually 100% bonded to a solid substrate

You suggest you can glue it to only the "studs"........that's a lot of weak unsupported panel between studs

and what about the EDGES.......there are plenty of moldings and trim available but again without a solid wall....... How do you install ?

With insulation filling the void between “studs” and with the studs also running lengthwise I didn’t think it would be too much of issue. Now if that doesn’t provide enough structural support I could always trim a 1/4 plywood and then adhere the FRP to that; correct?

 

[INTJohn]

If you look at pictures of my van build I screwed 2x10s or 2x8 to the sides where the d-ring holes are. I already had them; wasn’t like I had to use something that big but already had em so used em.
Same with the d rings on the floor; fastened the 3/4” plywood using the d ring screw holes.

Everything else is screwed & secured to that “frame”& flooring.
INTJohn

 

[Sage]

So I finally purchased a van I'd like to live and work out of and I'd like to get some input on some of my plans and where I'm at with things in life.

The Van:
2014 Promaster 159" Wheelbase High Top
122,000 Miles with 2 Year/24,000 Mile Warranty
[I don't trust Promasters yet; and good call because the O2 Sensor went out and I'm waiting on repair]

Lifestyle:
I currently work three "jobs" which has me travelling around these regions:
Baltimore-Elkton-Chestertown MD
Newark-Dover-Lewes DE
The climate here is relatively mild and winters aren't harsh, but the short summer period can be pretty hot.
I plan to continue doing all this work for a while living out of this van.

Things Needed:

• Bed [Somewhere between Narrow Twin and Fullsize if traveling with someone]
• Cooktop [I'm leaning towards electric for this]
• Sink [I'm leaning towards a basic system that drains outside; no grey water holding tanks]
• Bathroom [Essentially just an area with a toilet and probably a curtain]
• Small Laptop Work Area
• Electricity [As much as reasonably possible]
• Around 3-4ft of cargo space in the rear for my work.

Things Not Needed/Undecided:

• Shower [The added space and plumbing for a less then optimal shower doesn't seem worth it; I'm around Planet Fitnesses like 6 days a week]
• Fridge [Undecided; I have a good quality Ice Chest and Access to $2.70/20lb Ice]
• Something I'm missing I'm sure.

Build:
Floors: VanTred Rubber Floor, 1/2" Plywood, VCT [Very easy surface to keep clean properly waxed; thats what my work is]
Walls: Thinsulate, Spray Adhesive, Liquid Nail, FRP [Durable, Impact Resistent, Waterproof etc]
Ceiling: Thinsulate, Liquid Nail, PVC Panel
Windows/Fans: Windows [x4], MaxxAir Fan
Electrical: EcoFlow Delta 2 + Battery, Roof Rack, Solar Panels [x4]
Sink: Not sure yet. I'll probably go with a marine style foot pump with 5 gallon water setup.

Anyways any input is greatly appreciated!

Concerning the bed, if you can sleep on 24"wide foam mattress you can get one 72" long at Joann's Fabrics/sewing and such. Wrap it in a king flat sheet or canvas to keep it clean and add your usual linens or bedroll. I suggest a simple wood frame using 1x2 and 1x4 inch lumber and a 3/4 inch plywood sheet which can be cut length wise and hinged for easy access under the bed. Use the heavy lumber for areas strength and handling weight is needed and the lighter wood to add stability to the frame. If you need more width than 24" you just make it the width you need and support across the center of the bed so the plywood platform doesn't bend , boards turned vertically give more strength and support than laid horizontally. If you live in a high humidity area, as it appears you do, you may want to put holes in the plywood for ventilation or stand your mattress on edge several times a week or flip it. The more humidity and how much you sweat will determine what you need to do about this to keep your mattress from getting moldy. I'm building out a Promaster, too. Several trips in it have shown me many changes I need to make for comfort and practical use. You may find with use that changes will make it better for you to use.