1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van for an unconventional guy

[debit.servus]

Me and SteamJam last Friday took a look at engine and discovered the main problem while I watched and learned. SteamJam opened the carburetor to discover the fuel reservoir and the inside of the carb is filthy! A trip to OREILLYs and I acquired carb cleaner, brake part cleaner and eight AUTOLITE spark plugs. Me and him took apart the carburetor as I learned. We cleaned the inside of the carb which the fuel resivoir had rust on the bottom like gravel in a fish tank. Elsewhere the lines in the carb were clotted and clogged.

I learned two very useful things. One is most automobiles have stickers under-side of the hood with detailed automobile information. The second and most important for anyone with carburetors of this era, to stab the gas pedal twice before turning the ignition to start the engine. This per-ignition start resets the carburetor to have smooth timing and fuel delivery.

We also replaced all eight spark plugs and discovered the old spark plugs are blackened like soot in a chimney. "I am surprised this engine even ran" SteamJam said. We fixed what has to be the main culprit causing these fuel and electrical issues. After carb was reassembled and spark plugs replaced, I started the van and massive improvement. The engine sounds like it should, not a riding lawn mower sound. SteamJam discovered the rubber gasket separating the carb and engine block was worn and thus causing a whistle sound. Before SteamJam left another trip to OREILLYs was made to acquire a new separator gasket mating carb and engine.

The long-term appropriate fix to the loose rust particles is paying 50-100 FRN$ to have the gas tank boiled out for a total clean. I do not want to boil the gas tank if not absolutely necessary. I devised a way to do it myself by unscrewing the gas tank drain and putting a worn sock through as a filter. I would drain the gas through the sock and pour the filtered gas back into the tank and repeat the process a few times until loose dirt is miniscule. Since water would rust the insides of the tank even more and not provide a good clean, are there oil-based chemicals I could buy to fill the tank with as an alternative to boiling it out? Like something to fill the tank up with, let the chemicals sit and break down the crud, then drain the chemicals before filling the now cleaner tank with gasoline.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Boil it, or the rust will only return and cause you the same issues soon down the road.

Good to hear things are coming together finally.

By the way, look back at post #17 of this thread. Did I call it or what?

 

[Simran]

Steamjam, A big thanks goes out to you for your efforts here. We ALL owe you one.

Thanks​

 

[user 423]

Yep, V-T hit it right on the nose. Too bad that year didn't have the plastic tank like the older models. Google "gas tank rust removal". There are plenty of possible solutions but probably no simple ones that don't require removing the tank (not a fun job). Or you can get a new one from Rock Auto for about $130:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...arch+for+2000+FORD+CROWN+VICTORIA+4.6L+V8+CNG

These are only 22 gall. tanks, so your driving range will be shorter.

 

[debit.servus]

Me & SteamJam worked some more with the carburator last Monday, and concluded the fuel issue. Me and SteamJam removed (mostly him, I learned) removed the carb off of the engine to replace the gasket/rubber piece separating the carb from the engine. SteamJam discovered the little passages and tubes in the carb were dirty. Before arriving SteamJam bought five mylar blankets that I reimbured him for, to save me some time. I also loaned SteamJam my copy of Walden On Wheels. We came to the conclusion the entire fuel system is dirty, so next month (June 2014) I plan to have the gas tank boiled out, with the carburetor cleaned by a professional. Are there balls that could be pushed and pulled with compressed air and a vacuum cleaner inside the rubber fuel hoses to clean them? How can I clean the fuel lines myself next month?

Other News, Insulation is going in. I put REFLECTIX first over the existing brown felt (a little extra insulating capability), then EAGLESHIELD. The EAGLESHIELD is left over from my Parents conventional home improvement, meaning my monetary cost for it is 0. Because of the increasing exposure to man-made radio waves, proliferation of cell towers, and radiation from Fukushima arriving on North Americas west coast. I am putting aluminum foil secured by school glue in a paper mache style. This is going over the EAGLESHIELD in the high-top walls, and directly over the bare metal on the back walls. Knowing what I know about insulation so far; I could have simply molded more polyurethane over the now-scraped away inconsistent polyurethane, apply EAGLESHIELD, aluminum foil, accomplished. I learned is what is important, and a big thing I learned so far with life is not to over-complicate things! Anyway here are the latest pictures taken May 14th:

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...014-May-14 - Insulating the Ceiling and Walls"></iframe>

 

[Van-Tramp]

Rubber fuel lines? just replace them. They are very cheap, and it will be good preventative maintenance. Spring for all new hose clamps too. It will look nice and be much easier (less scraped knuckles)

Solid fuel lines? Just blow them out with an air compressor. A semi-good seal on one end and a jolt of air will toss everything out one end (fuel too, use care). Start at the tank, and blow forward. Have the fuel line off at the fuel filter and into a bucket. Super easy. They are usually aluminum, so they should not rust themselves.

 

[Bdog1]

I'm a little confused... Was this the original carb? Or a junkyard item? Is the rust from your system or did it come with the replacement carb? A fuel filter will plug solid before it lets junk pass bye. Where's your fuel filter, replace it and hack saw it open and inspect. Take a good look for the charcoal canister, they can rupture and deposit black carbon in the float bowl, without any filter.

 

[debit.servus]

I'm a little confused... Was this the original carb? Or a junkyard item? Is the rust from your system or did it come with the replacement carb? A fuel filter will plug solid before it lets junk pass bye. Where's your fuel filter, replace it and hack saw it open and inspect. Take a good look for the charcoal canister, they can rupture and deposit black carbon in the float bowl, without any filter.

Read my previous posts! Me and my angry dad replaced the carb with a $300 rebuilt carb. I replaced the fuel filter. If fuel filters are designed to plug up I must get all the reject fuel filters new in the box. I will look into replacing the fuel filter (again...) and cut it open!

 

[steamjam1]

I'm a little confused... Was this the original carb? Or a junkyard item? Is the rust from your system or did it come with the replacement carb? A fuel filter will plug solid before it lets junk pass bye. Where's your fuel filter, replace it and hack saw it open and inspect. Take a good look for the charcoal canister, they can rupture and deposit black carbon in the float bowl, without any filter.

That's actually a good point on the charcoal canister. I had not considered that only because I've never seen it happen. The amount of particles in the float bowl was surprising, although it didn't look like charcoal in colour, they were all spherical in shape. Also, the next time I went down to Debit's the carb clogged up again, yet I verified fuel pressure to the carb, and was able to spray fuel manually into the carb throat and the engine ran fine.

 

[Bdog1]

I don't remember exactly what that carb.looks like but it may have a 3/8 hose on the top of the bowl area for vapor. Kinda mounts in a plastic block?

Like pellets? Yea that's it! I've found it a few times over the years. Get a cheap plastic see through filter and put it in that bowl vent line, see if it gets the pellets in it. Make sure the flow arrow is toward the carb so any trash is in the side you can see. There's a canister somewhere (black plastic box) and that's the source.

 

[debit.servus]

More Insulation, including the CARLYSLE rigid foam block insulation. The rigid foam block insulation is not the best for a van, I do not recommend foam block for curved applications. For anyone else simply add more polyurethane on top of the inconsistent polyurethane. How do you think the process has gone so far?

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...ons process/2014-May-22 - Insulation going in"></iframe>

 

[debit.servus]

More insulation work, the original rear paneling is going back in. I am proud of the REFLECTIX taped over the old brown felt & re-purposing of original van materials.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...2014-May-27 panels formed fitted van improved"></iframe>

 

[debit.servus]

Dropped the fuel tank with some fuel left in it since I thought it was next to empty. When I look inside there is visible dirt on the bottom. The fuel tank is made of plastic with a visible metal piece outside. The pictures portray the fuel tank is from an archaeological dig, from an advanced human civilization less than a 1000 years old.

Is it possible to presserwash the inside of the tank repeatedly until water drains clear, then let the water exaporate before adding gasoline back in?

There are four pictures, however come back later since I'll add more.

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Ru...process/2014-June-7 dropped plastic fuel tank"></iframe>

 

[Van-Tramp]

If it is plastic inside, I don't see why not (pressure wash it out). Just be sure to let it dry, and to further ensure no water, add some sea-foam to your first re-fill (8-10 gallons only) which will rid it of any moisture.

Since you have it out, you may want to consider replacing your fuel pump (it is inside the tank yes?)

 

[debit.servus]

Since you have it out, you may want to consider replacing your fuel pump (it is inside the tank yes?)

The fuel pump doesn't appear to be inside the tank, I need to crawl under the van and snap some pictures of the hoses & connecting interfaces to the fuel tank.

The inside of the fuel tank appears just what I assumed, all plastic. If presserwashing will work I rather pay a day of my time & energy versus 125 FRN$ which is the quote I got for boiling it at one shop.

If so, need to borrow a presser-washer because of the lack of a TECHSHOP membership.

I feel like I am supposed to scream and cry instead of laughing and being joyous. I feel like maybe if I did not have these setbacks, I could do things like live my dreams, have great times and get ahead. Perhaps this van is just a test for my semester on earth.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Im not even sure they can boil a plastic tank. Spray it out and save the money.

You could just bring it too a do it yourself car-wash. Just keep it on rinse, no soap or wax.

 

[debit.servus]

You could just bring it too a do it yourself car-wash. Just keep it on rinse, no soap or wax.

This is how low income people stay low income. Going to a do it yourself car wash and not only spending time, but money for someone elses overhead. Low income stay low income because of costs like this. I can borrow someones presser washer for $0. Or I could rent one from a place like ACE HARDWARE for less than $30. Or I could buy one from HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS for $90.

I do not intend to criticize your advice. However, I thought this forum if for CHEAP RV living. People boast on here about their social connections and ability to pull strings like a guitarist. I am NOT looking to attain the privileged status or intend to be a user. For me social connections mean "I help you-BEFORE-you help me". I feel people brush me aside since I come off negatively.

 

[user 423]

Is $4.00 at the local car wash going to break you? How can you criticize that advice?

The forum is FREE...how can you beat that? If you don't follow the advice given, then it just may cost you.

 

[debit.servus]

Is $4.00 at the local car wash going to break you? How can you criticize that advice?

The forum is FREE...how can you beat that? If you don't follow the advice given, then it just may cost you.

Four FRN$ isn't a hardship for me. It's been my experience that places like that cost more however. The local do-it-yourself car wash is nearby and I need to check the prices there to see if it's a cost effective option.

The forum is free you are right. I didn't intend to come off negatively. I just pointed out budget (insert class of vehicle conversion here) not only require a load of personal Time & Energy investment, but good standing social connections to lend a hand once in a while IN RETURN for personal help on their projects.

 

[Van-Tramp]

If you can borrow one, that is the way to go for sure.

When I bring my van (same size as yours) to the car-wash down the street from me, I can wash and rinse the whole thing for less than $4. If you are just rinsing out a tank, you can get that done for $1 or less (here, not sure about your area). Otherwise, just borrow a neighbor's garden hose. You shouldn't need high-pressure, just some pressure.