what should I learn about repairs and maintenance?

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My experience over some 40 years of driving and working on many different vehicles is that in general, there is little difference in basic quality or reliability between Ford, Chevy/GM and Dodge. The most important thing is how the vehicle has been cared for and maintained through the years. I do prefer the Ford for it's heavier duty truck frame/body construction, over Dodge's unibody construction. Not sure of Chevy/GM in that respect.
Get the manuals, a good tool kit, learn to do the basic servicing and simple maintenance, and gradually increase your knowledge base.
 
Vango, in order to become a good diagnostician, you need to have a fundamental understanding of how engines and vehicles work. This comes with time, so don't beat yourself up when you can't figure something out. Lots and lots of mistakes will be made along the way as you gain knowledge; that's how all of us got to where we are.

A common problem is a vehicle not turning over because of a dead battery. Most people then assume they have a bad battery, so they replace it. Maybe the battery was bad or maybe it wasn't, but they didn't take the time to diagnose to see if the battery was bad and if it was bad, why was it bad? Was the battery old? Did the ground have a poor connection? Was the grounding cable damaged? Was the alternator not performing well? Did the battery have a bad cell from the factor causing it to fail prematurely? Was an older but still functional battery failing because it can't provide the extra oomph needed because of the excessive demands of a failing starter? Etc.

Lots of stuff to consider. Therefore, pick a starting point. Start at the battery. Take it out, charge it up, and do a load test. Or you can use a newer battery tester, but those are expensive. Or better yet, many places will test your battery for free; that's my kind of diagnosing! Then let's say the battery tested poorly and is 5 years old. It's starting to get old, so you replace it and are done with the repair. (Or you could find out that the battery tests good, so you start diagnosing for why the battery failed to take a charge instead of becoming a parts-changer.)

The new battery is in, but some batteries last longer the 5 years, so you start wondering if another problem exists. Perhaps the alternator? Testing the alternator is quick and easy and many places will test this also for free. Yay! Then let's say the alternator tested weak, so you replace that, too. The alternator could have been weak and not placing enough of a charge on the battery, so the battery failed a little earlier than normally expected, or the battery could have simply worn out on its own. Or the battery was weak placing a consistent high demand on the alternator making it fail a little earlier than expected, or it could have failed on its own as mechanical stuff is wont to do. It's not unusual to find more than one problem when repairing your vehicle, so try not to have tunnel vision and try not to be short sighted and assume something is truly fixed after you've made one repair.

Ok. Now you're in a thinking mood. You notice that the vehicle isn't turning over quite as fast as it used to, so you wonder if the starter may be getting old. You've had the vehicle 10 years and haven't replaced it since you owned it, so you figure it's worth a look. You look and see that it is starting to show wear, so you replace that, too.

By this time you are probably frustrated all this stuff that has been repaired, but you take satisfaction that you replaced it now in the comfort of a friend's driveway on a nice day on your own time instead of on the side of the road in a rain storm. Diagnosing is being aware of how your particular vehicle works and starting at one end of a system and working through it until you find the problem, then not stopping there, but continuing your thought process to include possible other problems that may or may not be related to the one you found. Most people will let a problem continue until it utterly fails and then run around like a chicken with its head cut off trying to fix it; too much drama for me.

If you want to show off, learn how to use a multimeter. It's actually pretty easy to use, but you will amaze your friends and family on the stuff you can quickly and accurately learn. Get a good one, though. A cheap one, while helpful, is quite limiting.
 
Vango

Besides the maintenance issues, I think the next step would be to learn the basics of how an engine runs -what and each major system does: fuel, electrical, coolant, oil and oxygen. Learn the basic components of each. You can probably find good online tutorials. Then learn about suspension and steering. As you learn, find the tools you'll need for each.
 
Don't try to run without knowing how to walk first.
 
One thing I found at one of the common Auto Parts stores here was a series of DVD's that each cover an aspect of auto systems and maintenance. Helps to reinforce what you read online and in manuals. Cost is minimal.
 
I didn't want to sound like I thought myself superior or anything so I didn't push the point Canine made but, the ability to think through a problem is as important as knowledge. His tale shows what most people think like. They feel they shouldn't be wrong and preliminary results might show some improvement but soon shows that you were wrong. But you don't learn from your process. You CAN and DO sometimes get brand new parts that aren't any good so a lot of people think that is what happens a lot more than it actually does.
Some knowledge here. Understand why timing is so critical. That's Cam timing as well as Ignition timing. Both areas need to be "timed" with the crankshaft, which means the valves need to open within a certain part of the rising and falling of the piston, the "stroke". Too soon and your losing compression on the compression stroke and possibly getting exhaust pressure blowing back through the intake system. Too late and your losing power until it gets so far retarded that that it doesn't have enough compression to run. Retarded cam/valve timing means that the valves are opening so late that the intake isn't open long enough when the piston is on the the down stroke to completely fill the chamber with fuel air mixture an it is also pushing some of that mixture back out through the intake valve when the piston starts coming back up on the "compression " stroke because the valve didn't close early enough.
Now, I've got a head ache. Later ya'll.
 
Getting a little advanced for a beginner, Terry. Lol

But view the moving graphics I posted, and you'll get an idea that everything has to happen at a particular time, in conjunction with everything else. But that's a lesson down the road. Don't let it get you confused now.

Understand the components and systems, then worry about how they are timed.
 
Canine said:
Vango, in order to become a good diagnostician, you need to have a fundamental understanding of how engines and vehicles work. This comes with time, so don't beat yourself up when you can't figure something out. Lots and lots of mistakes will be made along the way as you gain knowledge; that's how all of us got to where we are.

It's clearer now.  So if I run into a problem, I first use what I've learned about the entire vehicle to think about what parts could be causing the problem and decide the order to test them.  Next I search the internet for related problems specific to my vehicle and other people who've had the same problem to add to the testing list or suggest what's more likely.  Then videos and manuals for details on what to adjust or replace.

I first thought that flowcharts might be a way to solve the problem with limited knowledge, and they still might, but after comparing a few charts to your run through of starting problems, it's easy to miss the root of the problem.  Thanks.
 
Terry said:
I didn't want to sound like I thought myself superior or anything so I didn't push the point Canine made but, the ability to think through a problem is as important as knowledge.

Too soon and your losing compression on the compression stroke and possibly getting exhaust pressure blowing back through the intake system.  Too late and your losing power

Terry, of course you didn't sound superior.  You and everyone who's commented have been helpful.

Seraphim and Terry, thanks for the engine link and the explanation.  I remember bits and pieces by reading an auto shop book that I borrowed from a guy sitting next to me during English class.  I knew showing up to English class would pay off some day.  So the timing problem is most likely due to an old timing belt or belt tensioner?  What are the symptoms of exhaust pressure blow back?  The air filter smells like exhaust and the air intake manifold gets gunked up?  Losing power seems like it could be caused by so many things, just reinforcing what Canine said.
 
Since you're mechanically inclined I would add the suggestion to view youtube videos and watch the repair you are about to try. I have a strong background in heavy machinery but not in other areas such as engine repair. However I have saved thousands watching youtube and going out and doing the repair myself. Did a full carburetor rebuild, replaced the ignitor on a stove, replaced a fuel pump, etc. Just adding this in.....I would also make sure to take the good advice offered by others so far.
 
There is a guy called Eric the Car Guy on YouTube; he has his own website, too. He does a great job of explaining, showing, and educating his viewers. ChrisFix is another one. I've only seen a couple of his videos, but both were quite good.
 
vango said:
Terry, of course you didn't sound superior.  You and everyone who's commented have been helpful.

Seraphim and Terry, thanks for the engine link and the explanation.  I remember bits and pieces by reading an auto shop book that I borrowed from a guy sitting next to me during English class.  I knew showing up to English class would pay off some day.  So the timing problem is most likely due to an old timing belt or belt tensioner?  What are the symptoms of exhaust pressure blow back?  The air filter smells like exhaust and the air intake manifold gets gunked up?  Losing power seems like it could be caused by so many things, just reinforcing what Canine said.

Timing can be a mechanical issue, such as worn timing belt.  And I'm assuming you know the difference between a timing belt and the serpentine belt(?).  It can also be a problem with the computer system. For example, a bad sensor sending incorrect information - or no information  - information to the computer, and the computer makes a faulty decision because of bad data. But technically, that may not be 'timing' per se. 

Can't help you much with blow-by. The only true test is a pressure test, and I've never done that.  I don't see how it could affect the air filter, though. Mostly it shows up in the oils system - the dipstick tube or the filler cap.  For something to get to the air filter from the combustion chamber, it would have to escape through an intake valve, back through the manifold, to the filter. Or the timing could be off, but that would affect EVERY intake valve, and the engine would run very rough, if at all, I think. So possibly a valve job - but I'm no diagnostician, so don't do anything based on my thoughts lol. Pressure testing will find a leak.
 
My best friend is a retired mechanic - owned his own shop for over 30 years - I leave diagnostics to him lol.
 
Does the manifold get gunked up mostly on one side, or evenly across the manifold? May indicate if one valve is leaking, or if all of them are. Maybe valve or valves just need adjusting...

Any mechanic out there can jump in any time, if they think my reasoning is faulty...
 
Another sign it may be a valve is if you get a white smoke from the exhaust when you start the car, after the engine has set for a while (overnight). The white smoke disappears shortly. What's happened is oil has leaked into the combustion chamber through a valve, then burns off in a few seconds when the engine starts, emitting a white smoke.
 
Sorry t be on a roll, but if you're looking at buying a used car, you want to watch it start when the engine is cold - don't let the owner 'warm it up' before you get there. A cold engine which is difficult to start, or an engine which emits any white smoke at all is one to walk away from, unless you plan to plan to rebuild the engine. A seller who knows his car needs a valve job, and knows you are coming at 2 pm to see it, will go out at 1:30, start th car to burn up the oil in the combustion chamber before you get there.
 
Seraphim said:
Sorry t be on a roll, but if you're looking at buying a used car, you want to watch it start when the engine is cold - don't let the owner 'warm it up'  before you get there. A cold engine which is difficult to start, or an engine which emits any white smoke at all is one to walk away from, unless you plan to plan to rebuild the engine.  A seller who knows his car needs a valve job, and knows you are coming at 2 pm to see it, will go out at 1:30, start th car to burn up the oil in the combustion chamber before you get there.

I opened my car hood yesterday to match up the parts in the car to the parts in the engine link that you sent.  In hindsight, it's obvious that no valves or cylinders would be exposed.  Is it fair to say that if something in the engine block has a problem, then rebuilding is the only solution?
 
Seraphim has a pretty good grasp on what happens in an internal combustion engine. And he seems a lot better at explaining things so I'm gonna pass on any more headaches trying to figure out how to explain things. Heck, I'd say he could be a pretty decent mechanic if he wanted to try his hand at it.
 
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