What did you, yourself, Repair recently?

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Any cast iron welding experts out there? I have an old 50 year old farmall tractor, with a broken center steering rod, made of cast. Hard to find parts for this tractor, so I decided to repair it. I know cast iron iron has to be preheated to about 700 degrees before you get a good welding. I think there is a welding repair rod, where you don't need to preheat. Does anybody know the rod number?
 
there is a lower heat option, can you post a pic of the part so I can give you better advice? I am not a professional welder but I have welded cast before. I have also remade parts out of regular iron/steel to replace broken cast parts. post up a pic. highdesertranger
 
[ATTACH=full said:
3665[/ATTACH]  highdesertranger pid='139908' dateline='1434167991']there is a lower heat option,  can you post a pic of the part so I can give you better advice?  I am not a professional welder but I have welded cast before.  I have also remade parts out of regular iron/steel to replace broken cast parts.  post up a pic.  highdesertranger

Yea, I thought about doing the same, making one out of a non cast. I have some quarter inch iron laying around. I'm going to try to weld the old one first.

I been having problems downloading from my camera, I'll keep trying. I did get a picture off Ebay that is similar, mine has two hole instead of three.
 
i just re-reupholstered my driver seat, with good ole duct tape (camo for flare). :D
 
gojo said:
Any cast iron welding experts out there? I have an old 50 year old farmall tractor, with a broken center steering rod, made of cast. Hard to find parts for this tractor, so I decided to repair it. I know cast iron iron has to be preheated to about 700 degrees before you get a good welding. I think there is a welding repair rod, where you don't need to preheat. Does anybody know the rod number?

Not an expert, but I have arc welded cast iron using a mild steel rod (MG500).  I didn't pre-heat because the air temperature was 80° F that day, but did do a post welding anneal (using an oxyacetylene torch).  Cast iron electrode is designated EC1.

For arc welding, pre-heat temps for cast iron are between 70° and 300° F for ductile, 70° to 600° F for grey and malleable.  IMO controlled cooling is more important to ductility.

If you have enough room (and the equipment), drilling and inserting a steel rod for reinforcement would greatly help the strength of the weld.

 -- Spiff
 
Replaced a gas tank filler hose on a RV. It was so bad the last time I put gas in the tank it all leaked out on the ground in a few days! You can't get these at auto parts stores for RV'S, the best place is a industrial hose supply place. Get hose rated for gasoline and have them cut it to the length of the old one.
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
Not an expert, but I have arc welded cast iron using a mild steel rod (MG500).  I didn't pre-heat because the air temperature was 80° F that day, but did do a post welding anneal (using an oxyacetylene torch).  Cast iron electrode is designated EC1.

For arc welding, pre-heat temps for cast iron are between 70° and 300° F for ductile, 70° to 600° F for grey and malleable.  IMO controlled cooling is more important to ductility.

If you have enough room (and the equipment), drilling and inserting a steel rod for reinforcement would greatly help the strength of the weld.

 -- Spiff

Thanks Spiff, I think the drilling and inserting a steel rod for reinforcement is a great idea. I might even put a steel rod  or a harden bolt on the out side too. Never used the (MG500) rod, read on a welding forum that it lays like butter.
 
Being a 'blob and gob' welder, nothing lays like butter for me  :p 

An outside support will give your weld better support, if you have the room.  Drilling the part requires careful fixturing if alignment is desired.  If you can fit a piece of angle iron, it will give your weld support in two dimensions.

A 'hardened' bolt will not give you any special advantage, as you will loose it's temper during welding and annealing.

 -- Spiff
 
In the past five weeks I have replaced front wheel bearings and sway bar bushings.
Installed new radiator, water pump, thermostat, flex fan, heater core and installed new oil cooler. Also installed new heavier duty rear springs.
Before leaving Arizona I replaced the fuel pump.

Last summer I replaced the idler arm and inner and outer tie rod.

When I got the Van I replaced the engine, air shocks rear, new shocks front, brakes all around with brake cylinders in rear.
Have also installed air/fuel gauge, vacuum gauge, tach and water temp gauge.

Trying to replace anything that is thirty years old.
 
greybeard23 said:
Trying to replace anything that is thirty years old.

Was thinking about doing that too, until I realized that the oldest part of my setup is me  :( 

 -- Spiff
 
great way to do it grey beard. when you are done you will have a reliable vehicle for another 15-20 years. sorry spaceman owner/drivers are not available for your vehicle at this time. highdesertranger
 
I was thinking more about that knee replacement.  Don't think I will be trying to do it myself  :p 

 -- Spiff
 
Replaced rusted and seeping steel transmission cooler lines.

Added  a derale remote trasmission filter and used fram Ultra synthetic XG 16 filter
 Drained and refilled a little over 2 gallons of coolant.  Did not want to pull a freeze plufg for the other 2 gallons.
 
Replaced valvecover gasket.

Looks Like M1- 0w-40 is keeping my engine free of anything remotely resembling sludge.

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Installed new NGK G power spark plugs. Have a new AirteX distibutor cap and Rotor from rockAuto for $12.52 .
I was intrigued by description of botgh Brass and copper contacts.  I was impressed with what arrived:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2062390&cc=1073506&jsn=10585

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In the photo above, the old  spark plug wires are taylor hi-energy 8mm., about 35$ in 2007, about 39$ now. These have been The only set of wires i've put on this van  that lasted more than 2 years. They are likely still good to go for a while longer, but I bought another set of the same.

Have a Fram Ultra XG 8a  oil filter, and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 0w-40 ready to go once both valve cover gaskets are done.  
New Wix airfilter too.
 
I haven't really needed to REPAIR anything except for replacing the front rotors. I could've done it myself, but I was getting new tires and had them do the brakes and pads while they were at it.
 
SternWake said:
These have been The only set of wires i've put on this van  that lasted more than 2 years. They are likely still good to go for a while longer, but I bought another set of the same.

Why such short life from your plug wires? Most vehicles never need them changed.
 
I added washer fluid, aired up the tires, and checked my oil. It's pretty much the only things I have access to in a 2016 pickup, everything else is shrouded in acres of plastic. SO different than my dads old '63 Dodge pickup with an slant six, I could actually stand in the engine compartment of that thing.
 
I, and I'm very proud i thought to do this, i dumped a half a can of sea foam in the john deere gator fuel tank while,,,,,,wait for it,,,,playing DEATH METAL music just like on the car repair shows,,,,and i am absolutely positive it made the difference between success and failure, i can barely wait to clean a spark plug using the same method, success is assured.
 
Lol...oh my!  Just bought my Chevy 3 months ago.   2 month conversion.   Been on road a bit more than a month...here goes
Stalled on highway 5 hours in.  No restart.  Wire popped off distributor.   Fixed on side of road
No start again 4 miles down a fire road in Pisgah national forest.   Taped up a few arcing plug wires no start...cleaned points under distributor  cap...START! 
Changed plug wires with engine still hot  (don't do this)
Cap purchased but never installed  (gonna take it back) points were really dirty
Coming out of the mountains got some vibrations in pedal.   
Changed front pads and rotors
Always had clunk in drive train when coming to hard stop or when getting off brake fast. 
Greased drive shaft yoke today...
Lol...im sure I'm forgetting something 
Haha yup!  Replaced starter in new Mexico after a different no stop situation. 
Thank gosh for my tool box!
E
 
points, points. that would have to be a 1973 or older Chevy. convert that baby to HEI, it's bolt on with factory parts. highdesertranger
 
I tore out the ceiling of my steppie, and the storage unit by the bed, and redid it in hardwood laminate (the ply type, not that compressed sawdust crap). Also built a washroom/storage area. ..Willy.DSCN0138.JPGDSCN0139.JPGDSCN0141.JPG
 

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