What did you, yourself, Repair recently?

[Spirituallifetime]

Must be nice to be someplace or have someplace where you can work!

I keep looking out the window at the snow and ice (and rainstorms earlier this week) and the BWMP (named it the Big White Money Pit for now...lol) and know that nothing is getting fixed or installed until spring!

All I'm doing is chalking up the dollars on the shopping list and bookmarking suppliers...sigh!!

The list keeps getting longer!

I got lucky so I could do the work on the pickup in between snow and rain storms!

 

[user 2252]

One assumes you're working on an engine? *grin*

That is correct Seraphim, 1988 305 cid. Both heads were cracked. The previous owner overheated it due to a bad radiator and water pump. The cracks were at a center head bolt, wasn't leaking coolant into the crankcase, but enough to trickle into the combustion chamber to set off a puff of white smoke on start up and top off the coolant level once a week. I purchased the vehicle in Florida, replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat and drove it to NY and SD and back to NY. My previous posts describe other repairs I made.

 

[FortWorthVanNoob]

I replaced a tie rod end and adjuster sleeve which was surprisingly easy but then you have to get your wheels aligned which costs $75. Do you need special equipment for this? I know that they used lasers but surely there is a cheap way to do it yourself.

I replaced both front rotors as they were too heavily scored to use. That was a real pain because I had to separate the hub from the rotor by hammering out the lugs. Then you need to degrease the bearings and the grease them. The hardest part was getting the hub seated to the rotor without a press. Luckily I had just bought a impact wrench so what I did was put the hub and rotor back onto the van and just wrenched it until they were flat against each other.

I then changed the brakes on the front. The rear drum brakes looked OK so I left them on. Not sure how you're supposed to change those I'm hoping it's not too complicated.

 

[SternWake]

You can measure precisely and try and get the new tie rod to the same depth as the old. How much are your tires worth to you?

Overtightening or uneven tightening of rims to rotors is a major cause of rotor warpage and pulsing brakes.

I use a torque wrench in 3 stages/ 75 90 then 100 Lb/Ft.

Pretty easy to do drums. Hit each drum with half a can of brakecleen. Take pics. A special tool helps remove and return springs easily. So much better than a flat head screwdriver or vice grips. Wear eye protection anyway. Better to use new springs, hardware kits are about 12$. U tube likely has a video. There is not that much difference between drums.

 

[highdesertranger]

if you have to press your lugs to get the rotor off and on you are supposed to install new lugs. you can kinda align it yourself, but you would be lucky to get it right you might get it close but that's it and close doesn't cut it. highdesertranger

 

[FortWorthVanNoob]

@sternwake I'm wishing I had bought an adjustable impact wrench. Mine is the 300ftlb kobalt corded. Works good but I have to let off the trigger otherwise it's too powerful.

@highdesertranger I counted threads to get it close enough to drive it to the alignment shop. Do you know what the reasoning is behind replacing the lugs?

 

[Oberneldon]

Google "DIY front end alignment" there are lots of articles. I know that people that race cars do their own alignments using some basic tools and attention to detail. One site among many...
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/hrdp-0411-wheel-alignment-guide/

Guy

Your brave to take this on. The cost of new tires would scare me away from a DIY alignment.

 

[cdiggy]

All you need to adjust the toe in is a good steel tape measure. Camber can be done with a electronic level and you can get pretty close to factory specs, but caster is the one that I have to haul the thing down to the allignment shop for, especially my moho, just couldn't get it right!

Yes. I used a six foot folding ruler with a metal slide built into it for my 88 f150 4wd. Got it real close. Doesn't matter with those old ford ifs front ends anyway.... The best alignment machine in the world can't dial those in 100%

 

[concretebox]

Yesterday I replaced a bad wheel stud. Pretty easy except the brake drum was rusted on. A liberal application of liquid wrench and several smacks with a sledge hammer and it came off. Getting the old wheel stud out was as easy as whacking it with a hammer a few times. Putting the new one in was easy too. Just slide it in and use the lug nut to pull it into place.

And just today I fixed the 12v outlet on my car. The panel just pops out. The fusable link on the back side had failed, so I replaced it with a hunk of 14 AWG and put it back in, easy-peasy.

 

[highdesertranger]

the reason for replacing the stud is the serrations on the shoulder. they are meant to form to the hole and hold tight. once you press it back out the overall diameter is a little smaller, so when you press it in a new drum/rotor it might not get the press fit it should have. later down the road you might spin the stud while removing or tightening the lug nut, depending on what rim you have this could turn into a big headache. highdesertranger

 

[Spirituallifetime]

I think I might have the Astro/Safari van back on the road! It blow the intake manifold gasket. I was quoted $1000 at a shop to replace it. I had a mechanic I knew do the work for much less since I didn't have time to do a big job like that, but when he got the gasket done and was putting every thing back together the power steering pump pulley would not go on all the way so it was off by 1/8" and eating up the belt. I found out he broke the tool putting on inside the pump shaft. I bought a new pump and pulley and another mechanic I knew offered to put it on, he had the same problem and couldn't get it on all the way! So I figured I'm going to have to do it myself, I rented a pulley puller and installer tool and took the pulley off cleaned it up and then put WD-40 on the installer tool so it could handle the pressure then got out my 1/2" ratchet and ratcheting box wrench and went to town on it. Had it on several minutes later finished putting the van back together and took it for a test drive. So far it's working!

 

[ccbreder]

@sternwake I'm wishing I had bought an adjustable impact wrench. Mine is the 300ftlb kobalt corded. Works good but I have to let off the trigger otherwise it's too powerful.

For impact wrench, you can get socket extensions that "give" at a set torque. That helps prevent uneven, over tightened lugs. Using these, you can still over tighten if you put your mind to it.

 

[highdesertranger]

good job spirituallifetime. you did the job that 2 so called mechanics couldn't do. highdesertranger

 

[Spirituallifetime]

Thanks highdesertranger!
Well now 1 day later the radiator is leaking so I still have more work to do before I can drive it. I've had better luck with cars that I bought for $500.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

i took a sawzall to mudflaps the guy had installed with ridiculous amount of rivets and now rusted bolts...the flaps were on the FRONT and rubbed the tires. after about thirty minutes of wrestling a third rusty bolt...it was choppin time lol

 

[karl]

Finally got around to rewiring headlights with relays and 12 ga wire-  they are even brighter than expected.
Did the same for the driving lights too.

Also wired a relay into the light switch to disconnect lights when the ignition is off....who knew there was a separate feed for all the running lights????  'nuther relay in order I guess.

Made a vented box with weatherstripped latching lid under the bed for my propane tank. 

 

[NWShortyFord]

Recently...hmm. Well, I guess that is in the last 6 months. I changed the engine oil and replaced the drivers side rear brake cylinder...For a 40 year old truck that ain't bad.

 

[mconlonx]

Shoveled snow. This, to merely park at Safe Spot.

Joined a local Makerspace and am currently making machinist buttons on a '42 South Bend lathe, for use regarding future projects involving a Bridgeport milling machine.

Gathered up the trash in a weekly fit of cleansing. Replaced wipers and lubricated wiper hinges, which was the difference between seeing and not, recently. Continuing adjustment of hammock underinsulation based on spring clip attachement...

Building sugar shack/tiny home on hold on account of nearly 4' standing snow, and below zero temps.

Weak sauce. More chore than repair, but necessary.

 

[SternWake]

I'd forgotten about this thread.

About a month ago, I opened up my engine computer, removed the silicone potting behind my one troublesome connector, and reflowed/added some solder to the 14 separate connections with a new Weller 140 watt soldering gun acquired specifically for this task.

I have not suffered a stall or stutter since. I reflowed the solder on my old original engine computer too as some pins were loose, but this ECM still has issues and needs to be rebuilt so I have a backup unit, as it is not as if I can just walk into a parts store and order another.

A few days ago I went to run some errands in the evening, and my brake lights did not work.
Inspected glass fuse, appeared fine. Tested fuse, tested fine. Removed fuse tested fine, installed new fuse anyway, and brake lights now worked.
After returning from errands, broke out the superbright headlamp and inspected fuse holder. it was white and as gritty as 320 grit sandpaper with oxidation. My Deoxit d100 did not make a dent in this oxidation. I honed a precision screwdriver into a mini Chisel and chipped, scraped out all oxidation from all 10 fuse holders. Then I bent some 600 grit sandpaper over 2 q tips, soaked in Deoxit D5, and polished them all to gleaming oiled chrome status. Same to the glass fuse ends.

All got a coat of DeOxit Shield applied before the fuses were snapped home.

While in this area with a lot of light I looked closely at my blower motor resistor. The connector was stuck on. Some D5 spray and some leverage removed it, and revealed rusted and overheated contacts. Surprisingly it still worked before, and I just cleaned it up and snapped the connector home, but I basically need a new resistor and will replace the blower motor too as it is old and making noises when cold, and current draw has increased by 3amps over the last year.

So, those of you with pre 94 dodge Vans with the glass fuses under the glove box, pull out any 20 amp glass fuse, and inspect the interior of the fuse holders with a strong light. You just might find some oxidation, and eliminating it could eliminate future issues.

 

[GrantRobertson]

I bolted the front-left hub back onto my son's car, as it had come completely loose, even losing one bolt. He had wondered what that grinding noise was when he turned.