TMG's Van Thread! (Picture-heavy.)

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janncoo said:
Wow! That looks great. I have a small area I am working on and hope it looks as good. Jan

Thanks. The challenge with spray paint is to make everything even. Many light coats, never heavy, and a fine sanding in between. When in doubt, flat is easiest to blend. :)


I also painted the front bumper and plastic piece under the wiper arms. They were pretty faded gray. I only gave them a quick flat black spray. Can see the difference comparing pictures from page 1 vs the ones I just posted.
 
Added some louvered vents for my overcab sleeping area.
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....and on the inside of those vents is a 120mm case fan on each side. Creates a nice steady breeze in that area for sleeping. Also the holes are trimmed out with toilet flanges because that's my style.
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Also relocated one of the light fixtures into my overcab sleeping area. Dunno why they wouldn't have included on there. Using white LED bulbs of course.
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Added fans to the top of my absorption fridge to help it out.
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This switch controls the fans from the inside.
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Some of you may have seen my roof ladder in another thread. I especially enjoy this feature. I built it such that after climbing up there two people can rest their feet on the rails and sit on the "roof deck." Made of PVC board and aluminum square tube.
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Anyone else have one of these pop-up board things made of particle board? Throw it right in the trash.
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I replaced it instead with the largest plastic cutting board I could find at WalMart. Around $11 I think. Now I have more space, can cut directly on it, and no foolish trim to create a lip at the edge.
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Always use all vertical space! Use horizontal space only for what can't be made to stay vertical.
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...and a pellet rifle just because.

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Okay that's it for this round.
 
Rattle can job. I've used several and I prefer the Rustoleum 2x line for both metal and plastic. I used satin "blossom white" on the hood and synthetic steel wool in between coats.
 
Hmmn.  Regarding your bedroom vents, how do you plan to seal them when it gets cooler?

Regards
John
 
Optimistic Paranoid said:
Hmmn.  Regarding your bedroom vents, how do you plan to seal them when it gets cooler?

Regards
John

This was a consideration I deliberated upon for some time. After not coming up with a design that pleased me, I came to three conclusions:

1) **** it, build something that works now.
2) Plan to never be somewhere cold (that is my plan).
3) If it does get cold, cram some towels behind that fan or remove 4 screws and rustle up a piece of board at least 4" wide.....


FYI there is a 1" gap between that fan and the toilet flange. I find that the computer fan pushes much more air that way even with a 4" hole behind it. When pressed directly against that hole with no gap the airflow drops quite noticeably. In other words, in a pinch, I could cram towels/insulation behind the fans without removing them.

masterplumber said:
So what's wrong with toilet flanges for trim? ;)


Not a thing.  :D  I quite enjoy them.
 
Oh yes, and, also not evident in the pictures: Fiberglass window screening is installed between the louvered vents and the fiberglass shell to keep bugs out.
 
If you do ever need to close off the vents, go to a plumbing supply store and ask for 4'' temp caps. They're white plastic wafers with an edge that normally glue into the toilet flange for testing purposes. They're only a little over a 1/4'' deep so they'll slide behind your fans easy peasy and friction will hold them in place. And they'll look like they belong there.
 
Oh look, batteries.

Now time to figure out how to fit them where my battery box is taking up all that space. :D
 

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Current battery box. Now how to make it fit two batteries....
 

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Ah here we are. Opened like with a can opener.
 

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I cleaned up that sharp edge, wrapped it in duct tape, and folded it over, for a lazy fix. See old 12v marine battery inside.
 

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Look at that, two batteries fit now.
 

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Gotta ask - how was the battery box supposed to be opened up for service and replacing the battery?
 
Almost There said:
Gotta ask - how was the battery box supposed to be opened up for service and replacing the battery?

From outside access. The picture was taken from underneath the rear bench seats, which were permanent fixtures when I bought the van. I removed the tops of the bench seats and made them into hinged openings so that I can work on systems from within the van.

There's a louvered door to the battery box on the outside which I left untouched. So the battery is still vented, although obviously not sealed within that space. But I think the risk from battery off-gassing and escaping up through my bench seats and cushions is minimal.
 
Ahhh, just another 'we didn't think this thing through well' thing on the part of the manufacturer... :rolleyes:
 
Most B's were made to overnight/weekend camp and travel in.  Putting in one battery is a saving's to the manufacturer and buyer.  There is also more storage space with only one battery.

Please use a better battery hold down than those two bungee cords.  Two batteries weigh a lot and would easily snap those bungee cords.  Maybe ratchet straps or copy the original metal traps.

Brian
 
Almost There said:
Ahhh, just another 'we didn't think this thing through well' thing on the part of the manufacturer... :rolleyes:

Oh no, I think the manufacturer thought about it precisely; by sealing off the systems, they both protect themselves from lawsuits by fools getting electrical burns, and also ensure their customers return to dealerships for service.

B and C said:
Most B's were made to overnight/weekend camp and travel in.  Putting in one battery is a saving's to the manufacturer and buyer.  There is also more storage space with only one battery.

Please use a better battery hold down than those two bungee cords.  Two batteries weigh a lot and would easily snap those bungee cords.  Maybe ratchet straps or copy the original metal traps.

Brian

Although not visible in the picture, those batteries are actually blocked up in all four directions. They cannot slide laterally in any direction, and would need to bounce at least 2" in order to gain motion vertically and advance over the blocking. The bungees are just there to ensure they don't become so vertically ambitious.
 
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