The perfect cargo trailer

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Maybe so --I keep bitching about the brakes even when they replaced them and he says "the old Tahoes & Suburbans just have spongy brakes."
He drove a Tahoe for years so I figured maybe he knew something. I will have my other guy check it out. Thanks. t
 
highdesertranger said:
here's mine,

https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=36102

I'm not done with the build,  in fact i need to update the thread.  it's big 8x8x24.  i did not buy this on a whim it took several years of planning different layouts.  I am still changing the layout as i build.

highdesertranger
Yep, mine is similar,...only because I've got a 2006 Duramax Express 2500 to pull it.
1dU6SYP.jpg

I'm able to fit my Polaris 500 Sportsman quad in the back and still have a comfortable living space AND a porch. Not yet done converting it, but I'll get there.
2GOidex.jpg
 
These big rigs are awesome to look at! Any pics with the interior finished? I would not be competent to tow or back that.
To High Desert Ranger: Any comments you could share on the advantages of the rear barn doors over rear ramp. I see Pleasant Travels
has the stretch nose ramp--nice!
 
I have the ramp because I have the atv. This trailer was originally designed for snowmobiles;...drive in the back, drive out the front. But my atv can back out, so my plan is to utilize the front ramp on the V-nose as a patio. It is a slightly steeper ramp anyway, when deployed fully down, so less friendly to use than the rear one. It came already insulated, which is nice.

Barn doors vs. ramp doors or roll up doors have a better seal against dust (assuming the weatherstripping is in good shape). Roll up doors are notoriously NOT well sealed against the ingress of dust. Ramp doors are better, but barn doors work just a bit better still. That can be very important if you spend a lot of time on dirt roads.

Also, Ranger's barn doors and the entire trailer really just have a better industrial camoflauge to it all, and therefor better at stealth if need be. You could park that in an industrial park, and as long as the tow vehicle blends in and doesn't give it away, it would not look out of place. Once mine gets a newer coat of paint, I'm going to add a ladder to the side and maybe a fake company logo,...just to allow that sort of ruse.
 
trailer-t said:
Maybe so --I keep bitching about the brakes even when they replaced them and he says "the old Tahoes & Suburbans just have spongy brakes."
He drove a Tahoe for years so I figured maybe he knew something.  I will have my other guy check it out. Thanks.    t
A few things can make brakes "spongy" If you have not replaced all of your brake fluid in the last 5 years, I would start there. Moisture can get into the fluid over time. When the moisture gets hot it turns to steam. Steam is a gas so it will compress.

Have a mechanic bleed the brakes from the bottom up it could be the way the lines are routed there is a space for an air bubble to be trapped. I would actually bleed wherever I could open the lines , (like at the pressure differential switch).

There are rubber hoses that connect the lines to the wheels. Maybe these are getting weak and bulging when pressure is applied. You can replace them with metal braided hoses, (they have a plastic tube inside of them). new rubber ones are cheaper and could do as well. I had a motorcycle with spongy brakes. When I changed from rubber to metal braided they were fine.
 
Sometimes there is a device called a proportioning valve that may not be sending enough pressure to the rear brakes. The front do most of the work, but the rear do help.  If you have drum brakes on the back also check the self adjusters. Many times they do not work well. Driving in reverse at low speed then putting on the brake firmly is supposed to make them work.

The front brakes are usually disk type I would check to see if the pads are retracting too much once the brake is released. They should just barely rub on the metal disk. There is a cup type of seal inside of the master cylinder that is supposed to allow fluid to go past itself to compensate for pad wear. If the pads have to travel any distance to start grabbing the disk, then part of your foot travel will be used up doing that. As soon as you press on the brakes you should start to feel resistance from the pads squeezing the rotor.

Lots of things to check, but there should be a fix. I would not settle for that is just the way they are.
 
i got the barn doors because basically I don't like ramp doors. with barn doors I can partially open them or I can open only one or both. in other words I have options.

also I built a storage box on the floor in the rear, it's 8' x 8' x 2' tall so a ramp door wouldn't work anyway. I park my 4 wheeler on top of the box. I also already had real nice aluminum ramps. i need to update my build thread and show the box.

highdesertranger
 
Riverman said:
For one person.... a  6 x 12 , which is around 1200# and pretty easy to tow. A larger one will require more truck and gas to tow it. Anything less will seem pretty small after a few weeks of use, or if it rains for days and you are stuck inside. I bought a 6 x 12 and am happy with it.
I am the same.
 
TMooney said:
Looks like I need to do some weight scenarios.  I'm going to open up a little bit here because I havent helped. I need to do that I apologize. I'm going to live in it . I want it big enough for a shower.  I'm going to  need a water holding tank inside .batteries for solar. Counter top cabinet to cook on. Gas bottle. Storage I'm not concerned . I'll put it where it fits. Small and large compressor freezers. I want a tv . Can be on wall. Queen size bed would be nice but might not get it. I'll be free camping BLM  forestry or state parks  on discount.  Dry camping. I'm wanting 30 gallons of water . Might not be able to. I love quick showers.
I live in a V nose 6 x 12. Have done for a year. Something that I have found to be a blessing and a curse is my chair. Somewhere I read someone saying that if you can possibly manage it get a recliner. I took that advice to heart. So I designed the trailer around a $200 recliner. The recliner is great, it is comfortable, good for naps and just generally makes the place feel like home. Trouble is that it is pretty big and heavy. A recliner is easily 100lbs. I struggle to keep everything around 2000lbs. 
The bed is a floor to ceiling cabinet / horizontal murphy bed.
The kitchen is built into the V nose. I carry 19 gallons of water. I have a 700 watt microwave, a toaster oven, coffee pot and an electric kettle. I have to be careful how I power that stuff.
Water is 8lbs per gallon. Then there is its distribution. You have to be careful with that. 
I have a 32" flat screen TV that I have on a swing mount on the wall. Normally it sits at 90 degrees and with the recliner tilted I am about 5 or 6 feet from the screen. It is a great place to watch TV. Like the cinema. 
Can I make a suggestion on the gas bottle? Yes, I know they come in different sizes, mine is a regular 20lb bottle. The usual kind. It was originally bought for a Mr Heater. I don't use it anymore. I use the 1lb green bottles and refill them. Hot water comes from a countertop gas heater and takes the 1lb bottles. Cooking is the butane flat single burner stove top. Everything I have mentioned evolved through bitter experience. Butane is more controllable than propane. You might well find that you don't need a great big space taking propane bottle. 
For winter heating I use a small electric fire. The generator can handle it. No fumes, no condensation. I use 3. The main one is 1500 watts with 2 positions. The lower setting is 700 watts and it has a thermostat. That is more than enough and does not use that much electricity that it trips the gen. Insulation is your friend. I have 2 other fires a 500 watt and a 250 watt. The 500 watt also has a thermostat and is very efficient. I mix and match using the least amount possible. It is not an issue.
You will have to make an extended run fuel line though to run a small gen. I have a Honda 2000 which gives 1625 watts.      
I have a dorm style fridge just like a small kitchen. You do not need to spend the kind of money Dometic want on a compressor 'box'. They are nice but pricey. I have been using this $120 4.4 cubic foot job since August 2012. Non stop!!
My shower came this year. It is made from soldered 1/2" copper pipe. Mounted to the ceiling with 'bell mounts'. I use 2 regular shower fabric curtains from Walmart. The tub is a good sized plastic tote from Home Depot. It doubles for storage. I am glad to have a hot shower but there is nothing quick about it. I plan on getting a double shower tent and setting it up permanently. Much better.
I would love to swap tips and ideas with you. I truly believe that an enclosed cargo trailer is the best bang for your buck available. Although a nice Sprinter does seem like a nice idea OR, my favorite, a shuttle bus conversion. Good luck and I hope it is everything you wanted.
 
Pleasant Travels said:
Yep, mine is similar,...only because I've got a 2006 Duramax Express 2500 to pull it.
I'm able to fit my Polaris 500 Sportsman quad in the back and still have a comfortable living space AND a porch. Not yet done converting it, but I'll get there.
I LOVE IT!!
 
trailer-t said:
To TMoony,
Here are a couple of pics to give an example of what can  fit in a large single axel (7 x 12 + v) no-build  cargo trailer.   It is pretty well maxed out for space when
hauling the motorcycle and the other stuff that goes outside.   Please ignore the upright water tank --that is not a
correct way to install or use.  If it is not necessary to haul something, the layout could be improved to maximize living space.
I totally relate to what you have done here. I deliberately bought a ramp model to make a deck. Since purchase I have been totally rethinking my decision. I still want a deck but I need a wall like you have. The AC is mounted up front, in the V, but I have a million uses for a 'garage area'. To start with expanded electrical - batteries +++. Water storage too. Maybe tools. At the moment I use the minivan and the rooftop cargo carrier for junk. Tools, extra food, spare wheel and so on. It is so good to see what others have done. I especially like your deck step up. Very nice.
 
To izifaddag:
A cargo trailer is a blank slate until it is built out --then it is what it is-- until it is torn back apart.. I try to Plan ! Then Plan again!! Then I still tear it apart.

The ramp deck is a nice cheap way to get some square footage off the ground and some shade if you have an EZ-UP shelter.
t
 
My preference would be a single axle 7x12 with a V-nose. I can get by with a 6' interior, and use lightweight (thinner), cabinets, insulation, and flooring. I probably wouldn't have alot of built-ins so I could use the trailer for other things. My Kawasaki KLR 250 only weighs 250#. You could honestly put some heavy items (batteries/propane tanks) in the front tongue areas to allow the tow vehicle to handle some additional weight. It's always a good idea to upgrade your tires to something that will handle more weight also.
 
It's not just tires, bearings come to mind and then there is the trailer structure itself. There is not just one item that makes for a weight rating. You also have to stop it. Most 1/2 tons probably aren't up to the task in a panic situation without trailer brakes.
 
If anyone wonders, you can add trailer brakes on a single axle trailer according to
the people I talked to for a few hundred bucks installed. Will be doing that on mine this summer.
 
Typical 3500# idler axles do not have the brake backing plates.

You can add brakes to a single axle trailer IF the brake backing plates are on the axle, otherwise those must be welded on, or the axle swapped.

That's exactly what I did, ordered a new axle with brakes and hubs, removed the old idler axle, installed the new one with brakes, and swapped the wheels. Of course I had to add the wiring and change the trailer pigtail...all the stuff you expect.
 
Mine is an Arising with 3500 lb axle. The dealer from Mo. said he could add them on without a new axle--he could be wrong.
I also talked to a local guy that is a welder that manufactured trailers for years and he said he could do it but I don't know the details of
the welding involved. New wiring is required for the brakes and plug. If the axle was going be upgraded to 5100 lbs (or whatever) -with brakes-
then the cost estimate got into the $800-1000 range with bigger 6 lug wheels etc--then I would just sell it, and just go for a new tandem t
 
Speaking of cargo trailers. Several of the dealers I've been checking have low inventory.

CarryOn trailers at Trailersplus in Tucson,Phoenix and El Paso and also Waco Bill in Terrell,TX are in short supply. At least in the 6x12 size I've been considering.
 
^
Thanks for the tip. I'm looking for one with extra height and barn doors. So no Happy Sale at this time.

I was ready to take the plunge back in March and head up into Utah. Or was going to buy a trailer in El Paso and do the NM state parks seasonal pass deal. All held up by COVID.

I'm closest to Tucson, so I had been looking there and in Phoenix. The PHX dealer had slightly lower prices and more inventory.

I've been refitting my van to be self-contained and plan to head into some very mountainous areas of AZ,NM and CO so for now I'm going to put off pulling a trailer with my old van.
 

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