Need advice on what Solar system equip to buy

[gapper2]

Susan,

  I don't want to hinder your thought process.  But I believe these batteries are FLA.  And are great for most but do you have a place for these in that beautiful van?  Have you dealt with sulfuric mist before when overcharging?  If you have a good place, these are great.


  By the way the blackjack underlayment came in and is just what I was looking for.  Thank you very much.

gapper2

 

[tx2sturgis]

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...p-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:7

I think these are the batteries that Bob and the others have been referring to

I think its a much better idea to use AGM batteries inside a dwelling/sleeping area than the flooded or wet batteries. Of course, the AGM batteries will usually cost more.

Keep in mind, the amazon prices probably include the 'core' charge, but if you buy locally they likely will add that fee... I think its probably around 5 bucks depending on what state you are in. Just so you wont be surprised at the check-out counter.

What method will you be using to physically secure or contain the batteries?

 

[Hermes1]

A good battery, great price. The one concern I see is, I understand you are fitting out a van where typically AGM batteries would be better suited, due to the fact AGM's do not out gas so can be housed inside your van. The batteries you link to are traditional lead acid. Nothing inherently wrong as lead acid have had a long history of providing great performance, offer a lot of bang for the buck, function very well & typically have a few more amp hours than AGM's. The big downside is because they out gas, they must be housed in a properly ventilated container and the maintenance involved. Not insurmountable, but must be considered.

 

[VagaboundSusan]

[size=small][font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep...[/font]


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[img=401x381]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71Fi9Y5XXUL._SL1000_.jpg[/img][/SIZE]
These are 168 each on Amazon and are sealed. The core charge in my area is 18.50 per battery and being such a small higher income/tourist town, prices are fairly high around here. Even if I was to purchase from Sam's it would involve a rather long drive and membership. I would prefer sealed batteries giving me more options for placement and peace of mind. I have 2 places primed for installation: right side of kitchen cabinet  or right side of couch which has dividing wall and a space of 22" x 22" with area close by both for mounting hardware.

 

[John61CT]

AGMs should also vented, not as robust or long-lived, more precise charging requirements, cost a lot more.

Good quality ones are Northstar, Odyssey and Lifeline.

 

[Hermes1]

From an AGM Battery info and Tech page

AGM Batteries

A VRLA battery (valve-regulated lead–acid battery), more commonly known as a sealed battery or maintenance free battery, is a type of lead-acid rechargeable battery. Due to their construction, they do not require ventilation, can be mounted in any orientation, and do not require constant maintenance. The reduced venting is an advantage since they can be used in confined or poorly ventilated spaces

 

[John61CT]

Yes, there is a lot of misinformation on the internet.

They do vent **less**. The vapor once outgassed, results in fluid loss that **cannot** be replaced, one of the reasons you have to be a lot more careful not to overcharge them, and why FLA last longer (just replace water if needed).

Another huge disadvantage is you need fancy expensive electronic gear to figure out if they are getting charged properly - and their lifespan is shortened more drastically by not getting them to full.

While FLA stand up to noob abuse very well, if you do care to make them last as long as possible, a cheap hydrometer is all you need to get an accurate measure of State of Charge.

The only reason I would advise AGM to a beginner on a budget is if the space required mounting sideways or made access to the caps impractical.

Or if you need very high-amps charge acceptance rate charging to minimize generator runtime.

Firefly Oasis are also very resilient if PSOC abuse can't be avoided, but cost $500+ per 100AH.

 

[akrvbob]

I think they sell them as AGM but you may have to order them and have them delivered to your local store.

 

[John61CT]

From SternWake: I have a Northstar battery and have a high opinion of it, but it is a demanding battery which would not behave well if not treated right.

More detailed AGM rec's here

https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?pid=275392#pid275392

Bottom line is go ahead and spend the extra if you like, but then make sure you're treating them right, which will take a lot more attention knowledge and expensive infrastructure.

A simple boxed enclosure with a vent hole to outside is really not a big deal.

 

[VagaboundSusan]

Again, I would like to thank everyone that helped me by posting on this thread and contributing to this forum. :heart:

Just made my first purchase of the future setup, 1 x 180 watt panel (not a kit) from Solar Bvld on Ebay for $175.00. This panel fits perfectly sideways across my van (room for more later) and with the tilting brackets should give me a good start.

My next purchase will be the CTEK250S and Smartpass this will allow me to charge my house batteries multiple ways including the built in Mttp monitor that is built in for solar hook up.

I am still on the fence about the battery choices but will go with what my budget/needs will allow.

Whoo hoo, cannot wait until this project is behind me. I am dreaming about fricking 6v and solar.

 

[John61CT]

CTEK250S and Smartpass this will allow me to charge my house batteries multiple ways including the built in Mttp monitor that is built in for solar hook up.

This may be overkill for your needs, by that I mean an intelligent B2B DC-DC charger in general. And relatively a inexpensive design change can eliminate the need for the Smart pass piece, even if you stick to the 250S.

And wrt that unit, the B2B part works well, and CTEK in general makes fine gear.

However I have come across multiple reports in different forums by knowledgeable posters, that they did not get good results from the Solar MPPT part of the 250S, not nearly the total output they got from quality dedicated SCs like Victron, Morningstar Outback etc

Hopefully a member with both types can chime in to dispel or confirm this caution.

Or if you decide to forego the CTEK after discussing the former design issue above, post or link to the detailed specs (Voc, lsc, lmp etc) on your panel and we can suggest an alternative quality solar controller. For example, if the Victron 75/15 can handle it, very solid, full-featured at well under $100.

If you get your batteries and basic test instruments, order the 250S and other SC from a source with an excellent returns policy, we could walk you through doing an A/B test, and it would only cost you return shipping on one unit.

Plus, you'd learn a lot in the process, priceless.

Unless you don't enjoy those DC electric dreams

 

[WalkaboutTed]

I have both the CTEK d250s and the Smartpass. I use the mppt input on the CTEK for my portable panel and have a Blue Sky 3000i charge controller for my permantly mounted panels.

I'm happy with the CTEK units, but there are two main caveats. Make sure the panels you put on them are no more than 23VOC. You'll fry the machine otherwise. Also, be aware that the absorption and float voltages (14.4V and 13.7V, respectively) are not user configurable. The Blue Sky charge controller is completely customizable. I have the UPG 121000 batteries and their happy places have substantially higher voltages. Not that they're any happier as the batteries have been baking in 100-110F since May, here in Tucson.

The non-programmable settings don't really make much difference for most people. I just happened to be schooled in the ways of the legendary Sternwake. I have no life and my husband laughs that I watch my batteries and solar status like most people watch TV.

One good thing about CTEK is that they personally stand behind their product. The first d250s that I bought through Amazon had the mppt input nonfunctional. I had an email exchange with the company headquarters in Sweden and they sent me a new one pronto.

Congrats and good luck!
Ted

 

[John61CT]

Ted, have you ever done an A/B test comparing total power output between the two, keeping panel and other factors constant?

It would be great if the low-efficiency reports I've read was a QA issue since corrected, rather than something more fundamental.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

John,
Given that we can not completely control the variables of time and sun, yes, I did do a half-assed comparison with my clamp multimeter. The numbers were roughly the same. I ended up getting the second charge controller when I decided that I wanted to increase my solar from 100w to 500w and I wanted to indulge my neuroses of micromanaging my absorption and float voltages. Dedicating the CTEK to my portable panel fit my parameters, as the BlueSky has a 400w limit. I joke that I'll use the CTEK for my future wind turbine.
Ted

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Susan,
I should read the entire threads before I post, but I didn't. If you bought that 180watt panel from Solar Blvd, DO NOT buy the CTEK d250s! That panel is 23.68VOC! If you are going to be in the mountains in the winter, you will go over that voltage (complicated, but take my word for it). And the CTEK d250s is only rated for 23VOC or less.

The reason why I know, is that my hubby is putting three of those panels on his van. He'll be using the CTEK d250s and Smartpass. The mppt of the CTEK will be for his portable panel, same as mine.
Ted

 

[VagaboundSusan]

Susan,
I should read the entire threads before I post, but I didn't. If you bought that 180watt panel from Solar Blvd, DO NOT buy the CTEK d250s! That panel is 23.68VOC! If you are going to be in the mountains in the winter, you will go over that voltage (complicated, but take my word for it). And the CTEK d250s is only rated for 23VOC or less.  

The reason why I know, is that my hubby is putting three of those panels on his van. He'll be using the CTEK d250s and Smartpass.  The mppt of the CTEK will be for his portable panel, same as mine.
Ted

Ted,

Thank you for your help :angel: Your van is what mine wants to be when it grows up..lol I am worried now, the Voc rating for this panel says it is...crap I read the wrong panels info.  Just sent letter to Solar Blvd asking if I can change the panel that was ordered, if not I will be a 2 system woman.

I really do like that 180 panel though with the size being the perfect width.....daydreaming again.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Susan,
Call them tomorrow and ask for Sergio. Remember that they are in California time. I have the 140 watt panels, but the 160w will work, too.
Ted

 

[VagaboundSusan]

Susan,
Call them tomorrow and ask for Sergio. Remember that they are in California time. I have the 140 watt panels, but the 160w will work, too.
Ted

Thank you Ted, I will.

 

[John61CT]

I am worried now, the Voc rating for this panel says it is...crap I read the wrong panels info.  Just sent letter to Solar Blvd asking if I can change the panel that was ordered, if not I will be a 2 system woman.

I really do like that 180 panel though with the size being the perfect width.....daydreaming again.

There's nothing wrong with choosing the solar controllers to suit the panels you want rather than vice-versa.

And if you can set things up so you can skip the SmartPass, or the CTEK B2B altogether, that saves enough you can afford another panel, better quality on another component or a battery monitor, or. . .

 

[RV-Hopeful]

Are you confused yet?

totally and i just happened by ...  :s this is all as clear as mud to me and it leads to be believe that i'm going to request help (someone by my side) in picking out my future solar needs.  it's all too much for my old tired brain to wrap around and i've watched a gazillion videos, read bunches of forums and i'm even more confused.