Need advice on what Solar system equip to buy

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gapper2 said:
Susan,
   Your choices seem wise to me.  I've got AGM, good on the Victron MPPT,  I went roof racks.  Originally I planned 2x4's for the cross rails but as money came in I purchased alum. angle.  I know with so many trying to help, it can get a little overwhelming.  You're doing good!

I stopped by Lowes today to check out the angle vs wood :cool:
 
Have a look for a local supplier of these, maybe need to call home office to ask

Odyssey
Lifeline
Northstar
Rolls/Surette (actually Full River)


You might get lucky, they are all top-notch. It's paying delivery costs that really gets you, which is why I am very suspect of cheap AGMs that have come all the way over from China, then get delivered to your door. Usually much better off picking up, even if it means a bit of driving.

Firefly Oasis is fantastic for withstanding PSOC abuse, which is very common, but you won't get them delivered for less than $500 per 100AH.

Or maybe settle for Duracell/Deka AGM from Sam's or Batteries+, but nothing like the quality of their FLA GCs, much less the five above.

Or something from an industrial source, not just golf, but scrubbers, forklifts etc, that world is likely getting some VLRA/AGM, and is always much more demanding than mass consumer applications.
 
VagaboundSusan said:
I had bought the Solar Blvd panel earlier this week, messed up by reading the wrong size of panel's Voc. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mono-So...646391&hash=item51fa6c0c10:g:2QcAAOSw~rpZSZFm

My intention was to have a panel that works with the CTEK/Smart Pass and this one does not. Would have been perfect and affordable. I could do this panel but it would be separate from the other system.
Well now higher is better since you're stepping up to the 75/15 right?

The CTEK's fine for B2B if you really think you need that (hold off for now), and you can always add a small panel to that later.

Is 64" too long?

https://www.solarblvd.com/products/...b-ul-black-frame-poly-60-cell-pv-solar-panel/

I think getting on the phone to Northern Arizona, SolarBlvd, other trusted vendors, give your maximum length/width dimensions (smaller per watts output is better, Sunpower cells good for that).

Say you want nominal 24V, actually 30+ Voc (60 max) and ideally at least 240W, up to 300/350 even, as long as you're getting the extra watts very cheap.

And always factor the shipping in!

Don't neglect the bigger Renogy option.
 
[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I stopped by Lowes today to check out the angle vs wood [/font]
cool.gif




Susan, 
   I found Lowes too pricy with not much quality.  I got mine at Online Metals.  They have 20% discount coupons.  Wait for one and do a will call to save on shipping.  They probably have a warehouse in Mobile.
 
Hermes1 said:
As a subscript I just noticed in your signature Bob, you have 480 watts of solar, which is in the ballpark where MPPT can make sense, so I totally get why you see the benefit. My response is more directed to the OP who seems to be limited on cash and seems to be leaning towards 200 watts. A PWM wilt only save her money, I simply have not seen the evidence to support MPPT being a better choice for a small solar array.

Not true at all. In 2008 when I bought my first system, it was only a 50 watt panel and it fed into a 25 amp MPPT controller. Common sense told me NOT to buy a controller that threw away 10-35% of all the power my panel produced and to be ready to grow when I could afford it. Back then that 50 watt panel cost $300 and 135 watt panels cost $750. I bought what I could afford.

A year later I bought a 135 watt panel and was very grateful for that controller.

4 years later I bought a 240 watt panel but it was 24 volt (YES it was a 36 volt panel but YES it was designed for a 24 volt system so it is called a 24 volt panel). I had to buy a new controller to handle the 24 volt panel and of course it was a MPPT because common sense hasn't changed and I still didn't want to throw away 10-35% of the power it produced.
 
It looks like you've had plenty of responses, but I'll tell you what I have purchased being a full timer. Renogy 200w starter kit, 750w modified inverter from Schumacher and 2 6v 225ah panasonic golf cart batteries. Total of about $650-$700. So far thus spring/summer, for the most part it has ran everything ok. We have 2 laptops that we charge during the day and run if their batteries at night, all LED lights and a 4cuft electric fridge (about 75w average while the compressor is running) that we shut off at night, but I know we will struggle thus winter being in Oregon. If I had the extra cash, is go another 200w of panels and some kind of wind turbine that can be raised and lowered within a few minutes.

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
 
John61CT said:
Well now higher is better since you're stepping up to the 75/15 right?

The CTEK's fine for B2B if you really think you need that (hold off for now), and you can always add a small panel to that later.

Is 64" too long?

https://www.solarblvd.com/products/...b-ul-black-frame-poly-60-cell-pv-solar-panel/

I think getting on the phone to Northern Arizona, SolarBlvd, other trusted vendors, give your maximum length/width dimensions (smaller per watts output is better, Sunpower cells good for that).

Say you want nominal 24V, actually 30+ Voc (60 max) and ideally at least 240W, up to 300/350 even, as long as you're getting the extra watts very cheap.

And always factor the shipping in!

Don't neglect the bigger Renogy option.

Would this 180 watt panel be a good starting point? The larger sizes limit my options for other panels and fan placement. If it is I could start with this 180 and the MPPT controller, later add on smaller panel with the CTEK as a portable or mounted.
 
Sorry Susan, I don't know which panel you're asking about. I think maybe you missed posting a link?

Ideally future panels will match the one you buy now, and that size will allow for maximum usage of all available roof space less the fan's spot.

Personally since panel availability can end anytime, and shipping is such a high cost, I would buy the whole lot at one time. I realize budget may not allow, just food for thought.
 
John61CT said:
Sorry Susan, I don't know which panel you're asking about. I think maybe you missed posting a link?

Ideally future panels will match the one you buy now, and that size will allow  for maximum usage of all available roof space less the fan's spot.

Personally since panel availability can end anytime, and shipping is such a high cost, I would buy the whole lot at one time. I realize budget may not allow, just food for thought.

John,

Been out and about all day today and did a complete 180 on the batteries :blush: I purchased 2 of these (see below) at Sam's Club today. I got good dates on them 8/17 and sweet talked my way out of the core charge. It's a girl benefit that my old butt will take whenever I get a chance...hehehehe. I also purchased the following panel and will purchase a second one this week giving me 360 wattshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mono-So...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


New Mono Solar Cynergy 180 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel 180 W Watts Monocrystalline

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[color=rgba(66, 66, 66, 0.8)]by Duracell | Item  #: 347700 | Model #:  GC2 |
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Great call on the batts, treat them right they'll last a long time, very forgiving if you don't, plenty of AH and most importantly you can get very precise SoC without an expensive batt monitor.

Panels will work fine with one 75/15 for now, grossly overpaneled though, figure on saving up for the second one later to get another 100+w output in peak conditions.

But you may find you never need it? Like having an extra 100w panel hooked up ready to go when you want for an incremental $100.

Get your wiring done from the beginning for max flexibility, one SC serial or parallel, and also be ready for two SC. That is, if you are still sold on 75/15 one per panel.

Since you have the 12V panels, another option I like, if you do want detailed tracking of SoC and AH in and out, is the Bogart Trimetric, coupled with their SC-2030.

Having the SoC minitor drive the solar controller IMO is so powerful, makes up for the 10-15% you **might** lose going PWM rather than MPPT.

Many will disagree, not a fashionable opinion these days MPPT has largely won the propaganda wars.

This will be simpler wiring, 2 panels in parallel to the one SC.

Sent from my HUAWEI ALE-L04 using Tapatalk
 
[quote pid='323306' dateline='1503111419']

Since you have the 12V panels,  another option I like,  if you do want detailed tracking of SoC and AH in and out, is the Bogart Trimetric,  coupled with their SC-2030.

Having the SoC minitor drive the solar controller IMO is so powerful,  makes up for the 10-15% you **might** lose going PWM rather than MPPT.


[/quote]

Victron BlueSolar 100/30 MPPT Charge Controller - 30 Amps / 100 Volts

I think that this might fit in my budget now. Good?
 
Sure, but I personally prefer 2x the 75/15 if you'd be going parallel, maximum partial shade handling and redundancy at no extra cost.

If serial, then yes greater total output from the 100/30, since voltage is going higher. But really lousy shade handling.

Parallel with the 100/30 would still be fine if you prefer.
 
Goooo Susan!!!  Real progress.  Panels are a good width for the van.  Bats take more abuse and more bang for the buck.  I'm using my panels for max roof coverage for shade and to capture more sun for those many cloudy days back east.  Now purchase and practice with hydrometer.  Wear old clothes, you'll get holes.  Good for you!!
 
John61CT said:
Sure, but I personally prefer 2x the 75/15 if you'd be going parallel, maximum partial shade handling and redundancy at no extra cost.

If serial, then yes greater total output from the 100/30, since voltage is going higher. But really lousy shade handling.

Parallel with the 100/30 would still be fine if you prefer.

Can both controllers be ran with the one blue tooth dongle? Need to figure out where and how I would mount.
 
BTW whenever possible buy direct from vendor's website rather than giving Amazon/eBay a cut
 
John61CT said:
Great call on the batts, treat them right they'll last a long time,  very forgiving if you don't, plenty of AH and most importantly you can get very precise SoC without an expensive batt monitor.

Panels will work fine with one 75/15 for now, grossly overpaneled though,  figure on saving up for the second one later to get another 100+w output in peak conditions.

But you may find you never need it? Like having an extra 100w panel hooked up ready to go when you want for an incremental $100.

Get your wiring done from the beginning for max flexibility, one SC serial or parallel,  and also be ready for two SC. That is,  if you are still sold on 75/15 one per panel.

Since you have the 12V panels,  another option I like,  if you do want detailed tracking of SoC and AH in and out, is the Bogart Trimetric,  coupled with their SC-2030.

Having the SoC minitor drive the solar controller IMO is so powerful,  makes up for the 10-15% you **might** lose going PWM rather than MPPT.

Many will disagree,  not a fashionable opinion these days MPPT has largely won the propaganda wars.

This will be simpler wiring, 2 panels in parallel to the one SC.

Sent from my HUAWEI ALE-L04 using Tapatalk
I agree on the Bogart 2030 monitor & Sc30 Pwm.  Awesome combo and will out perform many MPPT IN fact I know 2 folks with that combo who have done side by side comparisons with 2 different MPPT and the 2030 outperformed them.  I also agree with your comment on "MPPT propaganda".
 
MPPT is just a different way of doing it and needs to be understood. Instead of seeing the two types of systems as warring factions we should be looking at them as what they are, options with different positives and negatives for each. Many of the reasons against small system MPPT have gone out the window since you could get a MPPT controller for $100 or less and that happened 5 years ago with the release of the Eco-worthy 20a MPPT controller. It is that controller and now several more that make some of the blogs like Handy Bob's outdated. At the time the cost of a MPPT controller made the advantage too costly to make it worth while. A extra panel would add more power for the money and even now should be a consideration when looking at a system. Now you can affordably squeeze every last amp out of your system and not break the bank while charging yours.





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