Finally got my van

[max+sophia]

changing the headlights to LED is a bad idea IMO.  for one thing is against the law

 
Thanks for the heads up on LED Headlights, Mike

<a href="http://betterautomotivelighting.com/2013/04/20/are-led-headlights-legal/"><b>Interesting info available</b></a>

Better Automotive Lighting says
"It’s a safe bet that if your headlights are rated as “DOT approved” then yes they are legal to use"

Amazon seems to carry a LED headlight kit.  My computer is about to crash or I'd provide the link.  For kits, search duckduckgo.com asking Are LED Headlights Legal.

Mike is there a lighting thread where this info should go?

 

[QinReno]

... zombie apocalypse rig.

I think there is a community image starting to form. Not quite SnowBunny-ish. 

Every rig has to have a public name and also a private name, the latter known only to the owner, like "Rosebud". I've just been calling my van the blasé "Metal Tent" since day-one, as it's not much more than that. Its private name, however, shall remain private - no one would believe it, after all.

 

[HalfShadows]

1/2 - I hope you kept your aviation jacket. You should wear it while driving that apocalypse rig. Very cool.

Hi Liv. Haven't worn an aviation Jacket for years. Their not the best. I was able to purchase my own flight wear and get reimbursed. When I flew on Hawks I would wear Eddie Bauer believe it or not, they hold up to a lot and very warm. Flying at higher altitudes you will freeze especially in winter. I had an Eddie Bauer for ten years and not a scratch (got to keep my clothing allowance money as well).Bought another Just before I quit in January. I will be wearing it in Snow Bunny. Don't know where my old aviation gear is, might of got tossed.

 

[HalfShadows]

changing the headlights to LED is a bad idea IMO.  for one thing is against the law and LED's are very easy for LEO's to spot so it makes for an easy excuse to pull you over.  plus the quality is all over the place,  I have never heard of a reliable company for LED's

what most people do with older Chevy's for the headlights is to rewire the headlight system.  this is a straight forward modification an makes a huge difference in brightness.  several companies make kits to do this.

at the moment I run the Sylvania Super Bright's and I don't notice a shorten life span.   I have a set of Cibie lenses that that take replaceable H-4 bulbs that I will be installing,  also illegal but a lot harder to tell.

IMO that's the best you can do,  the wire upgrade and the Cibie's.  BTW other lenses including Hella and cheap knock offs don't compare to Cibie's.  my 2 cents.  highdesertranger

I will stay within the legal policies of the road. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Minivanmotoman]

The name game?
Monster Mash
High Roller
Roadkill
Fourplay
The Big Gulp
Come to mind..

 

[highdesertranger]

I should have made this clearer. H4 bulbs that are 55/60 watt ARE LEGAL. mine are 55/100 watt and are illegal. but you can only tell on high beam(100 watt) so basically if I turn the highs off when I am supposed to no one can tell. highdesertranger

 

[HalfShadows]

Mine has the 4 headlight arrangement. Highs are just a dim as the lows.  Lighting sucks , I remember that from the 90's ohh well Maybe I will get a light bar for when on forest roads. Would like to see something to avoid running over it.

 

[HalfShadows]

Been trouble shooting the Instrument lights and park lights been inoperative since i got it.  Fuses are good, still have to rule out switch or a bad ground somewhere.  Fuses also have 12 volts on each side.

 

[HalfShadows]

Drove into town last night to get soft close sliders at Lowes. Disappointed  in their selection. Was starving went across the street to Burger King and got a Texas Whopper. Woke up with heartburn going to dowse it with lot's of coffee, usually does the trick. Found out Home Depot has a better selection, going there today. Goals for the day are installing sliders and continuance of trouble shooting Instrument lights and park lights. Going to start with the switch first to see if it has continuity when pulled to the park light position. I hope it is the switch I hate tracing wires.

 

[HalfShadows]

Update on Costway Fridges. I have been running them for 2 days now. Both are working flawlessly. Makes beautiful Ice in an Ice tray. The digital read out of internal temperature is accurate  when taken in the bottom of the small compartment. 34 degrees = 34 degrees. Temperature taken in the large, bottom of compartment has a variance, 31 degrees displayed is actually 26 degrees. 5 degrees variance. Leads me to assume bottom of small compartment is where the manufacturer set a point for temperature indication accuracy. Small compartment has a sticker stating Dairy and fruits.

 

[HalfShadows]

Costway Fridge . Going to test the fridge With a setting of 38 degrees. If it holds true, small compartment should maintain temp of 38 degrees and large compartment should maintain 33 degrees. Update you later with the results.

 

[max+sophia]

Maybe I will get a light bar for when on forest roads. Would like to see something to avoid running over it.

Half, How about fog lights plus running lights next to them?  You wouldn't switch the running lights on when there is oncoming traffic.  We had that setup on our 1954 MGTF

 

[HalfShadows]

Half, How about fog lights plus running lights next to them?  You wouldn't switch the running lights on when there is oncoming traffic.  We had that setup on our 1954 MGTF

That would do the trick. Also I could scrounge up a couple of B-52 Landing lights LOL. would have to update my alternator for those though.

 

[highdesertranger]

on the Chevy's the tail lights/running lights are on the same circuit as the dash lights. so if you have tail/running lights you should have dash lights. if you don't check the grounds. oh yeah make sure your dash light dimmer is not turned all the way down.

I am telling you doing the headlight wire mod makes a world of difference. go to any of the Chevy truck forums and there will be several write ups about it. highdesertranger

 

[QinReno]

on the Chevy's the tail lights/running lights are on the same circuit as the dash lights.  so if you have tail/running lights you should have dash lights.  if you don't check the grounds.  

Same circuit is actually a useful idea, as if the dash lights are off, it indicates some other possible problem. My old Dodge van was that way. The dash lights went out, and I discovered there was a short in the wiring to the brake lights. However, if 12V both sides of the fuse, it sounds more like an open-circuit than a short. Possible corroded terminals. 

Possibly there is corrosion in all of the bulb sockets that need cleaning, in any case. Those old bayonet style bulbs were bad in that aspect, if that's what SBunny has.

 

[HalfShadows]

on the Chevy's the tail lights/running lights are on the same circuit as the dash lights.  so if you have tail/running lights you should have dash lights.  if you don't check the grounds.  oh yeah make sure your dash light dimmer is not turned all the way down.

I am telling you doing the headlight wire mod makes a world of difference.  go to any of the Chevy truck forums and there will be several write ups about it.  highdesertranger

Has neither Instrument lights nor tail/parking/clearance lights. Have a schematic. From the park light position on the headlight switch it goes directly to the license plate light  and everything is powered after the license plate light forward and aft. I removed the license plate lamp with headlight switch in the on position and tested to ground should have had 12volts I was providing the ground for the circuit to the chassis. No voltage indicated. Inspected wire bundle for discrepancies from License Plate to fire wall . Bundle was found to be intact and well protected. Leaves me with the switch. Going to remove switch and check for a open in the on position.

 

[HalfShadows]

Removed switch, unplugged wiring connector. Have 12 volts going to Headlight switch connector from fuse block (red wire). Had zero volts from orange wire from fuse block that supplies the power for the park lights. Orange wire between fuse block and switch is open. Unfortunately for me the wire bundle from switch joins a huge bundle hidden behind component brackets and other crap. The wire bundle has been worked on before evident by the massive amount of slimy electrical tape wrapped around it. Will have to completely disassemble the dash to find where the wire is compromised. Did I mention I am colorblind. Dude on a Harley stopped in front of my house to adjust something, I had him verify the colors for me. He thought Snow Bunny was awesome.

 

[HalfShadows]

My toilet arrived today. It is a Clean Waste go anywhere toilet. It is very compact and only weighs 7 pounds. It will Support up to 500 pounds.LOL
Military uses it.

 

[HalfShadows]

Came up with a quick fix for the instrument/park light problem. I am going to splice in to the orange wire off the switch with an environmental connector and run a lead to the respective fuse. I am going to connect the lead to a fuse tap I am installing into the respective fuse slot.

 

[Smitty716]

Congratulations, sounds like you have been busy .