300 I6 Ford mods.

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ckelly78z

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 About the Ign. System Upgrade/ Timing Bump for OBD1 (Pre-96')
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[font=Verdana, geneva, lucida,]This is the Ignition System Upgrade/ Timing Bump Link: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump

Actually, there's a couple things being done on the link that compliment each other.

A timing bump by itself only requires a sound, healthy ignition system, assuming the rest of the engine is up to it as mentioned below. The Ignition system upgrade is to allow the plug gap stretched to provide firings w/ consistent, larger spark kernel size.

Plug choice:
The problem w/ double Platinum plugs is they create more heat from the extra resistance created by the platinum plate (how they self clean). It is less conductive than copper & once the heat is created in the cylinder, the platinum's insulative properties inhibits that heat from being drawn out through the plug. This lends itself to ping. That's the last thing you want for a timing bump. The coppers create less heat to begin with & more effectively draw heat away. I can't get a comfortable 16 BTDC w/ 87 octane using double platinums. Occacional Ping under load! Coppers cores, no problem! I can get 18 BTDC w/ coppers but don't see enough gain in the extra 2 degrees in an otherwise stock engine to warrant running it there.

The link specifies a higher voltage(48-60k) low ohm (.35-.45 ohm) coil, lower resistance superior insulated wires to contain the spark impulse all the way to the plug, which now can have a 20% larger spark kernel exposure to more effectively ignite the atomized fuel. Because now your able to run w/ a .054 gap, rather than your stock .044 gap. Or in the .060's, if your stock gap was .054 to begin with.

A brass cap & rotor are required to provide dependable dispensation of the spark pulses. A high output coil will destroy a stock Cap & rotor set in short order. 16 BTDC seems to be the top of the sweet spot for an otherwise stock engine. Not enough additional benifit to warrant going w/ any more advance. Once again Copper core plugs, requiring less resistance to be overcome to initiate spark, is the better choice for larger gaps than Double Platinums.

Your ducks have to be in a row for a successful timing bump. No active error codes. No combustion chamber deposits, which is the most popular reason for ping (Seafoam Treatment), Desludge the engine (Seafoam Treatment), effective coolant system(flush), no unmetered air or Vac leaks. Healthy fuel delivery system pressure & clean injectors(Seafoam/ then Lucas injector cleaner added every 4-5 tank fulls). https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/

Compression doesn't have to be impressive, just balanced. Synthetic oil w/ a stabilizer (Lucas) added is strongly advised. Your asking it to produce a higher rate of compression, so it deserves & should have it.

I also suggest after flushing the collant system, to switch to Distilled water/antifreeze to dramatically reduce corrosion, hard particle & scale build up. And switching, at least to a 180F thermostat may prove beneficial (Although seldom required below 14BTDC).

This should be done last, as every engine is a little different. You may decided to go w/ a little less base timing advance & a lower thermostat may not be advantageous overall. Fuel trim doesn't begin until closed loop function begins (aprox.184F for many/ A little less for others) The factory uses a 195F to get you into closed loop quickly & keep you there.

Sometime's going to a 180F stat is the difference between a comfortable 16 BTDC & a dicey 16BTDC w/ ping looming. I would wait to decide on your stat temp for last. See if what you get w/ a stock 195F is good enough.

An alternative to dropping in a 180F thermostat, that you may want to try first is add a bottle of "Water Wetter" (by Redline) to your coolant system first. This product significantly increases the thermal transfer property's of the coolant system to more readily carry away Thermal buildup generated by combustion chambers.

It's a balancing act with staying in closed loop & providing sufficient cooling properties for the addition compression chamber temps generated by further base time advance.
Better to err on the side of safety & reliability.

The less of these duck in a row, the less additional advance will be tolerated before ping is observed. Most people end up at 13-14 BTDC, many times w/ minimal prep. Advance base timing incrementally from stock 10 BTDC till ping is observed under load, then retard 2 degrees. On gap stretching, increase incrementally till miss is observed under load, then bring gap in .002. But w/a 48K, low ohm coil, a .052 gap is pretty much assured. If .054 is your stock gap, .060-062 seems to be where most end up.

Try to resist the urge to increase octane. Eventually, it will only come back to bite you in the ***! These engine's are engineered to run on 87' octane, even w/ the timing bump (although OBD2's seem to be able to adapt to a slight increase/ I'm guessing MAF & sequential injection helps).

Then there's a few that do everything right in prep & parts, & can't seem to get past 14 BTDC. Beat's the ***** outta me! I wish I knew what their glitch was. I'm thinkin something below the surface, like a failed air intake gasket, but that normally affects idle too. Anyway, hope this helps.

14 BTDC "is" notable in MPG & performance. Even 12BTDC will show improvement. 16BTDC is not a requirement, just a possibility if your engine is up to it & you've gotten your duck's in a row. Anything above 10BTDC will be an improvement.

One more time: Err on the side of safety & reliability, especially if it's your daily driver! "Ping" is your enemy.
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[font=Verdana, geneva, lucida,]Last edited by ymeski56; 04-02-2013 at 12:01 PM.[/font]
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^^^ A couple of things I plan on doing to my 1996 F150 with the 4.9L inline 6 motor. ^^^

I also am looking at a 2.5" exhaust, and some head work.
 
I was just thinking of awesome inline sixes today. The Ford 300 cu. in. in a F150. The Mopar slant six for a low profile hood line.
 
Wow! An L6 is an awesome and very efficient engine, but that article has a lot of pseudo science and misinformation...  Advancing distributor timing on a computer controlled engine only serves to change the base or minimum timing. On an OBD2 the spark knock sensor will override the computer and retard as far as base timing whenever knock is detected.  Of course, you can force the engine into detonation with excessive base timing, but that isn't good for longevity or performance.  A cold thermostat only throws off the computer math tables for air density and the fuel map.  Engines make the most power and are very efficient at around 195º-205º, so a 180º thermostat doesn't really do much other than force the engine into a less than optimal temperature range.  It might also keep the engine from reaching sufficient temperature to burn off water vapor from the engine oil.  Higher ignition voltage doesn't translate into more spark.  You can have a 20kv system that performs just as well as a 200kv system.  If all it takes is 10kv to jump the spark plug gap then that is all the system will use.  However, spark acts like a high pressure in a small pipe, and a higher pressure is just going to leak out somewhere.  Larger gaps don't translate into higher efficiency.  Voltage will always find the path of least resistance, around the rotor, or blow a hole out the wires to ground.  Wider gaps cause misfires, and that puts extra strain on parts like wires and rotors, and they will fail.  In high horsepower racing engines we use a tiny .028" gap to make the most power...  I've set track records and won races with stock ignition parts, and not the hi-performance touted stuff.  That article was obviously written by an extreme noob.  I chuckled when they thought a dog leg wrench was something special.  All I'm sayin' is Caveat Emptor...  I'd suggest to give her a good tune up with stock parts, stock thermostat, stock heat range spark plugs, quality stock cap/rotor/wires, make sure there's no vacuum leaks, keep the EGR, and work on the intake and exhaust flow if you must.  Beyond that we're talking about  cylinder head work, a new cam, and last an aftermarket ECU/or reflash.
 
Most likely, my course of action will be the following; i'm just looking for a little more grunt, and throttle response. It's easy to go down a rabbit hole looking at potential modifications, and the work/cost involved.

-trans filter with new synthetic fluid,
-rearend drain/refill with synthetic lube,
-needed toe-in adjustment on front suspension
-fuel filter change
-GOTS mod on the stock airbox with new flat filter
-Cut off both cat converters, replace with a high flow 2.5" 2 into 1 cat (pre-drilled for O2 sensor) new Magnaflow turbo muffler
-Replace old clutch fan with 16" Hayden electric fan on temp switch
-Advance timing to around 13* BTDC
 
thanks Doubleone, great dissemination.

Kelly you can't turn a Clydesdale into a Thoroughbred. the I6 300 is a great workhorse engine but a dragster it ain't. leave the timing where it is supposed to be.

is that a twin I-beam front suspension?

highdesertranger
 
Not trying to make the truck faster, just more efficient, and torquey. If I want to tow something heavy, I have a 2004 6.0L diesel Excursion 4x4, and if I want to go fast, I have my daily driver 2004 Mustang GT convertible with 4.10 gears.

I drive the 96 F150 in the Winter, when the Mustang is in the garage, so it feels really sluggish in comparison with 300# of sand bags in the back for winter traction.

The Excursion is too nice to bathe in road salt every day, but will be the choice if it snows heavily.
 
Over the weekend, I changed the motor oil/filter to 10W30 full synthetic, and pulled the rear differential cover (axle tag says 3.55 gears) to drain out the old goop, and replace it with 75W90 full synthetic gear lube.

I already have a new transmission gasket, and standard Mercon transmission fluid, and a new filter. I also bought a drain plug that I will need to drill, and install. I plan on running the standard trans fluid for a few thousand miles to help flush the system, and then drain. At that time, I will also drain the TC, and replace all 12 quarts of fluid with synthetic.
 
wayne49 said:
I was just thinking of awesome inline sixes today. The Ford 300 cu. in. in a F150. The Mopar slant six for a low profile hood line.

Back in the day, I almost bought a '67 Firebird with the OHC 250 cu.in. six with a 4-bbl.  It also had a split manifold and sounded like a Jaguar. Moved out real sprightly.

It was only a 3-speed though, so I ended up with a '66 Malibu SS.
 
Back in the day, I raced a Ford 300 six banger on dirt. Bored .030 over which then fit a 351 Cleveland std. piston (2 barrel one, not the 4bbl, too much dome on that one) Just had to chuck in a lathe and shave about .010 off the top so it wouldn't protrude from the block. Ported the head, fitted 429 Ford intake valves, and 427 Chevy exhaust valves, That called for skinning the top off the stem down and cutting a new keeper groove. then installed 1.7 chevy big block rockers to get the proper valve train geometry. Fitted with an Isky cam, Clifford 6=8 aluminum intake with 650 Holly and a set of 2" header, that puppy would run. Raced it in my old coupe.
Later on, I stuffed that motor in my 4 wheel drive Falcon.  :D
 

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I love the inline 6. Owned lots of modified 6 packs which none of you would be familiar with as they were all Aussie built.

My current ride I use most days for work, though not a truck, is an Aussie built 1993 Ford Falcon panel van running a 4.1 (250cu) crossflow alloy head 6. She is one of the last carby Falcons made in Oz and has no electronic rubbish controlling the engine. Gearbox is an Borg warner 3 speed auto with a rear axle ratio of 2.8 to 1. tall gearing for the superslab which it spent most of its time on. She's no drag queen.
Simple long distant cruising car with a big comfy bench seat.
If your interested in high powered straight sixes look up the Australian designed and built Barra engine by Ford Australia, I heard there are a few travelling over to the states for repowers especially F trucks.
 

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I have heard of the "Barra" motors, but not really looking for a high performance build, just more efficiency.
 
One of my favorite rebuilds was my 300 6... in my 80’s f 150... that engine was no drag queen, but efficient and pulled a good load. (I built fireplaces and chimneys). Living in Minnesota the road salt was the demise for that old friend. Stepped up to an f 250 with a 302... I rebuilt that with great disappointment. It ran good and everything, but I thought the old 300 was the better motor. It’s demise was the tranny. Haha!
 
I bought a 1980 F150 long bed, std cab with the 300 I6, about 20 years ago to have around the farm. I only paid $600, and it definitely had motor problems when I bought it, but the body was perfect. It's first trip was to pick up about 50 bales of horse hay, which it did without complaining. I told my wife, as soon as we unloaded the hay, I was going to pull the motor to see what was wrong.

After pulling the head, and manifolds, I could see that the valves weren't sealing, and most of the rings were broken, and a couple of the piston ring landings were broken as well. I ordered new pistons/rings/rod bearings, and had the head redone at a local shop. I put it back together, and daily drove it for 5 years, than sold it to a neighbor who still drives/uses it to this day....great truck, great motor.
 
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