Oil change, the most basic maintenance

[SternWake]

I'm fairly stationary and have a place to work on my Van, but I have been in need of an oil change, out on the road and performed some stealthy oil changes, one in a rest stop in Oklahoma at 4AM.

Those of you who do your own work on the road, what strategy do you employ when the oil needs a changing?  Do you eye parking spots that you might get away with slipping some cardboard and an oil pan under the vehicle, or do you just goto the local iffy lube, or perhaps a somewhat more trustworthy service center?

I really do not trust any jiffy lube type joints.  I do not believe they will use the proper grade oil I have chosen, and their filters are the cheapest that can be bought in bulk.  They will likely overtighten the filter and perhaps the drain plug itself, perhaps stripping or cross threading it on reinstallation.

Since time is money, they likely also return the drain plug well before it is down to a one drip per second level( my personal minimum acceptable drip rate), unless they suck it out the fill tube, which will also likely leave a half a quart of old dirty oil sticking to the internals, which is also good for their bottom line as less fill is required to bring it up to the line.

COmbine this with the upsell, strangers possibly driving my home, and my inclination to do anything myself which I can perform myself, keep me well away from any quickle iffy lube joint and I think the last one I allowed near my van, was in 2001 or 2002.

Yesterday, I changed my oil.  It had been in the crankcase for 14 months, and I only drove ~3K miles in that time.  The Fill was Mobil1 0w-30 AFE and I used a Motorcraft FL-1A filter, which cross references to a purolator 30001 or a fram PH8A.  The Motorcraft is in the same price range as those other 2 and is built significantly better with a thread end bypass valve, instead of a dome end bypass.

I buy 0w-XX oils as they require higher quality synthetic basestocks to meet this 0w rating, which include group 5 ester oils, group 4 PAO poly alpha olefins or something, and Group 3 hydrocracked oils which in The US, can be called fully Synthetic, but not in Germany.  Group 1 and 2 oils are just conventional  mineral oils, but even these are so much better than what was available 20 years ago, that it is rather impressive.

I do not need a 0w-XX oil for my climate, nor do I even need a Synthetic oil.  I use them  not only for just for the warm and fuzzies, but their ability to last more time and mileage before they either shear to too light a grade, or the detergents. Antiwear, anti scuff, friction modifying, Acid neutralizing additives are all worn out.  I'd have No problem leaving Mobil1 0w-30 or 0w-40 oil in my van for 12k miles or 14 to 18 months., but I would not push a Conventional mineral oil much past 5500 miles or 6 to 8 months.

Here is an Used Oil analysis performed on Mobil1 0w-40 from a few years Ago, at Blackstone Labs.

This M1 0w-40 oil made my engine significantly quieter than my previous fill of M1 TDT( turbo diesel truck) 5w-40 nearly eliminating some undesirable valvetrain noises upon deceleration, which made me happy.

The Subsequent fill was M1 0w-30 as Wally world did not have any 0w-40 in 5 quart jugs in stock.  It seemed a smidge louder than 0w-40.  WW also was out of my preferred overkill filter, the M1-301 and I bought the motorcraft FL-1a instead.

There are many motor oil Myths passed on down from Grandpa, and If I read my owners manual I would not use any xw-40 weight oil, and I doubt 0w-40 even existed in 1989.

10w 40 was not recommended for use, in 1989, in my van, as 10w-40 oils of that era used many viscosity index improvers so it could achieve that 40w rating at 200 degrees C.  The problem was these VII's would break down and the oil would shear to a light 30 weight oil or even a 20 weight oil, whose film strength would be too weak/thin to adequately protect the bearings.

Modern oils, conventional or otherwise have better basestocks, and viscosity index improvers and are much more resistant to shearing to a lighter weight oil.

The Mobil1 0w-40 is reported to shear to a heavy weight 30 weight oil but level off there unless fuel dilution is an issue for the engine, which might be an issue with a rich running carb'd engine, or a modern direct injection engine.

So, Short of Boutique oils such as AMSOil and Redline or Brad Penn or perhaps Royal Purple, I feel the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil with a M1-301 high capacity high filtration efficiency filter is about as good as one can do in temps of product capability.  I feel more confident that if I were to not notice my engine overheating, that the Synthetoc oil would protect better for longer.  I feel more confident that if I had 3k miles on the oil, and needed to drive cross country, I could do so without worrying about changing the oil.  

With such a Heavy duty filter, I have confidence it will not blow up, or have the media tear, or have the antidrainback valve get stuck open and cause valvetrain clatter each and every start up.

Changing it myself means i can let it drain for as long as it fancies me to let the old oil drip out, that I know the filter was installed to the proper tightness,, and partially filled with new oil before reinstalling it, and the drain plug was not cross threaded or overtightened.

I've no issues returning the used oil into the most recent 5 quart container and  recycling it and the filter at the local Autozone or Oreilly's.  I can also take my hammer and chisel to the old filter and inspect it for sludge or lots of sparklies or for torn filter media.

This Motorcraft FL-1A was my most recent dissection, and it is darn impressive for a 4$ filter, in my opinion:

So, for you, is Oil just oil, or does your freedom machine's engine get a little more overkill loving than that?

 

[flying kurbmaster]

to me oil is oil, I try to buy good brand names on sale not a generic oil, same with filters. I have had an experience with a jiffy lube type station once where the very nice overly friendly young man came to me and told me how he had changed my oil as if it was his first one, I should have suspected something and checked the level, he overfilled it and I blew a head gasket shortly afterwards, I assume that was the cause, hard to prove.

 

[eDJ_]

I do most of my own work. (within the scope of the tools I own) I grew up working in a Gas Station Garage and have changed plenty of oil in my time. Yes I know what it is to have to chisel an oil filter base off the engine block.  (the bottom link below has a photo of the place I worked at as a kid)

What do I do today.  I buy these for my cars.

If you are lucky you may find some of these with hose nipples so that you can use a piece of hose to drain the oil directly into a 5 quart container.  (like those that motor oil comes in)

On an E 350 with a 351M this plug would be up high and dry and protected from impact with the road.
But for a Honda Civic the above photo may be a better choice.



A flip of the switch and the oil drains out into the oll catch basin.  I generally remove the filter first and clean
up any spillage with paper towels.  Then,  drain the oil into the basin.  The used oil goes back into a 5 qt plastic oil jug that earlier motor oil came in by pouring it slowly out of the basin through a funnel.  Then it is returend to a facility such as Advanced Auto Parts where it is recycled. 

I generally use WIX oil filters.  Purolator if I can't find WIX.   Purolator makes the paper medium in the filters and sells it to many other end producers.  But they generally keep their best grades for their own filters.
WIX uses probably more paper medium in their filters than any of it's competitors.

The paper medium is the most important aspect of the filter.  It is a special type of paper and it has resins sprinkled on it as it is made into filtration medium.  It then passes through a heating oven that melts it into the
paper to leave micro holes that should be able to catch particles 1 micron in size.  The paper is then taken and passed over automated flow benches that record the air flow that can pass through any given sample.  This is how it is graded.  Those lots which don't make the grade are then sold to other manufacturers. (economy priced brands)  Some filters have features such as spring loaded by pass valves such that if the filter become plugged the valve will open allowing oil supply to the motor so that it doesn't burn up the bearings.  There may also be an acid neutralizing anode present that will help protect metal parts in the engine as well.

As for the oil the API codes will cut through the BS of the Advertising Agencies.  The oil is basically all the same.
The Additive package of chemicals mixed into the fresh oil is what is most important. There may be an EP component (extreme pressure), an Anti Foaming agent, a VIA (viscosity improving agent), and other chemicals for other purposes.  All of these chemicals are of varying expense but quality oil uses the expensive good stuff. (thus the oil will last longer and give quality performance and protection)

That's an excellent over view of the high end oils, so I thought I'd comment on the more typical every day stuff that the average vandweller would be using. (while counting his pennies)

To me oil is like the blood of the engine.  I want to keep it clean and healthy just as I would my own blood.   It is a faith based statement,  but...the care I take of it will be the care it gives me in return.

 

[SternWake]

Purolator's ownership has changed hands recently.  There have been reports of the filter media tearing on the basic Purolator classic white can on the Bitog forums and a seemingly arrogant response from them concerning this.


I agree all modern name brand oils can and will exceed their minimum requirements, but there are fairly significant differences in their formulations as to base stocks and add packs.

The PQIA regularly posts info on popular oils as to their viscosities at certain temperatures as well as the contents of their addpacks, well those that show up on their tests anyway.

They also post warnings/consumer alerts on Oils which fail to meet API specifications, usually those no name brand oils ( City Star)which are sold in convenience shops:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/

Some of them prove to be Used oil with huge PPM numbers of highly abrasive silicon!!  Might as well pour sand  and acid into your crankcase.

Also of note is one companies 5w-30 might be on the low end of the acceptable viscosity of a 30 weight oil, and another companies 5w-30 can be just under a 40 weight.  

So while small viscosity differences might not make one iota of difference in overall engine life, Oil is not oil, nor all the same.  Pennzoil on its ultra platinum line is using a Gas to liquid technology, making highly refined synthetic oil from natural gas.  These oils have very good resistance to burning off, much more so than other oils.

The NOACK Volatility Test, otherwise known as ASTM D-5800, determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service.[1] The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions.

So this oil in an oil burner could/might significantly slow down the amount of make up oil required during an oil change.  At ~ 5$ a quart, a 5$ more expensive oil, for 5 quarts total, might pay for itself in less oil burned.

Some oils have more detergents than others, which might be calcium or magnesium based. The levels of antiwear and friction modifiers can be thick in one oil and completely absent in another brand, substituted with another type all together , such as Moly and Boron.  If one switches from an oil whose detergents are largely magnesium based to one which is primarily calcuim based, the oil could darken quickly as the different detergent dispersants clean what the other type could not.

And HTHS viscosity, high temp high shear, might very well be the most important viscosity measure, compared to the numbers such as 5w-30.

This HTHS figure can vary wildly among different brands within the same 5w-30 classification and this number most likely resembles the actual viscosity of the oil in the bearings under the highest load where film strength is most important.

In xw-30 oils SN rated, they are forced to reduce the ZDDP levels over SM and SL rated oils, to protect the catalytic converters in cars that tend to burn oil. In place of this antioxidant and antiwear additive some companies use Boron or Moly or even titanium.  Xw-40 oils are not required to adhere to these lower levels of zinc and phosphorus.  Diesel oils such as Rotella can have 1200PPM where as a SN rated 5w-30 has to have under ~850PPM phosphorus iirc.

So I always think about the near final chase scenes in the blues brothers, when they throw a rod.

Perhaps better motor oil would have prevented this :  and the entire fulcrum of humanity's trial and tribulations forever altered.

Honestly, lubrication related engine failures are few and far between and there are more important things to dwell on, Like battery longevity!

Just Kidding.  Good night all.

 

[TMG51]

I change my oil every 3,000 miles. I hate those quick lube places, I won't go near them. I just find a spot somewhere inconspicuous at night, pop out, crawl underneath, drain the oil, spin off the filter (I use the ones with a grippy surface and do it all by hand), put new filter on, plug oil pan, get back up, fill engine oil. It's done in 15 minutes including wait time for the oil to drain and new oil to settle. I do this without spilling any oil on the ground.

I should get one of those flip lever thingies. That'd shave a couple minutes off.

 

[Almost There]

So, if you're not inclined to do your own oil changes, what chain of fast lube franchises is safest to use when you're on the road?

Even at home with my trusted quick change company I tend to stand in the doorway watching what they're doing and supervising the whole thing like making sure that I've got MY correct tire pressure going on (as opposed to what they think I should be using)!

 

[gojo]

So, if you're not inclined to do your own oil changes, what chain of fast lube franchises is safest to use when you're on the road?

Even at home with my trusted quick change company I tend to stand in the doorway watching what they're doing and supervising the whole thing like making sure that I've got MY correct tire pressure going on (as opposed to what they think I should be using)!

You're doing right, that's if you're standing there and watching em closely. I remember back in the 70s when I was a mechanic for CAT. There was an old man who would bring his little old D4 dozer in for repairs. I had to work on his tractor a few times. He would sit there all damn day by his tractor and watch me work on it. I was very nice to him and he was very picky. If he wanted something extra to do, I would do it. He always smoked cigars, so one day I asked if he could go and smoke that damn cigar somewhere else, because it's making me drunk. Since then, he never would sit by his tractor again, but he would stand at door way and watch who ever worked on it.
So let them know you're watching......

 

[TMG51]

So, if you're not inclined to do your own oil changes, what chain of fast lube franchises is safest to use when you're on the road?

Even at home with my trusted quick change company I tend to stand in the doorway watching what they're doing and supervising the whole thing like making sure that I've got MY correct tire pressure going on (as opposed to what they think I should be using)!

I wouldn't say those places are un-safe, exactly... they're just like any other sort of franchise, staffed by autonomous monkeys. It doesn't matter how many times you explicitly say, "I just want an oil change, nothing else" they'll still pull out all your air filters and try to sell you new ones and when you complain they'll tell you how it's part of their service package. Because they're trained to try to sell you stuff and they're trained to use that language. I'd rather keep track of that stuff myself but if it doesn't bother you then I don't think there's any harm in using those places.

 

[Almost There]

I wouldn't say those places are un-safe, exactly... they're just like any other sort of franchise, staffed by autonomous monkeys. It doesn't matter how many times you explicitly say, "I just want an oil change, nothing else" they'll still pull out all your air filters and try to sell you new ones and when you complain they'll tell you how it's part of their service package. Because they're trained to try to sell you stuff and they're trained to use that language. I'd rather keep track of that stuff myself but if it doesn't bother you then I don't think there's any harm in using those places.

Oh, I know only too well about the upsell that they try to do...

But then I've made my living in sales for many years too!

There's only one filter other than the oil filter that I'll let them change and that's the air filter on this van. And that's only because it's such a PITA to change. I make them show me the filter and make my own mind up if it needs to be changed. Actually, I get them to run their little butts off even when I know full well that it needs changing based on when it was last changed and the driving environ the van has been through - ha desert sand or clean northern summer roads!!

I could write a book about the stories I've been told by 'mechanics' over the last 50 years of driving...not sure if it would be a horror story or a comedy routine though!.

 

[Canine]

Getting oil changed at a quicky lube is like getting food through the drive through- half the time you don't get what you want and what you get is cheap.

If I were to have someone change my oil/fluids, I would go to an actual mechanic shop or maybe an independent quickly lube shop. Yes, it will be more, but it will more likely be done correctly and not rushed. Those quicky lube places make huge efforts to get you in and out as fast as possible while paying the employees as little as possible.

I use only Wix filters. It isn't just about the paper media, it is about the internal springs, the gasket, etc. Amsoil filter are made by Wix. At least some of them. Napa Gold is a rebranded Wix. Napa Silver is junk. Carquest also is a private label Wix as long as you get the good one. There are other brands that are as good as Wix, but they aren't as widely available, so I don't even try to get those. Much easier to buy a Wix- it is a premium filter. Do not buy the cheapest filter you can find. At least get a Fram or something like that.

I like synthetic oil as it allows for easier cold starts. A lot of wear and tear occurs during start up and that is compounded further during cold weather.

Some "synthetic" oils are not truly synthetic, but they are still better than conventional oil. However, no matter what oil you buy, it is good stuff. Even that cheap crap you can get at the convenience stores. The standards to which oil must be adhere to are very good. Much better than any oil that could be had in the 80's. Back then you had to pay attention; now you don't.

As long as you change your oil 3000 to 5000 miles and not use the cheapest filter you can find, then you are a winner. That is by far the biggest factor. Not changing your oil is a bad deal. Not changing your oil with newer engines is a bad, bad, bad, bad deal.

I use a hose clamp to clamp a couple rare earth magnets onto the oil filter to catch metal dust. Metal dust is like sandpaper in your engine, so whatever metal shavings I can remove, I figure that is a big help. That may not make a real world difference, but I still go though the effort just in case. You can also purchase magnetic oil drain plugs that do almost the same thing.

Disposing of the oil is getting harder and harder, though. Winter isn't bad because of the shops that burn used motor oil in their heaters. Summer is pretty much impossible unless you know of a place that takes used oil, but then you often need to pay for them to take it. That negates any money saved doing your own changes.

 

[SternWake]

Wix certainly make a good filter, but the model for my van they have this weird combination antidrainback/bypass valve that I do not trust tonot reseat off center and not seal properly and then allow the valvetrain clatter/ticking lifters on startup. A Napa 51515 I had had these issues, which is a Wix gold 1515.

I'd recommend avoiding all Fram oil filters, except the Fram Ultra, which currently has a gold colored can with black grippy stuff on the bottom and has X in the part number, like XG-8A. The Ultra is a premium filter with very high filtering efficiency, wire backed media, and a silicone Antidrainback valve and a thread end bypass valve.

The Orange Can of Death Fram( tough guard) is just a marginal quality 4$ filter with fiberboard endcaps. Adequate for normal short oil change intervals. There are better filters for the same $$.

I also use strong neodymium Magnets on the casing, spaced around the can exterior, that hold themselves in place.

Here one can see the outline 1/4"x1/4" x 1&1/4" where the magnet was located:

I'd prefer to not see the accumulation of ferrous dust, but it is always there. Whether the paper media would have filtered this or allowed a portion of it through, is up for debate.

I guess it varies around the country but the Autozones and Oreilly's here accept used motor oil and ATF at no charge. the Oreilly's makes you sign something if you bring in a 5 gallon bucket for recycling but never when just bringing in a 5 qt jug.

It really should not be made difficult to recycle oil, as so many people can't be bothered and will just search for an unmonitored storm drain, and perhaps even be proud of this disgusting solution.

My oil drain plug was kind of mangled when I got the van, but it never leaked. Previous owner had used vice grips, and I continued this bad practice, Until this oil change where I had the forethought to buy a Derale magnetic plug. A 14mm wrench fits super snugly over it, a 9/16 has some wobble.


As far as watching a mechanic work, I fully understand, but I also know I hate it when somebody is looking over my shoulder while I work. If I notice I am being observed, I will just stop all work, walking away from the project until i am alone again and do not have to listen to questions, comments, or have to feel their eyes judging my every move.
If your mechanic looks pissed off at your supervision, then you are doing yourself no favors by helicoptering. many shops used to have a labor rate such as:
50$ per hour.

You watch, 75$ per hour.

I had one polite mechanico in Mexico snap when I was watching, out of curiosity, not suspicion, when they were replacing a control arm bushing.

 

[karl]

Only once (twice if you count it as first and last) have I had a quick lube place change the oil and lube- by the time I left I was disgusted.

Now I change my own at a campsite or the far corner of a parking lot- I carry a part roll of Ramboard( floor protector- HDepot) , a 2 gal used oil collection jug( WM) ,surgical gloves, paper towels, pan and filter wrenches.

My van is high enough for me to slide under without ramps, so ramboard down, slide in, loosen drain, hold pan up to prevent splashing and remove plug, drain oil and replace plug, loosen filter, a few wraps of paper towel around filter, position pan, spin off filter and drain into pan, wipe around filter flange, slide out and fill new filter with oil, drape towel over it ( to keep road dirt from falling in)and scoot back under, oil the filter seal with corner of towel, spin it on as per instructions, fill up the oil.
While the oil is draining into the engine I clean up grease fittings and grease the front end and driveshafts.

I usually buy oil (15-40)in gallons and filters( Fram Silver) at WM and add a couple ozs Zddp with each change.

Old oil gets dumped into the jugs I bought oil in and usually get recycled into WMO fuel when I get back to sticks'nbricks in summer.

Filters get bagged and tossed in filling station garbage.

 

[Canine]

In maintaining my position as the cheapest sob on this forum,I use regular 5w20 Walmart oil and the cheapest filter they have.I change oil every 5000 miles because it's easy to know when a change is due.My old oil I use for chain lube on my saws.

 

[Canine]

In maintaining my position as the cheapest sob on this forum,I use regular 5w20 Walmart oil and the cheapest filter they have.I change oil every 5000 miles because it's easy to know when a change is due.My old oil I use for chain lube on my saws.

As a mechanic, I cringed when I read that. But then again, if people stopped neglecting and abusing their equipment, mechanics would lose at least 80% of their business.

:-/  I'm not sure throwing used motor oil on the ground in lieu of bar oil is all that acceptable anymore. Non biodegradable, petroleum based bar oil is bad enough, but used motor oil is much worse. All to save a few bucks.

:-/ :-/   But then again the biodegradable bar oil is probably full of GMO's, which was likely made by Satan, um, I mean Monstanto. Buying bio oil is probably lining the pockets of that evil beast. I guess we're screwed either way.

 

[Canine]

Never heard of bio oil,but if it's cheap,I'll use it.Maybe I've been lucky,but I haven't had any engine problems in 30 years.Transmissions and rear ends from overloading have been my problem.Me and Vic pulled a 36 ft camper all over the country with a 1988 F150 with a 302.Put 2 differentials,2 axles ,half a dozen wheel bearings in it.Not to mention the rear tires I replaced.I gave the truck to my son in law with 250000 miles on it.He drove it for 3 years and sold it to a Mexican who took it to Mexico.It may still be running,for all I know.By the way,I don't throw used oil on the ground.I use it in my chain saw.I figure if it was good enough for a $3000 motor,it's good enough for a $15 chain.

 

[Canine]

Biodegradable bar oil is mega expensive; around twice the price. It's made from plants.

Bar oil is pumped through a hole in the bar that flows into the rail the chain sits in. As the chain slides through the rail, it carries the oil along. The oil is slung off off into the woods as the chainsaw runs. Every ounce of bar oil that is poured into the chainsaw gets slung right onto the ground. When I was cutting, I would use at least a quart of oil a day. I slung well over a gallon of the petroleum, non biodegradable type of oil on the ground every week. Bio oil was new back then, but still available. I wish I would have made more of an effort to use it.

 

[Canine]

I understand.