Fire!! Help!!

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Geneeus

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Hope that got your attention, because this is important. A few months ago, I was traveling to North Carolina to visit family. I stopped at a truck stop to fill up my tank and my stomach, and to shower. As I pulled in, I was passed by a fire truck responding to a fire in the parking lot. I saw a RV and a van, both fully engulfed in flames. The owners and occupants of the van and RV were huddled together in the cold, so I brought the two comforters from my van so that could wrap themselves and get a little warmth and comfort.

Slowly, the story came out. The owners of the van and RV had formed a mini-caravan, and were traveling to the east coast. The wife was cooking lunch in the RV, while the husband and the van owner were in the truck stop store. Grease spattered on the open flame, and she tried to smother it with towels. It quickly spread, and she had to get out of the RV because of the flames and smoke. Soon, the RV was fully engulfed, and it then spread to the van which was parked very close to the RV, and both were a total loss.

What's the moral? HAVE AT THE VERY LEAST ONE, AND PREFERABLY MORE, UP TO DATE FIRE EXTINGUISHERS.

Don't skimp. ABC type are best, because they will put out all types of fires. A type "A" is worthless, as it contains water, and while it will put out a wood or paper fire, it's worthless on any other type of fire, and will cause water problems with carpet, walls, and electrical equipment.

There is more behind the ABC ratings, and you should understand what each term means before you make a purchase.

Class A: Wood, Paper, cloth, trash, plastics
• The numerical rating for a Class A Fire extinguisher refers to the amount of chemicals/agent in the extinguisher. The number represents the chemical/agent's equivalent to gallons of water the extinguisher holds. Multiply the number in front of A by 1.25 to figure out the equivalent to gallons of water. For example, a Fire Extinguisher with a rating of 2A would contain the equivalent to 2.5 gallons of water (2 x 1.25)

Class B: Flammable Liquids-Gasoline, oil, grease, acetone (includes flammable gases).
• The numerical rating for a class B fire extinguisher refers to the number of cubic feet that the Fire Extinguisher will be able to extinguish.

Example: A Fire Extinguisher with a rating of 1A:10B:C would contain agents equal to 1.25 gallons of water (1 x 1.25) and would be able to extinguish 10 square feet of a class B fire.
(The extinguisher would also be rated non-conductive due to the C rating).

Class C: Electrical Fires, Energized electrical equipment fires (anything that is plugged in).
• Class C do not have a numerical classification. When "C" is present in the classification/UL rating, it indicates that the agents in the fire extinguisher are non-conductive, meaning that you can use them on an electrical fire (meaning anything that is plugged in).

Obviously, having a fire extinguisher in the driver area, and waking up to an engine fire won't help much, because you may not be able to approach the front of the vehicle.

You need to plan ahead, purchase the correct size and type of extinguisher, (again, probably more than one....) and mount them where you can get to them in an emergency.

AND DON'T FORGET SMOKE AND CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS. IF YOU'RE OVERCOME BY CARBON MONOXIDE WHILE YOU'RE SLEEPING, THE FIRE EXTINGUISHERS WON'T BE MUCH HELP.

KEEP SAFE.
 
And, contrary to some opinions, having your burner turned up to FULL BLAST is not a smart thing to do.
 
Type K extinguishers are made specifically for kitchen grease fires. They are most easily found at restaurant supply places.
- or -
Small (12 and 16 oz.) spray cans of Halon alternative fire suppressants are available. I think even Walmart carries them.
- or -
A box of baking soda works on small grease fires. I keep a box near my stove.

Common dry chemical extinguishers will put out fires, BUT they make a very hard to clean up mess and will destroy any electrical connections they infiltrate. Halon alternative extinguishers are better, but more expensive and harder to find in larger sizes.

Car fires expand very quickly. Unless you get it out in the first couple of minutes with a 5# (3A:B:C) or larger extinguisher you aren't going to get it out. Only thing I've seen work is a remote extinguisher system.
Car fires are very hot and smoke is toxic. Best to get everyone out and away from the vehicle and have good insurance.
 
gee thanks Nancy, I was involved in an ill-fated business last year and I bought the 5 lb ABC extinguisher the inspector required and Nancy took the box so I couldn't return it. Now it lives in my camper and as Martha Stewart would say " it's a good thing"
 
normal life
shit happens

but yes good fire safety is imperative, apparently this wasn't the case but I do feel for them thru a bad situation.
 
The moral of the story is don't cook with grease inside, and always have a fire extinguisher handy.
 
If the RV or vehicle fire has gotten 'bigger than a wastebasket' you have little to zero chance of controlling it (and any follow-up flames) with a portable fire extinguisher.

Get everyone out and away from the vehicle and then call 911.
 
Also have a lid handy to smother the fire in the pan in the first place.
 
Another type of extinguisher is this:
No mess, non-toxic, non-corrosive, environmentally friendly:
Element can safely be stored in vehicles that live in hot climates
https://elementfire.com/products/element-e50
If I remember correctly, potassium nitrate is somewhat corrosive to various metals. Also, I can bring a fire extinguisher "online" in a fraction of the time it takes to remove the cap, strike the tip of the unit, etc. Time is critical in fighting any fire. (by the way, I don't sell fire extinguishers.... <grin>)
 
Type K extinguishers are made specifically for kitchen grease fires. They are most easily found at restaurant supply places.
- or -
Small (12 and 16 oz.) spray cans of Halon alternative fire suppressants are available. I think even Walmart carries them.
- or -
A box of baking soda works on small grease fires. I keep a box near my stove.

Common dry chemical extinguishers will put out fires, BUT they make a very hard to clean up mess and will destroy any electrical connections they infiltrate. Halon alternative extinguishers are better, but more expensive and harder to find in larger sizes.

Car fires expand very quickly. Unless you get it out in the first couple of minutes with a 5# (3A:B:C) or larger extinguisher you aren't going to get it out. Only thing I've seen work is a remote extinguisher system.
Car fires are very hot and smoke is toxic. Best to get everyone out and away from the vehicle and have good insurance.
I agree completely with everything you say. My only argument in favor of ABC types are that they are cheaper than Halon or type K devices, and sometimes they are a better choice when funds are limited. Also, I think I remember reading that the dry chemical is not overly corrosive on electrical circuits unless there is moisture, such as would occur if water was used in the cleanup process.

The mess and destruction may be of little concern if you can put out the fire, and then save your valuable and important possessions. If you can get your documents, money, and valuables out of the car/van/trailer/rv, insurance will cover the rest. I'm far from an expert on the subject, just wanted to get folks thinking about fire safety.
 
Always keep an eye on your extinguisher gauge. And the cheaper box store ones? Well, don’t be surprised if they don’t work after time. I like all the great comments and such. But the more you invest in quality and awareness the more confident you can be averting such a situation. In the end here I’m glad you were there to comfort them some.
 
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