Yak-packing in Grand Teton
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This past weekend was a year and a half in the planning. During our visit to, and kayaking of,
Grand Teton National Park in May of 2015 we
spotted some boat in campsites on Leigh Lake and we just knew we had to camp there. From that day on, the trip to “yak-pack” into the back country site was our end-game.
Reservations were made well in advance, taking into consideration that we did not want to be in the park in peak season. We chose the weekend after Labor Day as the weekend for the trip, thinking it would be less crowded (a half truth). We
bought backpacking supplies earlier this year and even did a
test backpacking adventure to ensure we were prepared for this yak-packing trip. Slowly but surely, the date crept closer and closer until this past weekend – and thanks to
Conor driving out from Colorado to dog and trailer-sit – we were able to finally put the kayaks in the water (nearly 1 full year since our last kayak trip) for this long awaited trip.
The kayaks, fully loaded with gear (plus 4 beers and some fire wood) were nearly twice as heavy as usual. Surprisingly, they still felt great in the water. However, we knew we had a portage of a few hundred yards to get to Leigh Lake and it was here that the weight was going the be a problem. This year, we made sure to bring the kayak-wheels to take the weight during the portage. Even with my continued back pain causing issues, the wheels took the brunt of the weight making it fairly easy to haul the heavy yaks to Leigh Lake. Many tourists commented on the wheels, which we both found odd. Aren’t they normal gear for any kayak?
Once on Leigh Lake we had a smooth 2-mile paddle to our site, revisiting the path and scenery we took last year… this time no beavers though. As we arrived to camp we found the site still occupied. We paddled a little further to beach at the Paintbrush Canyon river inlet and relax while the previous campers packed up.
Within an hour we were in our site and setting up, which went smoothly thanks to the practice we had in the past few months. It wasn’t long before we were in full-relax mode, and with a 4G LTE signal Kerri got right to her normal thing.
Eventually, Kerri finished the Internet (
a daily task for her) and she set to cooking while I started a campfire. The meal was consumed, fire was shared, and the sun began to set, finishing off our first day alone on the lake.
As is customary for me, sleep came only in short spurts on the first night in a tent. I only get good sleep in the final hour or two before waking, making for a groggy Van-Tramp the following day. Nearby elk bugled through the night, and a few large thumps were heard near the NPS-supplied bear-box. The assumption is that a bear came by to see if we left him anything to eat, but was met only by a locked box. Frustration overtook him, and he took a swipe at the box… that’s my story at least, who really knows? Could have been a big squirrel I guess.
The plan was to get moving early the next morning (
after Kerri finishes the Internet again) to paddle North on Leigh Lake to find the old Ranger Cabin, built in the 1920’s, now a
National Historic Place. Although we set out early, we did not do so early enough, and by 1PM the wind started up. We were still two miles away from camp, and the wind blowing 10-15mph in our face. With some serious effort, and a few spats between us about what the shortest route may be, we eventually made it back to our tree-lined bank that offered ample protection from the wind. There we fixed ourselves lunch, and drank two of our four beers that we had cooling in the icy river beside camp. Some reading was attempted… a nap then ensued.
As evening rolled upon us, the routine of meal and campfire repeated from the prior night. We were happily startled a few times by the Elk, who crept pretty close in the night but stayed just outside of sight. Deer, on the other hand, dropped in to visit three separate times to ask us when we were leaving so they could rummage through the fire pit. We tried to stay up late enough to watch the stars, but by 8:30PM we were tucked into the tent again. This time we left the rain-fly open so we could see the stars from bed. Sleep came much easier the second night, thanks in part to exhaustion from the lack of it on the first night.
The morning came, Kerri was served her final camp-coffee in bed, and we began the 2-hour process of cleaning and packing up. We had a threat of rain coming by noon, and wanted to be paddling by 10 AM, which we only barely made. The wind stayed strong all night and was still going in the morning. Luckily, it had at least changed direction which meant it was helping us make the trip South on Leigh Lake. This change in wind also brought the smoke from the nearby forest fire between Grand Teton and Yellowstone. Kerri had noticed it in the night, while I peacefully slept.
Our paddle back was quick, with no sight seeing performed. The much cooler temperatures, and a few well placed waves right into my lap, kept us steady and on target for a noon rendezvous with the truck at the String Lake canoe launch parking lot.
In the end, the trip went too fast. After a year and a half buildup, 48 hours on the lake was just not enough. I’d have like to spend another day or two out there to be honest (although, not in the rain that appeared later that evening). The entire trip was certainly ambitious, with heavy kayaks, cold overnight temps, and the ever-present risk of capsizing with all our gear onboard. But, it made for a bigger payoff in the end.
Kerri’s Instagram images below. Enjoy.
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