Twinkie Hotel Improvements

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Fabber McGee

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Last year, September of 13, I bought a retired Hostess delivery van on ebay for 4500 bucks. I picked it up outside St. Louis on the 3rd of January and headed south right away to get out from under the blizzard of the century that was headed that way. I drove non stop til I was way down in Arkansas. About 4 in the morning, I was out from under the clouds, so I crawled in back and went to sleep. When I woke up it was raining, but the snow was all north of me. I rambled around visiting friends and relations in Texas, Arizona, California and Washington for a couple months before I headed north to Alaska and home.

I finally got the Twinkie Hotel in my shop about a week ago to begin preparing it for another road trip to the smaller states. I had hoped to get it inside several weeks earlier, but spent more time getting the shop cleaned out and organized than I had planned. Seems that nothing ever goes as fast as I hope it will.

Last year on my way home as I was visiting friends and family I was able to do some basic maintenance on the running gear, plus add a partition 8 feet behind the engine, insulate, install a propane furnace and an auxiliary heater that uses hot coolant from the engine. That got me home quite comfortably in March. I spent one night in southern Yukon at about 10 below and had a nice warm 68 degrees inside while I slept.

For this year, most of my modifications will be mechanical. Partly because I’m short on time, but mostly because the machinery has priority over housing. First thing I did was jack it up to the ceiling and put it on stands. That’s not as high as it sounds, because the body is pretty tall, but I got an extra foot or so underneath and that’s enough to work comfortably. With the wheels off I started in building brackets for air bag suspension helpers. The body has so much overhang behind the rear wheels that having much weight at the rear really squishes the back down. Also, the front is sprung a bit stiff, so I will remove a couple leaves from the front springs and add bags there too. That way I can soften it up for rough pavement (Arkansas was terrible and Oklahoma wasn’t much better, the rumble strips are smoother than the road in some places) and stiffen it back up with air if I need to. Air bags will also let me do some leveling for overnight camping pleasure.

Since the airbags mount directly over the springs and outside of the frame I needed to build a cross member to keep the frame from twisting and fatiguing. The cross member is directly over the biggest part of the differential housing, so it has to tuck up between the ridges in the floor and above the frame to let the rear suspension have full travel. Also, I had to make one end removable to get it installed between the frame rails. I have some air fittings on order from an ebay vendor that won’t be here until Monday, so I can’t install the bags and brackets until then. Cameron at Alaska Rubber loaned me a couple fittings to try, but they’re not the optimum choice, so I moved on to the differential.
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When I was in a friend's yard in Arizona doing mechanical inspections last February, I discovered a lot of slack in the differential spider gears. They didn’t look too badly worn and they weren’t loose on the shaft, so I decided to wait until I got home to worry about what was not right in there. I opened up the rear axle and dropped the differential out so I could figure out the problem. Nothing was worn excessively, but there was about 3/16” of extra space between the side gears and the case.... WTF? Finally, I washed up all the parts and headed for our local gear store. Luckily I got the old hand in the parts room and he started hunting for parts to fit. I have huge axles, the biggest that will fit through the spindles of a 70 series rear end, 37 splines. Trouble is none of his books showed axles for a 70 that were bigger than 34 splines. Dealing with an old pro makes all the difference, he remembered that some of the bigger 80 series axles use 37 splines, so he got out a differential gear kit for an 80 and the spiders and side gears fit. Whoopee!! Apparently someone had put standard 70 series spiders in with the larger 80 series side gears and they left a lot of slack. Turns out that I have an extra heavy duty 70 series rear axle. It has ring and pinion gears for a 70, but differential gears from an 80. I now have 400 bucks invested in gears (and new bearings as long as I was in there), but it should not need anything else in the rear end for the life of the truck.Twinkie Hotel 14 143 (Medium).JPG

I’ve been wanting a differential case spreader to make setting up the bearing preload easier for many years, so I decided to build one now and I’m sure glad I did. I had the ring gear carrier out a half dozen times changing shims to get the back lash and preload set where I wanted them.
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Most of the material for the spreader was originally weights from an old exercise machine I carried home from the dumpsters. 1” thick, 3” wide and 13 3/4 “ long. Another zero cash outlay tool for the shop.

Coming home in March last year I wished a few times that I had stopped at the top of some of those Canadian 10% grades and put on my tire chains. I didn’t have any problems, but I sure was puckered up more than once. I decided that if I had a set of automatic tire chains that I could operate from the comfort of my drivers seat I’d be much more likely to be using them when I was in need. I found some on ebay at a price I liked (new price is around to 2 grand) and bought them. The only way the outfit would ship was by UPS and that was too much money for me. I had them shipped to my helpful and handy nephew Davey in California to be taken apart and shipped to me in USPS flat rate boxes. They have a few wear issues, but nothing that can’t be remedied at a pretty reasonable cost by an old grey bearded homesteader.
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Watch for more exciting installments of Twinkie Hotel Improvements, ha,ha.
 

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Looking forward to it. I learn so much from reading mechanical threads, especially ones with pics.

Love the name - Twinkie Hotel
 
Yeah, it differently helps to have someone that knows what there doing behind the counter. I thought parts houses just hired people that knew how to run computers.

I had a 1970s FJ40 Toyota Land cruiser that had a Chevy distributer in it. Trying to buy points, cap and rotor was always a problem. I just had to tell the parts people I had a Chevy not a Toyota.

You're much more capable then I ever was at working on stuff. And the “Twinkie Hotel” is one sweet ride.
 
I am an old fart mechanic, but I had to Google automatic tire chains. Pretty neat.
 
gsfish said:
The whole concept of needing a tool to spread the differential case to get the chunk out safely just doesn't make sense to me. Guess I missed something important. I had a 4X4 Travelall that was the same.

Guy

New tapered roller bearings need to be pre-loaded so that when they wear in there is no slack. In this case the book calls for .015 (15 thousandths of an inch, a human hair is .003 to .005 for people that are unfamiliar with small measurements). Some differentials use a big threaded ring on each side of the case to adjust the pre-load, this one does not. Without spreading the case, you'd have to beat the carrier into the case with a big soft hammer and pry it back out to make shim changes. Not an easy job and you run the risk of damaging the new bearings, or the even more expensive gears. .015 doesn't sound like a lot, but it is. With the case spreader on there, I just turn the adjuster bolt until my dial indicator says I have spread it .015, then set the shims so the carrier just slips in snugly. When I release the spreader, I have .015 pre-load. Simple.
 
fabber McGee great post, great pics. I hate those rear ends you need to force spread. I have one with the threaded side adjusters. on the air bags nice job. post some pics when you get it installed, I also have to make my own brackets. I like the way you incorporated store bought brackets, I am also going to add a cross member for reinforcing. so I really like see how you did it and please post up pics once you get it installed. highdesertranger
 
This week has been spent at the bench preparing components for installation. The automatic chains were worn, rusted and corroded. I hunted around in my inventory and found some bushings to fit the swing arm that for some reason was built without any. It was one of the strangest pieces of engineering I have ever seen. The pivoting end of the arms had a grease fitting to lube it with, but across from that was a set screw to lock it to the pivot bolt. HUH? What’s the use of lubing a pin that is not allowed to move? With the set screw tight, the bolt (pin) had to rotate in it’s outboard locations where it passes through the bracket. No provisions were made to lube there, I thought those Swedes were pretty good engineers until now. The set screws were not tightened and it didn’t look like there had ever been any grease applied to the grease fittings, so the bolts, the arms and the sleeves in the brackets were all worn substantially. The pins were originally 15 mm, that’s .035 smaller than 5/8 of an inch. I got out a couple 5/8 Caterpillar bolts with a long enough shoulder to act as new pins and some bushings to fit them. I drilled the pivot hole in the arms to 11/16 and took them to a machine shop to be honed to 3/4 to fit the outside diameter of the bushings. Then knocked the removable sleeves out of the brackets and bored the inside to 5/8 to fit the new Cat bolts.
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I made some little spacers to keep the bolt head and nut from bottoming on the brackets before they tightened against the sleeves, then welded a short piece of square bar to the bracket so the bolt can't turn. That forces the swinging arm with the greasable bushings to be the place that moves instead of where the bolt goes through the bracket. Next comes the mounting hardware. The setup I bought off ebay was for an E350 Ambulance and it came with a u-bolt attachment that will not fit my Freightliner chassis. I did a little head scratching tonight before I left the shop and I think I have a plan. I will modify their mounting bracket to weld onto my u-bolt plate that is located on the bottom side of the axle. I found 3 new air cans on ebay for 120 bucks, different brand, but interchangeable. Good thing too, the actuator rods on my old ones were so rusted that when I got them scaled off they were at least a third smaller in diameter. I was amazed to find that there was white grease inside the adjuster coupling and they came right apart.
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Here's what the right side assembly looks like clamped to my bench.
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That's all the photos they'll let me post in one reply, so I'll start another.


The Fuller 2 speed auxiliary transmission I got from the salvage yard this summer was next. It came out of a late 50's International mid-sized truck that had been a wrecker for a local body shop. Rather than take a chance, I figured it would be a good idea to take it apart for inspection before I spent a lot of time installing it. Good news, it all looked good inside. It’s so old that it still had leather oil seals. They hadn’t been leaking (much), but they were hard, so I got new modern neoprene seals for replacements. One of the seals was a direct replacement, but, the best they could do for the other was about .020 too big on the outside diameter. No problem, the end housing it goes in was already off and it was an easy job to chuck it into the lathe and increase the diameter of the bore to fit the new seal. Also, needed one bearing that was getting a little rough. I took the bearing to the gear store and they came up with a superseded number for it. Good thing they didn’t have one in stock, it would have cost me almost 200 bucks. Turns out, nobody in town had that bearing, but if they had they all wanted about the same amount of money. When I got home, I looked on ebay and must have found 25 different places to get that bearing from. The one I got cost me 33 bucks + 6 bucks for shipping and will be here early in the week. Man, I love that ebay.
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It looks like a pretty large gear box in the photos, but other than the size of the input and output shafts, it isn’t much bigger than a transfer case from a 1970’s pickup truck. The universal joint yokes were sized for big trucks, so I had to build adapters to get my drive shafts hooked up. I will be able to use one of my original drive shafts on the rear and will need to build a new one for the front. I won’t be altering my original drive shafts, and will have them with me in case the transmission fails or just doesn’t work out as well as I hope. If I need to I can just take out this auxiliary transmission and put the original drive shafts back in place to continue on my way.
This transmission came with a big emergency brake on the back that I don’t need because there is already one on the transmission in the truck. Removing that will save me at least 40 pounds. The driveshaft yoke that supported the big brake drum was way longer and heavier than what I needed, so I cut it in two and modified a u-joint yoke for a smaller size drive shaft to fit it, then welded them together. I was going to use u-joints that matched the ones already in the truck, so they would all be alike, but the driveshaft store only had one flanged yoke in stock and I need 2. What’s an old grey bearded homesteader gonna do in a case like that? Well, he just goes out in the back 40 and looks to see what he has in stock. Turns out, there was an old military forklift back there that had driveshafts with yokes that would work just fine. They won’t match the rest of the truck, but that really isn’t a problem. The spline shaft for the slip yoke was for a 3 inch drive shaft tube, so I made an adapter to increase it to 3 1/2 like the tube I need to use.
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That takes care of the input side, then the output needed an adapter to make it fit the yoke for the shaft that came with the truck. I cut a circle out of 3/8 steel plate with my torch and put it in the lathe to make it round and true and fit the two yokes together. I used bolts with shoulders long enough to go most of the way through all the pieces so it wouldn’t be driving against threads. I decided not to cut off the extra threads so they would remain in balance.
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This evening I got enough bench work done that I could start on final installation in the truck.... at last. First to go on was the rear airbags and cross member. I got them all bolted in place and tightened up, then discovered that I didn't have any clearance for my air fittings. They were hitting the floor of the truck. The best solution seemed top be an 1/8 inch shim between the bag and it's bracket. So, the brackets came back off and I made some shims. This time they cleared nicely. Twinkie Hotel 15 053.JPGTwinkie Hotel 15 055.JPGTwinkie Hotel 15 062.JPGTwinkie Hotel 15 071.JPG
 

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Everything takes longer than I thought it would.... but I sorta thought it would. That's one of the reasons why I'm no longer self employed, I was a terrible estimator.

I got the automatic tire chain brackets attached to the rear axle. The ones I bought on ebay were for an E-350 and my suspension is different. I did a little pruning of the extra material and made them fit. some careful measuring with the angle finder and a steel rule and I was ready to weld them on. They attach to the spring u-bolt plate and can be easily removed. I guess I didn't take any pictures of them in place, I'll get to that this weekend sometime.
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The bearing for my auxiliary transmission showed up Wednesday, so I chucked it in the lathe and cut the snap ring groove that it didn't come with. For 39 bucks instead of 200, I can put in a snap ring groove myself, thank you very much. With that done, I was ready for final assembly. I got that finished up last night and figured I'd have it all bolted in today and the new front driveshaft built. Yeah, well, I always was a poor estimator. Got to the shop this morning and discovered I had to remove the rear yoke to get the slip ring style transmission mount installed. Then I figured I'd better build a bunch of the shift linkage on the bench where it's easy to get to instead of laying on my back under the truck to do it. Originally, the shift rod hooked to the shift shaft sticking out of the front of the transmission. I turned the transmission around so it is now an overdrive box instead of under drive. That left the shift shaft sticking out the rear, so a bit of linkage was needed to get hooked to the shift rod. Got that done and the mounts installed and altered (nothing is a direct bolt on). The rubber cushions that came with the transmission were cracked and bulged and soft (sorta like my old head), so I needed some replacements. Luckily I had a set of 4 cushions to fit an early Ford V-8 from about 1936-48 that I bought for a bandsaw mill project that is waiting for me to get back to it. When I get around to working on the sawmill, I'll get some more. In the mean time, these will be very happy supporting the auxiliary transmission in my Twinkie Hotel. A little radius in the bottom edge of the mounting holes and the V-8 mounts were a direct replacement. I also lengthened the shift lever by cutting off about 10 inches and adding most of the shift lever from an old Chevy pickup. Many folks would call my mountains of inventory just a bunch of junk. But it sure is nice to stroll out to the iron rack or the conex shed when I need something and pick through my alternatives to see what I like the best, instead of driving to town and buying something I'd have to modify anyway. So far, this auxiliary transmission job has cost me around a hundred dollars in seals, a bearing and cushions.
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If things go well tomorrow, I'll have the transmission in place, the holes drilled in the frame and everything bolted to the truck. Then I can start building the new front driveshaft.

Stay tuned for more exciting updates on the Twinkie Hotel improvements.
 

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Had a lot of interruptions over the past week, but still managed some forward progress. Got the transmission bolted in and welded a front driveshaft together. Took the driveshaft in for balancing and it was just fine the way it was. Still cost me 75 bucks to find out, but it’s worth it to know it’s right.
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Had to move the muffler back 30 inches to clear the new transmission.
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Couldn’t believe how long it took to make a shifter. Must have 16 hours invested in it, but it seems to work real well. I started with the shifter that came with the transmission. It was too short and needed a bend, so I cut 10 inches off the top and welded on the shift lever from an old Chevy pickup. I decided to put the cross shaft inside the truck so I would only need 1 shift rod. That meant cutting off the pivot and the lower end of the original shift lever. In the end I only used a little over a foot of the original shifter. I brought in an old spare tire mount from a Bronco and cut out 29 inches of 1 1/2” tubing, then put a plastic bushing in each end from an old exercise machine. It took a few revisions to get the arm that goes through the floor to work properly, but eventually I got it. The boot is half of a double boot from some old Jeep and the shift rod was a couple tapered table legs. They worked good, large diameter in the middle, but small and thick at the ends.
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Finally got around to hooking up some air lines for the airbag suspension, automatic tire chains, air horn and a boost gauge for the turbo. So far, it’s all dead ended at the firewall. The inside plumbing comes later.
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A couple more hours of air line work and it’ll be time to start on fuel tanks. I’m a long way behind schedule, but moving forward, so eventually I’ll be ready to go. Maybe I need someone else in charge of scheduling. ha,ha
 

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Looks great! I know what you mean with the scheduling, some day I will get close to what I will call finished enough to use the darn thing...
 
Now thats a reality show I would actually watch instead of the BS on now. I miss my old lathe and mills moved so many times in the past it became a great burden San Fran is not homeshop friendly. Very impressive and will add value to your investment. Keep up the good work and thanks for posting so many great photos.
 
Baloo, you took on a bigger project than I did. Good thing you don't have me doing your scheduling. I'm not really very realistic.

Wagoneer, tools (like most everything else) make a one way trip to my place. Someone else can use them after I'm gone, until then I'm not giving up much of anything. My dad had a little metal lathe when I was a kid but didn't use it much. One winter he was a little hard up for money and sold it. He kicked himself in the butt about that on a pretty regular basis. He finally got to stop when I handed down my little first lathe 30 years later.... after getting a bigger one. ha,ha
 
You know looking back I never thought I would have gotten this far. Somehow it continues to work out, hopefully it will keep going till it is done! Also you are right about tools, the day you need them is the day after you sell em!
 
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