Transmission slams into second gear

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unicutie

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Thank God for the internet. This problem started today. I was camped out in the woods, it rained at night, this morning and all afternoon. I went into town, i got onto the main road, it wouldn't shift out of first for the longest time and then WHAM! it slammed violently into gear, ses light. I got myself to Walmart and started doing some research. I was panicking because a trans problem would sink me right now. So I read it's probably the throttle position sensor, I was wondering how I'm gonna find that out, and read that you can jump the pins on the obdpobdport on my model van . Yes the van flashed out to me, tps low voltage! Woop, so my trans is okay! Phew. Now i need to figure out how to get to the throttle body, my chilton book is not specific enough but I'm guessing i have to pop the bubble out? I guess it could be worse! Check out my odb code reader, nice eh?
zyuoSco


zyuoSco.jpg
 
Yes, the OBD1 older vehicles were lower tech. With Dodges you do what they call the 'key dance'...turn it on,off,on to read the codes.

The 'bubble' is usually referred to as the 'doghouse'. Try to find a Chevy forum where there are folks that will be very familiar with your 5.7 engine.

Good luck..
 
I've dealt with these problems since a Dodge Intrepid slammed into second (limp mode) with a friend of mine years ago.   They took it to a dealer who put a new solenoid in the transaxle for $600.  The part was around $200.  They had to drop the pan,  the valve body,  and bolt the new solenoid in, and then reassemble it.  At this point it gets a new filter, gasket and new transmission fluid.   But less than a year it did it again.

The vehicle has high mileage.   It was falling out of overdrive gear as if going into neutral until they coasted down to about 35 mph when it would slam into second gear. 

The original TPS (unit) was original.  These work like a volume control on a radio.  (a carbon potentiometer)

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They are held on with two screws.  The shaft that fits into it is shaped much like a screw driver so it's easy enough to get it set up properly before installing the new screws.

What seems to be happening on high mileage TPS units is that the carbon unit cracks or the area where the vehicle usually cruises wears.  If the vehicle has mostly high way miles on it then the wear will most likely be
in that area.  Then if it can't get a signal to the computer this may happen.   That Dodge I spoke of had 250K
on the original TPS when this was happening.

Loads of misery for those who don't know about this stuff...and only a $20 to $30 dollar part that can be replaced in a couple of minutes.


This is a Transmission Shift Control Solenoid for a Chrysler Product.

caja-de-solenoides-para-caja-604a-voyager-stratus-neon-D_NQ_NP_382901-MLM20447816005_102015-F.jpg
The red area is where the wiring plugs into the vehicles computer. 

Chrysler Transmissions have a couple of other small sensors on the drivers side that are inexpensive too.

Older experienced Parts Dept clerks can generally tell you which sensors they sell the most of as some are just more problematic.  

a65b_1.JPG


What this system does is to replace the shuttle valves and servos in their transmissions with electric solenoids with computer control. 

Those seeking to buy an old Cargo Van or RV that may be equipped with these types of sensors may be wise to stay with vehicles built after 1996 when the second generation of "On Board Diagnostic Code Readers".
It  is much easier to deal with when they have issues using the OBD2 and later equipment.  (and by now those are 20 years old unless they have verifiable low mileage)
 
I gonna go ahead and need those TPS reports by saturday, mmmmk
 
If you are wanting to check your TPS and have a analog VOM meter, you could connect the meter to the outputs of the TPS.  Then take a blade screw driver that will fit into the TSP and turn it.  Set the VOM to Ohm's Diode Leak and observe.  If you turn the screw driver int he TSP the needle of the VOM should follow in sync with our turning.  But if the needle jerks erratically or just goes back to zero when it reaches a certain spot the TPS may be the source of your problem.

You may have to make some leads for the meter that have clips that will hold to the pins in the TPS and not slip around.  (quite important)

Analog VOM meters can be found for $10 or less.

mgoPd-EKzVHA7z_-p8a0fpg.jpg
 
Nice info! I have a digital meter. It's enough to confirm that the wiring is fine. I haven't taken the tps off because well, now it's raining >_< I'd like to test it though. I'm not a fan of the fingers crossed method when it comes to buying things. But the book says, if it's not the wiring or ecm then it's gotta be the sensor. Makes sense, it's just a potentiometer, they do get glitchy and 'crackly' after a while. Like an old stereo. when it let's up raining I'm gonna walk down to the parts store
 
Those cheap analog meters are a good thing to have even if you have a nice digital like a Fluke etc.

I use one for many things when that needle tells me way more than a digital display can.... ;)
 
Easiest way to test a TPS is to run leads out of the connector, clip on your multimeter, and watch the change while slowly opening and closing the throttle (as well as baseline closed and WOT). Should be obvious if the output is bad.
 
Well i swapped it, it's shifting normally again. I'm hoping that fixed it!
 
Nice. IIRC you have a 700r4 which takes its cues from several sensors since it's really not a modern modern computer controlled trans. Probably not a bad idea to replace your VSS when you get a chance too since they go out of tolerance and get gunked up over time.
 
Couldn't remember what year they switched. Mind you, the 4L60e is just an electronically controlled 700R4.
 
"Mind you, the 4L60e is just an electronically controlled 700R4"

I have to disagree with that, a 700r4 is basically a T350 with overdrive. a 4L60 is basically a T400 with OD. of course there are improvements throughout, a 4L60 is worlds above a 700r. if I was building a vehicle I would never consider a using a 700r, but a 4L60 could happen. highdesertranger
 
made me look,all 4l80's are electronic

they upgraded the 700r throughout its production,i was told to find a 1987-92? and build it with modern upgrades and you will have something that can up to 5-600hp? the early 700r is basically crap
 
Would this pertain ?   To the slamming into second gear.


The 4L80-E (and similar 4L85-E) was a series of automatic transmissions from General Motors. ... Note: These transmissions have issues with early style 12 pin harnesses in which transmission fluid leaks around the harness and shorts the pinouts causing transmission to go into "limp mode" This issue can be easily rectified


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_4L80-E_transmission
 

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