shopping for induction cooktop

[4k4000]

I'm shopping for a portable countertop induction cooktop. I searched the forum and found threads discussing general use, but didn't find any reviews of specific units.

I'm considering the IKEA TILLREDA but after watching some reviews on YouTube it seems like the fan is kinda noisy. I also found an Electric Induction Cooktop, iSiLER 1800W Sensor Touch Portable Induction Cooker Cooktop on Amazon which someone there reviewed as "less noisy than most". I wonder if they are all the same or if the noise isn't as bad in real life as it seems in the videos.

And also I'd like to get a generally high quality unit that will be reliable. Maybe someone with experience can comment. Thanks.

 

[rvwandering]

Welcome to the CRVL forums 4k4000! I edited your post because forum rules require members to have 10 posts before including links.

To help you learn the ins and outs of these forums, this "Tips, Tricks and Rules" post lists some helpful information to get you started. We look forward to hearing more from you.

 

[RogerD]

The iSiLER 1800W Sensor Touch is the one I plan to buy.

Just not at the top of priorities, so I haven't gotten around to it.

 

[maki2]

I am speaking to you from the experience of having used a portable induction cook top for all my cooking for the last decade.

I would suggest you focus your search on finding a 1500 watt unit, it will meet your needs just fine. The 1800 watt units are great for a kitchen in a house where you have a dedicated 20 amp circuit with its own breaker. That is the current electrical code for kitchens in homes. But that is not what you are likely to have in your home on wheels. So for the health of your electrical system use a 1500 watt unit.

You will very rarely want to use the burner on the highest heat level so you really don't need 1800 watts, 1500 is quite sufficient. Besides that the biggest enemy and fastest way of destroying the non stick coatings on pans is to use them on a very high heat setting. It is not the scratches that are the largest problem it is loosing the non stick property and using them on really high heat will make that happen.

Be sure the unit has a full glass top with the controls located under the glass. If there is any plastic near the upper surface areas the heat of the heat from the bottom of the pan generated while things are cooking will eventually destroy the plastic. The more heat levels and fine tuning of temperature you can get the easier your cooking chore will be. So 1,500 watts, full glass tip, lots of options for the temperature setting. There are not a lot of units out there that meet that criteria but there are a few. Those are the sweet spot list of items to aim for to get the best results for a home on wheels kitchen.

I just took a quick look on Amazon at the offerings and this unit is quite good, full glass top. A choice of 15 temperature settings, plenty of good reviews. Not a bulky unit which makes storage easier.
https://www.amazon.com/UltraThin-Po...=1552773015&s=gateway&sr=8-16&tag=googhydr-20

 

[4k4000]

Thanks very much Maki2. I like the compact design of the Duxtop 9300ST Ultra Thin you linked.

Limiting my search to a 1500w unit is something I hadn't thought of. I downloaded the user guide for the Duxtop. It states that a 15 amp circuit is required. So that would indeed seem less demanding than something which requires a 20 amp circuit.

I couldn't find a way to download a user guide on the iSiLER website (which in itself is a negative), so I don't know what the amp draw is on the iSiLER 1800W Sensor Touch. From the iSiLER product description, it states 9 power levels can be selected starting at 100w and going up in increments of 200 to 1800w. So if level 1 is 100w then level 8 might be 1500w. But I don't know if limiting the power draw in that manner would address the amp draw issue.

 

[maki2]

Of course it is up to you for how you want to set up your own kitchen. If you truly want the 1800 watt unit then I don't mind in the least

The 1500 to 1800 watt units with a single burner can both use a 15 amp breaker. A unit with more than one burner would need the larger breaker as the total amps could exceed a 15 amp breaker.

 

[Weight]

Induction uses a lot of power from battery. Only plan if you are using mains power. Get a butane stove for off grid. I do like my induction, the cheapest I could find about 5 years ago.

 

[maki2]

Actually you can use induction if you are not on mains power. Quite a few boon dockers do that but it all about how they have met their electrical  power needs with solar, battery storage and/or generators.

Some people have lots of solar power and large battery banks. They have no issues with using induction cooking while boon docking. That makes induction cooking  easy without being on mains power. If you are generating that kind of power you might as well take good advantage of it for clean/green cooking without fossil fuel. Of course many individuals who boon dock use generators which can also work for powering an induction cook top. They also like to run Insta Pots and microwaves with those high powered panels, battery banks and generators. If a nice new, big, fuel efficient, van with my own personal substantially sized solar farm, was within my financial reach on my modest retirement income I would be one of those people

 

[Weight]

I'm a Cheap RV Dweller. I can't fit that much solar on my roof. And generators are costly to operate. gas camp stove for me.

 

[4k4000]

I appreciate the perspectives on whether induction is or isn't right for you, and I am learning a lot!

My main reason for the thread though is just to ask those who do use induction about their own experiences with specific induction units that they either like or don't like. Thanks!

 

[highdesertranger]

very diplomatic response 4k4000. I like it. highdesertranger

 

[Weight]

The logo on my inductive is "Aroma". I bought it at a discount store in 2014 or 2015. It was refurbished and cost $45. The plastic housing is now all cracked with small hunks missing. I use it every day when I'm not on the road. It still works well but I want a new model. Cant decide from all that are on Amazon, but lean to this; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045QEPYM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A2EPN08Z0FPLG4&psc=1

 

[tailwind]

Some people have lots of solar power and large battery banks. They have no issues with using induction cooking while boon docking. That makes induction cooking  easy without being on mains power.

Hi, can someone tell me, what size inverter is needed to run a 1500w induction cooker like the one linked to previously?

Or, is there a cooker smaller than 1500w?  If so, what is the minimum inverter size needed, to run an electric cooker that can boil water?  thanks for any help

 

[tx2sturgis]

Do some research to confirm you really want an induction cooktop.

They cost more, they only work with compatible pots and pans, and of course, anything with electronics that heats up can fail, sooner or later.

https://www.centurylife.org/is-indu...-energy-efficiency-comparison-between-stoves/

https://www.chowhound.com/post/induction-cooking-energy-efficient-dept-energy-1019044

From Wikipedia:

"In 2013 and 2014 DOE developed and proposed new test procedures for cooking products to allow direct comparison of energy transfer efficiency measurements among induction, electric resistance, and gas cooking tops and ranges. The procedures use a new hybrid test block made of aluminum and stainless steel, so it is suitable for tests on induction cookers. The proposed rule lists results of real lab tests conducted with the hybrid block. For comparable (large) cooking elements the following efficiencies were measured with ±0.5% repeatability: 70.7% - 73.6% for induction, 71.9% for electric coil, 43.9% for gas. Summarizing the results of several tests, DOE affirms that "induction units have an average efficiency of 72.2%, not significantly higher than the 69.9% efficiency of smooth—electric resistance units, or the 71.2% of electric coil units".[4] Moreover, DOE reminds that the 84% induction efficiency, cited in previous Technical Support Documents, was not measured by DOE laboratories but just "referenced from an external test study" performed in 1992.[4]

In addition independent tests conducted by manufacturers,[5] research laboratories[1] and other subjects seem to demonstrate that actual induction cooking efficiencies stays usually between 74% and 77% and reach occasionally 81% (although these tests could follow procedures different from that of DOE). These clues indicate that the 84% induction average efficiency reference value should be taken with caution."

{end quote}

Unless all of your cooking only takes a few minutes, the efficiency is not as great as the manufacturers claim.

If you are sure you want one, and really like the modern idea of cooking with magnetism,  be sure to include the cost of the compatible pots and pans if you don't have them. 

Just don't be fooled by the claims of MUCH higher efficiency. 

My $10 and $20 electric plug-in hot-plates do a fine job, and work with any pot or pan I want to use.

 

[maki2]

Don't even worry about the cost of pots for use on an induction cook top. There are plenty of suitable pots around in the thrift stores to be had for just a few dollars. That is how I have acquired all of my induction pots. I have never even once spent more than $6.00 for an induction compatible pot.

Take a magnet with you when you go shopping. If it sticks and the bottom of the pot is flat it works.

 

[Weight]

Money saving. I have found many quality pots in overstock type stores. Also my 150 year old cast iron works great on inductive. You will need a 2000 watt true sine wave inverter. Also a battery bank that can supply over 100 amps for as long as it takes to cook. On high it could be 160 amps. Remember, if it takes 10 minutes to boil pasta on a flame, it takes 10 minutes to boil pasta on a inductive cooker. Then there is the question of recharging the battery bank.

 

[4k4000]

Weight, thanks for this info on what is required to power these units. Very helpful!
tx2sturgis, thanks for that great info and those links to the research articles which I found very interesting!

So far I only have one piece of induction-compatible cookware. But I like it so much that I'm considering getting the whole 10-piece set. It's the GreenPan Minneapolis 8" stainless steel frying pan. I got it at Target for about $25, and the ceramic non-stick coating is excellent - much more durable than any Teflon coated cookware I've owned. I also like that it has an insulated handle so I don't need to use a potholder when it's hot.

I'm still leaning toward the iSiLER, though today I got a message in my Amazon shopping cart that the price has gone up to $70. I should have ordered last week HaHa!

 

[4k4000]

Doing a bit of research today and just happened to find a new video just posted today where she uses the iSiLER set at 300 watts which seems very relevant to this forum and thread.

I'm not sure if I can post links here yet, so just search YouTube for a video called "Induction Cooking in a Car & My Super Power" by Pam On The Lam.

The particular iSiLER model she is using is the one with all touch controls, and without the rotary knob, and costs $10 less than the one with the knob. (Both models with and without the rotary knob appear on the same Amazon product page.)

One advantage of the model she is using (without the knob) is that the exact wattage is displayed on the display instead of the  "P1, P2, P3... etc" displayed on the knob-equipped model.

 

[maki2]

Just take the plunge and buy one. If you don't like it return it or sell it to someone else.

 

[Stargazer]

I have used the NuWave for about three years in my RV and absolutely love it.  Note that it has always been on mains power so I cannot speak to use with a solar system.

I originally bought this because a friend was getting one and there was a buy-one-get-one-free (which turned out to be Bologna because the S&H was the same price as the cooktop, but I digress).  I am not a gadget person nor do I like to cook.  But my friend said it wouldn't make the place as hot as our propane stoves in summer.  Frankly, I figured it would end up in the donation pile.  NOT!  I used it exclusively!

I moved back into a S&B last fall and didn't bring it with me; after all, the house had a beautiful gas range/oven.  Took me about a month to acquire another NuWave -- hate this gas range compared to the NuWave.  

What I really like about it is the "Sear" option -- I do a lot of stir frying which requires high heat.  I also like that the temperature can be adjusted in 10 degree increments.  Remove the pan and it shuts off, replace the pan on the burner, press start and it's back on with the same setting.  It does have the plastic covered buttons but I haven't had a problem with the covering degrading (yet), as someone previously mentioned.  

One of their units has an adjustable wattage setting.  I never used that feature but it could certainly be useful for those with limited power.

The only thing I don't like about it is the cord.  It's about three feet long and in this kitchen that is a bit of a PITA.  With the short cord, I am forced to use it below the kitchen cabinets and cooking steam will eventually damage the finish on the cabinetry above.  I sometimes use a heavy duty extension cord.  Depends on what I'm cooking and for how long.  Like boiling pasta or anything that creates lots of steam.  If the cord was longer, I could set it on top of the range and use the vent hood above.

If I had all the money in the world, I would rip out the gas range/oven in this house and replace it with a built in induction cooktop.

I can't compare it to other brands but after reading reviews of them, I see they don't get as hot, temp settings are in 40 degree increments, fans are noisy (this one isn't very loud), if you remove the pan, it shuts off after a minute (not instantly) and some complained that restarting required multiple steps.  So I am very happy with the NuWave.