Schematic Rev 1 Review Please!

[Rafrojack]

[font=Verdana, Arial]Hi fellow van nomads,[/font]


:huh:
[font=Verdana, Arial]I've been knee deep in analysis over my electrical system for my van. Please take a look at the attached picture & let me know what needs to be changed! I've placed questions that I'm worried about in the same graphic. Positive criticism is needed! My main wickets to hit are: [/font]



[font=Verdana, Arial]1. More than enough power for two people. [/font]



[font=Verdana, Arial]2. Most up to date configuration on theory & parts. [/font]



[font=Verdana, Arial]3. Great quality parts & workmanship. Also, minimum # of parts/wiring without sacrificing safety & workmanship.[/font]



[font=Verdana, Arial]4. Shore power access & alternator b2b charger for emergencies.[/font]



[font=Verdana, Arial]Thank you for coming to my TED[/font][font=Verdana, Arial]VanLife [/font][font=Verdana, Arial] talk.[/font]

 

[B and C]

You need a disconnect between the panels and the controller so you can work on or change the batteries.  Your charge controller should be connected directly to the batteries.  With three 12 v batteries you will want to wire them like this:



The picture came out kinda small for me to critique it much.

 

[Rafrojack]

Attached is a larger image! Hopefully this helps!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VnufbJF8rtiuhVGg8

 

[B and C]

Let me give it a whirl. Probably need to work on it pieces at a time.

From your 1000 watt inverter you have the output going to a 120 V distribution panel with a 200 amp breaker. This is the size breaker I have feeding my entire house that has 3 air conditioners, 2 - 5 ton and one 3 ton. Converting those 1000 watts to amps means that should be a 10 amp breaker which is good for 1200 watts. This will give you some surge room.

Your panels are in a series / parallel configuration. This is what I have. You need a disconnect on the panel wires feeding the controller. You will have to work on the batteries at some point in time and the panels will need to be disconnected before disconnecting the batteries.

On your DC to DC charger, you need a fuse on the 24 v? input side. You must have a diesel. Not sure how they get 12 v out of the required 24 v for starting. Put the fuse close to the battery. Same on the house battery side, close to the house battery.

Make those fixes and post the revised plan.

 

[gapper2]

also I don't believe temp sensors are used on lithium batteries.  are they?

easier to read adjusted image when enlargedView attachment 24486

 

[gapper2]

again

 

[highdesertranger]

LOL we are a bunch of old people. at least I am, I can't read that fine print on any of the pics and when a try to blow it up it gets all blurry. highdesertranger

 

[Sky King]

Both my diesels have 2 12v batteries but are NOT 24v, They are both 12v with 2 batteries each.

 

[Rafrojack]

Let me give it a whirl.  Probably need to work on it pieces at a time.

From your 1000 watt inverter you have the output going to a 120 V distribution panel with a 200 amp breaker.  This is the size breaker I have feeding my entire house that has 3 air conditioners, 2 - 5 ton and one 3 ton.  Converting those 1000 watts to amps means that should be a 10 amp breaker which is good for 1200 watts.  This will give you some surge room.

Your panels are in a series / parallel configuration.  This is what I have.  You need a disconnect on the panel wires feeding the controller.  You will have to work on the batteries at some point in time and the panels will need to be disconnected before disconnecting the batteries.

On your DC to DC charger, you need a fuse on the 24 v?  input side.  You must have a diesel.  Not sure how they get 12 v out of the required 24 v for starting.  Put the fuse close to the battery.  Same on the house battery side, close to the house battery.

Make those fixes and post the revised plan.

 

[Rafrojack]

also I don't believe temp sensors are used on lithium batteries.  are they?

easier to read adjusted image when enlarged

 

[Rafrojack]

You need a disconnect between the panels and the controller so you can work on or change the batteries.  Your charge controller should be connected directly to the batteries.  With three 12 v batteries you will want to wire them like this:



The picture came out kinda small for me to critique it much.

 

[gapper2]

From the manual on your batteries:

Temperature Compensation

Temperature compensation is not needed with our batteries and in some cases, may trigger the built in BMS to go into protect mode. For this reason, we recommend that temperature compensation be shut off or set to 0.

 

[B and C]

Every connection is a resistance point. You want to squeeze out as much from your system as possible.

Fuse size is determined by cable size.

 

[Rafrojack]

I've been so deep into this wiring hole that now I'm confusing myself. I have four 12v, 5.29a, 100w panels for a 300ah (3) battery bank & a 40 amp MPPT (to allow for growth of the system in the future). I'm assuming I'd want to wire the panels in parallel so that my voltage stays at 12v, amps increase to 21.16a & watts at 400w...which is what I want for efficient charging right? If I do series-parallel my panels will then produce 24v, 10.58a, & 400w which is not ideal. If in series I'll produce 48v, 5.29a, & 400w. Can someone please check me on this. I've drank too much of the kool-aid.

 

[B and C]

Series parallel is a very common arrangement. The higher voltage has less voltage drop over the same distance of wires. A MPPT controller will take the higher voltage and convert it to amps thereby getting more amperage out of the panels and into your batteries.

The caveat is if one of the two series panels is shaded, both panels get taken out of producing power.

The plus is the panels will output power in lower light (cloudy) situations.