SternWake
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Moderators and readers, and Bob.
Due to the possible dangerous nature of Equalization charging, I have reread and edited this several times, and 'think' it is clear enough, but would like input as to what is not clear enough, or could be made clearer. I would like the option to edit this initial post, outside that usual 15 minute window, if possible.
Then of course have all helpful critical posts deleted, the thread locked, made a sticky, and have legions of vandwellers worldwide chant my screen name in reverent tones, and send me money.
Kidding of course, I hate praise and compliments.
Some redundancy below, perhaps not all, was intentional.
----
EQ charging is an intentional overcharge, applied to flooded/wet batteries whose capacity/performance is compromised from many deep cycles without being fully recharged in between. The procedure is intended to dissolve the sulfation from the plates back into the electrolyte, and restore lost capacity/performance of the battery and extend its useful lifespan.
EQ charging brings the 12v flooded lead acid already fully charged battery, upto as high as 16.2volts, as recommended by Trojan, and Rolls Surrette, the two top dogs in the flooded deep cycle battery world. Recently Trojan increased their recommended EQ voltage from 15.5v, to 16.2v.
EQ charging can allow the battery to recharge faster on subsequent recharge cycles, reducing the time from 80% to 100%, or just from 80% to as High as possible. If one has a very high amperage charging source for minimal generator run times, an EQ charge can allow the EQ'd depleted battery to then accept higher amps and recharge faster, saving fuel, and noise polluting less.
EQ charging is abusive to a battery, but can restore lost capacity, and help the maintenance minded frugal user to get the longest lifespan possible from their batteries. It can also be the 'Hail Mary' attempt for the battery abuser, to try and restore as much capacity as possible on batteries whose performance and capacity has obviously degraded, so that they have time to save up for, and shop for new batteries and still have enough capacity to meet their immediate needs.
EQ charging does not guarantee restored performance to an abused battery but is the best way to attempt to accomplish it.
EQ charging can be dangerous. It requires the Human initiating the EQ charge cycle be there to monitor the procedure, with a Voltmeter, an Hydrometer and a Thermometer, and optionally an Ammeter as well, with good ventilation.
If this human is not you, please click the back button and move onto other threads. From here on out some moderate DIY ability of the user, and an ability to employ logic and common sense will be assumed.
An EQ charge should ONLY be initiated after the flooded battery, at 77f, has been brought to and held at ~14.8v for a few hours before hand, meaning a normal 'full' charge. Do not attach the following linked product, an adjustable voltage power supply previously set to 16+ volts, to a battery that is less than fully charged via the regular charging sources.
Very few charging sources will allow voltages high enough to meet the prescribed criteria of Trojan or Rolls Surrette for equalizing a battery. Even the 500+ dollar programmable chargers might only goto 15.5v. In my experience, what took over 4 hours at 15.5v, took under 45 minutes at 16v. Less abusive is 45 minutes at 16v.
The following product will allow a person to bring upto ~450AH of flooded batteries , to 16.2 volts to perform the EQ charge. If one has more capacity than this it might still be able to achieve 16v, but one can always take a 12v battery or pair of 6v's out of the loop, and do it/them separately.
https://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-NES...481500651&sr=8-1&keywords=meanwell+nes-350-15
http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=NES-350
One needs to provide their own AC and DC cabling to this power supply. One can cut off a 3 prong household AC power cord of no less than 16awg, preferably thicker, for the AC input. One could also just purchase a power tool replacement power cord at any Home Improvement store. I cut off the cord from an older power strip. AC power cords will have 3 wires, Black white and green. Hook green to ground, white wire to terminal marked N, and black wire to terminal marked L.
The above cropped pic is my modified MeanWell RSP-500-15. The MeanWell NES-350-15 power supply which is the star of this thread, has a slightly different appearance.
For the DC output, one might have red and black alligator clamps with wires attached floating around which one can clamp to battery terminals, or can cut off the 12v ciggy receptacle (then smash it with a BF hammer while cursing violently, as a sacrifice to the gods of DC electricity) and strip the insulation from a product like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Ext...qid=1481502011&sr=1-13&keywords=12v+extension
Shorter thicker wire would be better to minimize voltage drop between battery terminal and DC output on power supply. Even a 10$ set of cheesy jumper cables from a drug store , cut in half, would be more than adequate for this task and better than the 16awg wires in the rocktek product linked above.
On first use, When not hooked to DC, but when plugged into 120vAC, one needs to adjust the voltage on the DC output to 16v to 16.2v, and THEN, one can hook it to the battery that requires equalization.
After the voltage is set, it should be good to go for subsequent EQ charges and order of hooking things up is not critical.
One carefully adjusts the voltage when unhooked to a battery with a Jeweler's screwdriver, turning a small potentiometer visible on the front of the unit very slowly, while watching their digital multimeter set to DC volts whose leads are on the DC output terminals.
Please Note that this tiny voltage potentiometer is not rated for many twisting cycles, only 50. It is not designed to be be moved often and WILL wear out if it is adjusted often.
Also Note that that MeanWell makes many power supplies, some of them may be cheaper, higher or lower wattage, have different voltage ranges, and the picture might look the same or similar enough, and one's frugal nature might yell a Eureka! and click 'place order.' The linked MeanWell, the NES-350-15, has 'constant current limiting' on overload, which makes it possible to use this for battery charging, and its voltage range is acceptable for the purpose of EQing a 12v lead acid flooded battery.
There are a few other MeanWells and other brand power supplies that could perform this task properly, but honestly, the price in the link, even with the shipping, is very good at slightly over 50$.
Do not use the lesser $$ power supplies one might see in the related items links or similar product searches. They might not have the voltage range, or built in safety protections for over temperature, overvoltage, or overcurrent, and could/will be be a fire hazard. There are exceptions but I will not be searching them out. Iwould much prefer not having to or yaying or Naying any possibilities found which might save the reader 10$.
Procedure:
With Voltage preset to 16 to 16.2v unloaded, hook DC clamps to 'fully' charged battery with all DC loads turned off, and possible sensitive DC loads removed/having their fuse pulled so that they are not exposed to this possibly damaging higher DC voltage. Absorption fridge circuit boards are know to be susceptible to voltages over 15.3v
Voltage at the battery terminals will read closer to 14.8v than it will to 16.2v, but it will, in time, rise upto 16.2. This time depends on many variables. The biggest variable outside the battery itself, is the wire thickness and length. Shorter fatter is better.
The battery will start bubbling vigorously and smell of sulfur. Good ventilation please. Having some baking soda dissolved in water to neutralize acid nearby, as a safety precaution, is not unwise. Do not get any into cells or Hydrometer unless it is an emergency.
Wearing eye protection, carefully loosen and remove the cell cap/cover and dip the Hydrometer to take a reading.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Pro...=UTF8&qid=1481503192&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+4619
The most precise and accurate hydrometers are made by francis freas.
http://www.freasglass.com/
The OTC is good enough, especially when future readings are compared to itself. Avoid the plastic EZ red hydrometers and similar, they are both imprecise and inaccurate with little repeatability.
Trojan says 100% charged Specific gravity is 1.277, but in my experience the maximum specific gravity can be slightly higher when electrolyte levels are low, or slightly lower if recently was serviced, or overfilled. The goal here is to get the specific gravity to go as high as it can go, without needlessly holding the battery at 16.2v for longer than it requires to reach this point. The level of electrolyte in the cells plays a part in the maximum reading, so one might want to take note of the level in the cells and notes recording the Specific gravity in the cells for future reference.
When Specific gravity no longer rises on all cells, accounting for naturally occurring rising electrolyte temperatures during the EQ charge, terminate the EQ charge. There will usually be one cell which always reads lowest, so during EQ one can just check that cell, rather than all 6 and save some time.
When and IF battery temperature starts climbing to 110F, terminate EQ charge. 120F is the absolute cut off point, if one is a gambler. One can generally feel this with their hand if they do not own an IR temp gun. In My experience once the battery starts heating to the point it feels warm to my hand, the battery from there rapidly increases the rate of heating, and monitoring more frequently is recommended.
If one has an Ammeter on the DC outputs, IF amperage required to maintain 16 volts starts increasing ( It should be steady at first, then start dropping slightly after reaching 16v) terminate EQ charge. When amperage to maintain 15.5+v starts increasing, thermal runaway has begun. Avoid thermal runaway. Terminate EQ charge.
In general it will require 5 amps per 100Ah of capacity to bring the battery to 16v. If it requires more than this, the battery likely required more time at 14.8v and was not otherwise 'fully' charged.
'Fully' is in quotes, as fully charged is really only accomplished after the EQ session, or when the battery is reading 1.277 SG on all cells with a normal 14.8v absorption voltage applied for X amount of time.
If specific gravity still varies by more than 0.015 between the cells, or if it is no where near 1.275 when EQ charge was terminated, the EQ charge can be restarted, but ONLY after battery has cooled back to room temperature, and only if it has not been reattached to DC loads and has not discharged at all while it cooled.
The battery might respond nicely, or it might not. If SG does not respond, or increase to hoped for levels before the human monitoring the procedure terminated it, it is not a good sign, but it might still be able to be improved upon with another EQ session initiated once battery has cooled back to 80F or so. It is possible that a deep cycle to 50% or less, followed by a full charge via the normal charging sources, then an EQ charge will then allow the Specific gravity to rise closer to that 1.277 level, or whatever maximum the user has previously noted.
The time required for SG to reach 1.277, or the previously recorded maximums, could be as little as 15 minutes, and as long as ??. I've never required more than 4 hours, and 45 minutes became the average time required to max out SG on my most recent petulant group31 flooded battery, but it required the EQ charge every 14 deep cycles, otherwise the time increased. Each battery will be different.
Options. The Ammeter.
https://www.amazon.com/Sangdo-G-T-P...209&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GTpower+wattmeter
or
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digit...qid=1481514560&sr=1-2&keywords=bayite+ammeter
Shop around, many clones of the original 'Watt's up' meter exist for as low as sub10$ These are useful for voltage and amperage and total AH and Wh returned into battery when wired between battery and power supply.
The power supply should not be left connected to DC when not in use. It would likely present a small parasitic load. Do not hardwire it without a method for breaking the DC circuit for when not in use. I use Anderson powerpoles in the 45 amp rating, and just pull them apart, then unplug the AC cord.
The power supply CAN be used as a regular charger, but depleted batteries Will max it out and possibly overheat it, and batteries need to spend 4 hours at 14.8v or less before, being allowed to seek 16+v for the EQ charge the potentiometer included is not made for repeated adjustments.
I use my MeanWell RSP-500-15 as a Manual Bulk charger, absorption charger, top charger, float charger/power supply, and as an EQ charger.
But mine is modified with a better voltage adjustment potentiometer rated for thousands of cycles, not just 50. I have also increased airflow and heatsinking as when maxed out at 40 amps, it will get HOT, and cool electronics are happy electronics.
When one is comfortable performing a proper EQ charge, they are also comfortable busting out the hydrometer to see if their other regular charging sources are indeed fully charging the batteries when they drop to float voltage. These hydrometer dippings almost always reveal that the other charging sources are bald faced liars, and that more time was required at absorption voltage. The user then hopefully can accommodate this longer absorption voltage, and then not only will the batteries last longer, but the frequency that EQ charges need to be performed from then on, will be further apart, and require less time.
I have a thread on my Meanwell RSP-500-15 power supply here for those interested:
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy
--------
For users of AGM batteries who have read this far, Sign this waiver relieving me of all responsibility, then continue reading.
AGM's can be EQ'd too, though only Lifeline recommends it, and they call it a 'reconditioning' cycle. The process is similar to that described above, but Lifeline say 15.5v max, for 8 hours at 77F initial battery temperature.
See page 20, section 5.5,
http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/manual.pdf
Those with Lesser AGMS and who have acquired the product which its the topic of this thread, need to limit the voltage to 15.5v, and monitor the battery very closely for excessive heating. The AGM will likely vent a bit, which is not ideal, but if it does restore some capacity, and it likely will, there is little harm. AGM venting is not an instant death, unless it is allowed to go into thermal runaway.
Be extra sure to not initiate 15.5v until the AGM battery has been held at ~14.7v for an adequate period of time, and amperage required to hold 100AH of AGM capacity tapered to 0.5amp or less
'Reconditioning' an AGM is balancing that more expensive spinning plate on a duller slippier stick, compared to EQ'ing a flooded battery.
Due to the possible dangerous nature of Equalization charging, I have reread and edited this several times, and 'think' it is clear enough, but would like input as to what is not clear enough, or could be made clearer. I would like the option to edit this initial post, outside that usual 15 minute window, if possible.
Then of course have all helpful critical posts deleted, the thread locked, made a sticky, and have legions of vandwellers worldwide chant my screen name in reverent tones, and send me money.
Kidding of course, I hate praise and compliments.
Some redundancy below, perhaps not all, was intentional.
----
EQ charging is an intentional overcharge, applied to flooded/wet batteries whose capacity/performance is compromised from many deep cycles without being fully recharged in between. The procedure is intended to dissolve the sulfation from the plates back into the electrolyte, and restore lost capacity/performance of the battery and extend its useful lifespan.
EQ charging brings the 12v flooded lead acid already fully charged battery, upto as high as 16.2volts, as recommended by Trojan, and Rolls Surrette, the two top dogs in the flooded deep cycle battery world. Recently Trojan increased their recommended EQ voltage from 15.5v, to 16.2v.
EQ charging can allow the battery to recharge faster on subsequent recharge cycles, reducing the time from 80% to 100%, or just from 80% to as High as possible. If one has a very high amperage charging source for minimal generator run times, an EQ charge can allow the EQ'd depleted battery to then accept higher amps and recharge faster, saving fuel, and noise polluting less.
EQ charging is abusive to a battery, but can restore lost capacity, and help the maintenance minded frugal user to get the longest lifespan possible from their batteries. It can also be the 'Hail Mary' attempt for the battery abuser, to try and restore as much capacity as possible on batteries whose performance and capacity has obviously degraded, so that they have time to save up for, and shop for new batteries and still have enough capacity to meet their immediate needs.
EQ charging does not guarantee restored performance to an abused battery but is the best way to attempt to accomplish it.
EQ charging can be dangerous. It requires the Human initiating the EQ charge cycle be there to monitor the procedure, with a Voltmeter, an Hydrometer and a Thermometer, and optionally an Ammeter as well, with good ventilation.
If this human is not you, please click the back button and move onto other threads. From here on out some moderate DIY ability of the user, and an ability to employ logic and common sense will be assumed.
An EQ charge should ONLY be initiated after the flooded battery, at 77f, has been brought to and held at ~14.8v for a few hours before hand, meaning a normal 'full' charge. Do not attach the following linked product, an adjustable voltage power supply previously set to 16+ volts, to a battery that is less than fully charged via the regular charging sources.
Very few charging sources will allow voltages high enough to meet the prescribed criteria of Trojan or Rolls Surrette for equalizing a battery. Even the 500+ dollar programmable chargers might only goto 15.5v. In my experience, what took over 4 hours at 15.5v, took under 45 minutes at 16v. Less abusive is 45 minutes at 16v.
The following product will allow a person to bring upto ~450AH of flooded batteries , to 16.2 volts to perform the EQ charge. If one has more capacity than this it might still be able to achieve 16v, but one can always take a 12v battery or pair of 6v's out of the loop, and do it/them separately.
https://www.amazon.com/Meanwell-NES...481500651&sr=8-1&keywords=meanwell+nes-350-15
http://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=NES-350
One needs to provide their own AC and DC cabling to this power supply. One can cut off a 3 prong household AC power cord of no less than 16awg, preferably thicker, for the AC input. One could also just purchase a power tool replacement power cord at any Home Improvement store. I cut off the cord from an older power strip. AC power cords will have 3 wires, Black white and green. Hook green to ground, white wire to terminal marked N, and black wire to terminal marked L.
The above cropped pic is my modified MeanWell RSP-500-15. The MeanWell NES-350-15 power supply which is the star of this thread, has a slightly different appearance.
For the DC output, one might have red and black alligator clamps with wires attached floating around which one can clamp to battery terminals, or can cut off the 12v ciggy receptacle (then smash it with a BF hammer while cursing violently, as a sacrifice to the gods of DC electricity) and strip the insulation from a product like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Ext...qid=1481502011&sr=1-13&keywords=12v+extension
Shorter thicker wire would be better to minimize voltage drop between battery terminal and DC output on power supply. Even a 10$ set of cheesy jumper cables from a drug store , cut in half, would be more than adequate for this task and better than the 16awg wires in the rocktek product linked above.
On first use, When not hooked to DC, but when plugged into 120vAC, one needs to adjust the voltage on the DC output to 16v to 16.2v, and THEN, one can hook it to the battery that requires equalization.
After the voltage is set, it should be good to go for subsequent EQ charges and order of hooking things up is not critical.
One carefully adjusts the voltage when unhooked to a battery with a Jeweler's screwdriver, turning a small potentiometer visible on the front of the unit very slowly, while watching their digital multimeter set to DC volts whose leads are on the DC output terminals.
Please Note that this tiny voltage potentiometer is not rated for many twisting cycles, only 50. It is not designed to be be moved often and WILL wear out if it is adjusted often.
Also Note that that MeanWell makes many power supplies, some of them may be cheaper, higher or lower wattage, have different voltage ranges, and the picture might look the same or similar enough, and one's frugal nature might yell a Eureka! and click 'place order.' The linked MeanWell, the NES-350-15, has 'constant current limiting' on overload, which makes it possible to use this for battery charging, and its voltage range is acceptable for the purpose of EQing a 12v lead acid flooded battery.
There are a few other MeanWells and other brand power supplies that could perform this task properly, but honestly, the price in the link, even with the shipping, is very good at slightly over 50$.
Do not use the lesser $$ power supplies one might see in the related items links or similar product searches. They might not have the voltage range, or built in safety protections for over temperature, overvoltage, or overcurrent, and could/will be be a fire hazard. There are exceptions but I will not be searching them out. Iwould much prefer not having to or yaying or Naying any possibilities found which might save the reader 10$.
Procedure:
With Voltage preset to 16 to 16.2v unloaded, hook DC clamps to 'fully' charged battery with all DC loads turned off, and possible sensitive DC loads removed/having their fuse pulled so that they are not exposed to this possibly damaging higher DC voltage. Absorption fridge circuit boards are know to be susceptible to voltages over 15.3v
Voltage at the battery terminals will read closer to 14.8v than it will to 16.2v, but it will, in time, rise upto 16.2. This time depends on many variables. The biggest variable outside the battery itself, is the wire thickness and length. Shorter fatter is better.
The battery will start bubbling vigorously and smell of sulfur. Good ventilation please. Having some baking soda dissolved in water to neutralize acid nearby, as a safety precaution, is not unwise. Do not get any into cells or Hydrometer unless it is an emergency.
Wearing eye protection, carefully loosen and remove the cell cap/cover and dip the Hydrometer to take a reading.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Pro...=UTF8&qid=1481503192&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+4619
The most precise and accurate hydrometers are made by francis freas.
http://www.freasglass.com/
The OTC is good enough, especially when future readings are compared to itself. Avoid the plastic EZ red hydrometers and similar, they are both imprecise and inaccurate with little repeatability.
Trojan says 100% charged Specific gravity is 1.277, but in my experience the maximum specific gravity can be slightly higher when electrolyte levels are low, or slightly lower if recently was serviced, or overfilled. The goal here is to get the specific gravity to go as high as it can go, without needlessly holding the battery at 16.2v for longer than it requires to reach this point. The level of electrolyte in the cells plays a part in the maximum reading, so one might want to take note of the level in the cells and notes recording the Specific gravity in the cells for future reference.
When Specific gravity no longer rises on all cells, accounting for naturally occurring rising electrolyte temperatures during the EQ charge, terminate the EQ charge. There will usually be one cell which always reads lowest, so during EQ one can just check that cell, rather than all 6 and save some time.
When and IF battery temperature starts climbing to 110F, terminate EQ charge. 120F is the absolute cut off point, if one is a gambler. One can generally feel this with their hand if they do not own an IR temp gun. In My experience once the battery starts heating to the point it feels warm to my hand, the battery from there rapidly increases the rate of heating, and monitoring more frequently is recommended.
If one has an Ammeter on the DC outputs, IF amperage required to maintain 16 volts starts increasing ( It should be steady at first, then start dropping slightly after reaching 16v) terminate EQ charge. When amperage to maintain 15.5+v starts increasing, thermal runaway has begun. Avoid thermal runaway. Terminate EQ charge.
In general it will require 5 amps per 100Ah of capacity to bring the battery to 16v. If it requires more than this, the battery likely required more time at 14.8v and was not otherwise 'fully' charged.
'Fully' is in quotes, as fully charged is really only accomplished after the EQ session, or when the battery is reading 1.277 SG on all cells with a normal 14.8v absorption voltage applied for X amount of time.
If specific gravity still varies by more than 0.015 between the cells, or if it is no where near 1.275 when EQ charge was terminated, the EQ charge can be restarted, but ONLY after battery has cooled back to room temperature, and only if it has not been reattached to DC loads and has not discharged at all while it cooled.
The battery might respond nicely, or it might not. If SG does not respond, or increase to hoped for levels before the human monitoring the procedure terminated it, it is not a good sign, but it might still be able to be improved upon with another EQ session initiated once battery has cooled back to 80F or so. It is possible that a deep cycle to 50% or less, followed by a full charge via the normal charging sources, then an EQ charge will then allow the Specific gravity to rise closer to that 1.277 level, or whatever maximum the user has previously noted.
The time required for SG to reach 1.277, or the previously recorded maximums, could be as little as 15 minutes, and as long as ??. I've never required more than 4 hours, and 45 minutes became the average time required to max out SG on my most recent petulant group31 flooded battery, but it required the EQ charge every 14 deep cycles, otherwise the time increased. Each battery will be different.
Options. The Ammeter.
https://www.amazon.com/Sangdo-G-T-P...209&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GTpower+wattmeter
or
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digit...qid=1481514560&sr=1-2&keywords=bayite+ammeter
Shop around, many clones of the original 'Watt's up' meter exist for as low as sub10$ These are useful for voltage and amperage and total AH and Wh returned into battery when wired between battery and power supply.
The power supply should not be left connected to DC when not in use. It would likely present a small parasitic load. Do not hardwire it without a method for breaking the DC circuit for when not in use. I use Anderson powerpoles in the 45 amp rating, and just pull them apart, then unplug the AC cord.
The power supply CAN be used as a regular charger, but depleted batteries Will max it out and possibly overheat it, and batteries need to spend 4 hours at 14.8v or less before, being allowed to seek 16+v for the EQ charge the potentiometer included is not made for repeated adjustments.
I use my MeanWell RSP-500-15 as a Manual Bulk charger, absorption charger, top charger, float charger/power supply, and as an EQ charger.
But mine is modified with a better voltage adjustment potentiometer rated for thousands of cycles, not just 50. I have also increased airflow and heatsinking as when maxed out at 40 amps, it will get HOT, and cool electronics are happy electronics.
When one is comfortable performing a proper EQ charge, they are also comfortable busting out the hydrometer to see if their other regular charging sources are indeed fully charging the batteries when they drop to float voltage. These hydrometer dippings almost always reveal that the other charging sources are bald faced liars, and that more time was required at absorption voltage. The user then hopefully can accommodate this longer absorption voltage, and then not only will the batteries last longer, but the frequency that EQ charges need to be performed from then on, will be further apart, and require less time.
I have a thread on my Meanwell RSP-500-15 power supply here for those interested:
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy
--------
For users of AGM batteries who have read this far, Sign this waiver relieving me of all responsibility, then continue reading.
AGM's can be EQ'd too, though only Lifeline recommends it, and they call it a 'reconditioning' cycle. The process is similar to that described above, but Lifeline say 15.5v max, for 8 hours at 77F initial battery temperature.
See page 20, section 5.5,
http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/manual.pdf
Those with Lesser AGMS and who have acquired the product which its the topic of this thread, need to limit the voltage to 15.5v, and monitor the battery very closely for excessive heating. The AGM will likely vent a bit, which is not ideal, but if it does restore some capacity, and it likely will, there is little harm. AGM venting is not an instant death, unless it is allowed to go into thermal runaway.
Be extra sure to not initiate 15.5v until the AGM battery has been held at ~14.7v for an adequate period of time, and amperage required to hold 100AH of AGM capacity tapered to 0.5amp or less
'Reconditioning' an AGM is balancing that more expensive spinning plate on a duller slippier stick, compared to EQ'ing a flooded battery.
