Relocating the kitchen

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iplayguitarintheshower

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Hey all,

Has anyone here ever relocated their kitchenette from one side to another? I'm looking at buying a new Class B Camper Van and want to move the kitchenette from behind the driver, to behind the doorjam on the passenger entry side.

Curious what I need to be considering in terms of difficulty and rerouting of pipes,etc.
 
the hardest part will be the sink drain. the propane and the fresh water will be easy. highdesertranger
 
What needs to be done, aside from ripping up the flooring, to get the drain re routed?

Also Id assume gas lines would be the hardest to reroute, along with electrical for these heavy appliances (like fridge and venting)

If i wanted to move the kitchenette with the sink in it, how do i turn off the RV water so I dont get any water bursts while wrenching on it? In a house you turn off the main. does an RV have a 'main'?
 
You'll find many detailed kitchen and bathroom builds on the Sprinter forums, not many people here do full plumbing builds. Drains require larger pipes, venting, and aren't as easy to hide when crossing... supply lines are easy to bury in floor insulation and sheeting. You also need p-traps... There's a nice inline RV solution, but I'm on my phone atm...
 
iplayguitarintheshower said:
What needs to be done, aside from ripping up the flooring, to get the drain re routed?

Also Id assume gas lines would be the hardest to reroute, along with electrical for these heavy appliances (like fridge and venting)

If i wanted to move the kitchenette with the sink in it, how do i turn off the RV water so I dont get any water bursts while wrenching on it? In a house you turn off the main. does an RV have a 'main'?

If you are buying new, I would get the MFG. to put the kitchen on the passenger side and save yourself a lot of headaches.  You will be dropping tanks, not ripping up the floor AFAIK.  Getting past the driveshaft, exhaust system and frame may be challenging if the grey tank is on the drivers side.  You may be able to tie into the grey system from where the bathroom is if there is a sink or shower on that side.  If you tie into the black tank because the bathroom does not have a sink or shower (only a commode), your black tank will fill rapidly and it is the smallest tank.  It could also be a health hazard.  Don't forget to plug all empty holes and put in a new P trap for your new sink location if there is not a P trap in the kitchen cabinet.  Other things to consider, hot W/H and your furnace location?

Gas lines can be done with flexible lines as it would be on the low pressure side.  I would use the type lines that are already there.  Electrical lines (both 12 vdc and 110 vac) are easier to run than gas lines and drains.  You will have to cut a new hole in the wall for fridge vent.

There are two places to shut off the water on a rv.  Turn off the water supply line from the hose bib you are connected to (city water) and/or turn off the 12vdc battery at the "battery switch".  Both have to be off.  12vdc runs the onboard water pump.  You may have to disconnect (unplug) from shore power too.  Open spigots and let the built up pressure release.  I generally open all spigots, opening the lowest one last.  I will be changing the kitchen faucet today.....

This sounds like a LOT of work for not much gain.  My $0.02 worth.
 
Shut off water..
If you're in a campground with hookups there's a shutoff where your hose connects.
In the RV on battery there should be a switch for the water pump somewhere...
Do you have a control panel with tank meters and other switches?

PS:
If you really do play guitar in the shower ,,, is it just for the echo or with the water on ?
Must be a chore keeping the neck straight and the strings from rusting .......poly webs?
 
An artist will move the world for good acoustics.   :cool:
 
actually the gas lines are easy. soft copper and flair fittings. soft copper can bend fairly easy. the feed water lines are even easier more than likely PEX tubing. however the sink drain is the bugger, remember drain lines must flow down hill to the tank. so depending on where your tank is located and what it's made out of. the drain hose should go in the top of he tank and not the side. so where's your grey tank, can you get a down hill run to the top of the grey tank? highdesertranger
 
Thats an excellent point. However, given that there are sinks and bathrooms in many class B's that sit on opposite sides, i'd likely need to figure out how those types of models handle this issue. They both cant drop straight down into a grey water tank unless the tank is low enough or that wide.
 
Since class Bs are so low to the ground I'm going with your last guess ,,,, thin and wide.
The only class B I've lived in had opposite side sink and shower/toilet.
 
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