Potential issues while RVing

[BobandBarb]

My wife and I are planning on buying a 94 pace arrow tri axle. I think it is a 34' If we do make a deal, what are some things I should check specifically? I have seen the unit, and I know it has a blown leveler seal. Are there other things I need to pay attention to? Maybe a buyers guide? I read the article about appliance maintenance, and I read the article about breaks sticking if they sit too long.
It has a 454 with 60k ish miles. My research shows that if they are taken care of, that's like, broke in good. Is that accurate? I would expect that engine would work it's ass off to haul that beast around, there by shortening the life span of the engine. What say you guys?
What about water lines or sewage lines? Any way to test that stuff before I stick 50 gallons in it?
If I call my local rv dealer, is there typically a shake down service?
Do you guys do a pretrip inspection?
Sorry for so many questions, super excited about maybe doing this rv living thing, equally anxious about being stuck because I didn't know to check something.

 

[bullfrog]

Escapees has RV boot camps that probably aren’t happening yet because of the pandemic but their bimonthly magazine has several columnists that will be able to give resources as in checklists and books covering everything you need to know. I highly recommend joining If not for just this type of information. They did have a special of less than $40 for the first year membership. Normal yearly dues are not much more. In your case I would recommend renting the unit from the owners for a couple weeks to test everything out. Sort of a real world test. Say I’ll give you 2 month’s payment to use it for two weeks so I can insure I will like it.

 

[tx2sturgis]

It's probably a 3 speed transmission, could be a 4 speed....but yes they tended to be geared a bit shorter for all the weight they drag around...and the handling on those chassis is a bit...yacht-like. A big land-boat. 

Make sure you are paying bottom dollar...I mean....a few thousand probably. Even tho the RV market is tight right now, a 26 year old motorhome is gonna need a lot of repairs and upkeep. Be sure to inspect everything, all the components and systems, top to bottom, and take it for at least a half hour drive to make sure the drivetrain is OK. Listen for exhaust leaks, check underneath for fluid leaks, make sure the transmission is not slipping, etc.

Just keep in mind that if your budget can handle a newer unit, and you can tolerate a smaller unit as far as space, you will probably be much happier.

 

[Sofisintown]

My wife and I are planning on buying a 94 pace arrow tri axle. I think it is a 34' If we do make a deal, what are some things I should check specifically?

Bob, you used to be long haul truckers, and you made do with much smaller space.

I would suggest you considered a smaller RV. Maybe a travel trailer, that you haul with a pick up truck or SUV.
The bigger the RV, the more problems you will have to face.
Plus, a trailer you can unhook it and set up camp, and go to the store in your truck or go explore the area.
Welcome to the forum.

 

[EnduroRdr]

It's probably a 3 speed transmission, could be a 4 speed....but yes they tended to be geared a bit shorter for all the weight they drag around...and the handling on those chassis is a bit...yacht-like. A big land-boat. 

Make sure you are paying bottom dollar...I mean....a few thousand probably. Even tho the RV market is tight right now, a 26 year old motorhome is gonna need a lot of repairs and upkeep. Be sure to inspect everything, all the components and systems, top to bottom, and take it for at least a half hour drive to make sure the drivetrain is OK. Listen for exhaust leaks, check underneath for fluid leaks, make sure the transmission is not slipping, etc.

Just keep in mind that if your budget can handle a newer unit, and you can tolerate a smaller unit as far as space, you will probably be much happier.

Agreed: tex2 has some good points.
Take his advice! Test everything.
Also if it smells musty, look for signs of leaks. Older RVs used lots of wood truss and wall support. And if it leaked for long there could be rot. Look for soft spots in floors, walls, ceiling or water stains.
Yes the rv market hot, but the bigger ones (and especially older ones) not near as hot as the smaller new ones. Class B has outright exploded.
Class C is up too especially the smaller ones.
Class A not so much.

I’d try to get in as low as possible, class A are a little harder to sell - and if the market turns back next year it will be even harder especially in flooded market!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nature lover]

I just posted on your other thread but Barb and Bob do not be discouraged you can do it if you plan it well and have a reserve fund. You are getting good advice here.

 

[mpruet]

There are two things to be thinking about when getting an RV.  1) The Chassis (engine/tired/etc) and 2) the interior.  The chassis may be just fine, but a lot of the interior ‘creature comfort’ items may be on their last legs.  If the interior appliances end up having to be replaced, then that can become a money pit.  While many items can be easily replaced, many can not.  For instance a fridge/freezer can run into problems, especially if it is a fridge/freezer which works off of AC electricity or propane.  They have to have vents behind those fridges and if they have been exposed to the sun, then the jell in the refrigeration unit can congeal.  If that occurs, then the refrigeration unit might have to be replaced, or worse still, the entire fridge/freezer has to be replaced.  This can be a huge cost because it can be hard to find something which will fit and/or even get into your rig.  (Speaking from experience here...) Sometimes they end up having to remove interior walls and/or windows just to get the installation done.  Also if the rig has a washer/dryer unit, then you may be facing a large expense to have it replaced.  

I would find out if the rig has the original fridge or washer/dryer.  If it has the original, then you need to plan on having to do some replacements, especially if the fridge vents have been exposed to direct sunlight.

Also - these older rigs tend to not have much in house batteries or solar.  They were built for folks who tended to stay in RV resorts with full hookups.  If you are planning on boondocking a lot, then you will need to consider the cost of replacing your batteries and upgrading to a solar charging system.  This may require replacing your existing charge controllers.  

One thing to also look at is the gasket on any slides that it has.  Chances are they have some large gaps and that will not only let colder air in, but also provide an opening for Mickey Mouse and other vermin.  I had two slides on my first rig (class-A 37 ft.) and realized quickly that while the slide provided more living space, it was also one more thing which could break.  I currently have a class-B with no slides. 


As for the water tanks - there is nothing preventing you from filling all three of them up and looking for leaks, both inside and under the rig.  Also be sure to check the drainage valves for leakage.


My opinion is the simpler the rig the less long term expense you have. I started out with a 37 foot class-A diesel pusher. It was a money pit. Anything which could break - did... not so much the chassis, but the stuff inside the rig. I got rid of that and now have a rig built on a Promaster 3500 chassis. I have no slides. I do have a 12-volt compressor fridge/freezer, microwave/convection over, sink, TV, stove, and interior wet bath. I’ve taken that rig up to Alaska and the Arctic twice, and throughly enjoy it. But I did have to get used to the idea of living out of my rig and not just living in a rig.

 

[ckelly78z]

Check the date code on all of the tires, anything over 7 years old should be replaced due to age. This is the single most important, and potentially dangerous item that should be addressed before hitting the road.

https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/tir...numbers of the,year the tire was manufactured.

 

[lizhazelmyer]

We have had a couple of older rigs with gasoline engines. Low mileage on an older RV is as bad as high mileage as far as the engine is concerned. We've had two older rigs with gas engines that died on us. They ran fine for a couple of years and then died. One was a 1970's Superior class A with a Dodge 440 and a 1993 GMC Vandura (conversion van) with a 350 engine. All I can tell you is be prepared to do an engine change in a couple of years. We learned our lesson and went with a diesel pusher this time. Diesels last much longer, and get better mileage. The generator is much quieter than a gasoline generator. In short, if you are looking to buy an older rig, go diesel if you can. They cost more, but will save you long term.

The other thing is the refrigerator. Most RV fires are caused by the refrigerator. I would make sure to have it serviced, at a minimum. Make sure it works. Make sure everything works. When we got our Superior Motorhome and put water in it, it leaked everywhere because it wasn't winterized by the previous owners and the water lines froze and had splits. We had to go through it and replace the bad sections with hose and clamps. It didn't cost a lot and wasn't complicated but a big pain in the butt.

In short, owning an RV means you are going to have to do repairs, even if you buy a new one. New ones are routinely sold with factory defects. Make sure you bring a toolkit with you and things like fuses, electrical tape, light bulbs, etc. If you aren't handy, you will have to learn and there are a plethora of tutorials on YouTube to deal with any issue on an RV.

Good luck!

 

[crofter]

The 5th wheels are becoming more popular in AZ, still the big living space with all the bells and whistles, but more maneuverable. Also if you park in a crowded camping spot, your living room is in the back where it is quiet and faces out towards the bush. You will need to get a horse to pull it with, but you can upgrade the horse while keeping the same 5th wheel. You can get a nice used 5th wheel in AZ for $12k or less, plus the cost of the horse.
~crofter

 

[becida]

iRV2.com has a forum and they will have a specific group on the manufacture of the RV you're looking at, that would be a great place to ask question like this.

 

[Tony's Dream]

When we looked at buying an RV I found that their value seems to drop quicker then a used car. Most people pay huge dollars on a new rig and usually trade them in because they got tired of fixing things. They will tell you they simply wanted to upgrade, but who spends $150K on a rig and 10 years later wants to shell out another $150k just to upgrade? We looked at a 1994 RV (can't remember the model) but the seller wanted $40K for it. It had 78,000 miles. Looking at the inside, it looked good. As I began looking inside the cabinets, under the sink, in the storage areas......we found water damage in most of the areas. The damage was caused by leaks around the fan, AC condensation, and leaking plumbing. The couple spent the money to make it look good but it really needed an overhaul. I went to a local RV dealership and asked if he knew anything about the rig and I found out they had it worked on several times for major issues. So you really have to be careful.

 

[becida]

We looked at a 1994 RV (can't remember the model) but the seller wanted $40K for it.  It had 78,000 miles.  

Asking big bucks for an old RV is a  fun thing to do but that doesn't mean you can't make them a lower offer.  

I'd look and see what else I could get for the $40k, that's a lot of money in most of the used RV market.

 

[nature lover]

Becida is right. 40 K can buy you a pretty nice rig keep looking and compare them. Then you can come back to that one if you can’t find another. 40 K is a lot of mullah. I don’t think he’s gonna sell that one too quickly at that price.

 

[lizhazelmyer]

When we looked at buying an RV I found that their value seems to drop quicker then a used car.  Most people pay huge dollars on a new rig and usually trade them in because they got tired of fixing things. They will tell you they simply wanted to upgrade, but who spends $150K on a rig and 10 years later wants to shell out another $150k just to upgrade?  We looked at a 1994 RV (can't remember the model) but the seller wanted $40K for it.  It had 78,000 miles.  Looking at the inside, it looked good.  As I began looking inside the cabinets, under the sink, in the storage areas......we found water damage in most of the areas.  The damage was caused by leaks around the fan, AC condensation, and leaking plumbing.  The couple spent the money to make it look good but it really needed an overhaul.  I went to a local RV dealership and asked if he knew anything about the rig and I found out they had it worked on several times for major issues.  So you really have to be careful.

40K for THAT?  I think they were trying to get their money back!  Depending on what it was, it should be 10K or less.

 

[crofter]

...I'd look and see what else I could get for the $40k, that's a lot of money in most of the used RV market....

Also consider if you want to stay in RV parks, some have a newness requirement and don't allow vans or cargo trailers as the primary unit. Here they do let you park vans and cargo trailers in the driveway after you convince the management. Usually you have to say your van is your only transportation and your cargo trailer contains all your tools.    -crofter

 

[Doubleone]

^+1 to buy for low dollar...    It happens that most RV's sit idle for 10+ months of the year, and that's very hard on mechanical objects.  Radiators clog up, antifreeze goes bad, batteries age out, brakes get sticky, fluid seals go oval and leak, tires and rubber rots, rodents chew on stuff, water leaks from roof, etc.  I have a 1997 Ford Class C, and I do all my own work.  When I first got it I went through and freshened everything, and I mean everything.  Even after restoring it to 100%, it seems like there's always something that demands attention.  Recently it was a furnace motor seized up in the middle of the night.  Then the water heater stopped working, etc.  Fortunately, the service manuals are readily available online and parts are cheap for 90's model appliances and chassis.  However, I would recommend to learn how to repair your own or have some knowledgeable friends...