My slow but hopefully successful NV conversion

[Free Range Chicken]

Good night everyone! I am so excited to finally share this conversion with y'all!!!!I'm  so in the early steps of my conversion.
Thanks for reading me, it is going to be a long post ..I'll try my best to organize my thoughts, as of now, I've done some progress but overall
Me:
As I said in my intro, I'm an IT consultant with no handy man skills whatsoever, but I know how to search on Google and I like to experiment new things. All stuff done
here is / was new to me and had to learn it the hard way ! But so far it's been fun! . For work, I travel across the country every few months or so (I'm a
contractor) and hate to live in dusty motels that are way too expensive and have bedbugs. I'd like some level of comfort so it'll be additional challenge for both my
skills and my wallet in this conversion.
 
Pre-Game:
Been reading this forum for 2 - 3 years, countless and countless hours daydreaming, got google sketchup ( I love it ) to design  / planify space but haven't gotten far on the design yet. Learned some about electric, humidity, insulation, heating , A/C, inverter / chargers and  even already saw a nice lovely w.c. that I hope to find the link to it and share it here. Love this forum it's so valuable. Also got the sprinter sourcebook ebook (I paid for it but it was worth it).Read Technomadia's, and cruisers forums for electric.  Saved lots of money and decided time for the game to start, baby:

Game Starts!!!!!

The van:

Stealth, 2012 Nissan NV Cargo 2500 high roof with 81k miles, got it from no haggle dealer that told me it was perfectly fine. they lied to me.
Had to spend lots of time (about 4  months on weekends) dealing with issues before starting actual conversion:
- rust issues on roof: multiple spots with rusts (rust spots about a quarter of an inch in diameter. Looks like former owner drilled into ribs too much  and dented the roof from beneath). had to sand, prime, paint and clear coat on roof and some spots near front tires.
-  van was delivered with crash / wreckage. that was probably my bad since I am a very distracted buyer or maybe I was too exited and oversaw that rear bumper crash. body repair charged 1200 for rear bumper replacement, and part of rear body repair.
- after dealing with this, still had fears about rust in the floor, so I took off the cargo mat  ( got the nv repair manuals googling somewhere for free. veeeery helpful when assembling / disassembling your own vehicle I loved it !!!!! ), which had under pad made of wool or something like that. Surprise !!!!!!!!Lots of rust. But when rained, no leaks inside. that made me suspect that mat was retaining moisture. Had to sand/ prime, paint and clear coat half of cargo floor. ( I later learned too late that I should have instead sanded with high grit number since it was only superficial rust, avoiding the pain of painting but most pain of all, putting masking and covering other areas)
- brake repair: darn dealer again, said breaks were good. Had to replace pads, rotors and calipers at Mr Tire for 1800. OUch.that one hurted ... a lot!!!

Mechanically the van has behaved nicely, a bit underpowered but I like to think that v6 will save me gas, I am 6'1'' and I believe the height is about 6'3''.
 I went with Nissan instead of the sprinter for reliability , cheap repairs in case of break , and cheaper parts. MPG not as good as sprinter but diesel is much
more costly.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Wants / Nice to haves / my desires:

- electric: already went with LIFEPO technology and got a big battery 200AH.

 I think i got too excited about this technology and overreacted making this early buy. The battery is sitting there and havent used it since july (except for testing my fantastic fan). At this moment i just make sure now an then that the cells are not over discharged ( they have been at 3.3 v pretty much all the time), and sooner or later i'll start getting my hands dirty with cables, fuses, planning to buy an RV inverter charger ( i like victron multiplus 3000 w rms), wire the bms (battery management system), etc. I dream off having A/C and or electric heater, and why not, even convective stove running out of my batteries. If my experiment succeed, i may increase my capacity to 400ah or even 600ah of LIFEPO in the long run. Remember, LIFEPO technology gets you 80-85% of juice out of the batteries ( unlike regular deep cycle ones that can b discharged up to a 50%) so hopefully i'll be able to achieve my goal. Also plan in the long term for solar and perhaps alternator connection.  Great stuff about electric here but if you want to learn LIFEPO you need to see the cruisers forum.
If things fail with my intention of being propane free, i'll get the wave catalytic heater and a propane stove.

- i'll put lots of insulation. already put some fat mat's rattle trap as initial sound deadener layer, then will put polyiso and then i'll add a cover layer. I'm not exactly sure what but it'd be nice if it was: made of ( perhaps?) plastic /syntetic white / moisture resistant / breathable ( with lots of small holes) and easily cleanable and easily removable. ANy ideas on what  to get as a cover layer?
The purpose of that last breathable layer would be to prevent moisture to getting traped trapped. THere are a huge huge amount of little holes and crannies in the NV, that complicates a bit the situation. The ribs have their inside quite inaccessible so that i just want to put a breathable kind of layer on top of the insulation / polyiso.
One possibility i considered was to utilize a plastic wrap /tyvek vapor barrier after the insulation. But i assume that any plastic barrier will have to have some perforations (like screws that hold the furntire ), and unless you sealed completely the plastic vapor barrier, there would be a way for humidity to get inside but it'd be way harder for the humidity to get out of there since fresh air wouldn't be able to reach all the spots in the van.
Another idea on my insulation / design is to avoid walls made of plywood. plywood as walls/ceiling is in my opinion a waste since we already have structural support from the ribs of the van. IT may probably complicate things for me in that if i made a mistake(which i'll probably do), i'd have to take that plywood away and back in place. Additionally, in my opinion plywood may not be most breathable layer and i want fresh air to penetrate as much as possible into all those holes and crannies in my van. call me humidity paranoic.

- I'll give a try to a "mother's attic" , the stock overhead storage compartment that nissan ships is kind of small and useless, i already removed it and am planning to build a full overhead platform to provide a good storage area  



- i already got the fantastic fan 7350 ( the most complete one) with a vent cover. I already got all the stuff /supplements to install it but i need a better weather (perhaps by the end of march) to install it. THe installation will be made on the top of the backdoor. (left one,  on the other side of the exhaust to prevent Carbon Monoxide risks / issues).

- I have no clue yet about the carperntry stuff but i'll figure it out down the road. I moved from a cheap hotel and leased a house with a good basement size so i can improv a small shop and build some cabinets.

- An idea that is yet to be tested is to utilize my memory foam mattress ( it's full size, 5inches width). I'll try to build a foldable platform made of 3 parts and hinges. Then on the night fold the bed away. ( SInce it's memory foam, i think i can fold it and open it every night. It'll came back to form in a few minutes. I'll do this experiment in the next weeks to come.

- for potty i like the dry flush, it's costly but looks like a perfect solution for me... i may end up buying it  http://www.dry-flush.com/
-rest of the design is still somewhat up in the air, things will be coming in place as i make progress. but i've been taking 2 or 3 classes of carpentry to start getting some ideas. I loved it so far, i've done that in "makerspaces", which are equiped shops that can be leased for  some $$ (say 50 per month) and i get access to their complete wood shop. I haven't decided yet if I should just buy a table saw or a circular saw and a sander,  or lease the shop to have more tools available, with the inconvenience of having to drive some mails every time to make some progress.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Got Toys also:
So far i've gotten these toys ( price at the end)
200AH Lifope + BMS + LCD + Sense Boards 2100
ladder 70
fantastic vent 7350  plus vent cover 308

Automotive paint and supplies 250
South wire 1000 amp clamp meter 128.98

CO detector 52
dicor 551lsw + butyl tape 1/8”x3/4” x 30' 30
fatmat rattle trap 100 sq ft 430
drill(ryobi), jigsaw(ryobi), blades, drill bits, screws for fan, work gloves,  255.74
Thanks BOB for suggesting these ones, they work great !!! I love them ! ! !

columbus idea foundry carpentry classes (2) 110
paint for protecting after metal hole 10



My next post will be to update you on my progress with the sound deadener (rattle trap) installation. I am half way done on it. expect pics to come ! ! ! !

 

[MikeRuth]

You may want to rethink the dry flush. Just consider for a moment, that if you are able to indeed use all 17 flushes, that bag is going to be very heavy. If it's to heavy or uncomfortable at that weight then you are going to have to change it sooner. At $54.99 if you can use all of them that's about a $1.00 a flush. If not that price goes up.

You said you have been working on this for a couple years now so I'm sure you are familiar with most other options. Certainly they offer much reduced cost and really are not much more troublesome. Not to mention less up front cost.

Just My humble thoughts.

 

[Almost There]

You may want to rethink the dry flush. Just consider for a moment, that if you are able to indeed use all 17 flushes, that bag is going to be very heavy. If it's to heavy or uncomfortable at that weight then you are going to have to change it sooner. At $54.99 if you can use all of them that's about a $1.00 a flush. If not that price goes up.

You said you have been working on this for a couple years now so I'm sure you are familiar with most other options. Certainly they offer much reduced cost and really are not much more troublesome. Not to mention less up front cost.

Just My humble thoughts.

I was just going to ask about the pricing on the proprietary cartridges but  MR already found them.

Personally, I'm going with one of these http://www.c-head.com/

Aside from the price being about half of the other available separating toilet on the market, it doesn't require ANY proprietary parts.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

You may want to rethink the dry flush. Just consider for a moment, that if you are able to indeed use all 17 flushes, that bag is going to be very heavy. If it's to heavy or uncomfortable at that weight then you are going to have to change it sooner. At $54.99 if you can use all of them that's about a $1.00 a flush. If not that price goes up.

You said you have been working on this for a couple years now so I'm sure you are familiar with most other options. Certainly they offer much reduced cost and really are not much more troublesome. Not to mention less up front cost.

Just My humble thoughts.

Thanks Mike ! I will definitely think about it ! 

 

[Free Range Chicken]

I was just going to ask about the pricing on the proprietary cartridges but  MR already found them.

Personally, I'm going with one of these http://www.c-head.com/

Aside from the price being about half of the other available separating toilet on the market, it doesn't require ANY proprietary parts.

Thanks for the suggestion !!!!

I'll re think about my potty decision.

I hope the c-head works for you, please let me know how it goes once u get it !!!!

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Installing the sound deadener  / vapor barrier
The fat mat rattle trap is recommended by the sprinter sourcebook as a great sound deadener and vapor barrier.
So i went ahead and got my first 100 sq feet , which so far have been enough for covering the floor and most of the ceiling.
It was a must for me to install it in the floor because i needed an effective barrier against rust, and liquid spills,  i know that once i start living in there it's
probable that i will spill water or any liquid and i need to be worry free about rust issues with my floor.
It is extremely slow to install anywhere where there are ribs. ( both my floor and ceiling have ribs).Have been doing this task for about 50 hours so far.
The adhesive that it has is extremely strong, it seems to work even in cold climate, i  did put it even at 20F, but once it gets colder it stops working.
I've driven the van afterwards and the noise reduction while driving is very considerable, the ride is way smoother and it basically kills any high tone sound.
I already got my second 100 ft package and i may even buy one more at the end so i end up putting around 300 sq ft.
It is a heavy package ( 40 pounds per 100 sq ft )

 

[Free Range Chicken]

One more point about the sound deadener:

Regarding my ceiling / walls,  I decided NOT to seal the junctions or any small cranny / crevice or holes.  I want the junction holes , crannies and crevices to breathe as much air as possible so that humidity doesn't get trapped. I believe it's easy to get humidity inside any cranny but it's hard for it to get out.


While i was doing the NV's floor, i found several orifices in the floor, that have a rubber lid, and about 1 - 2 inches of diameter. That should be helpful for me in the future if I want to install any electric hookups / etc.




Also, on the rear left panel at the very bottom, there is an air pressure vent that is as big as 10 x 10 inches. i believe i should not block the air access to this pressure vent, but i think i could easily take advantage of it to install there any electric hookup and perhaps even water hookups.



As a downside, this  pressure vent let a lot of dirt in, so i took about 2 pounds of dirt off from the bottom of that panel.

Will keep posted on my progress!!!

 

[flying kurbmaster]

where did you get that sound barrier and how much did it cost, is that the trade name "fat mat rattle trap" thanks FK

 

[Free Range Chicken]

where did you get that sound barrier and how much did it cost, is that the trade name "fat mat rattle trap" thanks FK

Amazon. Fat mat rattle trap 80 mil. thick, 100sq ft  for $200 with free shipping. Paid $15 extra for Ohio taxes.

 

[scooterdog]

Fat Mat is a great product.  There is a cheaper alternative.  The sound damping aspect may not be as good, but it does the job.  It is Peel & Seal, found at Lowe's and Home Depot in the gutter supply aisle.  Cost is about $16 a roll.

View attachment 2643

I applied to my ARE DCU Wedge and I am very happy with the results.

View attachment 2644

 

[KayakGirl]

You are doing a great job with your conversion!

 

[Free Range Chicken]

You are doing a great job with your conversion!

Thanks !!! This weekend was too cold and didn't make much progress. But will keep you posted!!

 

[Free Range Chicken]

It's been a while and theres been some progress. I'll share it later this month. For now I want to share my excitement: it's Friday 5pm and after my 40 hour work week I couldn't be more excited to put some good 10 to 15 hours on my build this weekend. I love to see progress and the more progress I make the more motivated I feel. Thanks everyone in this forum for inspiring me and motivating me !

 

[4GNomad]

Looks good so far Free Range Chicken. Looking forward to seeing what you get done this weekend.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Finished putting the sound deadener.

The fat mat people don't recommend installing it when moisture is high.
I can tell that they were right, i installed it in a couple of moist spots ( in the ceiling )  and after a few months it fell down. But, on the parts of the roof where there was not moisture, it still holds strong after 4+ months of being there.
overall,  fat mat, it is a good product and i recommend it so far.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

My Bed Idea.

My idea is to have a full size bed, since i plan to have ocasional company. I also want it to take little space on my van, so i have the idea of making it fold away during the day. It takes some space folded, but it does not take as much as is if i had even a twin size bed. please see my sketchup design to see how bed will fold / unfold , and will lay on top of floor cabinets.
Please consider my sketchup a very very uncomplete and also inexact design of what i want.

The bed was my first woodworking project ever, so  please consider i a total newbie,  i had to mess up things. E.G. - i found impossible to make a straight cut with my jig saw, even with a fence that i made for it. Perhaps today i may be better at it, but by that time i had to buy a circular saw to make straight cuts. ALso, got a table saw from menards (rockler saw, the cheapest one for around 120), and it did the job for this project. But for more skilled projects, i felt its quality was too poor so i had to take it back to the store and buy a better one, but that's another story.)
Since  the center of  the bed would be laying without support ( center of the bed), i decided to put furring strips to support the half inch plywood on top. I made the bed out of 4 parts of plywood, joined them with some hinges and finally put on top 6" of memory foam.
I designed the bed 3 months ago and have been sleeping on it in my house for about two months, and i have been sleeping really great!!!
Some days i remember i should practice the fold and unfold so i do fold it in the morning and stays all day folded. Once I unfold it at night, it restores to its original shape in a matter of seconds not minutes. And the whole folding  / unfolding thing takes me only a few seconds to do.
To make more reallistic my test, the whole bed lies over 2 furring strips that go all along the bed. I've even slept with partners and the bed is very very solid.
A couple of downsides are that the bed is a bit heavy, and i regret i didnt make it with a better quality of plywood. But for now, it's what i got and it works !!!

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Got the chance to weight the van before the conversion. Columbus downtown has a scale next to a museum and it's free

And also got some great dome leds, replacement for my factory dome lights.
They were  pricey ( vleds.com) but they were very bright 170 lumen and used less than half power: 4w only per led.
I tested the cree led ( on the right) but it was less bright and it got extremely hot. SO I returned it.

 

[Free Range Chicken]

floor &  floor insulation.
the floor insulation was made of the following:
1 it starts with the fat mat rattle trap all over the floor,  for moisture / rust  / water / sound barrier.
2 Then I put half and quarter inch insulation strips in between the floor ribs. The half inch strips are polyiso. The quarter inch are pink foam.  I started pasting the strips against the fat mat rattle trap with loctite premium construction adhesive, which is rated for interior and exterior. I am happy so far with it's results, but , gravity is helping a lot here since the strips are pasted against the floor.  I also got some ADO contractor grade aluminium foil tape from menards, but after a day of using it i was hesitant of it's performance, and decided to go to home depot and bought an extreme weather nashua foil tape. I am in OHio right now, so , maybe it's what i need, or maybe it's overkill but i'd rather overkill. THe insulation strips between the ribs in any case surpass the rib's height.

3 The third layer is a 1 inch combination of half inch insulation in the bottom and half inch ACX plywood on the top. I don't know if the foam board in the bottom will be crushed by me walking or by the stuff i put on top, so i decided to add wood stripes to support the weight of the plywood and stuff on top. It may be overkill, but i don't want to crush my half inch of polyiso in the bottom and reduce its insulation value. It was a long and legthy process but i hope it'll pay off in the long run.

Got new table saw, the strips were made of hardwood maple, and covered with spar varathane. The plywood was cut with my jigsaw following the template of he original floor mat.
As of now, the plywood / polyiso is just laying on the floor, i definitely won't screw it to the floor.
The most troublesome part so far is the bowed plywood, it's been kind of stubborn, even if i lay it in the floor it will bow a little. Since i was a complete newbie, i got my 4x8 ply sheets and layed them vertically. that was a tremendous mistake and made the plywood bow.  I learnt that i can straighten the plywood by soaking the concave side with a sponge and some hot water, then lay that concave side downwards. I added a couple of cinder blocks on top of it and overall it worked most of the times. At this point the floor is done, but perhaps i should have gotten marine plywood (so it doesn't bow that easily), or perhaps i should have coated it with poly so it won't bow again.
The only part missing is the vynil that eventually i'll buy to make it look pretty. I like vynil cause it's thin and  cheap. I looked into hardwoood but the disadvantage is the thickness. I don't want to increase the height of the floor or otherwise i'll be hitting my head on the ceiling's insulation.