Keeping the cargo trailer warm safely?

[maki2]

Sorry, your post said "exhaust tube" so I thought exhaust going from inside to outside.

Yes of course I had to call it that because the that particular fitting is sold as a “Garage Exhaust Port”’. I needed to state it that way so people could find it online if they wanted to purchase one. It does not mean it cannot be used for input air. It is just a tube with a cover plate.

 

[overlandsiberia]

My setup will be:
diesel fumes vented outside/exhaust <--- portable/outdoor diesel heater sitting outside ---> outlet pipe/hot air vented to the inside of the living quarters using ducting and some sort of metal port with a lid to cover it when not in use

Now since diesel fumes go outside, if I have outside air intake right there the fumes can get recirculated, which is no good, I didn't think about this earlier. So I might have to have additional duct for air intake from inside living quarters. Or, alternatively, long metal tubing to exhaust diesel fumes far away from the outside heater (dual-layer probably)

https://d2qc09rl1gfuof.cloudfront.net/product/ZDJRQXHK8KWXKHYJ1/diesel-heater-m100-6.jpg

 

[maki2]

research a couple of options.
Cargo trailer sidewall vent. You can always create a way to plug the 3”
Diameter opening when you do not want fresh air entering. They do have a small non operable louvered cover on the interior. You want some fresh air coming inside as you need it for sleeping with or without diesel heat. Your cargo trailer might have even come with those small sidewall vents pre installed. If so keep them!

You can also get hinged sidewall vents. They have a much larger opening. But you really do not need that big of a fresh anir intake as those hinged types for a diesel heater situation.

My little vintage fiberglass travel trailer has old style sliding windows. They provide enough fresh air intake even when they are closed. They and my entry door will never be airtight. By for rainy days when it is warm and I want more fresh air I did add a fixed louvered vent at the top of the sliding window in my rear travel trailer door. I can also opened that slider window just a fraction of an inch for more fresh air intake when using my diesel heater but the seals on the latch side on my door let in plenty of fresh air. That door will never be airtight! Sounds like a drawback to have slightly drafty windows and a door but I consider that to be an advantage as long as it does not leak when it rains. Life is all about your perspective view point. In my nomadic life I do not see all air leak drafts from windows and doors as evil beings, I learned to appreciate having them. That lesson was learned from the owner of the company that imported my diesel heater. One of those ah ha moments where the reality of his words hit home, that RVs and boats and vans are rarely airtight, especially not the older ones!

 

[wanderlust]

another option is propane catalytic heater, no flame but it DOES release CO2 and water wapors inside. They work with the propane you already have, cost under $100 and compact. Full disclosure: I bought it for my old van build 10 years ago but never used in winter, just tried it out - it does work, and without a flame

https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2017-05/documents/williams-trunk-catalytic-heaters.pdf

"The functioning of a catalytic heater relies on a balanced chemical reaction. Propane and oxygen react and form primarily water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst is the key element which drives the reaction; it splits certain atoms off of molecules and recombines them into new ones."

"Since the reaction is totally flameless, there are no CO or NOXemissions associated with open flame gas systems"

https://rvshare.com/blog/catalytic-heater/

"they are known to be 99.98% efficient, where as a common RV furnace may waste up to 45% efficiency."

 

[Happy Camper]

I can't remember who used to reference it often, but for vents and other things there are a lot of quality marine parts designed for boats that would work in vehicles and trailers..

 

[maki2]

I can't remember who used to reference it often, but for vents and other things there are a lot of quality marine parts designed for boats that would work in vehicles and trailers..

Maybe me or at least I am one of them who used marine sources. I used a lot of marine fittings in my travel trailer renovation. It was a waterfront neighborhood there were 10 marine supply stores in the neighborhood, one of them even in the same building, but the closest RV store was a half hour drive through traffic. But in sod instances companies do sell the same products to both marine and RV stores.

 

[camperdan]

Don't really see stuff about setting it up outside.

I also wonder specifically if any chemically sensitive people, people with asthma, what are their experiences with diesel heaters. We react to slightest fumes differently than others. My understanding some diesel heaters produce fumes even in the air that goes indoors.

I was thinking of Vevor brand, which at least has a website and US based phone support, unlike many Amazon sold brands (not looking for expensive brands that cost thousands, these would have better quality)

It's a good consideration about outside pollutants being brought inside, because even though I camp far away from other people, there been a couple of times when someone had a campfire and the wind brought that smoke to me, don't want that inside.
One can run intake duct to the heater too, from the living quarters, but I think it's getting too involved for my purposes.
I guess I will invest in better battery pack or station and more solar as well to run electric heating pad as a backup heat when outside air can't be brought in.

After 20 years of living off the grid in a motorhome, I can tell you that a Buddy heater is simple, effective, requires no
electric, they DO NOT smell or produce fumes. Not possible. Yes, they have a proven 'low oxygen' sensor which will
shut the unit off. It is not dangerous, and neither is the open flame. You would have to run the Buddy quite a long time
for it to shut down this way. If you cracked a window or vent 1/2 inch, you are not going to notice heat loss.

Also, the little green cans of propane can be refilled at a cost of about 60 cents. Find an adapter online, or just connect
to a 5 gal tank with a hose. If you are super sensitive, you don't need to mess around with diesel. Just keep it simple.

 

[maki2]

can a person refill green cylinders? Sure they can. Does someone living in a car or minivan have space to carry along a bulk tank? Not necessarily as space can be pretty tight. Will using a Mr. Buddy Heater and carrying a propane tank ever feel safe to a person who gets anxiety attacks about gas leaks, open flames and explosions in their vehicle? Absolutely not. You can tell them it is safe but you can’t stop their feelings of intense anxiety. To them it is unsafe and having anxiety attacks is also unsafe on a number of levels especially when they lead to a panic reaction.

You will never be able to convince everyone that using a propane appliance inside a small vehicle is safe. If you asked the fire department is it safe they will say no to that question because there is some risk involved. Of course they would also consider a portable electric heater placed on a floor or countertop in a confined space to be risky.

 

[frodo2222]

I tend not to use heating much, as I've been full timing I had traveled with the weather, pretty much, but nights always can get cold in the mountains and it's nice to heat the space up in the morning, before the sun hits the roof.

I'm thinking of safe heating options for cargo trailer. Bob Wells from Cheap RV Living (I'm a fan of) recommends Buddy type propane heaters, or even more basic
propane setup with a clay pot that retains heat. For me open propane flames indoors would be emergency-only situation, the fumes are too much (plus humidity it causes),
with open propane flame also got to keep the window or vent cracked open to get enough oxygen, which leads to heat loss. No way I'd even sleep with propane burning inside.

I'm thinking of external diesel heater, which I can carry in cargo space when not in use. The portable kind that are meant to be setup in parking lots.
I want to run a duct from the heater into the trailer (or into truck camper, as I want to have both), into the vent opening I'd cut for the duct.
There's very little info out there on how to set that up. The opening for the duct (in the trailer wall) got to have a connector, and it can't be regular basic laundry type plastic connector as it won't have enough heat resistance, also any tape and duct used got to have high heat rating.

Anyone has experience with small diesel heaters, especially portable ones that run outside, any issues with smell, fumes in the indoor air, any models that had been successfully used?

I don't really see other heating options without extensive installations and I'm in no build scenario, I won't have enough solar power for electrical, plus huge battery pack or station can get pricey.

I've been off grid for the last 9 years and of all of the heating options the one that I keep using is the Chinese heaters..no smells, heat start from inside the warm covers and pretty easy to install and or replace..I mount them inside as a permanet thing and much better then having to take down and reisntall every time you move..Here is my install in my van..you're going to have to make a hole in wall or floor for the vent pipe nd fuel or for the heated hose so might as well make it in the floor and be done with it..Hope it helps...I have a Buddy heater as well forback up BUT I never use it overnight if I am not able to look at it ..whereas the diesel I do not worry about it at all all night

 

[rruff]

I tend not to use heating much, as I've been full timing I had traveled with the weather, pretty much, but nights always can get cold in the mountains and it's nice to heat the space up in the morning, before the sun hits the roof.

I'm adverse to hauling around contraptions, fuel, and items that need maintenance... that I don't really need. If you are a true vagabond and can camp wherever in the US, then don't go to the high mountains until summer! Problem solved.

The lower CO river value is plenty warm in winter, but like you (I guess?) I like the high mountains in summer... such that it's usually colder in summer than winter! Still I'm ok with high teens at night... with normal lows in the 30s. If it dips below 30 regularly, I just move. The bottom of a valley is the worst place to be because the cold air settles when it's calm. Make sure you park where the sun shines on you early! If it's calm you'll be fine outside in the sun with normal winter gear.

My emergency heat is just the stove I cook on... like Bob. I used it one morning when it was in the teens, dreary, windy AF, and only got up to the low 40s. The trick is to make sure you have a clean blue flame, which doesn't stink, and crack a window. Make sure you have enough fluffy blankets, and even insulate your rig if that isn't too hard. One person's body heat will warm a small well insulated camper space ~10F.

If you have decent solar you can also consider using a small heat pad/blanket to warm your body.

 

[Camper]

Not me, I'm going to have plenty of heat to keep my cargo trailer up to 74 degrees any day or night of the year.

 

[bullfrog !]

When I was younger ruff’s way worked just fine. Now I’m older Camper’s way is the only way!

 

[rruff]

When I was younger ruff’s way worked just fine. Now I’m older Camper’s way is the only way!

Wut?!
I ain't young! Ya'll can haul a whole houseload of stuff into the wilderness if you want so you can be comfortable. I figure I'll have plenty of time for that when I'm settled into my nice coffin...

Oh wait, I'm gonna be cremated...

 

[bullfrog !]

^^^well at least you will be warm! Lol!!!

 

[maki2]

I am too clumsy on cold mornings for using a Mr Buddy heater! Plus I do not have space for a 5 gallon size propane tank. My diesel heater is not one of the cheap Chinese versions, it is from Finland and was sold for use on boats. My fuel cost this last fall and winter in Southern AZ was 2 gallons of diesel and I still have at least a half gallon of that left. The same was true for the previous three winters. The remaining fuel will easily see me through the cold mornings and evenings when I move into the northern AZ mountains in May.

 

[LargeMarge]

... lower CO river value...

.
Are we still talking about Carbon Monoxide?
I get so confused.

 

[wayne49]

Context is important.

 

[maki2]

Which aspect of “safety” most concerns you? Risk of fire, explosion, carbon monoxide? All of the above? How much clearance will you have to combustible surfaces? Do you have breathing issues such as asthma or chemical sensitivity? What size of space are you trying to heat? Cargo trailers come in a wide size range and insulation matters as well in determining how large of a heater you need. Do you plan on leaving it running while you are sleeping. Do you have an arrangement for a fresh air intake?

These factors all matter in making the best choice for your particular circumstance.

 

[maki2]

I forgot to add to the questions about factors for choice what temperature range will you be camping in during the winter months? Will there be a lot of cloudy days? Do you have enough battery power or a generatorto run a heater that needs a fan for air distribution when there is a series of cloudy days in a row?

Safety is an important one of the many factors in making choices about how you will choose the best heater to meet your needs. There is no one best choice for everyone. But diesel is a pretty good choice for a cargo trailer if you can also meet the need for electricity to keep it going.

 

[Happy Camper]

I'm curious how it turned out for the op.