I got a Step Van today!!!

[TucsonAZ]

These things are seriously underrated! I got a 1997 Utilimaster on what I think is a P-30 chassis with the SBC 350 (I really wanted to avoid diesel), in good shape, good tires, 175k on it for $2,760, maybe I could have found a better deal, I don't know but I had to drive 130 miles just to get this one so picking were slim.

It has OD but does anybody have a clue of what the gearing is? It was a bread truck and still has all of the racks in back so woot woot for more scrap steel for future projects.

Does anybody have any tips, advice, thoughts? Do those back doors (roll up) leak?

 

[stude53]

Congratulations, Tucson and welcome to the forum.
You have scored the type of ride that I would like to have.

Bob

 

[TucsonAZ]

I wanted really specific but decided I was delusional, I would have rather not had the roll up door in the rear, AC and cruise control for example but hey, it's tough to find these.

First order of business is replacing the excuse for a seat with a proper bench seat or maybe three captains chairs with the belts in the seats

 

[Patrick46]

Woo-Hoo!!! Another 'step-head'!!

Stepvans are the greatest thing since sliced toast...and more fun than 3 Volkswagons!!

OK...first, you CAN have a crusie control added in. It'll probably cost you between $250 - $300. That'll be nice for traveling.

Oh...traveling with the door slid open is awesome!!! (why do you think the UPS guy does it so much???) Do you have doors on both sides, or just the passenger side?? (Some don't have a driver's door)

Personally...I'd X-neigh that roll up door. Are you handy at all?? Do you have any fabrication skills??
I'd rip that thing out and either find a pair of rear barn doors from another steppie at the junkyard and put those on there, or else wall the back of your rig off and put a man door in it. (those roll-up doors rattle like crazy...especially after just a few years of use) The hinges get sloppy over a short ammount of time, the wood in the doors is actually fiberboard, and they'll start to distenegrate over time too... plus, the tracks for the roll-up takes up too much interior space and headroom in the back of your van. I can't stand 'em, and have delt with, and have had to replace several as well.


Welcome to the forum, and to the wonderful world of step-van ownership!!

Tell us about yourself. Whacha like to do, what kinda work, hobbies, kids, critters, ect. Are you gonna live in this van, or work from it? Both???


Pictures....oh, we're gonna need some PICTURES!!!!

Patrick from Oregon

 

[decodancer]

There is another poster on here who put a household door and window on a step van. I've seen some that were done really nicely on the web but of course can't find them now. Here's a couple of pics I did find.

 

[highdesertranger]

congratulations. lets see some pics? why no diesel? I would replace that role up for all the reasons stated already. heads up on using household doors and windows, the square corners are weak points that cause cracks and leaks under road vibrations. if you notice all newer rv's and trailers, use windows and doors with rounded corners. this relieves the stress fractures at the 90 degree corners. highdesertranger

 

[Patrick46]

the square corners are weak points that cause cracks and leaks under road vibrations. if you notice all newer rv's and trailers, use windows and doors with rounded corners. this relieves the stress fractures at the 90 degree corners. highdesertranger

Hey...I never knew that!!! Cool!


just another amazing thing I've learned on this forum!!

Thanx HDR!!

 

[akrvbob]

Framing in a wall with doors and windows is pretty basic carpentry and will drastically improve your home.

I lived in a box van for 6 years and I agree, they make wonderful homes. The square walls and high ceilings make construction easy. The most fun will be playing with graph paper planning it out. Be creative with the space! Think outside the box. Lots of guys make a"garage" out of the last few feet for all their outside stuff. I know a guy who kept the roll-up door and made the last few feet into a porch he could sit outside on. The wall with the door was just a few feet inside the roll-up. that way he could leave the door open in the rain.
bob

 

[flying kurbmaster]

congrats on the new stepvan, check out Mills Supply for parts and stuff for Step vans they stock everything from body parts to engine stuff. good luck

 

[Baloo]

Congrats! Can't wait to see it! Why avoid diesels? Just wondering, I am the opposite, I avoid petrol. Non the less, what are your plans for it? There is a lot of room to play with. Is there a door between the cab and cargo area?

 

[Ballenxj]

You got a 97 Stepvan for $2760? I think that sounds pretty reasonable.
WELCOME to the Forum.
Oh, did I mention I'm jealous? And please do post images at your earliest convenience.

 

[TucsonAZ]

Okay, sorry for such a delayed response, I have been AT IT! I'm installing 1.5kw of solar to the roof and I've been sourcing supplies like a meth head looking for a hit, got some really amazing deals too!

Woo-Hoo!!! Another 'step-head'!!

Oh...traveling with the door slid open is awesome!!! (why do you think the UPS guy does it so much???) Do you have doors on both sides, or just the passenger side?? (Some don't have a driver's door)

Personally...I'd X-neigh that roll up door. Are you handy at all?? Do you have any fabrication skills??

Tell us about yourself. Whacha like to do, what kinda work, hobbies, kids, critters, ect. Are you gonna live in this van, or work from it? Both???

Pictures....oh, we're gonna need some PICTURES!!!!

Patrick from Oregon

Hey Patrick from Oregon thank you for the awesome response, and to you others as well. I'm actually in Tucson but planning to look for some land in SW Oregon when I finish this project and head out, hopefully sooner than later.

Firstly, I got the step because 5ths, TTs, motorhomes are build for crap, they leak, rot and come with all kinds of things I don't need or want. Also, I have MCS (multiple chemical sensitivity) and they tend to make me sick. I figured one day I would have to build something myself but this thing is all aluminum so it sure does save A LOT of work there!

I only have the single door which I think I like more honestly, it also leaves room for a tank or batteries on the pocket where the steps would otherwise be.

Yeah, the rear door, what a mess, I spent forever trying to figure out how to make it work. I ended up taking it out yesterday and spent the day riveting and mounting aluminum angle to wall the entire back off, I'm so happy about that and at peace with it, honestly, I kind of wish it had the rear swing open door but I think I'll be happier with it like that, I have a kiddo with me in my travels so it'll be a good spot for bunk beds.

In the end, it'll cost me about $225 to enclose the rear. I'm also spending the time to pull the skin off the roll up (Entenmenn's) door and rivet that to the rear along with the side brush things to keep it looking like the door is in fact there, helps a lot with the stealth and is the reason I went this route, or a part of it anyway.

About me, I'm a climber, hiker, have kids, raise chickens, make my own soap, I'm handy, abstract thinker, random as all hell, love astronomy, building things, welding.

why no diesel? heads up on using household doors and windows, the square corners are weak points that cause cracks and leaks under road vibrations. if you notice all newer rv's and trailers, use windows and doors with rounded corners. this relieves the stress fractures at the 90 degree corners.

Thanks for the info, makes total sense. As for the diesel, with the MCS I mentioned it's worse for my health, I like Diesel but the smell is not something I enjoy and it has A LOT more VOCs. Also, the SBC is soooo easy to find and replace, I just didn't want to deal with a diesel and the increased cost of maintaining it.

Congrats! Can't wait to see it! Why avoid diesels? Just wondering, I am the opposite, I avoid petrol. Non the less, what are your plans for it? There is a lot of room to play with. Is there a door between the cab and cargo area?

No doors, just one big, open space back there. I'm going to turn it into an RV, I'm just getting some basics in there now so I can use it and I will keep it a work in progress from that point forward.

Pictures, okay, let me see what I can hunt down and post up now and I will keep you all posted on the progress. If any of you need any help or info also feel free to PM me.

PS Anybody know what the roof beams are like, I need to mount solar, not sure if I need to bolt all the way through the roof or if I can rivet into a solid portion on the top of the beam. I'm fairly certain the flat part of it is the part facing down or the inside from the roof.

---

Here are some photos, in no order at all of the progress I've been making. A lot of my time has gone to little things like getting a stove and cleaning it, tune up, resealing the doghouse, adding a tach, volt meter, swapping out every light on it with LEDs, getting buck seats (still need to make a mounting), sanding, scrubbing and getting the solar stuff put together.

 

[Ballenxj]

WOW! Your access to the transmission is AMAZING!
About mounting solar on the roof, I too have wondered what the best way would be. I would be afraid to put holes in the roof, although others say it's no big deal as long as you silicone each screw well. I had been toying with the idea of having a roof rack that has short straps that fasten on each side as opposed to putting holes directly through the roof. This would also make it much easier to leave an inch of space between the roof and panels so they will help keep the heat off your roof. I'm betting some ornamental iron shop could make short work of this while making a custom fit for your panels too. In the end that is a decision you will have to make.

 

[PastTense]

Have you traveled enough to get good gas mileage figures yet?

 

[Patrick46]

with a Chevy 350, he'll be getting about 13mpg's. That's what these get pretty uniformly...altho, since this has an injected engine, you may even get 15mpg's.

I LOVE it!! You've got the nice W I D E bodied version.....cool!

as for the roof structure...it'g gonna be similiar to what's framing the walls...but I'd suggest removing the ceiling skin. These rigs aren't very insulated in the ceilings anyways, so you're gonna need access to be able to put the proper insulation up there anyways. You're gonna need it, as these things can get hotter then crap on a sunny day!!! (think metal mailbox!)
Once you've got the ceiling skins off, then you can see and plot exactally where you wanna put your roof framework, to sit in conjunction with the inner framework. Now would be a good time to run any wires you may want up in your ceiling too...like for your solar panels or any interior lighting.
I too would suggest putting as few holes in your roof skin as humanly possible!

Those tray frames autta come in handy for cutting up and repurposing into framework for whatever you wanna build in here.

I can't wait to see this finished rear door panel that you're building. A faux overhead door.....Hmmmmmmm!!!

OK...well keep up the good work, and keep those photos coming!!

 

[Fabber McGee]

Nice score. Looks just like the retired Twinkie truck I bought last winter. Same dimensions, similar condition. Mine has the Cummins and gets right at 20mpg most of the time.

If it were mine, I would seriously consider making an escape hatch/door in the back wall. If it's on fire, in a wreck or in the water you may want to exit through the rear. Even a tin panel held in by window rubber that you could kick out might keep you alive.

I guess I should update my thread sometime. Summer in Alaska is busy, busy, busy, but I'll try to get to it.

---

Forgot to say, the bread racks in mine weighed 1472 pounds when I sold them to a scrap yard in Houston at a dime a pound. I was on the road, so all I kept was the 1/4 by 1 1/2 flat bars that held it all together. Maybe 60 or 70 pounds worth.

 

[light trip]

Congrats!

If the roll-up door leaks, consider getting rid of it, seal it off.

I lived in a Dodge van in the 80s that was used to haul carpet. It was rear-ended with a roll of carpet hanging out the back which bent both doors. Before I bought it, they took the doors off and welded a hood from a Chevy Impala in place. The top and sides of the hood where cut down to fit flush where the doors used to be. It look pretty cool, the cow (the part with the vents) ran across the bottom and of course had the crease from the hood running down the middle. I put my bed back there, so it worked out great. Add a set of 50 series tires in the back and cragar rims all the way round and it was a pretty cool ride.

You could also do what some utility trailer owners have done. Build an interior wall and use the space between the wall you built and the roll-up door for storage, batteries, spare tire, tools, and if vented, an air-conditioner,

 

[karl]

I second the rear exit, especially with only one side exit.
I carry tools in Thirsty, so replaced the rollup with a tail gate (work area) and hatch(awning) with an interior wall with 4'x2' hinged on top window for escape/light/ventilation/access. All can be opened from inside.
Enjoy the build.

 

[wagoneer]

LOVE EM HADDA 1972 KURBMASTER WITH BARN DOORS THAT SWUNG ALL THE WAY TO THE SIDES OF THE TRUCK WITH A 350. NON DUELLY HERE IN SF THEY TAG THE HELL OUT OF THESE SO THE NEIGHBORS GOT TIRED OF LOOKING AT IT AND RALLY'D AGAINST ME

 

[TucsonAZ]

Thank you all for the warm and helpful responses!

Yeah, the roof and holes, I completely agree there. My plan was actually to do two rows or a total of four 2x2 aluminum angle in 1/16th which would mount to the roof and the panels would all mount to those, I hate poking holes in the roof but see no way around doing so. This would mean four 1/4" holes in each beam. I'd hoped i could rivet as I could use sealed rivets but that isn't an option. I have no clue how else to go about this but that's a lot of money in solar so I need to know it isn't going anyplace and that the people behind me are safe also.

Have you traveled enough to get good gas mileage figures yet?

Haha, I just figured it's one of those things where if you gotta ask, I've assumed 8mpg so anything over that and I will be a happy camper.

as for the roof structure...it'g gonna be similiar to what's framing the walls...but I'd suggest removing the ceiling skin. These rigs aren't very insulated in the ceilings anyways, so you're gonna need access to be able to put the proper insulation up there anyways. You're gonna need it, as these things can get hotter then crap on a sunny day!!! (think metal mailbox!)

Once you've got the ceiling skins off, then you can see and plot exactally where you wanna put your roof framework, to sit in conjunction with the inner framework. Now would be a good time to run any wires you may want up in your ceiling too...like for your solar panels or any interior lighting.

I too would suggest putting as few holes in your roof skin as humanly possible!

Those tray frames autta come in handy for cutting up and repurposing into framework for whatever you wanna build in here.

I can't wait to see this finished rear door panel that you're building. A faux overhead door.....Hmmmmmmm!!!

OK...well keep up the good work, and keep those photos coming!!

Here's the crux of the issue, with the MCS, there isn't much that works for me in terms of insulation and chemicals I can actually be around. I was planning to keep the skin for that reason alone, it's all offgassed up there and at least offers something, along with most of the roof being shaded by the solar. Same with the walls, not much I can do there except chase the good weather! The good news is being from AZ, I'm used to some heat, I think it's 107 out today and I will be using this in the PNW and in good weather to escape the heat. I will have to come up with some solution though.

Oh and those trays, talk about heavy as hell! I will use them someday but for what I have no idea!

Nice score. Looks just like the retired Twinkie truck I bought last winter. Same dimensions, similar condition. Mine has the Cummins and gets right at 20mpg most of the time.

If it were mine, I would seriously consider making an escape hatch/door in the back wall. If it's on fire, in a wreck or in the water you may want to exit through the rear. Even a tin panel held in by window rubber that you could kick out might keep you alive.

I guess I should update my thread sometime. Summer in Alaska is busy, busy, busy, but I'll try to get to it.

---

Forgot to say, the bread racks in mine weighed 1472 pounds when I sold them to a scrap yard in Houston at a dime a pound. I was on the road, so all I kept was the 1/4 by 1 1/2 flat bars that held it all together. Maybe 60 or 70 pounds worth.

---

I may not be able to work in the escape hatch details just yet but agree on it, I will just have to figure that out but remember, most motorhomes only have a single door, or do they have a pop out window too? Anyway, it may not be something I can work in with the timeframe I'm currently working with but agreed, a good idea.

Damn, 1,472!? I knew that was a lot of weight back there but that's intense!

I heard the boxes weigh 2,600 and aluminum is going for $0.60 a pound, I think I could get $0.65 from the local yard, that's $1,690 just in scrap! Makes the price I paid for it seem all the more reasonable.

I will work on more pictures for sure!