I’ve Chosen My Power Station

[mdoverl]

I picked out the Power Station for my solar setup for my car. https://www.amazon.com/MAXOAK-Porta...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVlBluettie eb150.

1500Wh AC110V/1000W for $999.

It’ll fit snuggly on the front passenger floorboard with plenty of space to spare. I think I should be able to run AC to the floor to provide cool air for the fans of the power station.

I’m now researching how much solar panels I can connect and what type. I’m pretty sure Bluettie accepts third party solar panels.

I’m getting excited, things are getting closer to being complete.

I’ve gone cheap on everything leading up to the solar setup, knowing I wanted to invest in Lithium batteries due to my limited storage in my car.

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[mdoverl]

So you can connect up to 3 separate 150 watt panels at 16-60 volts each and 10 amps to charge the eb150.


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[IGBT]

Nice looking unit but very Chinglish description...are you at all concerned with them honoring warranty for a $1000 item?

 

[MrAlvinDude]

So you can connect up to 3 separate 150 watt panels at 16-60 volts each and 10 amps to charge the eb150.

Hmmm... are you aware that voltages needs to be added (summed up) when putting solar panels in series?


The AC/PV charge port specs are: Open Circuit voltage(OCV):16-69V / Max.10A, Max.500W

The three max numbers to be aware of is:
Max 69V - adding OCV voltages of the panels, the sum must not exceed 69V
Max 10A
Max 500W


You need to look at the specs of the particular solar panel.


When you put you solar panels in series, you need to add each panels OCV numbers. 
If each "12V" panel for instance has an OCV value of 21V then three panels in series is 3 x 21V = 63V. - So that is fine.


Here is an example of the specs label of a "12V 100W" solar panel.


Notice how "100W" is mentioned on the label.
But nothing says 12V.  It say 21V (OCV)  and 17V (Vpm)

When staying within voltage limits of a charge port, you need to look at the OCV number. as this is the highest voltage situation that this panel might try to push into the charge port.

 

[mdoverl]

Nice looking unit but very Chinglish description...are you at all concerned with them honoring warranty for a $1000 item?

It’s been verified that it’s an American company that outsources the building of the units in China.


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[mdoverl]

Hmmm... are you aware that voltages needs to be added (summed up) when putting solar panels in series?


The AC/PV charge port specs are: Open Circuit voltage(OCV):16-69V / Max.10A, Max.500W

The three max numbers to be aware of is:
Max 69V - adding OCV voltages of the panels, the sum must not exceed 69V
Max 10A
Max 500W


You need to look at the specs of the particular solar panel.


When you put you solar panels in series, you need to add each panels OCV numbers. 
If each "12V" panel for instance has an OCV value of 21V then three panels in series is 3 x 21V = 63V. - So that is fine.


Here is an example of the specs label of a "12V 100W" solar panel.


Notice how "100W" is mentioned on the label.
But nothing says 12V.  It say 21V (OCV)  and 17V (Vpm)

When staying within voltage limits of a charge port, you need to look at the OCV number. as this is the highest voltage situation that this panel might try to push into the charge port.

This whole thing has been super confusing

Edit: sorry I haven’t had a chance to read your full comment yet as I’m doing stuff right now. I’ll get to it soon though


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[mdoverl]

Hmmm... are you aware that voltages needs to be added (summed up) when putting solar panels in series?


The AC/PV charge port specs are: Open Circuit voltage(OCV):16-69V / Max.10A, Max.500W

The three max numbers to be aware of is:
Max 69V - adding OCV voltages of the panels, the sum must not exceed 69V
Max 10A
Max 500W


You need to look at the specs of the particular solar panel.


When you put you solar panels in series, you need to add each panels OCV numbers. 
If each "12V" panel for instance has an OCV value of 21V then three panels in series is 3 x 21V = 63V. - So that is fine.


Here is an example of the specs label of a "12V 100W" solar panel.


Notice how "100W" is mentioned on the label.
But nothing says 12V.  It say 21V (OCV)  and 17V (Vpm)

When staying within voltage limits of a charge port, you need to look at the OCV number. as this is the highest voltage situation that this panel might try to push into the charge port.

I ended up buying a different system, same company, along with solar panels recommended for it.

https://www.amazon.com/BLUETTI-Port...&keywords=bluetti+ac50s&qid=1617819316&sr=8-3


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[mdoverl]

How can I figure out how much power the following uses?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooluli-Frid...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Below is a screenshot of power usage from the user manual

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[Tom_M]

Your power source is 500 watt-hours and the cooler consumes 48 watts so it would power the cooler for about 10 hours.

 

[highdesertranger]

That's a thermoelectric "cooler" not a refrigerator. it never turns off it draws 5amps continuously, Very inefficient. I tried one did not work for me. Highdesertranger

 

[mdoverl]

Your power source is 500 watt-hours and the cooler consumes 48 watts so it would power the cooler for about 10 hours.

Ok, so you divide the watt hours of the battery by watts of the device to get running hours correct?


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[mdoverl]

Your power source is 500 watt-hours and the cooler consumes 48 watts so it would power the cooler for about 10 hours.

So this mini cooler has an eco mode that uses a usb connection at 5 volts and 2 amps (500 watt battery divide by 5 volts, so I’m assuming 100 hours).

Test online show that people can chill drinks via the 12 volt or outlet connection in 2-3 hours.

After that time I could switch over to USB which won’t keep the drinks chill but cold enough that they can be enjoyable a few hours after.


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[MrAlvinDude]

For your information:
Energy use at 5V and 2 amp is 10W.

The formular is that: Volt x Amp = Watt


With a 500Wh battery, 10W usage will last for up till 50 hours.


And yes, you divide the watt hours of the battery by watts of the device to get running hours.

 

[highdesertranger]

Those coolers will NOT keep your food safe when the temps rise. IMO they are a waste of money and energy hogs. The less power they consume the less they cool. And yes I have tried them before. Highdesertranger

 

[mdoverl]

I’m not using it for food, just for drinks.

Slightly chilled drinks is all I want.

All the food I buy doesn’t need refrigerated.

I do buy salads but I eat them the day I get them.

Do you know of a more energy efficient way to chill canned drinks?


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[Camper]

Buy a small refrigerator with a compressor in it...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-C...751671&hash=item1cd4d12594:g:Ua0AAOSwBS5gIeuY

 

[highdesertranger]

"Do you know of a more energy efficient way to chill canned drinks?"

Place them in a cold mountain stream. I am serious.

Summer is coming that cooler won't chill your cans much at all. The best ones made will cool 40° below ambient. I found the consumer grade ones might do 30° below ambient. A cheap Chinese knock off you might get lucky and get 20°. Do the math.

I am just trying to keep you from wasting money on ripoff/gimmicks.

Before refrigeration they used evaporative cooling in dry climates. I have a couple of those Desert water bags they work better than those coolers.

Highdesertranger

 

[highdesertranger]

Here one of mine,





Highdesertranger

 

[wayne49]

I received one of those "coolers' as a gift. It would not "cool" anything. It would delay warming of the pre-chilled items that I would put inside it. This was summertime, mid 90s, on I-75 driving between Kentucky and Michigan with A/C.

The target market would be sticks and bricks dwellers with refrigerators to cool some drinks, then keep them cool on the go without ice.

Spend a little more for a small refrigerator, chill your drinks and have the ability to keep some thing chilled that you may need at some point in the future.

 

[mdoverl]

I honestly don’t have space for a small refrigerator in my car.


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