How can I find a mechanic near me who makes house calls?

[VanFan]

This very much depends. Fortunately my van is pretty reliable, so I can't say that I have a wide experience with mechanics. But I've never had any problems with sleeping in my van in their parking lot.

I have known a few folks who have slept in an actual shop or parking lot, but it's been a while. Last time we broke down, the mechanic's lot featured three very serious dogs.

Cosmic: I am glad to hear you are in a good spot!

 

[WanderingRose]

Of course, it’s the “24/7” part I don’t believe is doable, which implies staying inside during service hours, while the vehicle is being worked on in the shop.

I’ve done the parking lots, too, a couple of times, and even been offered an extension cord for electricity.

 

[Zerpersande]

I would purchase an OBD scanner for your own use.

I second this suggestion. I had a Foxwell for a BMW I had and when I got my Nissan NV200 I paid about $75 for the software update and it scans fine.

 

[WanderingRose]

AutoZone will also scan those codes for free, if I remember correctly.

 

[tradesman]

This is the one I've used and you can see the code and description of the code too.

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL539B...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

[CosmickGold]

I now own the ANCEL AD410 for OBDII onboard diagnosis. ($39.99) So now I'm studying the manual, hoping to be ready to plug the device into White Cloud tomorrow.

 

[Zerpersande]

This is the one I've used and you can see the code and description of the code too.

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL539B...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Looks a lot like my Foxwell except that it has a battery tester.

 

[Happy Camper]

Any updates with the scanner?

 

[thegoodtom1]

Something not said and increasingly abundant is electrical wiring. A single wire can cause many of these issues and also connect and disconnect without warning (like a ground wire). Alternatively, you stated that the engine was replaced. Whether by a mechanic or not, a bolt could have been too loose and disconnected a ground. Further, since soy has been used in wire insulation, rodents seem to think them a treat. It would be prudent to crawl all over and around your rig, paying close attention to the wiring (especially around the engine and connecting to the dashboard). If there are no signs of damage, wear, or disconnection, try wiggling wires while it is running well (to see if something is loose or broken inside the insulation). Hope this helps narrow your dilema down.

 

[CosmickGold]

I thought that possibly, the cause of Cloud suddenly coughing and kicking back worse than ever before, might be because it has just rained continuously for the last 24 hours. So maybe there's moisture in the ignition system shorting the spark voltage to the wrong places at the wrong times To test this theory, I didn't try to start White Cloud again for two bright sunny days, giving it a chance to bake in the sunshine. Then today, I finally turned the key. To my delight, Cloud started in less than a second on the first turn! And then Cloud ran perfectly, quietly, and smoothly. I had my OBDII scanner connected, which reported "No Faults". Yippee!

So I assume it's all a matter of moisture creeping into the ignition system.
Ok guys, how can I go about solving that? I know you've got the answers.

 

[LargeMarge]

I am glad you are mobile again.
I bet a list like this might be good to keep around.

 

[Malamute]

I thought that possibly, the cause of Cloud suddenly coughing and kicking back worse than ever before, might be because it has just rained continuously for the last 24 hours. So maybe there's moisture in the ignition system shorting the spark voltage to the wrong places at the wrong times To test this theory, I didn't try to start White Cloud again for two bright sunny days, giving it a chance to bake in the sunshine. Then today, I finally turned the key. To my delight, Cloud started in less than a second on the first turn! And then Cloud ran perfectly, quietly, and smoothly. I had my OBDII scanner connected, which reported "No Faults". Yippee!

So I assume it's all a matter of moisture creeping into the ignition system.
Ok guys, how can I go about solving that? I know you've got the answers.

Back in the 1900s in the points and condensor era, that would be a possible symptom of a cracked distributor cap. Also possibly a distributor cap that had carbon arcing etched into the inside of the cap. No idea if they behave similarly today, I havent had to work on most of mine in ages. If you can reach it without issue, pop the distributor cap and look inside it and see if the contacts are clean or any other obvious problems. Finding a youtube describing how to check it will give instructions.

If you decide to replace the cap, dont just pull all the plug wires off at once and put on the new cap. Each one has to be put in exactly the same spot for the firing order to work right.

Edit: Another thought, start it in the dark with the hood open, look carefully for arcs of leaking wires (little flashes of light), the spark plug wires in particular. Use a light to see where the plug wires are then turn off the light and look at them where they may touch or be close to metal. If you see arcs, whatever is leaking spark needs to be replaced. Heat and time break down wire insulation, the high voltage spark plug wires in particular can go bad, the moisture may be enhancing the spark loss or arcing.

This may help you understand what Im talking about. Hes a bit wordy but eventually describes it.

 

[Happy Camper]

I remember you have a 1 ton Chevy. What year and engine do you have?

 

[bullfrog !]

As mentioned before WD 40 works to displace water. Generally I would assume the coil is working so cap rotor and plug wires would be my guess.

 

[CosmickGold]

What year, make, model, engine is your rig?

As mentioned before WD 40 works to displace water. Generally I would assume the coil is working so cap rotor and plug wires would be my guess.

Thanks for the tips, like on what to replace first! I don't know what engine. I'm told it is a replacement engine from AutoZone, but I have not found anyone who can reliably tell me which engine. If I get stuck again, your WD 40 tip might get me going again, but it sounds like a temporary fix; so I'm still going to a mechanic for the rest.

 

[Malamute]

Thanks for the tips, like on what to replace first! I don't know what engine. I'm told it is a replacement engine from AutoZone, but I have not found anyone who can reliably tell me which engine. If I get stuck again, your WD 40 tip might get me going again, but it sounds like a temporary fix; so I'm still going to a mechanic for the rest.

I dont know if it covers your year, but you can go to a GM website and enter the VIN number of your vehicle and it will tell you all sorts of info about it. The replacement engine is most likely an exact or very close to identical replacement. The engine also should have a number on it, that will tell you details about it also. I discovered that the engine in my 67 chevy K10 pickup I had long ago had a small block 400 from a car. The info today is far more detailed and accessible.

Try this https://chevroletforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

 

[CosmickGold]

There is such a conceptual distance between the blue "like" emoji and red-eyed "love" moji, I often find it hard to decide which one to use, if either. Often "like" seems insultingly weak, while "love" would rise over the top like foam on a beer and go splashing down onto the floor! So I'm now trying to follow these three made-up rules:
(1) If I think reading it would benefit no one other than me, nothing. A message only for me should be sent as a private conversation so others can more easily locate the messages of value to them.
(2) If it can benefit others, but is either something I already knew, or isn't anything I plan to use, it gets a like.
(3) If it is new information for me -- and I plan to use it -- It gets a love. (The next comment above is a perfect example.)

 

[CosmickGold]

. . . . you can go to a GM website and enter the VIN number of your vehicle and it will tell you all sorts of info about it. . . . Try this https://chevroletforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

Great tip!
It worked perfectly.
I now know I have a 5.7L (350) SFI V8 Vortec 5700 engine.

 

[Happy Camper]

What year?

 

[CosmickGold]

What year?

Ha ha ha! I'm laughing because that's such a complicated question, asked so simply.
The body is the 1998 model.
Which probably means it was assembled in 1997.
However, the engine had been replaced, perhaps a year before I purchased the van in 2017.
And the replacement engine was not new, but an AutoZone rebuild, so no tellin' how long it had been on the road before that.

I regret that I can't provide a more specific answer, even for myself!
But I'm guessing the engine has had about 50,000 miles put on it since the rebuild.

My plan is to wait until after the holidays, and then let a mechanic "refresh" the engine as needed for rain protection and gas mileage. I read that this engine should get as much as 19 mpg, but I seem to be getting only 10 mpg. I'd love to have that improved.