How can I find a mechanic near me who makes house calls?

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CosmickGold

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What do wise old van dwellers do in my situation?

I tried having my van towed to a mechanic. It cost me $175.00 for the tow and then the problem disappeared! The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. I had to simply drive it (no longer requiring a tow) back home again.

The problem almost always occurs while the motor is cold. Then it refuses to start (hence, the tow). It seldom occurs while on the road, but occasionally it does, causing the engine to shake and thump like it's about to jump out from under the hood!

I can't take it to the local mechanic and leave it, because the van is my home! And he told me the building owner does not allow anyone to stay on the property overnight.

I can't do the work myself. I'm not strong enough. I tried, taking a tire off to make the spark plugs visible, but then I couldn't lift the tire to put it back on!

YourMechanic.com sounds like a wonderful service. They even quote you the price online before a mechanic comes to visit your van. However, when the mechanic saw I'd converted the inside of my van into my living space, he informed me the company does not allow their mechanics to work on self-modified vehicles. Both of us were highly disappointed. (Super bummer!)

So again I ask, what do wise old van dwellers do in my situation?
 
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Google mobile rv repair, but this will cost you more than a place you take it into.

I have spent a few nights in parking lots of rv repair places, while waiting for a part to come in or work to be done during the day.

If you ask, an rv place may be able to accommodate you.
 
Well first off if it is a newer vehicle the computer may have stored a code. There are code readers and instruments that monitor and record things like spark intensity, fuel and oil pressure, battery and charging system voltage just by plugging into the connector under the dash.

Looking on the internet at forums specifically for your vehicle can provide some common starting problems that might be easy to check for when the vehicle fails to start such as an electric fuel pump that is going bad and occasionally sticks until you thump the tank mounting or slosh around the fuel knocking it loose. If you give us enough information it is possible to explain possible easy ways to troubleshoot problems and maybe even suggest parts you may want to have checked or replaced. First off we need to know the vehicle make year and model. What engine and transmission. Anything you can tell us or even pictures or video of the instrument panel and sounds while turning the key will help.
We often have to rent an AirBnb or room overnight, sometimes many nights as the garage we use is over 200 miles away. We have had things show up during regular maintenance that required a day or two to get parts resulting in long stays. One reason emergency funds disappear and to keep good maintenance is we don’t want to pay $600 to $1000 for a tow. Maybe replacing a common failure part would be cheaper?
 
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CG you may have to shell out some money to stay in a nearby hotel or motel while they do the diagnosis and repair. And that might involve using Lyft or Uber or maybe a bicycle or simply walking to and from the room and the shop. If the repair is expected to last for several days, you might consider renting a little ecno-box to get around in for a few days.

When you say 'refuses to start'....do you mean it cranks and never catches? Or you get no cranking at all? Just a click? Or nothing, nada zip...when this happens do any dashboard indicators show up? Normal lights and indications? Something different every time?

Or does it try to 'catch' then coughs and snorts and quits?

Not that we can diagnose this issue here but...we might be able to steer you in the right direction if we knew how it was acting when it's causing problems.

Good luck.
 
CG you may have to shell out some money to stay in a nearby hotel or motel while they do the diagnosis and repair. And that might involve using Lyft or Uber or maybe a bicycle or simply walking to and from the room and the shop. If the repair is expected to last for several days, you might consider renting a little ecno-box to get around in for a few days.

When you say 'refuses to start'....do you mean it cranks and never catches? Or you get no cranking at all? Just a click? Or nothing, nada zip...when this happens do any dashboard indicators show up? Normal lights and indications? Something different every time?

Or does it try to 'catch' then coughs and snorts and quits?

Not that we can diagnose this issue here but...we might be able to steer you in the right direction if we knew how it was acting when it's causing problems.

Good luck.
It almost always "coughts and snorts" before suddenly changing to a normal sound and running perfectly. But this morning, it continued coughing and snorting way too long, so I turned the key off. After some seconds, I tried to start it again, but now the turnover would stop with a bit of a "clunk" at a specific point, as I held the key, then start turning again before another "clunk" at the same point, repeating the turnover, "clunk", and then turnover again as long as I held the key. These clangy "clunks" are something it has never done before today. Also one time this morning, about three seconds after I let go of the key, a cylinder fired one time, rotating the engine again for just a moment.

It is a 1998 Chevy Exress 3500 with the largest gas motor (I think, because it has been replaced with a rebuilt engine from AutoZone).

It rained the last 24 hours straight. I wonder if something in the engine got too moist and is now conducting electricity through the water to the wrong places?

I don't want to rent a room while they keep it overnight, because I don't want to risk someone going through my stuff and/or stealing whatever they want. My brother had a bad experience with that in his rig when he left it for repair.
 
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Since you have a '98, any codes that have been set can be read with an OBDII scanner (something the mechanic didn't do?). Even AutoZone can read those codes for you. It is important to understand that the codes do not point to specific parts, but rather to systems. Knowing what systems may be involved could help you feel comfortable with a diagnosis.

Mobile RV mechanics in North Texas charge around $150/hour, plus a service call fee, and are not necessarily capable of dealing with the automotive side of things.

I am envisioning a good outcome, and am hopeful that you are in a good spot for the next day or two.
 
Was or is the “check engine light” on or flashing while the engine is running? As stated above a scanner can be used to give an idea of where the problem is. Most auto parts stores will check codes with one of theirs for free. You can also buy one of the cheaper ones. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing how to plug them in and turn them on to read the codes yourself. How many miles are on the new engine? How often has the oil and filter been changed? Has it sat for long periods of time? Does it seem like the engine is trying to kick back or maybe backfire while cranking? Knowing your location will help as maybe someone here can recommend a trustworthy mechanic or local mobile mechanic.
 
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Was or is the “check engine light” on or flashing while the engine is running? As stated above a scanner can be used to give an idea of where the problem is. Most auto parts stores will check codes with one of theirs for free. You can also buy one of the cheaper ones. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing how to plug them in and turn them on to read the codes yourself. How many miles are on the new engine? How often has the oil and filter been changed? Has it sat for long periods of time? Does it seem like the engine is trying to kick back or maybe backfire while cranking? Knowing your location will help as maybe someone here can recommend a trustworthy mechanic or local mobile mechanic.
I maybe able to help, where are you?
 
. . . . Google mobile rv repair, but this will cost you more than a place you take it into.
I have spent a few nights in parking lots of rv repair places, while waiting for a part to come in or work to be done during the day.
If you ask, an rv place may be able to accommodate you. . . .
. . . . does it try to 'catch' then coughs and snorts and quits? . . .
. . . . any codes that have been set can be read with an OBDII scanner (something the mechanic didn't do?). Even AutoZone can read those codes for you. It is important to understand that the codes do not point to specific parts, but rather to systems. . . .
. . . . How many miles are on the new engine? How often has the oil and filter been changed? Has it sat for long periods of time? Does it seem like the engine is trying to kick back or maybe backfire while cranking? . . .
I maybe able to help, where are you?

I thank you all for being so willing and ready to help!

I'm in Arlington, Texas, between Dallas and Fort Worth, near GPS 32.69677600563712, -97.11319247361688. There has been no engine check light on nor flashing. The seller told me the engine is an AutoZone rebuild, and now probably has about 45,000 miles on it since then. I've bought a scanner so now need to learn how to use it. Only about 1,000 miles since the last oil change. The engine does try "to kick back" while starting, and occasionally even "backfire", seemingly between the engine and muffler. I have let it sit without starting for over a month a few times. If someone knows a local mechanic who is willing to come to my van, that will be great! The van is in a good location for the season; everything I need is nearby.
 
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A couple points to mention, first, you dont have towing insurance? Ive heard people talk about AAA, I dont know the details, it may be worth having. I just have towing insurance on my vehicle insurance (State Farm). Theyve never failed to pay me back after a tow so long as it was towed to the closest place it could be repaired.

If you can get video of it when starting and catching the sounds its making and shaking would be helpful to your mechanic and perhaps to someone on the forum.

Another thought, perhaps a mechanic would work on it in the street next to or around the corner from their place to alleviate the nobody on site after hours thing and dealing with getting a room and transportation during shop time.
 

Great thoughts, Malamute! I have AAA towing, but would first need to find where I could stay in my van 24/7 while it's being repaired. I certainly should make an audio recording of the sounds of not starting (wish I had already done so). I'll ask about the street outside the mechanic-I-know's shop.
 
Just to make sure the check engine light is working turn the key to the on position and it should light up along with all the other indicator lights. The fact you haven’t seen or don’t have a check engine light on continuously if it’s working means the problem may not be something not monitored by the computer. When you check for trouble codes you may find some misfire codes as you stated it has occurred while warmed up and driving a few times. Backfire and kicking back while cranking usually means the electrical spark is not arriving at the spark plug or the correct cylinder at the correct time or there is not enough fuel pressure. It could be a simple ignition problem. Ignition cap, rotor and secondary ignition (spark plug and coil) wires are all subject to failure after 50,000 miles or so although they do often last much longer. WD40 spray displaces water and often will clear up moisture caused problems. All of these parts should be able to be replaced in a few hours in a shop. As I stated before an electric fuel pump as it starts to go bad can also exhibit the same symptoms. Sometimes just having someone beat on the fuel tank underneath the vehicle while someone turns the key while connected to a jumper pack to insure the battery is performing at it’s best will get it working for a while. It also can be replaced in a day if parts are available although you do need to in most cases remove the fuel tank. On very rare occasions with much older vehicles timing chains stretch and can skip teeth causing similar symptoms and will require the front of the motor to be disassembled just so you know. As my vehicles have gotten older with higher miles I have had to replace all these items. In my Suburban I actually cut a hole in the floor and made an access panel so I can change the fuel pump without dropping the tank and carry a complete ignition system as I plan on keeping them for many years to come and travel remote areas. Most garages won’t allow you to be in your van or the work area while they work due to insurance policies requirements. You need to find a mechanic and shop you can trust. Check local better business bureau and internet groups and reviews then ask around local parts stores to see who they recommend. I would also check with the former owner if you can or Auto Zone to see if the motor came with a transferable warranty which would be unlikely, but maybe?
 
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I don't want to rent a room while they keep it overnight, because I don't want to risk someone going through my stuff and/or stealing whatever they want. My brother had a bad experience with that in his rig when he left it for repair.

Just to be a bit clearer about my suggestion to possibly get a room. You can always go back to the shop each morning and 'helicopter' the mechanics for a few minutes, a few times during work hours, then head back to your room (or a restaurant, movie, pub, whatever) in the evening when the shop is closing.

During the day you can hang out in the waiting area, if they have one, maybe offer to get your guys a pizza at lunch, or you could sit out front in your folding chair and read a magazine, an e-reader, surf the web on a laptop. Visit with other customers as they come and go.

Maybe buy a sixpack or a bucket of BBQ chicken for them when the job is done. Just hanging out nearby tells them that you are 'invested' in the process, and available, for questions, and being a 'real person' on the premises means things are less likely to disappear.

These are things I have done, more than once, over my lifetime of trucking and taking long trips on motorcycles.

Staying in a motel room at night does not mean relinquishing 'ownership' of the repair job.

Or so it seems to me.

Good luck.
 
Great thoughts, Malamute! I have AAA towing, but would first need to find where I could stay in my van 24/7 while it's being repaired. I certainly should make an audio recording of the sounds of not starting (wish I had already done so). I'll ask about the street outside the mechanic-I-know's shop.

When Ive taken mine to be worked on I remove the most valuable and sensitive stuff, either at home, my other vehicle, or get a short term storage locker (I used to keep a 4x4x4 locker for seasonal stuff I didnt want to drag around full time) or whatever. I guess you could rent a uhaul van for a couple days and swap out into it temporarily and have a place to stay in the process.

If this seems like too much trouble, consider how youre going to handle dealing with your valuables if you get in a wreck or break down for real out on the road, you wont have a lot of choice what happens to the vehicle but having a plan how to clear the most important stuff expeditiously is a good idea.
 
What year, make, model, engine is your rig?

It's probably a simple fix.

One thing I would strongly consider is taking your battery in to get charged and checked. Some of the latter sounds and symptoms are most likely your battery just running low after trying to start the engine so much.

Regardless of the check engine light being on or not, go to an AutoZone or similar and get the codes read. The computer stores codes that were previously triggered and aren't current, and also can store likely upcoming codes.

The actual problem you are having can be many things. But a lot of those can be simple fixes. While you can't do the work yourself, it'll save you time and money if you can get more information and eliminate potential issues before paying someone to do the work.
 
I thank you all for being so willing and ready to help!

I'm in Arlington, Texas, between Dallas and Fort Worth, near GPS 32.69677600563712, -97.11319247361688. If someone knows a local mechanic who is willing to come to my van, that will be great! The van is in a good location for the season; everything I need is nearby.
I don't know of mobile mechanic's, or even a good one in Arlington. Dwight & Don's in Mesquite has been my go-to for many years. They are old school mechanics, and while not cheap, have always been more than fair and honest. Mesquite is definitely not a van friendly place, though. (I think I hold the record for getting "the knock": under five minutes and two patrol cars. LOL.
 
I would purchase an OBD scanner for your own use. It can be kept in place and then when the engine makes the noise you hear, start the scanner and see if there is a code. They can also monitor more than just the codes, such as the alternator, battery charging etc. Less than $100. My 98 express was showing the check engine light, so rather than driving it to a dealer and pay money for them to say "don't worry about it, or to say yes you should worry because of ...", I was able to see what the code was, know that it was not something that needed to be taken care of right away, and reset the code. Paid for itself with the first use.
 
And I don’t believe staying in your van 24/7 at any shop can be done.
This very much depends. Fortunately my van is pretty reliable, so I can't say that I have a wide experience with mechanics. But I've never had any problems with sleeping in my van in their parking lot. Neither scenic nor quiet, but - I've done it. So ask. Depends a lot on the job they are doing, but unless they have to really tear into the engine or transmission, they most likely won't be keeping your vehicle inside the shop overnight.
 
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