Has anyone tried one of these Chinese Diesel Parking Heaters?
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After watching several video's on these diesel heaters, I want to try one first to see how I like it. I love to experiment with new machines anyway. The cost is so much less than the propane vented heaters. Who knows, I just might like the diesel heater better.
I live by my self. I only heat/cool one room In the house. Been that way for 12 years since divorce. I'm used to it. Anyway guy was in a motor home . He bought a chinese heater just for the bedroom so he would not run furnace. Of course he closes off bedroom like me. He loves it. About 100 dollars for a small 5k he runs on low. I came here to find more out.
Riverman said:
Did you install your own Propex? If so, was it difficult?
I've been pondering a Propex, but professional installation almost doubles the price. So lately I've been leaning back towards a Camco Wave 8. (I'm in a 5th wheel, so a Wave 8 is the right size I think.)
The Propex would be probably $900 by itself and $1800 installed, whereas the Wave 8 would be about $300, and I could definitely manage the installation. I think there are big advantages to the Propex, such as a thermostat, and that it will heat my water tanks through the ducts preventing freezing. Also, it will be invisible (hidden), whereas the Wave 8 will be right in front of me when I'm sitting in my chair. But the price difference is huge.
B and C
Well-known member
@Barlyguy
I don't have one of these but I do have a suburban furnace. There is one factor you are not considering, a propane byproduct is water. With the propex being ventet to the outside, you won't have a water vapor buildup inside from the propane or need to open a window for ventilation. My thermostat is by my bed. I turn it down at night and when I wake up it is just a matter of sticking my arm out to turn it up. I can also run my furnace while I sleep.
I don't have one of these but I do have a suburban furnace. There is one factor you are not considering, a propane byproduct is water. With the propex being ventet to the outside, you won't have a water vapor buildup inside from the propane or need to open a window for ventilation. My thermostat is by my bed. I turn it down at night and when I wake up it is just a matter of sticking my arm out to turn it up. I can also run my furnace while I sleep.
B and C said:
I also have a Suburban furnace, two of them actually. There's one in the bedroom and one in the living room. The one in the living room squeaks, and because of its age I am planning to decommission it. That's the exact spot I was planning to put either a Propex or Wave 8.
I have considered the water vapor issue. I've heard that the catalytic heaters like the Wave 8 are much better than a propane burning furnace such as a Mr Buddy. But I also agree that the Propex is the best solution. Just not sure if I want to spend the additional money. It's about 6 times the price with installation.
B and C
Well-known member
You could always scavenge the salvage yards for a replacement suburban. It would be a lot cheaper unless you are keeping it a long time.
highest_vision
Well-known member
bullfrog said:
Thanks for sharing these! I find it hard to believe they are only 10# (or less!). They have a wood stove, too. I wonder if they are related to the old RV company.
B and C said:
I don't want another Suburban. The Suburban eats battery. On a cold night it can suck down 50 amp hours. Not too useful for boondocking. I do have enough solar and batteries to cover it if the sun shines during the day, but if it's cloudy and all I have are two Suburbans, I'll end up with a dead battery. Also, the working Suburban I have in the bedroom is probably enough for the whole space, unless I'm camping somewhere extremely cold.
So the goal of the whole exercise is to find something that uses much less battery power. The Wave 8 uses no electricity at all. A Propex is very battery efficient. It uses less than 2 amps while running, and doesn't run all the time. So on a cold night it might use 5 to 10 AH, which is about 5 to 10 times less than a Suburban.
If you're on shore power all the time, a Suburban is a good solution. I'm hoping not to have to be.
Cheers,
Harley.
B and C
Well-known member
No shore power, just 350Ah of battery, 400 watts of solar and a generator. TBH, I am not sure how much juice my suburban takes cycling at night. I set the thermostat about 55-60 at night and don't stay in cold (or hot) temps that much. I generally have about 70% battery remaining in the morning according to my Trimetric battery monitor. This is about a 20% reserve. I use a lot of electricity for other things too.
The reasoning I heard for the heaters not turning off from this youtuber (excellent watch btw) and as referenced earlier, is that the glow plugs take 9 amps for 5 minutes to properly warm, ignite and maintain the heater in the on state until it runs without, then it maintains its on state at 2 amps (the fan I assume). If you cycle on and off then you will use more electricity rewarming the glow plug and not save much gas, plus the noise would be fluctuating. If it shut off completely then it would just be cycling back on and warming itself back up just to return the temperature level then shut off about the time it was efficient. By staying on at low, I suspect it is at its most efficient state.Suewu said:
To those who don't suggest running heaters at night, I'm curious if you are comfortable with what the RV's use at night? Aren't they running pressurized propane heaters? Seems just as sketchy as a remote diesel heater.
I'm still undecided on the diesel heaters. I saw an amazon buyer picture of a heavily smoking exhaust tube and it made me think for a second
B and C
Well-known member
I wouldn't run a non vented propane heater overnight. RV's come with a vented propane heater which means the combustion and exhaust is done with outside air. It warms a clamshell which transfers the heat to the interior where a fan circulates it. I have no qualms about running a vented propane heater all night if needed. The thermostat is greatly appreciated too.
Isn't that what the chinese heaters are doing though?
Personally, I don't like the idea of a heat source withh a diesel tank over it, so I'm looking at the suit case model. If the unit went up in flames the air inlet would hopefully just melt and the entire unit would be found in the morning as a puddle of melted plastic and aluminum.
I read somewhere that diesel is preferred as it needs an open flame to ignite (versus propane and gasoline fumes). Is that true?
Personally, I don't like the idea of a heat source withh a diesel tank over it, so I'm looking at the suit case model. If the unit went up in flames the air inlet would hopefully just melt and the entire unit would be found in the morning as a puddle of melted plastic and aluminum.
I read somewhere that diesel is preferred as it needs an open flame to ignite (versus propane and gasoline fumes). Is that true?
B and C
Well-known member
Yes it is.
I have put a cigarette butt out in gasoline before. Yes, gasoline and propane have a lower vapor point than diesel. Diesel will combust under big pressure or with a glow plug (or flame). Don't the diesel heaters have a glow plug that has to be heated by 12V before they will ignite or is there an always on pilot light?
I have put a cigarette butt out in gasoline before. Yes, gasoline and propane have a lower vapor point than diesel. Diesel will combust under big pressure or with a glow plug (or flame). Don't the diesel heaters have a glow plug that has to be heated by 12V before they will ignite or is there an always on pilot light?
Yes, as I undersrand it, the diesel heaters use a glow plug ignition point. Based on this, it seems the vented diesel heaters would be safer than a propane or gasoline venter furnace. I suggest this since the propane is poisonous and pressurised into the heater body which is mounted on the van. The gasoline option, though not pressurized, is much more flammable and less odorous.
I am about to pull the trigger on one of these cheaters in the suitcase model. 2kw seems to be the right size for a moderately insulated van, if you can find a vendor that will send you a true 2 heater and not just a 3,4 or 5 heater with reduced settings.
I am about to pull the trigger on one of these cheaters in the suitcase model. 2kw seems to be the right size for a moderately insulated van, if you can find a vendor that will send you a true 2 heater and not just a 3,4 or 5 heater with reduced settings.
I'm currently installing (5kw) one under the new cabin I'm fitting out. I decided to install it in a homemade box under the insulated box truck body (read Pantec) section of this 2 room cabin. Just didn't like the idea of having the whole unit in the room when it didn't have to be.
Battery set up for this will be solely shared with the composting toilet fan, with their own dedicated solar panels.
Plenty of RV and caravan here have them installed as well as I've seen a few on yachts.
Battery set up for this will be solely shared with the composting toilet fan, with their own dedicated solar panels.
Plenty of RV and caravan here have them installed as well as I've seen a few on yachts.
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I guess there is nothing stopping you from taking hot air back in through the inlet. In my case routing the inlet up through the floor (hassle being 4" thick)Pusher said:
Remember most of these things are usually mounted on the inside where they would naturally take more already heated air.
It doesn't get as cold here in Aus. so I'm happy to have it under there.
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