Fleas?? Eggs? Ever use normal isoprpyl alchohol?

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JD GUMBEE

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I was told long ago than regular rubbing alcohol works as good as the pricey stuff they sell @ the vet or "foggers."
91% isopro-something 91% concentration cost under a dollar a bottle.


Mr Peg Leg, a local friend, bought a TT that was INFESTED.

We put it in a windex bottle.
Walk in and within 10 seconds, they were on your legs biting you.

He was going to bomb the TT.

We used three bottles of 91% with sprayers and soaked all the fabric in the TT.
Flipped the cushions and sprayed under them.
Inside the cabinets and under the heater panel, too.

Then we shut the door and left it (with the power off and no propane fridge running) overnight.

Next day, it smelled of it, but an hour of the windows open CLEARED it totally.
No off gassing when it can evaporate.
No cloth damage and no chemicals to grow a flesh sack on your forehead, either.

Anyone else done this?
AFAIK, once it evaps, it is gone.
No harm to us or dogs/cats...but if you do a "hash-tent" overnight seal like we did...I would make sure windows were opened for a few hours.

I know it killed those little *******s like bee spray. BOOM! DONE.
Eggs do not seem to come back, either. It dries them up kind of.

Chemical sensitive people may find this a better thing to do than the poison crap sold for the purpose.
Chemists here??
Feedback?


This might sound too simple, but anyone who has gardened knows you can avoid pesticide with a little newspaper and lemon joy in normal water instead of pouring agent orange level BS on your stuff.
The stuff they sell for 24US$ a bottle sure smells like Alcohol to me.

You know...if you were to find spiders in your RV...this same stuff could be pumped riiiiiight into the wall a little.
Bet they would run or die fast from it...without harming you.
 
Walmart usually has bottles of 90% iso in the pharmacy section. I have burned it in my alcohol stove on rare occasion when I could not get any denatured. (It burns OK, but it makes quite a bit of sooty smoke.)
 
50%   -75%-    91%     can be found at Dollar General stores in my area SW, VA
$1 ^-  $1.50^ -$2.25^  Qt. size
 
Be careful with the 91% iso while spraying or spreading on surfaces. wear gloves and a mask. Anyone with even slight respiratory senesitivties can have serious problems breathing or inhaling those fumes, and your skin absorbs the alcohol super fast. You can get very sick right away!

For furniture and carpeting the best,safe way to eliminate fleas and hatching larva is to fine ground salt and sprinkle liberally EVERYWHERE. The hatching larvae eat it and it kills them right away. I have heard that borax (powdered soap/laundry additive) also works but I have used salt and it worked for me. Obviously when you vacuum you need to re spread more salt. Absolutely grind it small or the grains are too large for the larvae to eat. The adult fleas need to die off, so spread salt and then close up room/rv as best as you can and wait 48 hours, then vacuum, spread more salt and you should at least be able to live in the space without getting bit.

I am allergic to flea saliva(gross, I know) so can not tolerate any flea bites...since I have dogs I know how to live flea free, and especially how to get rid of them!
Safely.
Best of luck!
 
I have never heard of using Borax but using Boric Acid is common. Borax and Boric Acid are both derivatives of Boron so Borax might work. highdesertranger
 
I don't know about the larvae eating it, but salt will dry out the eggs just like many other chemicals, including borax. Where I grew up, fleas were a tremendous constant problem you had to treat pretty much non-stop, as even if you cured them in the house, they and their eggs were still out in the grass not far from the door. So you WOULD be bringing more inside, no way around it.

I found great success applying borax. 20 Mule Team Borax is readily available in a wide variety of stores. It works fine. The brand doesn't matter, though.

I have never seen it harm a carpet. It dries up flea eggs. You have to sprinkle it on, trying to hit every spot. Leave it in for a few hours or overnight, whatever works, then vacuum it up. Fleas lay eggs frequently, so this has to go on and on. Luckily the powder is very cheap. If you do this every day or two for a week, you should start to notice some results. But because one flea or another will be laying new eggs while the old ones die, it would probably take at least a couple of weeks before the fleas stop replenishing themselves as fast as you can kill off their eggs.

So you're in it for the long haul, whether you bug bomb, use this or that chemical, whatever. I'd recommend borax because at least in the concentrations you'll need to use it, there are few if any health effects (way less than some of those crazy toxic sprays), it doesn't leave an oily residue like bombs or sprays, leaves little or no odor, is cheap, and it works ... if you apply yourself.
 
tav-2020 said:
Be careful with the 91% iso while spraying or spreading on surfaces. wear gloves and a mask. Anyone with even slight respiratory senesitivties can have serious problems breathing or inhaling those fumes, and your skin absorbs the alcohol super fast. You can get very sick right away!

For furniture and carpeting the best,safe way to eliminate fleas and hatching larva is to fine ground salt and sprinkle liberally EVERYWHERE.  The hatching larvae eat it and it kills them right away. I have heard that borax (powdered soap/laundry additive) also works but I have used salt and it worked for me.  Obviously when you vacuum you need to re spread more salt.  Absolutely grind it small or the grains are too large for the larvae to eat.  The adult fleas need to die off, so spread salt and then close up room/rv as best as you can and wait 48 hours,  then vacuum, spread more salt and you should at least be able to live in the space without getting bit.

I am allergic to flea saliva(gross, I know) so can not tolerate any flea bites...since I have dogs I know how to live flea free, and especially how to get rid of them!
Safely.
Best of luck!
Thanks for the tip. Do you mean you leave the salt in all the time? Or how long? I'm afraid my dog would lick it.
 
More on the flea issue. I was told, when I moved to the desert, that fleas can't live here so no problem for the animals. But, I've also been told that's no longer true. Does anyone have a recommendation for something to put on the animal? Sounds like collars and pills are not so good for them. THanks!
 
mert: flea eggs can still hatch after just laying in the carpet for a few months. the last time I had fleas in the house, maybe 7 years ago, I think I re-salted the carpeting and bed mattress ( underneath sheets andmattress cover) for about 2-3 months and vacuumed every other day. Towards the end i’m sure I used less and less salt. But it def worked for me.
 
Diatomaceous earth -food grade
You can buy it anywhere and sprinkle it on pets , carpet and totally safe"

It is commonly used in lieu of boric acid, and can be used to help control and possibly eliminate bed bug, house dust mite, cockroach, ant and flea infestations.[16]*



From the wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth

Pest control

Diatomite is of value as an insecticide, because of its abrasive and physico-sorptive properties.[13] The fine powder adsorbs lipids from the waxy outer layer of the exoskeletons of many species of insects; this layer acts as a barrier that resists the loss of water vapour from the insect's body. Damaging the layer increases the evaporation of water from their bodies, so that they dehydrate, often fatally.

Arthropods die as a result of the water pressure deficiency, based on Fick's law of diffusion. This also works against gastropods and is commonly employed in gardening to defeat slugs. However, since slugs inhabit humid environments, efficacy is very low. Diatomaceous earth is sometimes mixed with an attractant or other additives to increase its effectiveness.

The shape of the diatoms contained in a deposit has not been proven to affect their functionality when it comes to the adsorption of lipids; however, certain applications, such as that for slugs and snails, do work best when a particular shaped diatom is used, suggesting that lipid adsorption is not the whole story. For example, in the case of slugs and snails large, spiny diatoms work best to lacerate the epithelium of the mollusk. Diatom shells will work to some degree on the vast majority of animals that undergo ecdysis in shedding cuticle, such as arthropods or nematodes. It also may have other effects on lophotrochozoans, such as mollusks or annelids.

Medical-grade diatomite has been studied for its efficacy as a deworming agent in cattle; in both studies cited the groups being treated with diatomaceous earth did not fare any better than control groups.[14][15] It is commonly used in lieu of boric acid, and can be used to help control and possibly eliminate bed bug, house dust mite, cockroach, ant and flea infestations.[16]

Diatomaceous earth is widely applied for insect control in grain storage.[17]

In order to be effective as an insecticide, diatomaceous earth must be uncalcinated (i.e., it must not be heat-treated prior to application)[18] and have a mean particle size below about 12 µm (i.e., food grade – see below).

Although considered to be relatively low-risk, pesticides containing diatomaceous earth are not exempt from regulation in the United States under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act and must be registered with the Environmental Protection Agency.[19]
 
You should avoid inhaling DE, and that keep your pets from inhaling it too.
 
I would start by getting rid of the carpets if you have any in your RV. Then make sure that ALL the fabrics in your RV can be removed and washed. My mattress is protected with a water proof cover that breathes but also won't allow tiny dust mites to penetrate it. It too can be removed for washing. The fleas can't get behind the walls in my RV, I sealed all the joints of those wall coverings to prevent moisture from getting behind the walls. That is a common sense way to do a build, you don't want dirt or moisture to get behind your walls as that is what creates mold issues. If dust can't get behind the walls neither can fleas or spiders.

Of course the most important link in the chain after getting the space cleaned is keeping your pet treated so that any fleas that get onto it are killed as well as their eggs. Eating a flea can and often does give the animal tape worms. So then they get sick from that. Plus of course they are miserable when they do get a flea infestation as are you.
 
jim solo said:
50%   -75%-    91%     can be found at Dollar General stores in my area SW, VA
$1 ^-  $1.50^ -$2.25^  Qt. size
 I use 20 mule team borax. I just put it n a small Ketchup jug and squeezed it back into corners.... Fleas like to be in crack like base boards and cushions....
 
maki2 said:
I would start by getting rid of the carpets if you have any in your RV. Then make sure that ALL the fabrics in your RV can be removed and washed. My mattress is protected with a water proof cover that breathes but also won't allow tiny dust mites to penetrate it.  It too can be removed for washing. The fleas can't get behind the walls in my RV, I sealed all the joints of those wall coverings to prevent moisture from getting behind the walls. That is a common sense way to do a build, you don't want dirt or moisture to get behind your walls as that is what creates mold issues. If dust can't get behind the walls neither can fleas or spiders.

Of course the most important link in the chain after getting the space cleaned is keeping your pet treated so that any fleas that get onto it are killed as well as their eggs.  Eating a flea can and often does give the animal tape worms. So then they get sick from that. Plus of course they are miserable when they do get a flea infestation as are you.

It finally happened to us. Not that I was happy  :dodgy:
Little miss brought some unwanted guests to our vehicle. 
For the vacuuming part I can add that you should sprinkle some of the"old style" flea powder in front of the vac (to suck up) when you first start. Unless you want them to live inside your vac. Lesson learned. The hard way.

I was wondering if steaming works. I heard that it kills both adult bed bugs and their eggs, and since flea eggs are not sensitive to any chemicals including bombs - would it be a solution? Would like to rent one, just in case there are still these creatures - I know that they can hibernate for a year or so and it's not the most comforting thought for me.
 
Food grade Diatomaceus Earth works like a charm. I got mine on Amazon. Its very lightweight, so a 4 lb package is more than enough. Maybe a hardware or pet store will also carry it locally. Totally non toxic. Also good around the campsite.

Sprinkle it around liberally. I use a very fine mesh strainer you would normally use for powdered sugar. Its a very fine powder, so maybe wear a mask as it can irritate your nose/lungs during application. You can use a broom or something to work it into fabrics and rugs. Leave it down for a few days before vacuuming.
 
janeontheroad said:
It finally happened to us. Not that I was happy  :dodgy:
Little miss brought some unwanted guests to our vehicle. 
For the vacuuming part I can add that you should sprinkle some of the"old style" flea powder in front of the vac (to suck up) when you first start. Unless you want them to live inside your vac. Lesson learned. The hard way.

I was wondering if steaming works. I heard that it kills both adult bed bugs and their eggs, and since flea eggs are not sensitive to any chemicals including bombs - would it be a solution? Would like to rent one, just in case there are still these creatures - I know that they can hibernate for a year or so and it's not the most comforting thought for me.
When I was a kid and we had more critters then people living in our house my Mom would put a flea collar into the vac bag. She also had the dogs rabbits and what ever else was around wear one and when the drops came out for the dogs and cats they got them regularly. We still do the drops on the dogs backs and that usually takes care of them. But since I don't put drops on me or hubby I was glad to hear about the Alcohol spray. It seemed to work in the room were we had some guests & dogs stay. It was bad when they left...  anyway maybe vac bags could get the flea collar thing again. 
I would worry more about the moisture in doing a good steam thing, does it dry enough or would that kill the fleas but feed the mold? Just wondering?
 
Fleas live fine in the desert. I give my dogs Bravecto which is a big, tasty pill-never had a dog refuse one. and check into whether or not they need heartworm here they don’t.

Bravecto does not harm them, all my dogs have lived long lives and it keeps fleas off them not matter how bad the area is. Only problem is it’s expensive and has to be taken every 3 or 4 months. Once you get rid of the fleas you don’t want the dog bringing them back.
 
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