DIY Skylight Idea

[One Awesome Inch]

I'd love some opinions on an idea for a DIY skylight I have. 

Dimensions ... 10 x 18 ... needs to be 10 inches narrow to fit a future 2nd solar panel

Materials... acrylic / plexiglass with 1/2 inch vinyl molding for a .5 x 10 x 18 frame

Procedure:

1. Screw plexiglass directly to the vinyl 10 x 18 frame
2. Cut appropriate hole in roof
3. Drill pilot holes thru plexiglass skylight 
4. Apply butyl tape to bottom of frame... filling in gaps on roof as needed 
5. Screw skylight onto roof. The vinyl is fairly bendable so it should be able to conform to the curve of the roof.
6. Apply eternabond tape over screws .5 inch over the edge and around perimetre of skylight and to the vans roof.
7. Apply dicor to all seams to ensure it's waterproof 
8. Fabricate garnish out of polyurethaned wood for the interior 

When it gets cold out I can make a foamboard insert and pop it in when needed for insulation. 

This is just an idea I had so any opinions as to its viability are appreciated.

 

[user 423]

I've seen a few on different older vans, RVs and you can see where they leaked. Your plan sounds like it would stay tight for a long time.

My idea is to mount a 20" or so flat-panel TV to the ceiling and hook it up to a high-def camera mounted on the outside pointed skyward. Maybe set it up so it could be panned this way and that to catch it all.

 

[Gary68]

i would just go to u-pull it and get a sun/moon roof and mod it in,factory rubber seal and tempered glass

 

[user 423]

i would just go to u-pull it and get a sun/moon roof and mod it in,factory rubber seal and tempered glass

Good idea. The stars and ventilation all in one.

 

[tx2sturgis]

My idea is to mount a 20" or so flat-panel TV to the ceiling and hook it up to a high-def camera mounted on the outside pointed skyward. Maybe set it up so it could be panned this way and that to catch it all.

LMAO!

Reminds me of the Roku...it has a bunch of screen savers, and one of them makes it look like your high definition TV is a nice big aquarium, with lots of pretty fish swimming around silently, and another is a fireplace with very realistic flames and glowing embers and even a low, snapping, crackling sound!

I think your plan is great...but can you edit out the high altitude chemical contrails?

Whew...they stink....

 

[tx2sturgis]

I'd love some opinions on an idea for a DIY skylight I have. 

Materials... acrylic / plexiglass

Plexiglass (acrylic) can get brittle with UV exposure and a large hailstone or two would probably destroy it.

You might look at using UV coated Lexan (polycarbonate) although it will certainly cost more. But Lexan is pretty durable.

Does the roof of the van have a smooth surface or is it fluted like most vans?

http://www.hydrosight.com/acrylic-vs-polycarbonate-a-quantitative-and-qualitative-comparison/

 

[One Awesome Inch]

Yeah maybe I will go with Lexan. I read that it discolors quicker than plexiglass but strength is more important.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yeah maybe I will go with Lexan. I read that it discolors quicker than plexiglass but strength is more important.

If you can find it with UV coating it will help. Or buy it grey tint....you probably wont notice it for awhile.

And yeah a bit discolored is better than broken!

 

[One Awesome Inch]

Yes plus if its discolored after 5 years I can always just replace the lexan.

 

[Gideon33w]

You wont be able to see through it in pretty short order unless the exterior is coated with something. Doubly so if you go with Lexan. They both scratch easily and even grit floating around in the air coming into contact with it while driving will scratch it. A million tiny scratches and the thing becomes basically opaque. There's scratch removing products but they degrade the piece. Bigger issue here in the SW though. UV issues already addressed above.

Also, "Plexiglass" is just a trade name for acrylic. It's like Kleenex and tissue. No actual difference between the two besides name.

 

[djkeev]

It always baffles me when people cut holes in perfectly good roofs.

Time causes skylights to leak..... period. Expensive or cheap, they all leak.

 

[karl]

I would expect drilling and screws through acrylic to cause stress cracks quickly, especially at the corners. Expansion/contraction differentials and vibration on a van roof, along with UV degradation are going to be a problem in short order.
A clamping bar around the perimeter, with screws outside the plexi would be a better solution.
If I were making a skylight, I'd want to avoid the time, aggravation and expense of replacing clouded, gooped up materials every year or two and start with laminated glass in the first place.

 

[SoulRaven]

This is just an idea I had so any opinions as to its viability are appreciated.

Please keep us updated as to your progress.  I find this idea very interesting.  

Pat

 

[Gideon33w]

Drilling Acrylic is doable but certainly a pain and might crack no matter what you do.
WD40, a nice sharp metal bit, and drilling through into a wooden table is how we did race car windows.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I would expect drilling and screws through acrylic to cause stress cracks quickly, especially at the corners.

{snip}

If I were making a skylight, I'd want to avoid the time, aggravation and expense of replacing clouded, gooped up materials every year or two and start with laminated glass in the first place.

You can certainly have the glass shop drill the holes in the Lexan when they cut the piece.

And on a vehicle, if using tempered glass on top is the way you want to go, its a gamble, and un-usable around my area because of frequent hail in late spring/early summer. You sure as heck cant drill holes in tempered glass (without shattering it) as far as I know. That would have to be done BEFORE the glass is tempered. ( I could be wrong, I don't go around trying to drill holes in my vehicle windows!)  



And, you can get Lexan in really thick stock. Probably bullet-proof.

Some UV coatings on Lexan (polycarbonate) have a 10 year guarantee on yellowing from UV.

I think its doable.

 

[Scott7022]

Leaks. I was told the same thing when I asked for an escape hatch for my camper build. I thought NAH has to be something that will work. Talked with sailboat peeps and they said even the best will become a problem. Not a question of if but when. Money pushes the when out a ways but...The screen comment made me laugh because that was I ended up with as every window I could find that had an insulating potential would basically be opaque as Gideon mentions. So HD security camera and I get whatever view I like.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I agree that leaks can, do, and will happen, but if we all recommend roof fans, what's the difference? I think installing a Fantastic Fan or MaxxFan in a ribbed or fluted van roof is just ASKING for leaks...but people do it ALL the time.

I certainly did.

And yes, it has leaked! But for me, the benefits far outweigh having to recaulk it once every two years.....just sayin...

Ya'll are a bunch party poopers.....

 

[user 423]

I agree that leaks can, do, and will happen, but if we all recommend roof fans, what's the difference? I think installing a Fantastic Fan or MaxxFan in a ribbed or fluted van roof is just ASKING for leaks...but people do it ALL the time.

Don't know about Fords or Chevys but my Dodge has an unribbed area about 2/3 the way back that is big enough for my 14x14" basic vent. Are the powered fans bigger than that?

 

[highdesertranger]

if I wanted to put in a skylight I wouldn't try to make one I would get a marine one. yes it would need to be resealed every so often like everything else that makes a hole in the skin. my 2 cents. highdesertranger

 

[karl]

You can certainly have the glass shop drill the holes in the Lexan when they cut the piece.

And on a vehicle, if using tempered glass on top is the way you want to go, its a gamble, and un-usable around my area because of frequent hail in late spring/early summer. You sure as heck cant drill holes in tempered glass (without shattering it) as far as I know. That would have to be done BEFORE the glass is tempered. ( I could be wrong, I don't go around trying to drill holes in my vehicle windows!)  

Maybe I wasn't clear- drilling and using screws to compress whatever caulking/vinyl/butyl/? sealants will add concentrated stresses around screws, even with washers.
A compression bar of aluminum will spread the compression over a wider area- reducing spot concentration.

There is no doubt acrylics can be drilled, and it can indeed be purchased in thicknesses that could even be drilled and screwed without (much) fear of breakage over time....if one wanted to spend the money. I might trust 1/2" acrylic, never 1/4".

I wouldn't use tempered glass (though I have) and never meant to infer drilling the laminated glass I suggested- whatever I used would be retained with compression bars around the perimeter - the clamping screws would be away from the glass edge and a filler strip equal to the glass thickness outside of those to act as a fulcrum and avoid rolling the compression bar. In any case 1/8" (or thicker) butyl tape would be under the glass, at the edges and under the compression bar

I've used this method to install insulated and non insulated glass skylights on several porches, cabins and tiny houses with no problems. We use hex head screws with neoprene washers to attach the bars. The screws are normally used to install metal roofing and siding and are available in colors and stainless, various lengths, threads, and sharp or drill points. they seal well and are not difficult to remove if necessary.

My camera grew legs, or I'd post pics.