Class A RV makes no $$ sense

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I have a friend with a Safari. It's a bit longer, not a trek "Puller" but a Serengeti Pusher. They are very well made. I almost pulled the trigger on one myself, but just getting out of an old 1977 GMC motorhome with a lot of problems wasn't something my wife wanted to deal with again.

Those Trek's are odd ducks with the front diesel. I think they were not popular due to the engine noise, but are worth a look. You should be able to get that one for about $15K or so. The Pushers go for about $20-25K.

If you do consider an older Safari pusher, go for a 1995, they have the simpler, cheaper to maintain "Mechanical" engine.

Interesting factoid: Each Safari MH has a unique hand painted mural on the back.
 
skyl4rk said:
Class A's and B's can make sense for couples and families.  

If a 16 mpg van drives 1,000 miles with one person, and an 8 mpg RV drives 1,000 miles with two people, the fuel cost is the same on a per person basis.

I think you meant a Class C. The Class B is a van.

What makes sense is what you want and what you can afford. It is not an "I can live on less than you" competition. A single person can choose to live in a 40 ft (or bigger) and a single (or more) can choose to live in much smaller. It's personal choice.
 
I'd say the more important thing is to just get out there.
What you can afford and what you will be comfortable in is an individual decision.
Weeze all diffrint ! yup yup.
I started out with just a backpack , then on a bicycle ,2 homemade pickup campers , a 29' class A , and now a 23' class C .
As Forest's momma used to say , well almost..........
"Campers are like a box of chocolates , ya never know what you're gonna get"
 
If you look in a box of chocolates, you find a picture of what each one is.  :p
 
GotSmart said:
If you look in a box of chocolates, you find a picture of what each one is.  :p

Y'all must shop in Walmart, GS. :p Any fool knows that boxes of chocolates from real chocolate shops (like The Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, or Rodgers Chocolates) come with no info whatsoever, but that doesn't matter as they're all sinfully delicious!

Shabbat Shalom,


Jesse.
 
LOL

If only traveling homes were like the chocolates from the local upscale candy company here---what they look like on the outside, with different swirls for different flavors, always indicates what you will find inside.  They were/maybe still are made by hand and the quality control was stringent so both the construction and taste was always impeccable. (Yes, I had my favorites that I'd pluck from the box before anyone else had a chance! :D )

Oh, and having someone go to the factory and get a box of just my favorites---priceless! :heart:
 
I am sure that Momma Gump never went and bought custom chocolates from the Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory.They were not started until 1981, and the setting of Forrest Gump was previous.  The scene at the Bus Stop was set as 1981.  (When he meets his son for the first time)  Forrest was supposedly born in the 40's. 

Rogers on the other hand is from 1885, but they sell distinctive sets and you can tell what each one is by looking. 

http://www.realsimple.com/food-recipes/shopping-storing/box-chocolates

[font=Verdana, sans-serif]Life has its share of mysteries, but the contents of a box of drugstore chocolates (think Russell Stover and Godiva) doesn’t have to be one of them. Most follow the same plan, largely for practical reasons. Square and rectangular treats typically have crunchy or chewy centers: “Fillings like caramel and toffee cool on large slabs, then are cut at right angles and dipped in chocolate,” says Tom Ward, the president and CEO of Russell Stover. Circular and oval treats almost always contain soft fillings, such as ganache or cream. Nut candies have easy-to-read bumpy surfaces. And a shiny foil wrapper signals an ooey-gooey liquid center, (The foil protects against leaks.) See, you [/font][font=Verdana, sans-serif]do[/font][font=Verdana, sans-serif] know what you’re going to get. Sorry, Mama Gump![/font]
 
But even a floorplan only tells part of the story with any RV. Things like floor to ceiling height, passage width, bathroom space, over "fit". Being "bigger than the average bear", certain things fine for most just won't work for me.
 
I'll keep beating this nearly dead horse...

Here's a very recent post from a class A rv forum:


Posted: 05/29/15 10:47am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator
MY RV is 11 years old this year.
Only has 58,000 miles on it.

But this year it seems like I spent a fortune maintaining it and upgrading it.

Here is what I did:
Replaced 2 existing AC units $3000
Added a 3rd AC unit $2000
Replace engine batteries $250
Replace house batteries gel cell $1100
Fixed oil leak and changed oil $500
Replaced coolant $100
Fixed drawer slides $250
Replaced slideout Awning $300
Replaced in dash GPS with XM/FM/Ipod Radio - $500
Replaced front tires - $1500 (michelin)

$9500 total that I can recall, I am sure there were other things as well.

I hope next year will be better

JCat & PCat
2004 Mandalay 40D
CAT C7 350 HP
 
Dusty,

Three air conditioning units and GPS navigation equipment are in the frills department, IMO, and it reads as if the oil leak and change, and the coolant replacement were done professionally, judging by the cost.

As with anything, if you're going get fancy, it's going to cost you, period.  KISS is the best way to go.

That said, $863.64 a year (or $71.97 per month) is not an unreasonable amount to fork out for the care and maintenance of one's home.  If we deduct the AC units from this list ($5,000), the monthly cost (over the 11 years) then drops to $34.09.  (Nobody NEEDS AC; open the windows for heaven's sake!)

Shalom,

Jesse.
 
To add to Brian and Jesse's side of the equation, I located on the Spokane craigslist under rv's this current listing:  (Sorry but either my IPad cannot add all the pics or I'm just as stupid as I am fat, probably the latter).   image.jpg
image.jpg

post id: 5060523737 posted: 2 days ago updated: an hour ago

1986 Fleetwood Bounder 33 ft - $8000 (Sandpoint). Mileage: 71505   fuel : gas   transmission : automatic   title status : clean

Good condition
2 outside doors - livingroom & bedroom
New refrigerator & New house battery
Re-upholstered kitchen table seats
Lots of storage space inside & outside
2 bathroom sinks
Twin beds in bedroom
Sleeps 5 - 6 people total
Good generator
Double kitchen sinks with cutting board
4 burner stove & microwave
Electric steps & Roof top AC
Hydraulic levelers
 

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Argh, Charlie Brown here cannot get this right with the iPad. I had a picture of the outside of the unit and now I've got 2 bed pics and have reached the 5 minute edit limit. If someone else with more picture know how (won't be hard to find) can get an image of the Bounder, and remove the double inside, I'd appreciate it.

Moderator - can you set the edit limit past 5 minutes please, to say 10 minutes?

To further discuss class A choices, this unit, if it is in the condition described etc... Would make a fine first family rv or a good mobile base for a couple or person with multiple pets. I just can't do something like this cause I still work in Phoenix, and would be cited for street parking of an rv which I cannot afford.
 
Like everything else in life, it all depends. We traveled in our class A before we went full-time. It's paid for. Having a big enough unit that we wouldn't be in each others pockets meant we could sell the s&b (also paid for) tuck the $$$ in the investment account, and go full-time. If we didn't have a big enough unit to get away from each other from time to time, we would still be part timing and would still be supporting the house. So, for us, the class A is the cheapest way to go.
 
Yep gcal, that's correct. When a couple you need more room than a van, though a very few can pull it off. Even a small class a or c can get "crowded" on multiple inclement weather days. When I had a 22' class c, it was fine with 4 until it rained for a few hours. Then I wished I had a 31...

So, I suppose that while the OP and many others (including me) felt that newer class a's don't pencil out, (if you are on a strict budget), for some like Brian and Jesse they work just fine. The one I found and posted above for 8G's would be something I'd buy if I was retired, no depreciation left in that rig for sure.
 
Brian_and_Jesse said:
Dusty,

Three air conditioning units and GPS navigation equipment are in the frills department, IMO, and it reads as if the oil leak and change, and the coolant replacement were done professionally, judging by the cost.

As with anything, if you're going get fancy, it's going to cost you, period.  KISS is the best way to go.

That said, $863.64 a year (or $71.97 per month) is not an unreasonable amount to fork out for the care and maintenance of one's home.  If we deduct the AC units from this list ($5,000), the monthly cost (over the 11 years) then drops to $34.09.  (Nobody NEEDS AC; open the windows for heaven's sake!)

Shalom,

Jesse.

Yea, not sure how he stuffed 3 air conditioners in that rig, one should suffice. GPS is a handy tool though.

You guys minimalized more than most would on their motor homes. If you don't use the furnace then that's fine, not many would remove it though. You are correct that the average cost per year isn't that high, just for him it's an additional expense over his S&B home, which is hard to swallow sometimes. If it's all you have then no, it's not excessive.

My last house had a $269 a month HOA fee, that was excessive...
 
Off-road - you are selling yourself short. Just found "My Life as a Mohave Desert Hermit" by Desertphile on YouTube. Now, that's economical and minimalist! Go all the way!
 
Off Grid 24/7 said:
Anybody that buys any sort of vehicle before it's been fully depreciated deserves to lose the depreciation and interest costs.

A cheap older MH or van can be just as livable, and 10 years later sold for the same price paid for it or more.

Buy that man a cold one!
 
No new vehicle makes financial sense period. A quality RV of any type is expensive new. Most will cost more than I paid for my house. The registration, insurance, and loan fees make buying new impossible for most of us. The name of this web site really says it all. Used, the Class B's seem to hold their value better. Which means you will pay more for less . They are rare, but short class A's and C's were made. Some cities have height restrictions for parking on the street, others length. If one type of rig was suitable for everybody, they would only make one type. For less hassles from all in society, it is best to have the cleanest looking rig that you can get. Faded peeling paint, duct tape and blue poly tarps, will get the phones ringing at Police dispatch.

I bought my Class A threee years before i retired used for $7.5k. The previous owner put a Detroit Diesel and Allison 6 speed in it with a 3 speed drive shaft transmission. The sales person said he then said to heck with it and bought a diesel pusher. I lived in it for 3 years, and still have it 5 years after that. I figure I got my monies worth. Now looking for something sm,aller.
 
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