Building Hank

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well heck.. rear brakes are still really touchy.. the shuddering is gone… probably the drum turning eased that problem. But the brakes are still really Really REALLY touchy. Driving on eggshells is a bunch of no fun. HighdesertRanger.. how much you want for that BPV? Msg me-if you are interested, we can work out details.
 
Also for diagnostic purposes- it does not lock up in reverse...
It drives fine first thing- cold.
It takes about 5-7 miles, then I can feel a Very faint shudder that means it will then be trying to lock up.
Up hill seems to lock up less vigorously.
 
Gypsy Dog, you might be better off starting a separate thread over in the Mechanical Issues sub-forum.  There are several people here, including some ex professional mechanics, who love to jump in and help solve these problems, but they may not be following everyone's build threads and thus are not seeing these posts about your brake issues.

Maybe one of the moderators could move all the posts on this over to a new thread for you.

Regards
John
 
Trying to keep the progress going.
Swabbed down the interior hard surfaces (again) this time it did some good!
Cleaning.jpg

Modified the kitchen for in-motion safety.
KitchenSafety.jpg

And UGH- began the removal of the rear part of the upper cabinetry.  They sandwiched it all between the outer fiberglass shell-top and the metal van frame.  So I pretty much have to grunt it out to be able to access the upper rear window at all.  Which I want to do, because I suspect a mild water leak, or condensation problem.  Some minor damage to the thin ply in the compartment, and a little mildew buildup in one corner.  And seeings how I am not 7 years old size anymore (to get in to remove the light fixture- I had to turn my head sideways to fit.).. It must go.  Which will also let me change out the lock cylinder, and use the window to add a draw fan.  I just really dread cutting through upholstered 30 yr old header, fiberglass, moldy plywood and moldy vinyl liner.  eww.
HeaderRemovalUgh.jpg

Still find it weird that the brake problem seemed solved for about a day.. then reoccured.
 

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arrgghhhh I want a van! tent camping is ok, but this van would make morning and evening prep so much easier!
 
Well, piffle.  
Looks like I will have to resort to taking him in to the shop with high recommendations.  3 different people, unknown to each other, all have recommended this shop.  They also work on RVs (Class C and Class A) and one of the recommendations comes from a high-end Class A owner that is quite pleased with the work.  
May need to have them install an aftermarket 'adjustable' BPV to solve the problem.
 
Thanks HighDesertRanger- you've been awesome and amazingly helpful!

You all have.
I really appreciate :)
All the advice and encouragement has been wonderful. So glad I found this forum!
 
Not much happened this week.
We had guests that required a lot of supervision and entertainment..  sigh

Did get my cooler (vintage red metal coleman) prepped and painted.
VintageCoolerKewler.jpg

I plan to add insulation to the interior and have a small tote to hold block ice- to reduce water soaking of foodstuffs.
 

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Added styro to the inside of the cooler- Looks all 'Jetsons' in there now.. lol

Also finished my faucet/water setup. Still need to build the foot pump pedal, but the mechanism works great. Watched the water flow from the water jug to faucet to sink and into the catch jug. Woo

Got a small roll of Reflectix too while I was at it. And I need to add some sort of reinforcement/hand-trap to the bottom of my tipout windows. Like a small bar across or board attached to the frame, keep questing fingers from reaching in. I live in a neighborhood where - if it isn't nailed down, that must mean it is free for the taking.. sigh
That is another reason I don't do a lot of the mechanical work on the van myself. The lack of garage/security.

Got a great idea for cutting out the overhead too- an oscillating saw. Was thinking I was going to have to use the grinder.. ugh-mess-ugly But an oscillator would be much less friction and debris. And it is a versatile tool. hmm..

Also have an appointment with a brake shop on Monday. (3 different independent recommendations from people I know) Will keep y'all posted.
 
Well folks- it pays to have the right tool.
I was lamenting the arduous task of cutting out the rear overhead compartment - and someone recommended an oscillating tool.  (typical $50 for a good one)  So I thought about it and decided, if I can find one for a reasonable price, it would be worth it.  
Went to my local farm store - usually have good selection and good prices.
They had a minor name-brand one for $50.. then I notice that these things are on clearance..  $12.50   -- hmm, let me think. MINE! :D

This tool made what I thought was doing to be several days cumulative work - into a couple hours.  Thinking this tool will be part of my regular van kit. :cool:  Versatile.

Now I can get at the porthole window to re-key it and do some other repair/renovations - yay.

Scissors and the new OTool and the process begins
Made quick work of the fiberglass
Cutting4Real.jpg
And removing the upholstery covered fluff-board..
UpholsteryGone.jpg

This is the ugly that I was cutting through.. like rings on a damned tree... sigh
AllLayersGone.jpg

Now that it is gone, it really opens up the space and lets in so much more light...
MoreLightPano.jpg

My next project-  Some cabinet ply and cutting new 'shelves' for the small area I left.  Then figuring out how to edge it and/or rail it so things don't fall off and I don't lacerate myself in the dark...  Maybe either wood edge trim or cutting a slit in some heavy duty garden hose and slipping that on.. bumper/edger in one..?
 

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I'm using foam pipe wrap on some of the 'head banger' edges in my van. It's already slit for me and I'll cover it with the same vinyl I'm using elsewhere in the van so that it matches.

I've also used pool noodles in a couple of areas where I wanted a larger diameter foam.

Garden hose sounds like it might also work.

You might need to use a combination of things because of the different widths of what you're covering.

Great job!!
 
Quick Rant:

Who in their right mind thinks it is ok to low-bid and use Plastic Strap (and by strap I mean that 3/8" parcel strap stuff) in place of the metal springs for the support of a van Bench Seat????!!!??

Busted a couple the other day, now I need to re-web the seat.  I am thinking take all the stupid strap out and replace with 550 paracord.  Would certainly be stronger..  sigh

< /rant>


@AT I already have a piece of pool noodle to pad the rear ladder so I can strap my bike up there without gouging the paint. hmm.. maybe smaller pipe wrap could work for part of the rear section.. thanks- I will think on it.
 
GypsyDogs said:
Quick Rant:

Who in their right mind thinks it is ok to low-bid and use Plastic Strap (and by strap I mean that 3/8" parcel strap stuff) in place of the metal springs for the support of a van Bench Seat????!!!??

Busted a couple the other day, now I need to re-web the seat.  I am thinking take all the stupid strap out and replace with 550 paracord.  Would certainly be stronger..  sigh

< /rant>

Paracord 550 is notorious for stretching.  Personally, I wouldn't be using it for webbing the seat.

Here's webbing that you can use but I'm not sure how you would attach it to the seat.
http://diygearsupply.com/product/1-polyester-webbing/

This is the stuff that my hammock suspension is made of. Knots degrade the strength of it so we (as in those that hang from it) splice it but for what you're using, tying knots would work fine.

http://diygearsupply.com/product/amsteel-blue/

The other choice would be regular lawn chair webbing which you can buy in repair packs at W/M IIRC.
 
Well, the hammock stuff is a bit pricey.. and very thin.  Wouldn't want it cutting through my bed padding.

Researching cording, I can probably get away with poly-braid.  The weight should be distributed fairly well, and I can add extra to the middle section (where m'butt will be..) to add strength.  Between myself and the dogs, the whole load on the bed won't be topping 200 lbs.  I also plan to 'spiderweb' the middle section that will bear the brunt of the weight.

Thanks for the heads up on the PCord.  That woulda suk'd...

PS:  Hank is in the Proper Brake Shop now.. more as it develops.
 
...........sigh
LS swears they checked all the mechanical aspects of the brakes, and it has to be the BPValve.  They also said, after removing the rear drums and having hardware fall off, they replaced the rear brake hardware (springs/etc).

Got Hank back from the Pro-Brake shop.
They replaced the burnt/crumbling shoes, the (original rusty/dirty) brake hardware/springs, cleaned and lubed all the bits, and dumped and refilled the burnt brake fluid.  All better now.

Went to LS, and had a chat with the management.  Mentioned that I have spent many many hours and dollars at their business. (I've been there often enough that, when I walked up to the counter, the receptionist greeted me by name..)  Mentioned that, had they just done that stuff ^, the brakes would have worked and I would have cheerfully spent my money with them.  Also mentioned that they thought it was ok to try to fix the Tires-Too-Big problem by sledghammering on my van so they didn't rub on the wheel wells as much, and then - on my next visit, they swapped the tires for a smaller correct size.  You should have seen the receptionist's face when manager-guy basically told me.  "Did you save the old parts they took off? No? Well, it looks to me like the only thing we are guilty of is not trying to sell you parts you didn't need.  Pro-Brake really overcharged you for this work.  Too bad, little girl, piss off."  I was shocked  The receptionist was likewise shocked.  She took a copy of my paperwork from Pro-Brake and told me she would take it up with Her Boss.   She assured me this is not over yet.  She was as stunned by this manager's handling of the situation as I was.
 
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