800W Solar Powered Sprinter Conversion. (pics)

[wrcsixeight]

The Danfoss compressor's electronic controller has many male spade terminals on it. &nbsp;The resistor just hooks inline with the connector for the thermostat. <br>

<br>

<br>Takes about 2 seconds to remove or return when The controller is exposed. &nbsp;I can reach mine from the adjacent cabinet, without pulling the fridge from its insulated cabinet. &nbsp;I do turn it off and disconnect the power lead before adding or removing the resistor, but have not done so since 1 week after the fridge arrived fedex.<br><br>I think about wiring up an easily accessible potentiometer to the circuit for when I do stuff the fridge with warm items and want them cold quicker. &nbsp;I've installed an 40mm 6.2 cfm internal fridge muffin fan. &nbsp; I think more than ~2800 rpm would be wasted as the cold plate is not big enough. &nbsp;The danfoss BD35f compressor can power a fridge 150% larger than mine if it were cranked upto 3500 rpm and mated to a bigger evaporator. &nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>When I have a solar surplus I will crank up the fridge from 2(of 7) to 3.5. &nbsp;Sometimes I forget to turn it back down at night fall and find I'm adding slushy milk into my morning coffee.<br><br>When I do remember to turn at back to normal overnight, the duty cycle is then considerably less.<br>-------------<br><br>I have a Negative Buss bar right next to my fuse block. &nbsp;The 2 wire circuits either split above or below. &nbsp;The &nbsp;hots go to the fuse block, the grounds to the buss bar. &nbsp;It is really hard to make wiring look organized. A fuse block and buss bar and the proper length wiring to meet them help greatly.<br><br>I have a ~30x26 vertical wall behind my driver's seat that forms the edge of my cabinet. &nbsp;All my wiring runs to here for distribution. &nbsp;Helps that my house batteries are just below the floor, accessible through a hatch.&nbsp;<br><br>Some fuseblocks incorporate a negative buss bar.<br><br>Lots of neat products out there for safe low voltage dc electrical distribution.

 

[ickkii]

Thanks for the pics, you had me at slushy milk. <br><br>When I get a 12v refrigerator you're the first guy I'll be hitting up if I need more help. <br><br>For the buss bars I was going to use one for the positive line in addition to negative, for organization purposes. I couldn't tell how large the fuse blocks are so that's what had me wondering, but now that I've drawn it out I can see it won't matter because a only a few lines are going to use the fuse block.<br><br>In other news, I've found an ac for the 16th time. After a good 3-4 hours I've found an electrical compressor based unit that is much simpler than what is listed in OP. That website I found last night sells engine driven compressors so it was weirding me out too much to invest hope in their low amp 12v products. <br><br>I believe it was you that mentioned boat supply, in the past I've looked away from boat ac's because 99% of the time they'd sound too good to be true powerwise, and then I'd find a seawater pump in the brochure to confirm it. Well not this one lol. <br><br>

<br>At about 4 degrees or more above the set temperature the air conditioner uses 3 compressors and a high blower setting to cool your cabin<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/img/50amps.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>At about 2 degrees above the set temperature, the air conditioner uses 2 compressors and a medium blower setting to cool your cabin<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/img/35amps.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>At about 1 degree above the set temperature, the air conditioner uses 1 compressor and a low blower setting to cool your cabin until it reaches the set temperature then it shuts the last compressor off, the water circulation pump off and leaves the blower on the low setting to keep the air flowing in the cabin.(about 3 amps of current draw)<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/img/18amps.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br><br>For long night stays you can set the unit to low and it will lock out all compressors except one and draw an average of 18 amps. The unit will still turn the last compressor off on this setting if it reaches the desired set temperature.<br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/img/Night_Mode.jpg" class="bbc_img"><br>

<br><br>This is the more expensive unit, they sell another that works the same way except with two compressors instead of three. $2k for 2 compressor unit, $3k for 3 compressor unit. Similar to your refrigerator I will be going with the smaller unit since it can run longer on a low power setting, no rush to get cold.<br><br>http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/brochure.php<br><br>This is one of the only websites I've come across with a "how it works" section and is straightforward with pricing and specifications. I can't help but want to stop my search here because of this kind of transparency. There's galleries too, manuals, and I don't have to wait 3 weeks for a reply that never comes because everything is listed on the website. <br><br>Kind of expensive, but I think this could be eligible for the bee seal of approval lol. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><br><br>

 

[wrcsixeight]

I use the large terminals on my battery switch as Buss Studs. &nbsp;It has 3 of them, one for Battery 1, one for Battery 2, and one for the ignition. &nbsp;The battery 2 stud is my house batteries, and this stud feeds my fuse block and inverter. &nbsp;Also my solar charge controller is hooked to the battery 2 stud, so even if i have the switch set to OFF, the house batteries still see solar current..<br><br>Connected directly to the ignition stud is a cable going directly to the original positive battery terminal, which is not connected to the battery. &nbsp;Also my additional direct alternator feed goes to this stud, so whatever I have my switch set to is where the starter amps flow from and where the alternator amps go to. &nbsp; All interior ' house' circuits are rerouted to the house battery fuse block.<br><br>This is the best aspect of a manual switch. &nbsp;Deciding where to send the amps, or take them from. &nbsp;Solenoids/relays and diode isolators do not really give this option without moving wires, or wiring in additional switches.<br><br>Some people use these battery switches to break a single large bank into two smaller banks. &nbsp;Discharge one while charging the other. &nbsp;This way if the solar is not adequate to fully charge the whole bank, at least you can get half the bank fully charged, which the batteries need weekly if they hope to have a good lifespan.<br><br>I'm in Coastal San Diego, so the air conditioning aspects of this thread are not getting my full attention, so I stand on the sidelines there and see what you can come up with. &nbsp;I won't live here forever, and most of my Family lives in Florida so I am interested. &nbsp;I can't handle Florida's heat April though November. &nbsp;I turn into a light beer swilling redneck, and start talking funny about shooting alligators when there longer than 3 weeks. &nbsp;

 

[vokus]

<p>ickkii,</p><p>How are you going to dump the heat you just sucked out of your van using the www.cruisencomfortusa.com MES 4000?</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>When its being used in a boat application, the heat goes straight in to the ocean or lake via a pump that draws 5 amps all by it self. (18+5 at low) (this pump circulates cold water thru the unit to remove heat...)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you try to use this in a van application you will have to build your own cooling system for the hot side, and that includes a pump, radiator, and fans.<br><br>I was just wondering how your going to go about this...<br><br>[video]<br><br><br>You can mount any car radiator with a 12v fan under your van in a suiting location and that might work for you...<br><br></p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-civic-b...cessories&amp;hash=item19d21aff24&amp;vxp=mtr</p><p><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i.ebayimg.com/t/GSP-civic-b1...==/$(KGrHqF,!pME--j2VWqnBP3UJvFcEg~~60_12.JPG" class="bbc_img"></p>

 

[Buster]

&nbsp;I do not mean to sound negative when I make this comment, but I just have to. Here goes. <br>I saw this thread and the preparation that has gone into it. It's really great work. Lots of time spent on planning and research. VERY GOOD JOB. I really like all the diagrams and stuff. Well Done!<br>Here's where you lose me entirely. "There is no actual build!" Its a dream from what I can see, which is fantastic. I read thru a couple of pages and didn't see any actual build. It's all research! In theory it will all work. Even in real life.<br>Could you please provide "real life" pics of what you are doing?<br><br>I also feel this post goes against almost everything this site stands for. <br><br>Here's why.<br><br>Affordability is #1. tons of people don't have the time money and resources. This has already taken up much of your spare time and all of your thoughts, fine.<br>The build will be very time consuming and expensive. <br><br>You will never need all that power unless you are running a mobile grow op. lol.<br>150W panel a small generator and 4-6 golf cart batteries should be all one needs to watch TV,shower,cook,laptop,charge devices,lights, ect,ect... To live everyday life you don't need all this expensive trendy stuff that appeals to rich people working and living in houses. This whole plan shows me that you miss the bigger picture. Living in a vehicle isn't cute,nor is it appealing to the general public. That means you. This so called build is an idea that is to impress people, great. That's where it ends. There is no minimalism in this build. All I see is consumerism and waste. Trying to impress the JONES'. I applaud your planning and effort. But I think you need to tone it back a bit. Actually try living in a vehicle for a month, then come back with a new plan. I assure you it will be waaaay less involved than you think. It's pretty simple and inexpensive. And you can still have nice looking comfortable rig that will impress without looking like a total douche... Simplicity is the key, and it can still look good too, and work just as well without all the overkill crap that you don't need.<br>I don't think this site is for paranoid doomsday preppers with lots of money. IMHO. This is not an outlet to show off your trendy stuff that costs way too much money. I have noticed more and more of this on here. This is a site to show practical ideas for the simple person on a low to median income.<br>How to live simply and CHEAPLY. Cheap doesn't mean SCUZZY!<br>Bottom line is, your ideas will work, but you need to scale back everthing in your life first. Then you'll see what I'm talking about. Start with your debts and possesions, then your bills. Eliminate as much useless crap as you can.&nbsp;Start living more frugally and you'll see that your dream is OVERKILL to be comfortable. Spend that xtra money on travel ect. Think totally outside the box. What we do as vandwellers&nbsp;is the opposite of what general society does. You must influence yourself and not let others influence you, because they have a house with a foundation.<br>I did not mean to sound negative or try to kill your dream. Dreams are great to have, that's why they are dreams. It's really rewarding when a dream comes tru once in a while. <br>I applaud your effort and good luck to you.

 

[ccbreder]

yup

 

[wrcsixeight]

I know where the OP is coming from. &nbsp;It is fun to design an ultimate system to cover every eventuality. &nbsp;Putting the plan into reality, as reality changes is another story.<br><br>I slowly built my van and learned what would be better for my lifestyle over the years of living in/from it, and it has been gutted at least 2 times to be rebuilt in my fashion.<br><br>I learned along the way. &nbsp;The OP is doing his homework before, so He can do it once, the right way, for him.<br><br>Lots of good info in this thread, let's not discourage the OP.&nbsp;<br><br><br>

 

[ickkii]

Buster, If your point is being cheaper, why buy a van at all? Why not just get a bike and a sleeping bag?<br><br>Here's my post in "what brings you to this lifestyle?"<br><br>

<span id="post_message_1276990695">I'm going to try to avoid a life story here, and say that 10 years ago I entered foster care at 13 and it changed my perspective on living. I've lived in a few dozen homes, and ran away from most of them. When I was 14 I slept in a dried retention pond pipe while I was on runaway, this was the first time I ever slept outside. It sucked. I was exposed to living in all types of environments, from vehicles, abandoned houses, tents, bushes, sheds, you name it - I've slept in it for at least a week.<br><br>That's when I realized houses are arbitrary. I was never homeless without a house, I had a home - planet earth. I decided what matters is that you have a comfortable place to sleep at night, a place to shower, &nbsp;a pot to piss on, and food in your stomach. I didn't see a need to pay 700 dollars a month in my area to rent a kitchen and a bathroom. Food can be bought or made almost anywhere, and I'm no stranger to public restrooms. Showers could be done at gyms, and with the money I saved I could easily convert a van into a comfortable place to sleep.&nbsp;<br><br>I'm a free market capitalist when it comes down to it, and for what houses cost in terms of money and time, I knew I could stretch my money further with alternatives. So I decided to live an alternative lifestyle, there's no reason for me to waste my time and money conspicuously consuming resources I don't need. The Joneses can go right ahead. I'm frugal.<br><br>So I got the idea for a solar powered van, and decided to live on earth, and sleep in a van.<br><br>Traveling isn't essential for me like it is for some of you, I'd still like to see more the world regardless. After sitting in a greyhound from oakland to tampa for a week - when I got back home and saw sparkling water, blue skys with white puffy clouds, and green palm trees, everything negative I felt disappeared. I felt like I was where I belonged.</span>

<br><br>I have slept in a van in the heat of summer for several weeks, I watched sweat drip from my hair as I hydrated myself with hot water. It was so bad I decided to sleep outside. Forced homeless is nothing new to me, planned homelessness is. So I'm planning.<br><br>I don't see how this is conspicuously consuming at all, quite the opposite. I'm not buying products solely based on their price or for the sake of keeping up with anyone. I'm exchanging currency for technology that benefits my own personal uses, that's the whole point behind trade and exchange. Yes, I'm physically capable of surviving without these material goods, but surviving and living are two different things. I want more than just survival, and I have reasons for wanting more from past experiences. <br>It's not just me in that van, it's someone I care about and also want to be comfortable. I don't want to put my loved ones in a state of survival. That means I have to have a means of being self-sufficient, and as a software developer it requires reliable internet access and a means of powering a computer. <br id="tinymce" class="mceContentBody "><br>I don't have to live without AC for any moral or economic reasoning at all, the only limits are what I'm technologically &amp; physically capable of accomplishing - and if that will improve satisfaction from the experience. It's within my grasp, I can make it happen in an affordable manner, so why not? Because I do with less? I can always do that. Just because you can be more frugal doesn't always make it practical, in the same sense that just because I can do more doesn't make it practical either. I've set these standards based on personal demands. Yours look different.<br><br>If it bothers you I don't have photographs then I'm sorry I'm not moving quick enough. I'm still saving and thinking this through.

 

[ickkii]

<p>ickkii,</p><p>How are you going to dump the heat you just sucked out of your van using the www.cruisencomfortusa.com MES 4000?</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>When its being used in a boat application, the heat goes straight in to the ocean or lake via a pump that draws 5 amps all by it self. (18+5 at low) (this pump circulates cold water thru the unit to remove heat...)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you try to use this in a van application you will have to build your own cooling system for the hot side, and that includes a pump, radiator, and fans.<br><br>I was just wondering how your going to go about this...<br><br>[video]<br><br><br>You can mount any car radiator with a 12v fan under your van in a suiting location and that might work for you...<br><br></p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-civic-b...cessories&amp;hash=item19d21aff24&amp;vxp=mtr</p><p><img rel="lightbox" src="http://i.ebayimg.com/t/GSP-civic-b1...==/$(KGrHqF,!pME--j2VWqnBP3UJvFcEg~~60_12.JPG" class="bbc_img"></p>

<br><br>A heatsink would work if it's necessary. I don't think it is based off this photo.<br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/im...?TB_iframe=false&amp;height=600&amp;width=800" class="bbc_img"><br><br>It's sitting on carpet lol. There's only one duct on this unit, so I would assume it has some kind of built in heat sink.<br><br>I'll keep what you posted in mind. The video talks about a different form of ac unit, but still looks like a useful resource, thanks for sharing I'm going to check this channel out.

 

[ickkii]

updated OP.<br><br>EDIT: nvm<br><br>

 

[vokus]

<p>ickkii, </p><p>That AC will not work for you unless you come up with a custom solution for cooling the hot side. <br><br></p><p>Pleas read the manual for that product for more info, and please also read/watch any air conditioner 101 info so you understand how a heat pump ( an air conditioner works ).</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

[ickkii]

looks like it's back to the drawing board again, didn't see water pumps the first few looks around. I'll figure something out I just need a break because every ac I find seems to have something wrong with it at a second glance. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><br><br>taking down the images until I can put something accurate there.

 

[ickkii]

alright I took a ~3 week break from research and decided to get back to work on the project now that I've had a refresher.<br><br>Ironically the first 12v dc air conditioner I found going into this will most likely be what's going to be used. I avoided it originally due to no pricing or distributors being listed.<br><br>http://www.dcairco.com/index.php/products/trucks/dc-8500<br><br>I found a distributor in pompano beach that sells them for $2900. This is obviously a steep cost, but after making mistake after mistake trying to find something better for cheaper I've realized there aren't many viable shortcuts.<br><br>TEC units are completely off the table due to using 3x as much power per btu as compressor based air conditioners.<br>Evaporative Coolers wont work due to high humidity.<br>Anything running on AC will have inverter loss and is generally designed for house pressure conditions which can cause refrigerant problems.<br><br>So that really only leaves building an ac from scratch using an electric vehicle compressors that arent usually designed for 12v and someone with a grip what they're doing. I'm no HVAC professional so it seems more sensible to go with the prebuilt unit that fits my needs.<br><br>It may seem as though the power usage on the dc airco 8500 is high, but after talking to someone who assembles them for a living, he has confirmed thats at peak performance and at 50% can run as low as 240w.<br><br><br>

 

[rokguy]

<EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">There's always something like Viesa of Canada truck coolers and AC. Alot of them fitted here in Aus. Geoff</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><BR><A href="http://viesa.ca/images/Pdf/intelligent_brochure.pdf" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://viesa.ca/images/Pdf/intelligent_brochure.pdf</A>

 

[ickkii]

That looks like a good model, dc airco also has a more efficient rooftop model than the 8500, the only problem is lack of roof space due to the fan vent and solar array. Split ac units are made for trucks that have similar issue. I'll probably mount the condensor to the back door and pray I dont get rear ended. I'm really good about my breaking, I always slow into a stop rather than breaking shortly - so as long as my girlfriend isn't the one driving there should be no issue <img src="/images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">

 

[Zil]

Nice unit. The outside unit can be mounted high to avoid fender benders, or even some place else rather than back. It is a little pricey for me, but looks good. As fuses, be sure to use one as near to battery as possible to protect your wiring from shorts when the power comes from the battery. I don't like DC breakers above 20 amps or so.<br>I have really liked this thread, keep it up.

 

[ickkii]

okay now that everythings alright again with the image here it is. <br><br><img rel="lightbox" src="" class="bbc_img">

 

[rokguy]

<EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Hi Ickkii,</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Was just looking at your good layout, I know you have set out your roof a certain way for good reason but the only thing I wouldn't do is install the vent directly over your bed area, as this was drummed into me when building a RV's, boats etc, they alway eventually will leak and no one wants to sleep in a soggy bed.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Yeh I know there is plenty done like that but I would slightly offset it over&nbsp;the floor area myself.</SPAN></STRONG></EM><BR><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Geoff</SPAN></STRONG></EM>

 

[ickkii]

thanks for the tip, I was wondering about that but figured a liner or something would be an easy fix. When I was looking into the heatsink/radiator idea vokus suggested I stumbled across some cheap 12v 80w radiator fans that look like they save quite a bit of space. <br><br>http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-UNIVERS...-BAY-COOLING-FAN-MOUNTING-BLACK-/180761833870<br><br id="tinymce" class="mceContentBody ">So with those in mind the fantastic vent doesnt need to be over the sleeping area, it actually would work out better to have it more towards the front/middle where I'll sit down to work. I'd like to put the other fans on some form of hinge near the back of the van for use when the ac isnt needed.

 

[wrcsixeight]

A fantastik Fan requires a 14 inch square hole.<br><br>How much room are you going to save by installing a 12 inch radiator fan? &nbsp;What about rain?<br><br>Did you plan on adding a speed control, or do you think 1750 CFM, replacing the air in the vehicle every 30 seconds is a normal air flow rate. &nbsp;1750 CFM will suck long hair into the blades from 2 feet away<br><br>And 12.7 amps! &nbsp;That thing must be 80 decibels.&nbsp;<br><br>I'm all about powerful fans, and airflow, but thinking you can engineer a fan better than a fantastic fan and save money, is foolhearty.